Routes

Take at least 16 draws, a few slings, and prussiks for leader and second. Two 50m ropes suffice. All U-bolts. Pitches 2→4 are protected from rain.

1. 45m (20) Starts about 50m down L of Iron Throne at freestanding pillar (look for U-bolts). While the easiest pitch, expect some adventure. Climb chimney between pillar and wall to ledge. Left and left again past ledges (take care) and up negotiating some shale to major corner system with great rock. Up this, eventually exiting L and up ramp to belay (bolts placed high, extend to belay on ramp).

2. 25m (23) Slabbing up solid grey, then orange rock with delicate section up high, trending L to large belay ledge.

3. 25m (25) Directly right off the belay, then blast up the sustained orange wall on perfect stone. Pull on fixed sling to avoid a sandy mantle and gain the belay in alcove. Third belay bolt available for positioning extra bodies or kit.

4. 25m (25) Committing roof in an exposed position (hard to grade this pitch as it's really just a couple of steep moves through the roof then easier climbing). A couple of bolts lead to the roof (rig to minimise drag). Once through ceiling, easier climbing on large features and some sandy scoops to outrageous belay stance on the edge of the world. Leave the second rope fixed to the p3 belay to assist getting back in, or if your second isn't keen, it's possible to be lowered and clean this like a regular sport pitch. 15 clips.

The first route on the left wall of the gully, before you hit the creek. The belay zone is perpetually muddy, so a rope tub rather than rope bag is recommended. Scramble onto high platform to put your shoes on then blast off. Much effort has gone into ensuring the unique ironstone "wave" in the final roof stays in place for your climbing pleasure. You can happily hang off it and double kneebar against it - just don't kick it or try to deliberately break it. Take one long sling for the first roof.

About 10m R of Headliner. A well-protected roof boulder to start, then epic steepness on equally epic-sized holds. The finish is wild. Kneebars not required. Will my grade of 25 stick?

Access as if you were walking to Jimmy Cliff, but when you drop into the (second) creek and come up the other side, don't go R along the path, instead go straight up to a smooth rock pillar/shelf under the roof. Stickclip high first bolt, then truck left along the rail to set up for a knee-related crux on Nowra-like stone. Then take it to the top. A roller on the belay bolt helps with boinking.

5m L of ASITD at the black face with small rooflet. Start at flake. Stickclip, then very powerfully up and right to tough second clip. Very thin to the third, then relax, it's in the can.

Start a couple of metres L of AATM. Steep wall climbing past the "moonboard crux", then the mega popcorn ceiling. A few sandy holds can be avoided in the last couple of easy metres to the anchor, no biggie. Recent comments suggest it might be harder than 28, opinions welcome.

The big left to right traverse. Start 10m L of POD under large hueco. Stickclip then blast right (including some up and down climbing) along huge features to the crux transition climbing up to the big roof. Then jug upwards to glory. Better beta has seen this settle at 29.

The scoop feature 10m L. Carefully traverse in across the ledge to clip first bolt and begin. Reasonably sustained with a crux lunge that is a bit more powerful than you want it to be at the grade.

A great little testpiece. 5m L of FTD. Stickclip and traverse in from the L. Techy, bouldery moves past the second bolt on pockets to get established on the face above. Classy climbing on ripples and incuts from here to the top.

Climb Basic Instinct to the first ledge. Clip third bolt with long sling then climb up a few moves before traversing directly L out of BI along line of pockets and up to major ledge. Marble rock above this before encountering the bulge. Jetpack through this but keep some in the tank for the technical headwall up proud orange streak.

3m L of TS. This boulder problem on a rope climbs through the distinctive hole in the roof before getting to grips with some very small holds. Very hard to grade as the key move is a long reach - span will affect difficulty. Climbed with first two bolts clipped and no cairn - the start move is part of the route.

1m R of The Specialist. With its multiple roof boulders, has a very similar flavour to The Specialist, but likely a touch harder. Deceptive headwall finale.

Up pockets and through roof to ledge. Full body climbing through the next steep section to ledge. A lower angle final third caps things off. Take a couple of long slings and kneepads.

5m L of Basic Instinct. A boulder route with tricky sections split by ledge rests. Cool iron-cross boulder moving L under roof then up to ledge. Extremely steep elevator doors scoop section to more moderate headwall finish.

If you're planning an onsight, access per the dedicated Samarkand abseil route (see description) and take about 18 draws. If you plan to rap the route instead (slower, but you get to see what you're in for), you'll need a 130m rope. Your top anchor (DBB) is hidden 10m up and right of Samarkand's top anchor, behind grass tree. You will need a rope protector for the top edge and lots of quickdraws to clip in on the way down to stay in contact. Choosing a day with westerly breeze is recommended.

1. 12m (24) 10m R of Samarkand. A bit of a goey "good morning!" move getting past the 2nd&third, then interesting balance features. Steeper than it first appears. 5 bolts. Ledge belay (DBB).

2. 15m (28) Pull the lip, then balancy yet powerful moves past a few bolts, eventually easing to jugs and a small foot ledge for belay (DBB) in base of corner. 6 bolts.

3. 32m (27) Monster corner - the money pitch! Weaves in and out of the corner following holds and avoiding blankness. When the corner ends, there’s still a disturbing amount of climbing to go. At least three or four long slings, or more, can minimise drag on this wandering journey. Belay on ledge (DBB). 15 bolts.

4. 36m (25) The Trail Of Tears. Up through roof and the unique ‘limestone’ face above. Major ledge for belay (DBB). 16+ bolts.

5. 25m (23) Corner and short wall to finish. Anchor behind grass tree up the hill. 8 bolts.

Certain pitches were freed individually earlier, but the first ascent was done in a continuous push.

Start where the track meets the rock. High stickclip to start; steep, moderate climbing for 6 bolts to a ledge below the 'slab'. A baffling move to overcome the slab and then it's game on up the headwall on cool pockets to an improbable-looking, dynamic crux. Take one long sling for the first bolt on the slab.

Was partially bolted, abandoned, and now cleaned up 20 years later. 3m R of Basic Instinct, up the slab past two rings onto the diving board. Very carefully up Corner, then out left to the arete. Continue up the right side of this with increasingly interesting moves. Hand traverse the holdless rising ramp, where a few more pulls will see you on the headwall with pleasant edges leading to the anchor.

Be an arborist to gain the ledge. A quick mantle, then it steepens through a strenuous little bulge and final juggy headwall. The crux might be keeping your rope out of the drink.

A new addition that weaves its way around the massive flake feature at half height. Enjoy.

Links Force Cannon into Farkenright. Climb all of the hard bit of FC to the horizontal break just before the ledge. Now bust directly right via a tricky boulder, then across the break to the hourglass hold, continuing R as per Farkenright. Lots of roof climbing!

As for Farkenstone, but instead of tackling Arkenstone's roof boulder, keep trucking right to finish on the skyline. Consistent juggy steepness the whole way.

Avoids The Arkenstone's bouldery lower crux by coming in from the left. Clip the first bolt on Force Cannon, then up right past four new bolts to join the original at the 'hourglass' hold. Finish directly up through the roof as for Arkenstone.

Starting at the top of the handline. Up and out through the monster roof. Fun!

An epic adventure up all sorts of vertical terrain. Starts 50m around left from Waylander proper. Arete to start then technical wall and hidden slab - then traverse right and up slabby arete and then face, bulge and corner to finish. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Watch your rope length - 70m rope will just get you down if your belayer stands on the starting cairn!

Was a long standing project - then Lee came up with the bright idea to just use the arete rather than avoid it.

Far right end of wall. Up short wall to break. Steep punch to inverted kneebar rest. Boulder out the crux traversing directly left through steep territory before latching the final drive-by and topping out on the arete.

A landmark feature, but the rock is average at best! Up the major left facing corner-crack between the choss-arete and STMLTS, with much loose rock on the right wall. Hard moves through the vegetation, up scary block of mega-choss, up off-width overhanging corner (with sections of choss) and finally up into roof to lower-off anchors. The theme of the day is choss! FA was done in a giant pitch (and not using any of the nearby bolts), but best to split this into two pitches at the interim belay below the giant choss-block (or just bring 3 x full racks #0.75 to #4 and lots of runners).

Three distinct boulder problems. So good! 6 bolts to lower off.

Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off.

Big move off undercling down low and huck to monster jug rail. Past hole to right side of rooflet. Up on edges to ledge and final wall to top out. Dynamic climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Pouncy low roof, sloper crux, traverse left then cool hanging corner, arete and a baffling final move. 10 bolts to lower off.

Effectively a 2nd pitch to Digitalicious through the short steep roofs above the shale ledge. Short right facing flake, wall then long move through roof to jug. Hand traverse right then up steep wall above to crux section passing the final bolt. Mantle the lip to finish. Back-jump.

5m R. Scramble up to high first bolt on far right of the choss ledge. A few bolts lead up and R (slab) until it kicks back. A long move to a flake begins the steep climbing. A pronounced crux lunge (stopper bloc?) leaves you with the last victory move to finishing jug.

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Climb Extra Shot. Then bust R along the rail passing one FH to anchor of Glenn’s project. Back-jump.

6m R. The cool-looking overhanging mini-corner-seam. Very bouldery and difficulty might be a bit height dependent? 6 FH’s to anchor. A grade or 2 harder now after broken holds **

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

1m R. Scramble up to start ledge from R, then carefully wander over to far L of ledge (chalky choss) to U-bolt above a chossy white V-groove. Route blasts up from here passing 5 FH’s to anchor. Steep, bouldery and thin with a spicy top section. A bit of care with the beautiful start flake, please.

5m R. Starts on high ledge near remains of a tree 5m off the deck. Access this by scrambling up from far R, then carefully walking back L. Clip first UB on Miss Sixty with long sling for safety while getting established on the line. Four clips (UB’s and FH’s) and very bouldery tension climbing. Anchors on smooth orange shield.

This route climbs the obvious beauty double white streaks on the far right of the wall. To access, climb Sundae Slab, then traverse fixed line R to DBB on dirt ledge beneath scoop. Edge up the scoop to easy choss ledges (easy does it) beneath steep wall. Clip first FH on steep wall with a screwgate to limit potential fall distance, then blast the wall above.

2m R. Jug hauling on severely overhanging territory - should be popular. 5 bolts to low anchor just after the big break. Take care with the third clip.

A large traversing line. First three bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

From the belay, go up (same bolt as Closed Project Glenn) and then hard right (run out). This second-rightmost line of bolts provides climbing which builds in difficulty as you go. Once you reach the underclings, it’s ON all the way to the anchor clip

The line 10m R which blasts straight up the guts of the steepness. U-bolt, then 6 FH’s up the 45 degree overhung wall to an incredible finish with one of the best holds I’ve ever seen on the finishing ledge. Classic.

2m R. More steepness with some very big moves and a challenging and spectacular finale past the break. Was impressively onsighted in its original form but has since shed a major hold down low and is a bit harder. It has now shed a lot more holds and it will need some work before it is solid again

Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.

15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.

Directly up from belay passing shared bolt, then step R onto ledge. Two close bolts, then into the biggest corner on the wall. Up, then quaker flake laybacks up the steep wall. Fingery crux caps things off.

Coolum's highest route. Climb CFT and top out on the ledge. You might like to pull and re-drop your rope to lessen drag. Step right, and blast through steep but juggy terrain into the stratosphere. Some longer draws at certain spots will ease your pain. The final bolt (anchor) is just below the top of the cave and currently sports a leaver biner. You can just get down on a 60m from here, but back-jump to clean. (Was closed, but has been rebolted - 2015)

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of Seven Year Itch. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

A varied steep adventure on classic Tibro features.

1. 20m Climb the initial 8 to 10 meters of Out of the Blue... but stop before it traverses right. Instead go left for a few meters and clip a FH (long sling). Climb out roof past 3 more FHs to lip, from lip follow FHs up steep wall to the right eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. DBB.

2. (Project) Heading out left and up. Bolting unfinished.

Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

Climb Dave until you're at the double UBs above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at 'CFT''s anchor.

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

Climb this as one pitch from the ground. Climb FIHP, extending the last clip, and climb directly up the wall above past 5 RBs to wild conclusion which resembles mantling the end of a diving board.

Start as for previous but once off the ground, step right to first bolt in R-leaning black corner. Up this til possible to lean left and clip UB on steep wall. Punchy moves up this (2 UB's) then easier headwall.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Page's first bolted route. Start as for previous in the corner. Up the black R-leaning corner then push through bulge on headwall to a large set of chains. The upper wall has some superb rock and should be experienced.

U-Bolts. Up the easy corner to ledge. Clamber onto ledge on right then up wall with cool pockets through steep wall. First bolt on headwall is a stretch, then onwards to glory.

Begins with an easy crack then changes dramatically into a sustained crux to the anchors.

10m or so L of Are We Dancer. Vegetated right-trending access ramp (line of least resistance) to the L side of the Sun Bowl sector (with lower off). First FH at about 10m.

Pockets to slab to overhang with some nice rests. Top is technical and makes the grade and necessitates a careful belay.

Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off.

Big and bold, a King Line of the Summit Cave. Devotion required. To start, set a belay on the ledge atop Trojan's first pitch using the first bolt of this route. Stem and undercling out the beyond horizontal roof to lip. Lip traverse right. Up very steep wall to 'the arrow hold'. Then breach crux to gain the corner of In Between Dreams. Finish up this.

Consider a stickclip for the first bolt not to fall into the cave below!

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

Rap in off top FH or scramble down. There is a FH for belay at the base. Four FH’s on polished moon rock.

Climb to Chevy's last bolt, go left and finish up GA.

Start up Procrastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt. Finish the link-up at Slider's chains.

Traverse out right and diagonally up the engaging slab to the base of overhung arête. Up, with some bouldery, and then balancy moves on amazing scoopy rock features. Mind-blower!

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

Pack your draws because this is a super link-up. Climbs the 1st and 2nd of Procrastinator, 2nd and 3rd of Slider, bolt 3, 4 and 5th of Squealer, 4th of Madder, 3rd of Howler, 4th and 5th of Wailer, 4th of The Final Piece and finish up this. Some long slings will help alleviate rope drag.

Same as for Procrastihowler but head R again and through the Wailer crux to finish the line.

Same as for Procrastisquealer but at the 6th bolt of Squealer bust right again across Madder and then power through the crux of Howler and up this.

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Marked "AFD".

Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top.

Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'.

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Marked "AFD".

Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'.

Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV".

1. 30m (15) 11 bolts. Starts about 30 metres to the left of the access track, marked with a 'T'. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

2. 15m (17) 7 bolts. Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

3. 15m (18) 6 bolts. This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

4. 20m (15) Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

5. 30m (16) Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness. Use long extenders (120cm+) for at least the first 5 bolts.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH.

1. 45m (18) 15 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

Descent: Abseil back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

Take wires and cams to #3, with a strong emphasis on small cams such as aliens.

1. 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station.

2. 30m (18) Take lots of small cams. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch.

3. 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L. Peregrine Falcons nest just 10 metres to the right of this pitch so best to avoid in breeding season (August to November).

4. 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station.

5. 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall.

6. 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station.

Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route.

Start in the cave 1m R behind Fireflies pillar. Well protected climbing up a tight and fully enclosed chimney. At the top, exit L to DBB.

Climb 'Bird Dance For Shiva' to halfway. Swing L into blank corner with crack. Up crack past piton(!). Finish R at 'Steaming Wally' chains.

The route starts just L of the second RB on the fixed rope traverse. Crank up into cave. Lean out and clip RB on lip. Monkey up into easy ground. Run up corner past tree and get situated under roof, clipping RB on bulge. A gut-busting boulder problem into the corner (#2 SLCD) and up carefully to tree belay.

15m L of the start of the crag. L-facing corner with bottomless start (very hard for some) above the beach. All natural gear, except for a shared final RB.

Good stuff! Starts at the same point as Peeping Tom, but traverse directly right to first of three black FHs. There is a pronounced crux lunge at 2nd FH. Rap chains at top.

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

Start 1m R of 'That Boy Needs Therapy', 3m L of 'Plunging for Mudbunnies'.

Up past 2 RBs then clip 3rd RB at lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB.

Start: Directly in front of Lightbox #6, 2m Left of GR. Committing start up blank slab to 1st RB, big run-out, but easier ground to next RB, then nice moves follow corner up, passing another RB, then delicately to last RB, layoff & pinch the blunt arete & bridge up to chains.

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on UBs to wacky "rest" on arete. Continue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.

The slab 6m to the left of “Jostling”

Slab with bad landing.

One of the best routes on the cliff offering superb climbing on excellent rock. Start at double RB belay. Climbs up left side of arête passing four RB’s before switching to the right side of the arête passing another four RB’s to top.