Routes as trad in Mt Hope

The prominent undercling/slab under the main archway beneath Ledge of Sighs. Starts at the right hand end for a rising traverse on smooth rock.

At the left hand end of the cliff is a crack that meets Ledge of Sighs exit gully. Up the crack to the gully, 1 m right, then up the corner

The obvious traverse across the centre of the cliff. Start at the very right hand side of the crag. Walk up the ramp to start the hand traverse.

Start on the ground directly below the right hand (west) end of Ledge of Sighs. Directly up to join Ledge of Sighs and either follow this left or pyke out and exit to the right.

Up the direct start and traverse half-way across 'Ledge of Sighs' to the obvious ramp rising up to the left. Up this to the corner and slab to the top. Originally a scary trad lead, now a mixed route - take small cams and wires.

Up the hill and south of the picnic ground car park you will see a prominent boulder with a V-shaped feature. Climb into the base of the V and up the left leaning corner crack. Follow the crack to traverse left until you can climb up onto the block. Don't put gear behind or sling the large, top flake leading onto the block.

The obvious crack line through the longest low wall to the west of the road / car park.

Start up the detached flake 5 m right of Rosie's Big Day Out. Clip the first bolt from the top of the flake then straight up on flakes and crimpers past another three bolts until small gear is found (RP in crack on left) with better gear (small cams/nuts) under hanging block/flake. Belay is the same as for Grasping at Immortality (3 carrot bolts).

The fixed hangers and bolts on this route have been replaced (July 2021) with 10mm by 100 mm stainless steel glue-in bolts. Take 4 bolt plates plus small gear for the top.

Walk into Mon Chimney and head up the back wall and then out to the chains on top of Winterdreams

The hand to fist crack. Best to tape up.

The middle of the three cracks here. The narrow crack on strenuous finger locks through the steep section then easing above.

From the top of Riding Through The Snow, move across the gully to a dead tree at the bottom of a flake on a ledge. Go directly up the slab from the tree to a large ledge at the top of Suicide Gully, then left to a shallow groove and flake. Up this and on up the easy slab to the summit ledge with a large flake and belay.

The flaring, overhung off-width to the right of "Riding through the snow". The grade needs confirming.

The obvious dog-leg crack in the right hand side of the Side Outcrop

Start at the toe of the slab 5 m right of Sleigh Ride. Straight up to the small crack - takes a #2 & #3 RP - then up through bolts to top off Persia 79. Need #3 and #1.5 Cams for belay at top.

The thin seam/crack in the wall across the gully and directly behind Persia 79. Thin and tricky to get good gear.

Flake and fading crack on the arete left of Savage Amusement. Poor pro.

Short thin crack on a separate block closer to the fence. Faces West.

Left most block. Left side of the face.

Right side of the same face.

Next block to the right. Up the right side of the left arete.

Gymnastic start up the middle of the block.

Right arete starting just in the gully.

Easy looking flake crack on the left wall of the gully. No bridging.

Jam crack 1m right of Aces High.

Vegetated diagonal crack on the main face.

Follow the carrot bolts up the middle of the wall. Single bolt anchor backed up with trad.

Right arete

Start 1m right of Slave To The Grind. Slab climbing diagonally up right.