Ascensions dans Australie comme Greenpoint

Beautiful route but over 50ish 26 I already send this one I reckon it s harder. I used a black diamond offset.4/.5 instead using the bolt.

All done on gear, bolts must be for cleaning purposes only.

Hehe

Wow cannot believe this one. Very proud of this ascent. A near onsight grovel and Tom's words of encouragement meant we came back to it after lunch. Despite the already open wounds on my back, I had to try. Not sure about this 'sport climbing crux' business. It's offwidth all the way for me. Fyi one bolt anchor. And let's get a quick shoutout to Merlin.

Chop the bolts, 1x blue tote, 2x yellow tote

Ground-Up Onsight of an (at the time) unclimbed line. Used a #0.5 + #0.75 in the break below the traverse line; #0.2 (Black Totem) after sticking the first hard moves up the detached flake; and a #1 in a horizontal break above the crux.

Made it onto the slab (above the crux) before it was too wet even to manage even mere gr18 slabbing. Piked out from there, rather than continuing on the true line.

Led on Trad gear. RPs, small cams mostly. Ballnuts very handy. Not sure I'd recommend it.

Been wanting to do this on gear for ages... super fun and good placements where you want them.

Chop the bolts! Goes better on gear.

The big #8 Merlin cam could have been made just for this climb. I backed it up with a big bro and used a #2 at the top but could of just done it bumping that 1 cam. Felt 3 grades easier than when I tried it a few weeks ago. The dream of greenpointing these big cracks has begun. Watch the bumping action in 15x speed here .

ringing in the new year with merlin and heel-toe-Tom - wouldn't have it any other way

Forgot the no.4 cam 😱😱😱

stoked on this! Gear is all great and abundant! Spooky off the deck until the tree stump of destiny. Then: [cue music] JAMB YR WAY TO THE HEARTS OF MILLIONS

Good gear and nice climbing, almost a shame it's got the bolts but i guess that means it get the traffic it deserves.

Great jams down low, love plugging cams.

A must

My first ever green point and trad 20 (although not entirely sure this would be a grade 20 in trad world). At least leading it on gear is less run out, loads of good fun.

Climbs nicely on gear. Great jams at the start.

yay got it! way more offwidth than i remembered, which may be required for the greenpoint bc there is no way you are placing gear in that crack while laybacking? not bc thats hard, which it is, but i found the gear to be WAAAAY in the back

It goes on gear pretty easily, bomber cams in big slot abt 5-6 metres off the deck. boulder pads are a good idea.

Goes on gear the whole way with an extra star, another Sydney trad gem. Save big gear for the top - I used BD #s 5 and 6 to protect the top flaring chimney. The direct finish to Vitez is the most obvious line in this sea of contrived mixed routes.

Practice run to find gear for the top of the FFA. New route for Brooyar incoming 😉

Ground up with the gear lol. Had to downclimb from top cause gear was fiddly, but got there in the end. One bang.

Some nice hex placements.

It goes on gear with reasonable protection! Pretty fun plugging all those horizontal breaks! Totes felt harder though, even though I knew what to do!

Got to use my big green cam for the Greenpoint. And my big purple cam for the purple point.

Doing the whole thing in Trad works well if you are ok running it out a little bit up the edge of the cave. Extension up top was fun. Until my trademark rope drag kicked in and my knot got caught on the lip and I flipped about like a tranquilised seal on the top out.

Pretty cool little jam crack! Next time in one go 🤞

Amazing climb! You can do it all in one pitch and easily walk off the top from the chains. I used a full double rack, save a 2 & 3 for the second pitch.

Oof, what a lovely climb!

Led cleanly on gear

Looked like a trad line from the ground, and after having a lap using the bolts I decided there was enough gear placements to give it a go. Some of the placements are in dirty and questionable rock, but there are enough of them to keep things sane.

It climbs quite well as a trad route, and will continue to get better as the rock cleans up.

The route that keeps on giving.

Quite fun as a trad lead.

i maybe climb this every time? and for good reason

Rock quality was ok for gear. It was fun doing leading it on trad gear.