Routes as sport in Eua

The descent gully from a signposted lookout point above, down to the base, some 100M north of Whale wall. Has now been equiped with bolts and rebelay stations for safe ascent when ropes are not fixed.

shares first bolt with "Pepe el Loco" then take right hand line toward tan rock

20m uphill from main whale wall

A short easy pitch to a belay ledge at 12m where the real climbing begins

P1: a groove on the right side leads to the dark featured rock above P2: continue up and right to a small overlap, above this and further right to the second anchor

A high first bolt and cruxy climbing getting past the next two. The rest of the line follows holds up the center of the panel between the two highly featured cave features on either side of the central panel of quality rock.

P2 finishes the line to a shared anchor with "Great Expectations" P2

Shared by several routes above. Climb the easiest line up the corner just left of the "Hounds Head" rock feature obvious on the ground at base of the Whale wall.

Tavake are the white-tailed tropic birds that frequently soar past the cliffs of Fangatave, and the namesake of this climb, in honour of the long white streak this climb ascends, high above the forest. The first pitch is a bit dirty, but well worth enduring for the stunning pitch above.

Have slings to extend draws on p2. When lowering off p2 be careful not to lose the wall, a 70m doubled over will NOT reach the ground with rope stretch. You must re abseil from p1 anchors to reach the ground.

2 pitch (16, 21) access via shared "Whale Access Pitch"

long grade 20 climbing above shared "Whale Access Pitch"

climbed on an anniversary, typical featured pockety climbing up the height of the wall, starts just left of the low cave left of "Whale Access Pitch"

Best to start using the tree where it is closest to the wall. Climb up into the groove feature. Easiest line on the wall, hardest right off the ground. possibly best to start with first two bolts of the line to the left.

Continuation of the line left of Beginners line, although makes for a an easier start. Starts behind some Fa trees, staying just to the right of a ledge/alcove system in the corner further to your left. above find a tufa and chimney system. (Route name suggested by Josh Merriam)

An alternate line, utilizing the hanging start from "Peka's Jail" but climbing up via the left into the easier rock above, perhaps accessing the jail from the rear? evidently two pitches of dubious quality

2 pitches: 19,21. After an interesting start climbing onto the hanging rock, need a stick clip for 1st bolt. endure a bit of sharp dirty rock to access the ridiculously steep and super fun 2nd pitch. An interesting cave in the middle after a biscuity tufa. The anchor is a challenge to clip.

Once above the tree, enjoy long pulls on hero holds on a slightly but consistently overhung wall. Pitch two turns the arete, which has been bluntened somewhat, before firing up the orange rock. For the best experience: stay in the orange, avoid the temptation to cop out left, and solve the crux! Move right a bit at the end and clip from under long, avoiding the black munge.

Starts from its own belay stance, three metres left and down from the "Trust me.." belay. Bolted by Paul Rogers who had to wait for the glue to set and didn't have time to send it. I asked him if its a project and he said it was "Up for grabs".

3P (17, 22, 24) Shares start with 'The White Shield', then diverts to a belay inside the scoop. P2, climb the roof and right arete of the giant scoop, veering left to an anchor above the bulge. The last pitch climbs directly up to finish at the original white shield anchor.

3 pitches: 16,17,26+ or 25. Climb highly featured rock up the left edge of the central column feature. Most will link the first two pitches. The third pitch climbs direct past bolts on clean scalloped rock and slopers, to the mega jug. Very nice, but currently unsent. An easier alternative is to move left at the second bolt, then up steep black pockets and pinches, staying left of the bolts. Note: black rock gets slippery on humid days.

Access the belay stance by sliding left from the top of 'Kina', or right at last bolt of P2 'the White Shield'. Climb steep mostly juggy rock for several bolts through minor cruxes to a great rest pod, then through the last roof via a hand jam to arrive at the base of the headwall. There is a distinct and mandatory crux getting to the last bolt (just right of the white shield anchor). Grab the victory feature mega hold, clip the last bolt, then finish at the tip of the grey water streak.

Named after Kina Taufa. Scamper up to high first bolt on good holds then pass the tufas to a corner system, onto face, into and back out of the dirty black groove, to gain a ledge and belay.

Endure a few mungey holds down low, then blast straight up this long, spacey route, negotiating an interesting corner and arete before arriving at the anchor in a recess.

You'll need some Polynesian navigation skills to get to this one! Starts from belay of third pitch of Skywalker. Clip the first Skywalker bolt, then veer left, cross the crack and head up steep wall on jugs.

Starts on a ledge in an open cave. P1 is steep and juggy. See if you can find the good holds before you pump out! There is a free purple Black Diamond nut for whoever can dislodge it. Head out left to continue upwards. Double bolt belay immediately after you gain the headwall. P2: Keep climbing up and you'll eventually reach the top.

P1. Start up beautifully featured stalactites, columns and flowstone and continue up face before trending right to belay in cave. Extending 3rd RB recommended. P2. Head through stalactites and continue up face trending right to belay in cave.

Descent: Single 30m abseil/rap to ground.

Climbs the obvious hanging curtain of stalactites. Start by climbing unprotected up past the brain to a belay which will help decrease drag. out right and up the ramp to the first bolt and access to the first of the flow. Use a double draw on the fourth bolt (inside the room with no floor) for optimal rope running. The harder climbing begins as you exit out the window and find your way up the final overhangs on great full hand pockets to finish at the base of the headwall. (name changed from Enlightenment)

P1. 19 - Start up a series of ledges and bulges tackled direct to belay at cave and ledge. P2. 20 - Head left from belay clipping hidden 2nd RB after 4m. Continue up beautifully coloured pocketed face and finish steeply up crack and pockets to belay at ledge and cave. A 3* pitch. P3. 20 - Head left from belay through small roof into some sharpish rock and precarious moves to small alcove and ledge. Continue up right side past RB to an exciting finish clipping the chains.

Can be linked to make a great 2-pitch or single megapitch route.

Descent: It is possible to abseil/rap off from the top anchors with a 60m rope perfectly centralised with stretch. Use tree at bottom to push yourself into ledge at base if not quite down!

Start as for pepe's Jungle Jam. Climb this for 4 bolts then right to great looking arete passed another 4 bolts to DBB

Mostly jugs. Anchors to the right of the ledge

Climb the tufa, go right, then up

Climb through overhang at the start, then go up. It's steep and fun!

Located just on the left of the downhill prow of Fa wall. Start below Heavily featured tufa groove, continue up for 8m. Follow sparse pockets up through very steep bouldery terrain to lip.

Starts just right of Blade Runner in the next corner line. Easy start leads to thin crux in left facing corner up to DBB.

Long varied climbing, quite consistent at the grade. Cleaned and sanitized well, but still sharp in places. above the midway anchor, the route veers left at the top to meet the anchor of "Cosmos"

Quality, thin, technical climbing. Very worthwhile. On pitch two, go up and right after the 4th bolt. You won't be able to see the next bolt from where you are, but it's there, don't worry. Both pitches grade 23

A thin technical section near the top makes this route unique

Two pitches make for a long, fun route

One of the easier routes on the wall. Juggy and a bit pumpy

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Very low first bolt. Climb the sharp easy stuff, then move right and go up the tufa system

Sharp at the bottom, gets tricky higher up

Quite tricky and sustained with interesting moves past a tufa and over a bulge

A one bolt variation start leading into B3 of the original upper climbing.

An interesting technical start with some big moves followed by a pump-a-thon

A tricky start followed by a pump-a-thon with a sting in the tail!

Goes through a rooflet that's somewhat tricky. Low first bolt is to protect both climber and belayer from falling off the belay ledge.

Up and under the stalactite then up to a seam which leads to the anchor. Best to stick clip the first bolt.

Third line of bolts. The first bolt is difficult to spot and was placed for a stick clip. Start up the seam to the right.

Open project for anyone that has not done an FA before. Starts in the overhang. Stick climb the first bolt to protect both climber and belayer. Grade around 19.

Boulder up to high 1st RB (extend) and go direct steeply through the niche, mantelling onto the elephant's foot stalactite via a 2nd hidden RB (on top of the foot). Continue past 2 more bolts to carefully clip the chains slightly to the left.

Climb the tufa, keeping an eye out for moko (geckos). Veer right, up steep pockets to finish.

Up tufa to stalactite, avoiding dirty holds, then solve the crux.

Climb stalactites and tufa on the steep face left of Faka'ofa'ofa. Stay left instead of turning the arete for maximum pumpy fun. There's a few mungey holds, but these can be avoided.

Climb beautifully featured flowstone arête trending left to final bulge and anchor.

Climb up and left, pass a double bolt anchor and continue up the fat tufa to a ledge above. A 60m rope probably won't get you all the way down, thus the lower anchor.

Quality face climbing up the immaculate brown face. Just slightly overhung. First ascended while a parade of whales performed below.

A fantastic, varied line, between 'Kontiki' and 'Prince of Whales' climbing the upper half of the Olu wall. Traverse in (easy but run-out) from the Kontiki access pitch.

Placeholder for new routes access pitch to triangle ledge

Inspired by President Trump meeting the Prince of Whales. P1. Up fossiliferous steep rock then follow corner to DBB. P2. Face climbing on the immaculate rock of the upper half of Olu Crag

Climbs up the inside left edge of the Muppet cave, one long reach gets into the steep where there's an obvious kneebar alcove before the turning the overhang to the top.

Access by traversing over from P1 of Prince of Whales to independent belay ledge (DBB).

An access pitch leading up into the Muppet cave. Starts off the farthest right point of the tidal ledge system, 3 bolts up the steep featured rock past the right edge of the smaller cave and into the dihedral feature. Use long slings here to avoid rope drag above. The climbing eases as well as the route angle, finishing with a DBB at the spacious and comfortable Muppet ledge.

Climbs the stalactites on the right side of the Muppet cave. The first bolt is high off the Muppet ledge, but easily reached from the comfortable stance among the stout pillars. pinch and pull the plentiful gonzo noses of stalactites through the roof. A good rest can be had by swinging left of the bolt line before the last steep section. Finish at the roof with installed lower off rams-horns for easy cleaning. Then take the big swing out from the rear of the cave and enjoy the view!

The access route for the main cliff, climbs black spikey flake/groove feature up to the "Genesis Ledge". Locate a single belay bolt behind a tree growing on the ledge system at the base. The obvious crux comes at the last 2 bolts as you pull over onto the ledge.

4 Pitches (18, 24, 23, 19) starts with "Genesis" for the first pitch.

Pitch 2 [grade 24] - Forbidden Fruit above the belay on the left side of "Genesis ledge", directly up steep clean pocketed rock. Good rest after 3rd bolt, crux between B5 and 6. Crazy jugs at bolt 7 that are too good to believe. Interesting corner system to the top. 9 bolts to DBB on the "footledge"

Pitch 3 [grade 23] - the Tree of Knowledge Straight up the corner above the belay, then sliding across the face on wild sculpted holds, to access a stalactite and undercling flake on the prow. You may partake of any of the holds on the wall, but grab not onto the tree of knowledge, it is Forbidden! Go left above the shrub, avoiding the sharpest rock to DBB on the grey prickly slab. 11 bolts

Pitch 4 [grade 19] - Exodus Up the slab onto well pocketed face, head right at the 6th bolt and traverse down around then up tufa at the top to a DBB immediately below the vegetation line. 7 bolts. Strongly recommended to belay second up from here for communication. then exit over the roots and bushes to a three trunked tree on the summit.

Face and Tufa climbing directly above the access pitch off of Genesis ledge. Strangely improbable flat holds lead you to the large incut feature at which point you have to slide around right onto the black tufa system. Climb this along with a selection of face holds on the left, until a sneaky slide to the right just below the headwall and glory pulls between great holds.

Above the DBB, a vegetated traverse on the jug flakes system leads left past two bolts to join "Forbidden Fruit"

The most climbers-left line on the Lost Wall cliff. The star of this route is the pitch 4 (27, 30m) on very good quality, yellow rock. The bolts to develop this climb were sponsored by Armbury Company.

1. (18, 20m, 6 bolts) (Bolting and FA by: Greg Jack and Joshua Merriam, July 2019) First pitch of Forbidden Fruit and Genesis. Climb spikey flake/grove feature up to the ‘Genesis Ledge’.

2. (16, 18m, 5 bolts) Easy climb traversing left to the anchor located on the second ledge.

3. (25, 18m, 6 bolts) Straight up easier terrain to committing bouldery sequence before the anchor.

4. (27, 30m, 11 bolts) Beautiful pitch. Very sustain climbing in steep terrain. Bolts are getting more apart on the easier terrain close to the top. Finish at the anchor located 3 meters below the top of the cliff to avoid the rope-drag on sharp rocks.

Unrelenting route up the sparsely featured steep wall. Starts off beautiful flowstone pedestal growing at the base of the wall with nice looking plant growing out of the wall just left of the line.

Steep pocket pulling. The first route established at this crag.

Steep with long moves between large pockets. Climb up and left into a small niche. Don't clip the bolt inside this niche, as there is now a better positioned bolt to the right.

3 Pitches: 17, 24, 23; Scramble down to a boulder with belayers bolt looking at at P1. Climb out across wet ledges to the first bolts. After clipping the second bolt (in orange rock) return to unclip the first bolt (in black rock) to save drag on the pitch. Following a rising traverse over the churning sea to a minor crux traversing a slippery corner at the last bolt, out to belay on the arete.

P2 traverses hard right, downclimbing a short section to access the line of least resistance. Immaculate stone with wild sculpted features leads you up to a belay ledge. There is an extra bolt for safty at the traverse, which should be reversed and unclipped once past.

P3 slips over a bulge with some difficulty, and then easily through the wildly steep (somewhat rotten) cave feature. There is a belay at the tip of the overhang, then one more bolt and several bomber threads to topout on the jungled summit.

Fantastic face climbing up bright orange rock. A steeper section down low relents to a good rest at half height before sustained bouldery moves above.

Descend gully on seaward side of Bowl of Cliffs, then rap off Fa trees to find anchor bolts where the good orange rock reaches its highest point. A 30m rap will get you down to the belay ledge. Be careful if you've got a 60m rope.

Note: A traverse has been bolted to allow escape from bottom belay to base of cave via 4 bolts. If there is no rope hung from the established abseil station, you’d need to climb Nautical Nonsense (24) on the North side to top out.