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Routes as sport in Lac Gervais

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Showing all 30 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Yoga
5.10b Samsara
1 5.8 25m
2 5.10b 25m

Start up the bolted crack to the left of Om, later transitioning onto slab.

  1. 5.8, 25m, 10 bolts

  2. 5.10b, 25m, 9 bolts

FA: Simon Vigneault & Patrick Prénovost, 21 Sep 2021

Sport 50m, 2, 10
Above Multipitch Area
5.10a Unknown Climb 1

Climb up the obvious finger crack. Also climbs on gear only. Bring small gear.

Sport 15m, 4
Multipitch Area (Left side)
{UIAA} YDS:5.5 La pépinière à Pépère

Bottom slab on the left, first bolt line on the left side. Anchors at the ledge

Sport 17m, 8
5.8 Le jardinier jaseux

The bolt line just to the left of "Pur Plaisir".

Starts behind a rock, a bit of edge, a few pure friction moves, then easier climbing.

FA: Laurent Cloutier & Suzanne Chamberland, 2010

Sport 20m
5.7 Pur plaisir

Left of the obvious diagonal crack/ramp ("Le Manoir des Mouches Noires") is a bolted Y-shaped crack (right branch shorter than left). Start below this crack.

  1. 5.5 20m. Climb the crack and slab above to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

  2. 5.7+ 25m. Step left along the ledge. then climb up and right following the bolt line and crack.

  3. Left at 5.8 - the line is mostly hidden left of the dihedral; or right at 5.9, first couple bolts are visible -- but there are more.

At P3, even further left: there are bolts up a thinish/vanishing crack then through a roof above. Somewhat run-out to reach this line of bolts after the first two bolts of the "Left:" variation.

Sport 75m, 3
5.9 Oust l'ours

A line of bolts up the bottom slab between Pur plaisir and Le Manoir des mouches noires.

Set: Laurent & Suzanne, 2012

Sport 17m, 6
5.9 Comtesse Délicatesse

The name says it all

Set: Laurent et Suzanne, 2012

Sport 19m, 9
5.5 Le Manoir des mouches noires

Trad or sport, 25m The obvious left-ascending bolted crack/ramp that starts left of the lower slab.

FA:

Sport 25m, 9
5.9 Petit Poo et Betty Boop
1 5.6 18m
2 5.9 32m
3 5.9 21m
  1. 5.6. Start at the base of the obvious left-angling crack/ramp, but climb straight up to the thin left-leaning crack. Follow this crack up between some small trees to a belay.

  2. 5.9+. Climb thin slab to a seam, follow the seam for a while, then jog right on better holds, then back left again to a finger crack in a corner to an anchor.

  3. There appear to be two bolted lines above the 2nd anchor -- both start right of the anchor, one drifts leftward, the other drifts more rightward. Left one goes at about 5.9 to a semi-hanging belay. The right goes at about 5.8

Set: Laurent & Suzanne, 2011

Sport 71m, 3, 25
5.9 Met du pep dans ta grimpette
1 5.6
2 5.9
3 5.7

A wider crack a couple meters right of "Petit Poo et Betty Boop".

P1 5.6 20m Climb slab and crack to a small ledge. P2 5.9 25m Climb a bolted crack through interesting climbing to a semi-hanging belay. P3 5.7 17m Climb up and right.

Set: Laurent & Suzanne, 2014

Sport 62m, 3
5.10 Wall (Center)
5.9 Vas-y vieillerie

FA: Laurent Cloutier & l'illustre inconnu, 2014

Sport 21m, 7
5.8 La Frousse de l'Ours

There's an intermediate anchor at about 29m for people with a 60m rope -- don't stop there, go to the final anchor for full value.

FA: Laurent Cloutier & Suzanne Chamberland, 2009

Sport 35m, 9
5.10- Gervèze

FA: Patrick Prénovos & Marc-André Nantel, 2013

Sport 15m, 6
5.10a Cowgirl in the sand

FA: Patrick Prénovost, Francis DelRio, Julie Bazinet & Marie Ève Généreux, 2013

Sport 37m, 11
5.9 Appaloosa

FA: Marie Ève Généreux, Julie Bazinet & ätrick Prénovost, 2013

Sport 15m, 7
5.10b Cheyenne

Bolt line immediately left to the distinctive finger crack of 'Solstice'. Slab climbing on thin holds then straight up to the leaning right facing corner. Easier but trickier here then over the bulge to the anchors.

Sport 15m, 6
Right Side
5.10b Equinoxe

Harder version of 'Solstice', starts immediately right to the obvious finger crack. Same anchor as 'Solstice'.

Sport 15m, 6
5.11a Slabshot

FA: Patrick Prénovost & Pascal Blanchette, 2014

Sport 35m, 12
5.9 La gymnastique de la gélinotes

Climb a slab up to a small ledge and then traverse to the left to a right-facing small dihedral feature/crack and move up until you reach the anchors. Really enjoyable route at the grade. There are alternative bolted anchors at exactly 35 meters. If you go up to the finish anchor or don't have a 70 meter rope, you can lower to an anchor at the beginning of the small dihedral to do 2 rappels.

FA: Laurent Cloutier, 2008

Sport 38m
5.9 Utopissima

FA: L'ouvreur & l'inconnu

Sport
5.9 Joyau de Jade

FA: Laurent Cloutier, 2008

Sport 23m, 9
5.7 Au Gré de la Galéjade

Beautiful long climb with a nice variety of moves at the grade. Start at the flake (at about the height of the first bolt). Follow the crack and finish on some moderate but delicate slab towards a bolted anchor with rappel rings.

Sport 30m, 10
5.10d Voyageur

FA: Pierre Cornellier, Sep 2014

Sport 25m
5.8 Quetzalcoalt

Left-most route of the pink slab located at the entrance of the crag. Left of Xololt

Sport 25m, 11
5.9 Xololt

Right-most route of the pink slab located at the entrance of the crag. right of Quetzalcoalt.

Sport 25m, 10
5.10- Le Swing dla Naine

Slab left of the crack that is "Le Nain de jardin" and shares anchors with it.

Sport 20m
5.7 Le Nain de jardin

Climb crack/left-facing dihedral, then traverse left to anchors. Heavily bolted.

FA: Laurent Cloutier & Suzanne Chamberland, 2011

Sport 23m
5.10a Mosquito

FA: Pascal Lange

Sport 25m
5.10- Nomade

Start on top of a large boulder leaning against the cliff; slab then roof, then slab some more.

FA: Patrick Prénovost & Éric Paquet, Sep 2014

Sport 28m, 10
5.10a Éveil collectif

Rightmost route of the sector. Two diagonal cracks lead up the pitch. The second one heading to the right (and the anchors) is interesting to negociate.

FA: O-É P.Prénovost, 17 Oct 2020

Sport 25m

Showing all 30 routes.

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