Routes

Start as for Sack of Woe, then left to very steep prow. Joins the last moves of Up Jumped the Devil.

Few meters right of Gravel Rash. Up steep scoop to base of roof. Bouldery through roof then head right to Assassins/Hashish final boulder. Bolted by Zac Vertrees. Ben Cossey has temp bolts going direct out the roof. Stay off them, they will not hold a climbing fall.

Bouldery first half to break, followed by two hard dynos that probably favour a decent wingspan. Tom declined to grade this but climbed it in a couple of tries.

Incredible rock, incredible climbing and incredible position. Take plenty of draws (18ish), especially for pitch 2. Generously bolted (I think). Interested to hear what people think .

1. 25m (20) - Easy slab, face climbing. Up corner, flakes and crack. Some fragile rock. Take care on top out. There is loose rocks your belayer won't want on their head. DBB for P2

2. 40m (26-28?) - Insane pitch up crack and arete to upper bulge. The crux at 2/3 height is very cool. Come out of the corner, onto arete and face and span to a committing pop. Then easy and to ledge and TBB (18ish bolts?)

3. 25m (26-28?) - Pull mini roof to some balancy face climbing. Scoot around little prow then up and right, then back left and up to ledge and TBB. (Not sure what is happening with old rope, gear. Needs taking out).

4. 30m (26-28?) - Easy off ledge to little roof boulder. Airy and committing through roof. FA involved swinging wildly off the jug to establish toe hooks and heel hooks on lip then hands follow. Up balancy prow to ledge and TBB.

5. 30m (25) - Fantastic swooping pitch across vertical wall. Could be a sting in the tail. Up to ledge and DBB.

6. 15m (10) - scramble through vegetated corners out left to topout. Clip bolt on small exposed slab after top out then belay off big gum tree out right. 120cm sling or use your climbing rope as anchor.

Start as 'The Sweetest Contrivances' then traverse left through the overhang to link into 'Drop It Like It's Hot'. Pumpy and hard. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=126

Steep grey wall among the trees 20m L of CDD. Take care on the loose shale above a big drop as you round the corner. Tom

Start on the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp.

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

A similar linkup to Tiger Vinyl, but stays in Love Cats all the way to Beta Vinyl then takes Beta Vinyl to the top. Doing it this way avoids some of the zigging and zagging that TV has.

As for Chulahoma to ledge, then head further right under roof to next line of bolts. Funky climbing to make it through roof and around lip. Grade is a total guess. Tom was working moves and had no real sequence sorted. Went up for another working burn and just climbed the whole way through. He went back a few years later and couldn't figure out the sequence that worked and it all felt hard.

Tiger Cat to the half way jugs then across right and finish as for Beta Vinyl. The Don't Believe the Hype of Elphinstone.

Sit-starts at bottom of dihedral and climbs to top of dihedral finish at juggy 2 finger and cod-mouth jug over lip - easier since a new foot sequence was discovered, compared to original crux-pounce that Tom did Sam Healy

Sit start on the arete with a lousy orange LH side pull, and RH pinching the arete. Up the arete initially before making hard moves right- finishing up improving holds- to end in the last good pocket in the roof where the holds completely run out.

For a mega-proj, it is possible to swing back to the lip from the jugs in the roof, and the moves up the headwall go at insecure V3/4.

Tom O'Halloran

Start as for Dumbo Love then left over top of scoop. Punchy crux then nice low angle climbing to the top. Crux punch may be morpho, 5'8" and under it could be very hard. 6ft it's hard. 6'3" could be easy. Hard to grade. 29-31?

4m right of Up Jumped the Devil. Climbs straight up. Nowhere to hide on this. One of the best bouldery routes in the mountains. New sequence makes it a bit easier than the FA beta.

Start at prow through ferns. Up steep, right trending climbing to ledge (27 to here). Then blast out big holds and big moves in roof to a jumpy crux at lip (careful with belay). Then climb to top of the cliff.

Start on the right side of the bowl and climb up and into the corner above. A trady feeling pitch.