Ascensions dans The Noisy Place

tricky balancy crux, morelike 15+!

Red lichen with 1 carrot at 5m - extreme lower moves with 2 rests, a shoulder-stretching pocket haul off a gritty foot sloper finishing with two appalling belly and chest-high mantles. Probably exited via Gomorrah, or was already in it.

balancy crux

Grey dry lichen with carrots at 4 & 6m, OK start ending in perplexing kneebar into high reach so piked off right.

is harder than it looks

More 19 than 17, like The Prow at Cosmic, only weirder, with sketchy move at last bolt balanced on arete.

good pro good crack shit grovel thru bush to find anchors!

Cool climb, nice hands and then a bit awkward in the wide section. Shame it isn't longer!

Ok wide hands at top ( for me)

Repeat, but technically I've never led this before. Downclimbing is a solid alternative to walking off lol.

Filthy and average.

Funny how climbing in a beanie, thermal, fleece and puffy when it's 6 degrees with a brisk breeze sets the mind on warmer things. Like hot buttered rum, and pint mugs of mulled wine before a roaring log fire. In the old Hartley schoolhouse, for example, the interior scene of which began to appear with remarkable clarity. In fact I could hear the exact tones of Peter Martland (who told me he could have purchased said building for a paltry sum in the 80s): "Stop freezing your arse off and come on down Leper, you old dog, all the usual suspects are here." And there there were, Crunch, Penney and Sebco, in various states of relaxation, with gravelly old Leonard singing "Who By Fire" in the background to accompany the progressive immolation of giant logs in the hearth. But no doubt had I arrived the old 'co would have been rendered comatose by an excess of the fruits of his amateur horticulture and substantial doses of Inner Circle OP rum, Penney aled on Sheaf Stout, and Crunch ridden home to the heartfires on his Ducati.

Tried to layback at speed and slipped off ... blame the conditions, and coefficient of Science Friction below 10° if you will. Or not.

Differences from the crack 3m right: lower angle, wider, corner, wall holds ... all good reasons for 8 fewer grades

Tried the pure layback and gassed out on last two moves. Blame the next door crack, not Science Friction.

Came to practise doing it in a froq in my customised activewear, which proved most successful #doitinafroq

Feet are clear, so no need to adjust hemline #doitinafroq

Mossy

neat, slimy

Repeat: prev. Oct and Nov 2004. Tough finger crack.

2 attempts putting gear in. Will try again soon! great finger locks.

with Dude

This is not a thin hands crack! It is mostly purple camalots, which are rattly fingers for me and generally desperate.

Only just got this, its hard! Awesome rattly fingers splitter.

Great splitter but very short. Takes lots of small purple BD cams

Hard rattle fingers. First attempt thwarted by pain/ ferns and ineptitude but got to top placing gear, a bit unclear how to get through the blank overlap in the middle. Did second go after taping index finger both hands and trying harder

Sustained ring locks with footholds disappearing at the crux. Wear your thinnest crack shoes so your can get something in the crack at the crux. Failed on the onsight but was able to get it on top rope. Next time...

Really cool, I hadn't really finger locked before so was good to figure it out

More perfect ringlocks in 15m than the rest of the blueys, with one all-in there crux move. Taped knuckles, comfy shoes, and 0.5s.

Crux seemed to defy logic

Top rope magic unlocked the crux sequence