Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
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Sa 19. Okt 2013 - Skyline Areas | ||||||
Castle Rock Falls | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Falls (Waterfall Route) | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fun direct start. A bit run-out. Worth taking some natural protection. Fun and long climb.
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Sa 19. Okt 2013 - Skyline Areas | ||||||
Indian Rock Area Indian Rock Northeast Face | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Blowing Bubbles | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 26. Jan 2013 - La Huasteca | ||||||
Zona Extrema | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Soldaditos | 40m | ||||
We did this one (maybe) and two other 5.9ishes, but can't find any info...
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Sa 26. Jan 2013 - La Huasteca | ||||||
Cazuelas | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Veinte Años Despues | 30m, 12 | ||||
It felt a bit harder than 5.9. My brother said it was more like 5.10b... Either way, really nice and fun climb.
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Sa 12. Jan 2013 - Peña de Bernal | ||||||
La Peña (single & multipitch) South Wall (Bernalina Wall) Sunshine Wall | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★★ Filo Suroeste | 280m, 16 | ||||
Fr 11. Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Circo | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Titerotes | 23m, 8 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Cirque du Soleil | 27m, 8 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ La Gallina de Dos Cabezas | 28m, 9 | ||||
Fr 11. Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Huevo Ay Nanita | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ El Hombre del Costal | 17m, 9 | ||||
I fell after the crux, a bolt before the anchor on the cruisy section. I thought it was a good place to have a no hands rest... good idea until a foothold broke and had a nice and unexpected fall. I didn't have time to go for the redpoint, with so many more routes to try in Jilotepec.
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Fr 11. Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Pilar | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Petaca | 8m, 3 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Tin-Tán (Tin-Tan) | 10m, 5 | ||||
Fr 11. Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Poste | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Papas Fritas | 27m, 10 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ A Prueba de Tontos | 10m, 5 | ||||
Do 10. Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
Comité de Bienvenida | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ La Prima de Nancy | 14m, 9 | ||||
Mi 9. Jan 2013 - El Chico | ||||||
Las Ventanas La Botella | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ruta Noreste | 18m | ||||
Great, great climbing, in a great, great location, with phenomenal views
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5.8 | ★ Ruta Noroeste | 18m | ||||
Better than ruta noreste.
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Mo 7. Jan 2013 - La UNAM | ||||||
La Escuelita | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ El Techito | 8m, 3 | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Valiente | 8m, 2 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Luna Llena | 8m, 3 | ||||
Mi 22. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Now I really need a break. No more climbing for me for two weeks (or more?). Need a good rest before the Petzl Roctrip
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Last day in Tonsai. It was supposed to be a rest day, but... Last chance, last try, dogged it badly, but got all of the moves
This will certainly be a project for a future trip. Hope my hands are better by then
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Kept trying and my fingers were peeling in exactly the spots I didn't tape.
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Worthless attempt. I was feeling so weak.
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Di 21. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Cobra Wall | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Snake Whisky | 26m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
Jug, jug, jug, jug, jug, where's the jug? oh jug, oooh is this the anchor? Lower Pe, Thanks!
Nice fun climb. Good warm-up. Unfortunately we couldn't go to Cobra Venom that day |
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Di 21. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
6c | ★★ Viking in Heat (Vikings in Heat) | 20m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Warm-up (again) for Tidal Wave
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Two more attempts today. I know all the moves to the fourth draw, but I'm feeling weak today. No further progress. I don't think I'll get it since it's likely I won't climb there tomorrow
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 20. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
6c | ★★ Viking in Heat (Vikings in Heat) | 20m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Warm-up for Tidal Wave
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great progress, all the move to the fourth draw.
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This was more a 'mental' attempt. I went back in the afternoon, but found no belayer. I did it in my mind and kept falling after the fourth draw, got all of the other moves tho.
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Three days to go and I got great progress. Two more attempts.
Got the move to the second draw. Couldn't get the pocket, but I clipped. Kept moving and missed the heel hook for the fourth one. |
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So 19. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Climbed with Cari at Tidal Wave. Got new Beta for the second draw. Thanks babe, that outer flag really helped.
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Do 16. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Hann's last day. Tried this again!!!
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Do 16. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Aid climbed this, just a bit of help of the dogbone to get jug after the crux.
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Mi 15. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This time I skipped a move and climbed to the third bolt. I was too tired after climbing all day to keep going.
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7a | ★★ Babes in Thailand | 12m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Not too far. I just got the second bolt. I'll try it again
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Mi 15. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Eagle Wall Main Face | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Where Eagles Don't Dare | 30m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great climb. Recommended by Marcelo.
I love the slab at the start, but freaked out a bit on the overhang. Well done for Pe that smashed this, being it's hardest onsight to date.
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Mi 15. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil | 15m, 6 | ||||
I still can't get the crux move. Had to clean from Longes Feschtl
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6b+ | ★ Longes Feschtl | 18m, 6 | ||||
I screw up the sequence at the crux.
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Di 14. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
6b | ★★ Cowabungalow | 25m, 7 | ★ Gut | |||
Nice warm-up to start getting pumped.
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6c | ★★ Viking in Heat (Vikings in Heat) | 20m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Really nice moves in the overhand. I did lots of Shyamaladas with heel hooks and drop knees.
I had to take an unnecessary rest because I was getting pumped. I should've just kept going for the onsight.
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7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Still working. I kinda got the move to the second clip.
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Mo 13. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Monkey World | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Big Wave (Big Wave p1 / The Beauty & The Beast p1) | 110m, 33 | Durchschnitt | |||
Great idea to do Big Wave after Humanlity. We did it on a big group with Pe, ShiHui and Hann. Great fun and some nice climbing.
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6b | ★★ Big Wave (Big Wave p2) | 110m, 33 | ||||
6b | ★★ Big Wave (Big Wave p3) | 110m, 33 | ||||
Great view, I can see my bathroom at Mambo.
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6b | ★★ Big Wave (Big Wave p4) | 110m, 33 | ||||
My favourite pitch. Nice finish. Avoid the intermediate belay station, go directly for the last and don't use it for abseil either if you have a 60 metre to directly to the top of p3.
Hann lost his camera in one of the abseils and then dropped a show. Then we were attacked by mosquitoes and had to run for a beer.
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Mo 13. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This is a Tonsai-classic. Led p1 and 3. Hann led 2 and 4. Nice and fun crux. Chimney, chimney! Hann's bag was attacked by some cheeky monkeys which put up a good show for everyone at freedom.
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Sa 11. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
7b+ 7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Amazing climb, although I didn't get too far. I clipped the first one and couldn't get good feet to move to the pocket before the first tufa to clip the second one. I'll keep trying.
The quickdraws were there so it was easy to try and bail.
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Sa 11. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Barato, Barato P1 | 15m, 6 | Durchschnitt | |||
We thought it was going to be an easy warm-up. Before the first tufa I moved right to a sling and ended up in the anchor of 'Breezes...' traversing through 'Sorry..' (7a+). I traversed back to my anchor. Hann started p2 trying to avoid the 7a+ variant on the left, so he went a bit right and ended on 'Sorry...'. We should've gone straight up. This climbing didn't have a proper belay station, so let's say we probably looked a bit more than friendly from the ground. Nice moves at the end.
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Sa 11. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
7a 6c | ★★ Good Medicine | 23m, 7 | ||||
A lady asked us if her daughter could top rope this before 'just to warm-up before she jumps into something harder'. It was good to see a ~14 year old show us how to do it properly.
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7a 6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Steep with lots of big moves and long falls. I got it clean until one hold before clipping the anchor. Dam it!
Everyone at Mama's was talking about this climb during the nights before our attempt. I think the hype fade away (for now).
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Sa 11. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Great warm-up once you know the moves.
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Fr 10. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
There is certainly a lot of hype about this climb and our first day there wasn’t the exception. We were walking and people were just stopping us at Dum's Kitchen in the beach and asking 'are you going to Missing Snow'. Yes, we're indeed. Wow that's a great climb they said. Yes Shyamal recommended it. Oh! Shyamal will certainly heel hook it..... (Read More: http://anotepad.com/notes/2690775)
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Fr 10. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
6b 6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz (Schlingel Max) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This time clean. It's really easy once you know the moves (as most climbs)
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6c | ★ No Name | 15m, 5 | ||||
A bit tiring at the start... the next is nice and easy.
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6a 6b | ★ Schlingel Max (Schlingal Moritz) | 15m, 6 | Schrott | |||
This time clean. It's really easy once you know the moves (as most climbs)
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Fr 10. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
6c 6c+ | ★★ Fire Starter | 16m, 7 | ||||
It was getting dark and I feel bad when climbing on steel bolts
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6a+ | ★★ For Hega | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Finished in the dark!!!
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6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Again. This time topbelayed by Hann
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Mi 8. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
6a 6b | ★ Schlingel Max (Schlingal Moritz) | 15m, 6 | Schrott | |||
I struggled at the crux. I was a bit tired. I think this is crap, Pe agrees, but Jaclyn actually liked it.
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6b 6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz (Schlingel Max) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I struggled at the crux, it was a bit confusing.
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Mi 8. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Monkey World | ||||||
6b | ★★ The Beauty & the Beast (Beauty & The Beast p3) | 85m, 28 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Loved this pitch!!! Nice moves, nice sequence.
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6a+ 6b | ★★ Big Wave (Big Wave p1 / The Beauty & The Beast p1) | 110m, 33 | Durchschnitt | |||
6a+ 6b | ★★ The Beauty & the Beast (Beauty & The Beast p2) | 85m, 28 | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 6. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
6a | ★ Caroline's Last Day P1 | 22m, 9 | ||||
hard for the grade I think.
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6b | ★ Wacky Weed | 23m, 8 | ★ Gut | |||
6a+ | ★★ Banana Hammock | 25m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Hard for the grade.
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So 5. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Eagle Wall Left Side | ||||||
6a | ★★ Spiderman | 32m, 17 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice climb
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6b+ | ★★ Alta Ruta | 30m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
Nice recommendation from MOC. Nice and pumpy.
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5c 5c+ | ★ Dead Spanish Bolts | 23m, 9 | ||||
Sa 4. Aug 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias (White Hot Hernia) | 16m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
It's easy once you know the sequence on the crux, although a bit balancy. I got different beta from other climbers, so there're a few ways to do it.
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6a+ | ★★ For Helga (For Hega) - mit Pe | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Super. Certainly one of my favorite climbs in Tonsai
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6b | ★★ Boobtube | 30m, 12 | ★ Gut | |||
Nice. Really easy for the grade. More like a 6a
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6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube - mit Pe | 25m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Chimney, chimney!!! (again)
This time topbelayed by Pe
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6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias (White Hot Hernia) | 16m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Had a nice fall on the crux. It's good to know that steel bolt still can hold me
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Do 2. Aug 2012 - Railay | ||||||
Muay Thai | ||||||
6b+ 6b | ★ Alone | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Clean this time!!!
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5a 5 | ★ Tamada | 10m, 4 | Durchschnitt | |||
Cleaned it
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6a | ★ Hello Christine | 17m, 8 | ★ Gut | |||
To clean it
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Do 2. Aug 2012 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
6b | ★★ Short and Savage | 8m, 2 | ||||
I couldn't figure the sequence, might try this again.
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6a | ★★ Ramazon | 24m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
6b |
★★ Massage Secrets
1
2
3
| 37m, 13 | ||||
Led the three pitches all the way from the ground. Had to abseil to the first belay station. The rope wasn't long enough. The last pitch is actually not too bad as the guide says
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Mi 1. Aug 2012 - Railay | ||||||
Muay Thai | ||||||
6b | ★★ Bad Boy | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Finally ticked this one. Loved slapping the tufa at the end.
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Mi 1. Aug 2012 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Make a Way | 27m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I freaked out at the end and grabbed the anchor!!!
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Di 31. Jul 2012 - Railay | ||||||
Escher World | ||||||
6b | ★★ Humming Song (Left Variation) | 15m, 6 | ||||
This time with the direct start from the cave
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6b | ★★ Humming Song | 15m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
5a 5 | ★ Short and Easy | 13m, 4 | ||||
6b | ★ Mei Rue Arei | 16m, 5 | ||||
Di 24. Jul 2012 - Railay | ||||||
Phra-Nang Beach | ||||||
6c+ | ★ Princess Eyes | 8m, 4 | ||||
Fr 20. Jul 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Monkey World | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Big Wave (Big Wave p1 / The Beauty & The Beast p1) | 110m, 33 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Only first pitch now. We'll try again at a better time.
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Fr 20. Jul 2012 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke | 17m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice recommendation from Shyamal. Techie and pumpy in sections. Nice start. The slings are well placed to reduce rope drag
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6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke | 17m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 19. Jul 2012 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
5a 5 | ★ King Cobra | 13m, 5 | Durchschnitt | |||
Just to clean it
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Do 19. Jul 2012 - Railay | ||||||
Phra-Nang Beach | ||||||
6c+ | ★ Princess Eyes | 8m, 4 | ||||
5a |
★ Back To Mani (Money Maker 5 P1)
1
| 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Chimney! Chimney!
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Mo 16. Jul 2012 - Railay | ||||||
Escher World | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Best Route in Minnesota | 25m, 14 | ||||
Struggled at the start a few times.
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6c | ★★★ Best Route in Minnesota | 25m, 14 | ||||
Fell again a few times
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6c | ★★★ Best Route in Minnesota | 25m, 14 | ||||
Awesome line. Waiting for Shyamal.
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Mo 16. Jul 2012 - Railay | ||||||
Phra-Nang Beach | ||||||
6c | ★ Little Shit | 8m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Failed!
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6c | ★ Little Shit | 8m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Failed!
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6c | ★ Little Shit | 8m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Failed!
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