Routes

The groove up the centre of the ampitheatre to DBB. Starts at small pedestal onto column and steps right as it starts to steepen into main line.

Up left facing corner then continue steeply up nose

From the toe of central gully right wall start on rock rib then briefly as for Low Road but from narrowing move left onto cracked arete that leads to sloping ledge. Excellent gear and great aspect. DBB just below bush line on ledge. Named after the amount of blue coloured rubbish we have removed this trip.

The line just right of DD with a tricky but well protected exit from the steep crack. From. There trend right across Tendonitis to join Captain Pugwash and finish up that route to Belay on bollard as for Christmas Carol.

Start as for Bird Noises but once established traverse right to the system of vertical flakes, then up corner feature to roof. Follow left-rising ramp until below direct finish (still a project) then traverse right to arete and finish up final metre of bowerbird to DBB. Double ropes essential.

Starts up Bird Noises and traverses right to join the left traverse on NTFG before finishing as for that route ie by traversing right to arete. DIrect finish still a project. Traverse has been done above and below the bush at similar grades.

As for NTFG but at the small roof where that route traverses left, go right to arete and finish up Bowerbird for its last 6 metres. Fewer cruxes but still good. Double ropes essential.

This isolated highball is worth a visit. Either a V5 or 25 if you place gear to protect ankles. A pleasant 20min walk from the campsite, either rock hopping west or take the dirt road opposite the low camp entrance. This road leads to the coast with the wall immediately to its left looking over the channel to the Sisters islands.

A variant p5 for HHCIB. From the pedestal below the second last bolt on pitch 4 take the direct corner/ ramp for 25m until able to traverse right and up to DBB. Continue up the final pitch of HHCIB. Gear full rack of cams to #3 with double # 0.75 and #1 and a good selection of wires

Abseil 50m from 60cm slings at DBB just below highest point of the NE buttress to large vegetated ledge with quartz covered ramp. Walk towards the lake to DBB and extend anchor with 120cm slings and abseil 70 m to a grassy terrace. Can be done as 2x 35m rappels. Gear: 16 quickdraws, small wires, cams from micro cams to #2, slings for abseil, spare biners for anchors

1. P 1) 34m 19 up short arete to thin crack then head left past bolt to arete. Continue airily to DBB. 10 bolts and small wires and micro cams

2. P2) 36m 18 continue up arete to DBB. 10 bolts.

3. P3) 25m 21 walk up ramps to base of wall and start at a finger/ hand crack that leads at 6 m into a chimney on the right side of a pinnacle. From top of pinnacle bouldery moves past 3 bolts lead to an alcove, from this step right onto slab and up to DBB. 4 bolts and gear

4. P4) 25m 11 a single bolt is visible on the skyline to the right from the belay. Walk 2m right up vegetated ledge to crack then up this staying right to the bolt and up onto grassy ledge. The crack just to the left leads to the starting DBB. 1 bolt and gear

From common start take the left route

Left around the arete from DOG. Step off block onto wall, traversing left at midway pockets to flake then up, between the orchids. DBB

Start from terrace above squeeze chimney at flake. Slightly overhung climbing through roof let to finish left at interesting mantle and DUBB on ledge. Rock improves after first 2 metres.

The middle of the slab right of Coming At Ya. Start from top of block, stick clip first bolt. DBB

Onto block and up the overhung honeycombed wall to slab finish. Don’t skimp on final moves if tall.

Start up 'Prickles' but move right via extra bolt to finish on anchors of 'Marmite'. The name is that of the ubiquitous Watagans bush that Monkeyface climbers are only too familiar with, removing tiny thorns for days after an encounter

Start as for CC, then step right to arete and thin face. 1 RB, 4 bolts. Suggest set up anchor off tree and place bolt plates and quickdraws as you abseil in. Mantle onto ledge to finish.

Step right off block then up arete before heading left to shared anchors with Davafly

Starts 2m R of Wilde Seam on upper tier at thin finger crack. Head left to DBB on slab

Offwidth and tight V chimney 1 m right of Iguazu past golden fin of rock. Head to DBB to left up slab

Starts down right of NF up twin cracks past small tree, continue across slab left to anchor

A very direct start to the Sydney route, starting to the north. Pitch 1 50 m Just to the left of the lowest part of the cliff, which coincides with E face changing to SE face is a grassy knoll. Scramble up this from the north to the first sloping terrace. Stepped rock with an incipient line heads up left, nearly meeting with the top of the knoll 2m up-it would be possible to step right from the high part to join the line.

Up trending slightly left with spaced gear, back right at 15 m above a threader, then left aiming for a fused open book corner under a roof. Near the roof at 40 m step left around a blunt arete for 2 m to belay in a small alcove on small cams . Good quality rock. Spaced gear.

P2 30 m straight up from belay to short corner (small wires) then step right onto featured slab . Up into stemming groove exiting left then step right onto wall and straight up to arrive at top of chasm where P 3 of Sydney route starts.

Starts on buttress at right hand end of sector. Stick clip high bolt to protect bouldery start, then up slightly right into thin crack that takes small gear to finger size. DBB as for arete on left, or belay on slab and finish up NCM pitch 2.

Undercut start on left side of arete and up left face, heading right to anchors before slab. Anchors fixed hangers only at present with single maillion.

Start up Whinging cripple for 15 metres. At chimney step right onto face via diagonal crack and up slabby line staying left of NMAB bolts with adequate gear to shared anchors.

From the top of Whinging Cripple clip bolt up and left, then step down and airily go left around buttress into a groove on its left side. Follow this to chain anchors past 2 horizontals. Good but spaced gear.

From the top of Fanciful go right over rib of rock into right facing groove. Up to DBB. Excellent water washed rock. Single set of cams 0.5 to #4 .

The shortish corner left of arete to shared anchors. A set of micro cams and 0.75, 1 and #2 cams suffice.

The stepped appearing crack just left of a pillar of stacked blocks, and 4 m right of Arete. Good gear throughout RPs to #3. At half height the angle eases and vegetation increases. Trend left to top via a slabby hand crack. Trad belay. Alternatively at 15 m, traverse 3m left to anchors and abseil.

Seam 3 m left of big roof, stick clip high first bolt. Offset wire blue DMM, #0.75 cam and micro cam needed before crack closes. Continue up groove through small roof up high

The sharp overhanging arete 15 m right of waterfall. Start on ground, not up ramp. Optional small finger size wire or cam after last bolt. Optional small wires to start, or use a long stick. Walk back to DBB.

Technical stemming corner past 2 bolts to the widening crack, taking everything from a 00 C3 to a #4 Camalot, step right to anchors as for Ponzie Scheme

The chimney feature in the alcove. Joins NMAB after a short section of finger crack on the right wall. The name says it all.

Start 5m left of the the No Trachyte for old Men corner. Up wall, through roof and up to the undercut block passing 5 bolts. A short section of technical jambs and laybacks gains the perfect hands corner, above which a cam protected wall, leads up and right to double bolt anchors. Caution: 70m rope needed to lower or double ropes to rappel.

Start as for DMG first bolt, but go direct, steeply passing 3 more FHs to join finger to hand crack to pedestal. Then up middle of buttress following intermittent cracks through 2 rooflets. Solid protection with single rack from micro cams to #2, and many wires from large RP size up( offsets useful). Same anchors on ledge as ExSlovenian. Easily toproped after doing that route.

Start at low roof, just right of ES. Stick clip first bolt near lip. Up corner and traverse right under roof to mantle Past second bolt then up left side of buttress with wires and cams to #3 through fern, passing historical piton en way. When level with top of buttress step right to Careless Fingernicker anchor.

Surmount pyramidal blocks to the left of chopping block then up face passing to bolts to small alcove under roof, continue up face passing two more bolts to DBB. Small wires and cams to #1 To supplement bolts essential

Start at mid point of roofs, 3m left of Dekaputation below finger to hand rack with undercut start. After pulling hard start, the climb relents to a fun grade 12 on great rock. No anchors at present.

1. (22) 45m

2. (20) 35 m

3. (22) 50m

4. (14) 30 m

5. (5) 20 m

Offwidth left of VC, trending left to tree to belay. Cams or tubes to BD #5 essential though it will take larger gear.

The very wide offwidth, 20m right of "Go Figure". Originally led with #9 and #12 Valley Giant cams and a #4 Big Bro (long continuous corner crack wider than a #6)

The next offwidth corner right of "The Wide Open Lobe" with an offwidth crux at mid height and a sting in the tail near the top (#5 and #6 size)

The face left of GB, trending left to finish as for C to shared anchors

P1 20 m 23 As for Aslan pitch 1, belay on ledge. P2 25 m 24. Start Aslan pitch 2 but exit stemming box on left and take crack to left of Aslan corner.

Direct route following blunt arete in the middle of wall through roof direct to shared DBB as for Taipan/ Easy Meat. . #1 and #0.4 cams between 3rd and 4th bolt and a 0.75 in pocket after last bolt. Belay just down from terrace, #3 for belayer protection.

1m right of cave, passing 3 RBs to crack at left of roof. Cams to #1.

Straight up the orange and black striped wall right of A. Avoid bridging into that route for full value. Plug hand sized cams into the diagonal then up overhung wall As for Plagiarism variant To finish at DBB

Shares the same first 2 pitches as IALR, but after confirming with Noddy, the last two pitches are independent. The psychological crux is still the first chimney pitch, after this the climbing is well protected.

1. (17) 45m crack to left of Rocket Man (Ride?). Run out between last chockstone and fig tree up body chimney. Belay at stance above fig at 33m or continue through to second fig.

2. (17) 35m continue up R arcing corner to near where it diverges left. Cross slab towards large brown corner, belaying at stance below fig and L facing flake line. IALR continues up and right for its third pitch.

3. (18) 60m straight up to left facing flake and around this flake into double corner system. Approaching ledges at 60 m exit right to belay below L facing corner.

4. (19) 35m up L facing corner for 15 m, then airy hand traverse right for 20 m. Then easy scramble to top.

The centre of wall left of finger crack avoiding the stacked blocks

Up direct to right edge of cave then straight up slab to left side of boulder at top. 4 bolts. Hangers needed. Highly recommended to abseil over route on fixed line from tree and place hangers and draws. Finish with Both hands on top ( bolt at waist) and use abseil line as anchor to lower from. The route is visible from the walkers lookout.

Slab to low roof. Tricky moves past second bolt, then continue up to the right of prow, moving right at top to shared anchors.

Start 2 m right of the stepped low roofs at a sinuous line that heads up the right side of the inset pillar. Step a bit left to place a runner in the roof crack of D if needed. Chimney at top. Gear to # 5. Trad belay.

Start in corner at stepped low roofs. If nervous about the large hanging block go direct at same grade. Go through second roof into finger crack that widens to body crack up left side of inset pillar. Head left onto ledge, step left a metre and finish up short chimney. Trad belay

From the belay ledge of WTC continue up the line to top. Possible to abseil in from a variety of hardware.

Start up arete, sharing crux and then step into corner and up to anchors via squeeze chimney. Can also start up CMC trending left and up corner at grade 17

Wide crack on pagoda in south facing amphitheatre. Doubles from #2 to #5 and triple #3 recommended

Double ropes and small wires and C3s handy. Crux well protected. Note that the topo in the Haasnoot guide is incorrect. Vlad goes direct through the towering blocks (the spikes with which one impales). Someone has placed DUB anchor.

Climb the seam past 3 bolts ( stick clip advised) to the double ring bolt belay at the top of Flake.

Step right off ledge to left arete of buttress 3 m right of CRackaphonic Crack. Technical moves to DBB

Straight up centre of buttress to DBB

The right arete of buttress. Shared anchors with EOS. DBB

Start on left side of cave 2 m R of SC. Left into left facing corner. Small cams (c3s) to #1. Tree belay.

The chimney to off width corner to thin crack right of OE with a flake on the left wall. Belay at abseil station.

A thin right leaning crack in the centre of the wall. No lower offs as yet.

Steep corner 5m right of Bakers Chimney. Fingers to thin hands.

An alternative second pitch to IBE, instead of heading left from the belay ledge stay right and go up the fused corner. There is some gear.

Choss to roof using dead tree as for TOTT. The climbing then rapidly improves. Instead of stepping right continue straight up line on small but excellent gear. Surmount flake and continue up hand crack, stepping left to exit at top, as for final corner of DS.

The crack bisecting the wall just left of access ramp. Up left of fern easily for 10m. Martial your TCUs, and finger size cams, and small to medium offset wires and launch up the overhanging seam. Hand size gear for the finish at DBB just before the moss sets in. The route has been done to the top.

Left most route on left wall of central buttress. 25 m left of Oberon, walk through vegetation then up to base of this sector. The route is just right of where track meets wall

2m right of RS. Veer right to seam then back into groove to anchors

Finger crack bisected by a welcome alcove. Belay off tree

Start 4 m right of PV. Up groove to chimney and offwidth squeeze chimney. Belay on slings on ledge.

Common start as for Foctopus/ daisy diversion but continue direct up crack on left hand wall, pass belay for Foctopus, then straight up crack to top.

The right sided dihedral of the big black buttress. A set of small to medium cams needed with 5 FHs to DBB over top. Abseil off.

Lay away the thin seam 5m right of Fools Gold. Start on ramp. Optional cam or nut in pocket between first and second bolts. DBB

Stemming groove to finger/hand crack, just right of Fools Gold. #0.25 cam break between 2nd and 3rd bolts, finger to hand size gear to the top

Start at flakes in middle of wall. Up with C3 s and wires in thin crack to right of flakes for protection, to pass roof on left side. Green and red C3 essential at this point. Move up then right to join crack which widens, then from ledge step right and slab up line of least resistance to white gum belay above BoB.

Start as for Rigors under hanging arête, but continue to follow diagonal crack right to join a widening vertical crack that continues to ledge and then to top.

4m right of Linfox and it's marking tree is a blunt arête that is undercut just above the ground. Start just left then move right up arête which sports a thin crack and straight up with gear to #3. Belay/ rap off white gum tree at top of route, about 6 m below top of cliff.

The arête at right side of wall . Climbs the right face. Unfortunately first bolt makes you swing around arête if you come off, just start with second clipped. A long sling over the edge from anchors on platform will protect last moves.

The left most route closest to the ocean starting under a triangular roof Hard moves under and over the roof then more easily to the top

Splitter crack with a small roof down low then a sustained offwidth. Was 23M1, best done with 3 #6, 3 # 5, a .75 for a horizontal, # 4 and a # 9 and big bro for the top.

Left facing corner to step right at roof to belay on ledge (15) 25m. Continue up right facing corner to convenient tree (13) 25m. Descent down vegetated gully to climbers left.

From pedestal of rock launch up the centre of the buttress on RB to DBB, with occasional moves on the left arête. Finish with hands on top of cliff.

A long single pitch, or can belay on ledge at 20 m. Left facing corner 15 m right of Morenci under hanging corner. Up easy hand crack to overhanging layback. Step right to ledge and up to roof, step right and continue up corner and face to top

Stemming groove and hanging arête 10 m R of BOB. Belay back off trees. Take C3s for the groove. A single bolt protects the crux move into the corner.

Boulder the arête straight up into the overhanging crack past good gear jorizontals. DBB

15 m L of Barely credible and about 15 m R of where the wall changes direction down towards the base of the orange buttress. Large white streaks on the rock. This follows a R trending blocky ramp. Pitch 1 30 m grade 19. High first bolt, follow poor rock for 30 m to belay at chain. Possible to abseil from here. Pitch 2 16 m up on better rock with hard move through bulge 19 A0, or grade 22 to top out

Mixed route (5 bolts and small gear) 3m right of “Emoji” at the right hand end of the main overhang. Up arête past 2 bolts and small cams to ledge and gear, then up and right through steepening territory passing 2 more bolts to single bolt belay ( at present)

Start from top of block just left of large pillar that is leaning on main wall. Good 0.75 in undercling to left, then step left into thin seam that runs up blunt arête. A set of TCUs and cams to 0.75 and a good medium wire. DRBB

Start off block left of pillar leaning against wall as for LT. Up Past bolt to gain finger crack that continues up from the top of the pillar to share anchors with LT. Gear to #1. Lots of small cams.

Right of WY, start off boulder, done originally pulling on aid bolt to overcome undercut buttress. Step left and up wall direct. Was 21 M0, now free. Chain belay with single carabiner.

Start right of corner, and left of arête. Move up and right through pockets to cross water streak, and up clean orange streak to DBB

Start up Y but at 1/3 height step left into hanging corner. And continue up the line.

south facing corner at start of waterfall sector. Up short pedestal then through fern into sickle shaped crack. Continue up finger crack then up leftwards to top.

Start as for the Black Flash to ledge. Step left to follow right trending flake system to DBB. It will get its own direct start.

A right hand start to GGHB to roof, then up to shared anchors. Thin wall climbing past 2 bolts, easier if you're tall!

Climb the Sunlit Plains through the roof, then blast up the groove, where sunlit plains moves right. Good protection in the RH crack and an airy undercling left at the roof to belay off cams on the arete. Double ropes helpful.

The large corner forming the left boundary of the main overhang. After the initial wide hands section, step right to climb the wall (protected by cams in horizontals ), before regaining the corner above ferns. Many large cams (to #9) with mandatory #4 Camalot.