Voies dans The Chimney Pots

No name or grade and very vague. Sort this out if you wish : Some route info that needs sorting : No route name or grade. On the first buttress you hit walking to Catwalk there is a wide chimney high up on the left that can be seen from the car park. 1. & 2. Meander up any way you like for 80m to belay at the base of this chimney. I would give it stars if it wasn’t for the first two pitches - you can make them interesting though as there are lots of little overlaps, which do not need to be avoided. 3. 35m (Crux) Bridge the chimney (taking one wall or the other when needed) to the top, which is really quite dry and clean. Take plenty of slings to wrap around plates for protection. This brings you to the perfect view of Catwalk - which is what we thought we set off on !!! Scramble off the back to the left - you can cut down the walk by rapping from trees on the way down. Louise Doig, Glen Buchanan. (alt) January 1999

Twin Chimneys Historically interesting but of no climbing values except as an access and escape route. Scramble up the broad, tree-filled gully 63 metres left of Catwalk to a cave. The passageway on the right leads to a hole in the main face, the Gallery Window. This is the route taken by Eric Webb in 1952.

Another big serious route. Originally finished up 'Catwalk' but this description incorporates the steep and poorly protected direct finish.

Start: Start as for Mahommed's Staircase.

1. 43m (11) Scramble up to the shallow corner and climb it until it steepns. Step right and continue up to a narrow ledge and traverse left to a large tree.

2. 46m (11) The line to a small stance.

3. 15m (11) Up to the wide ledge, traverse left and go up to the tree.

4. 28m (11) Traverse left to the First Terrace and belay.

5. 22m (14) Climb the diagonal crack to the steep, juggy wall. Climb the wall until it is possible to move right and belay at the start of a crack system on the face.

6. 40m (12) Climb the line to the terrace (this is all on pitch 3 of "Buddha's Balcony").

7. 46m (-) Climb the chimney to a juggy wall and continue to the top.

Hardly the north face of the Eiger but still a classic long, easy route. The route is much better finished up 'The Flying Dutchman' than The Exit Cracks but for now we'll leave the write-up as is.

Start: Start 30 metres left of "John The Baptist" where a short wall leads to a ramp leading up right.

1. 43m (11) Up the short wall to the ramp. Easily up the ramp to big ledge 5 metres .below the catwalk

2. 47m (1) Climb up to the catwalk and crwal and walk left for 28 metres to a corner. Continue left for another 10 metres to the base of a chimney.

3. 43m (11) Climb the chimney until it narrows then climb the wall diagonally right to the Gallery Window.

4. 15m (11) Go diagonally right along the ramp then go up, tending left to the First Terrace.

5. 43m (15) Move the belay to the right-hand of two chimney-cracks rising from the back of the terrace (The Exit Cracks). Climb the right-hans Exit Crack

6. 46m (-) Up the chimney-gully between the summit blocks.

A sensational experience in exposed, poorly protected climbing.

Start: Start from the third belay on Buddha's Balcony and walk left to the main overhang.

1. 20m (-) Walk left to the main overhang.

2. 25m (12) Move up to the next traverse line and continue traversing left to the end of the overhang. Go up a few moves to a small belay stance.

3. 40m (12) Up right for 5 metres then traverse left to a wide chimney. Climb the chimney to the terrace.

4. 46m (-) Climb the chimney to a juggy wall and continue to the top.

Start: Start in broken corner-cum-gully 90 metres right of where the track hits the cliff. This is directly below the step in the huge roofs high up and a forked gumtree 40 metres up.

1. 44m (7) Climb the corner to the large. vegetated ledge.

2. 28m (7) Climb the small buttress, tending right to a large chimney.

3. 44m (7) Move up and traverse right into the chimney. Continue up the line to a belay above some bushes.

4. 46m (7) Up the line to belay amongst the jugs.

5. 6m (-) Scramble up to the terrace. Walk to the juggy arete on the left.

6. 42m (7) Climb the arete, move right, along the ledge and up the weakness to the top.

Start: Start a 12 metres left of "The Tower Of Babel" below a shallow corner.

1. 43m (9) Scramble up to the shallow corner and follow it to a vegetated ledge.

2. 28m (9) Move up the sloping ledge to a narrow chimney. Go up the chimney to a cliff-towing belay.

3. 34m (9) Up, then step left into the wide chimney. Climb the chimney to belay next to a long, narrow ledge on the left.

4. 46m (9) Step right into the next line and continue to the terrace.

5. 40m (9) Climb the juggy arete then move right along the ledge and up the weakness to the top.

A serious finish. Start at the right-hand side of the First Terrace.

1. 22m (14 R) Climb the diagonal crack to the steep, juggy wall. Climb the wall until it is possible to move right and belay at the start of a crack system on the face.

2. 40m (12) Climb the line to the terrace (this is all on pitch 3 of "Buddha's Balcony").

3. 46m (-) Climb the chimney to a juggy wall and continue to the top.

The easiest and most enjoyable way off the First Terrace. The final pitch was added during the first ascent of "Ziggurat".

Start: Start at the left end of the First Terrace where a gully cuts deep into the cliff.

1. 10m (11) From the terrace side of the gully jump back to the main cliff and traverse left to the chimney. There's an ancient bolt somewhere here. The pitch can be done without the jump but where's the fun in that?

2. 25m (11) Up the chimney.

3. 35m (11) Continue up the chimney finishing up the left arete, facing out, to the Second Terrace.

4. 50m (12) Up skyline ridge, starting just left of roof, to summit.

A superb crack-line.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack initialled SC.

1. 25m (12) The crack to a ledge.

2. 35m (12) Continue up the diagonal line.

Start: Start at an arete 100 metres left of "Babylon", near the left edge of the main massif, 2 metres right of an orange, diagonal groove. Initialled.

1. 41m (12) Climb the arete to a shallow chimney. Go up the chimney and up the arete to the base of a wide crack.

2. 38m (12) The line to a large ledge.

3. 43m (-) Easily up the arete.

Poor rock and protection.

Start: Start below the initialled chimney 16 metres left of "The Fatted Calf".

1. 41m (12) Move up into the chimney and continue to below a pinnacle on the left.

2. 38m (12) Step across the gap and go up the line to a large ledge.

3. 43m (-) Easily up the arete as for "The Fatted Calf".

Start up the buttress facing west.

Climb the nose direct for 7 metres to a small ledge. Move through a steep section, tending right, and on to the top.

The line 8m right of Pope's Nose.

Poor protection and brittle rock.

Start: Start by scrambling 10 metres up the initial corner of "The Tower Of Babel"

1. 30m (14) Climb easily up to the crack directly above, then jam up the forked tree.

2. 45m (14) Continue up the wall, veering right to belay beneath the lower square roof.

3. 30m (14) Climb to the left of the roof, up the pleasant corner, traverse left and move up and belay (The second tree on Buddha's Wall is 10 metres to the left).

4. 10m (14) Climb up left to the crack system, then up right to gain the ledge above the line of roofs (Buddha's Balcony).

5. 30m (14) Climb the steep wall on nasty, brittle dinnerplate rock, tending first to the left and then to the right seeking protection.

6. 30m (14) Climb the wall to the tree in the cleft.

7. 45m (-) Climb up behind the tree and continue up the wall.

A disjointed and vegetated climb. Start at the base of the second buttress in from the left end, 33 metres left of Twin Chimneys. Trek up walls, along terraces and through jungle, tending rightwards to the first terrace.

Maybe someone could push it through to the second terrace without going back into the Exit Cracks. Start at the base of the left=hand Exit Crack. Climb up left to the top of the detached buttress. Step across onto the main wall and pick your way up. Eventually move back right and rejoin the left Exit Crack about 10 metres below the Second Terrace and continue up.

Some good climbing. The hard section could possibly be avoided to the right.

Start: Start below a chockstone that blocks the gully 15 metres up left of "Soma Crack"

1. 25m (21) Follow an overlap diagonally right then follow a horizontal crack right around the arete to the base of a corner. Up the corner, easily at first, then a hard thin section to a ledge on the right. Move up to the next ledge.

2. 30m (16) Move the belay left to the end of the ledge. Climb the crack on the arete with an undercut start.

Later repeated by Bede Harrington and renamed The Eye Of The Storm Climb the line just left of the right arete, moving onto the arete when the crack runs out.

The first climb up the impressive face right of "John The Baptist". The crux pitch is difficult to protect and has friable rock. It is possible that the final two pitches were climbedearlier by Colin Abbott and Richard Morris in Easter 1987 but they may have been on the finish of "Buddha's Wall" instead.

Start: There is an orange and grey corner 63 metres left of "Buddha's Wall". Start immediately right of the corner, below a chimney.

1. 40m (-) Climb up to a right-leading chimney and climb it to a ledge at its top. Go up the groove leading up from the ledge to belay at the long ledge-slot (start of the "Catwalk" traverse.

2. 25m (-) Climb the giant flake above then up a juggy groove to a stance on a "fin".

3. 45m (-) Go up right into the main line and follow it to the top of the huge block on the First Terrace.

4. -m (-) Clamber down into the chasm behind the block to the foot of the line of weakness up the wall behind. This is just left of the centre of the block and 30-50 metres right of the Exit Cracks.

5. 15m (-) The line to an alcove.

6. 35m (17) Up the line above (difficult protection, friable rock) to grassy ledges level with Second Terrace. Scramble off left (roped) to Second Terrace and escape left.

Start just left of 'Moments Of Doubt'. Follow the line up and left to the arete and easy ground. Watch out for loose blocks. Repeated by Campbell Mercer and renamed Storm Rising.

Long and wandering. Might be a better climb if the first two pitches were skipped.

Start: Start as for "Temple Of Doom"

1. 45m (14) Straight up to right-leading chimney and follow it to its top (as for "Temple Of Doom"). When the line forks, take the right-hand line and go up and a little right to the major horizontal break.

2. 45m (-) Go left to join "Catwalk" just before the crawl. Follow the break leftwards until below the chimney of "catwalk"'s 4th pitch.

3. 45m (14) Climb up into a corner a few metres left of "Catwalk"'s chimney. Follow the corner until it turns into a crack that curves left to the arete. Follow the arete to a ledge.

4. 25m (14) Up the arete to the First Terrace and belay. Scramble to the base of the Exit Cracks.

5. 48m (17) The left-hand Exit Crack is dirty and often wet.

6. 50m (14) Climb the wall and blunt arete 8 metres right of the gully in the summit block.

A good pitch with some loose rock. The second is strongly advised to wear a helmet. Take care with rope-drag.

Start: Start at the foot of the third pitch chimney of "Catwalk".

An interesting climb and the hardest climb on the cliff for many years. Originally the climb finished up "Catwalk" but it is convenient to leave it at the Gallery Window.

Start: Start at the initialled orange and grey corner just left of "Temple Of Doom", 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff.

1. 30m (15) Climb the corner, with a diversion onto the mossy left wall at 10 metres.

2. 38m (-) Climb up to the catwalk and grovel 28 metres left to a major corner.

3. 38m (15) Either climb the corner direct or start up the short line 3 metres right of the corner. Follow the line to the Gallery Window.

An impressive, very bold climb that had been looked at (from the track) by several parties.

Start: Start just left of "Catwalk" by a large eucalypt below the looming corner.

1. 25m (23) Easily to the roof. From the rest above the roof the difficulties are continuous and protection is difficult to arrange.

2. 30m (25) Up the line to the water-washed bulge. Step right and surmount the bulge then go up right to runners. Head back across left and up to the corner which leads to the terrace.

Sustained climbing up the middle of the inspiring wall above the "Catwalk" traverse; although the abundance of lichen detracts from what is otherwise excellent rock.

Start 5 metres right of the third pitch corner of "John The Baptist". Most easily reached by scrambling 60m up Twin Chimneys and traversing in.

NB: There's numerous ways you could climb this wall; but it's best to trend R across mossy wall aiming for short orange crack/flake, then over that to the belay. 2nd Pitch straight up, trending slightly L. Leave large cams behind, and bring lots of nuts.

1. 35m (17) Climb the wall, veering a few metres right at 30 metres to a stance.

2. 45m (17) Veer up slightly right, then straight up to finish directly and steeply to the First Terrace.

Up crack to ledge, then up flake and wall above on flakey holds.

Start: The obvious crackline on the west-facing wall 3 metres right of 'Moments Of Doubt'

Poor rock and protection, uncertain location and appalling name.

Likely starts about 70m downhill/right of the Popes Nose buttress

Start: Shallow corner 30 metres right of track to summit by east side.

1. 20m (17) Left to chimney.

2. 30m (17) Left wall of chimney.

Companion to "Soma Crack", curving diagonally right across that climb.

Start midway between "No Bagwans" and "Soma Crack"

1. 25m (15) Prominent diagonal line finishing up wall left of "Soma Crack".

2. 35m (15) Steeply up the centre of the wall right of "Soma Crack".

Interesting, fairly direct route with little in the way of traverses or terrace-bashing.

Start: Start 50 metres up from view-point on the walking track at base of second buttress from left (just left of "Babylon"

1. 40m (13) Overhang to start then up buttress. Pass leaning arete/pillar to ledge above (take care of big blocks as you step onto ledge).

2. 40m (13) Up and right a bit to line that leads to ledge. Climb big wall above, keeping 2-3 metres right of arete.

3. 40m (-) On up to top of buttress, jump across gap and climb easily to First Terrace.

4. 10m (-) Jump and traverse left as for "The Flying Dutchman".

5. 35m (-) Up the chimney of "The Flying Dutchman".

6. 35m (-) Continue up the chimney finishing up the left arete, facing out, to the Second Terrace.

7. 50m (12) Up skyline ridge, starting just left of roof, to summit.

Start below the final pitch of Catwalk.

Catwalk Variant Finish 40m 17 This avoids the chimney filled with three inches thick moss and the scrambling through the shrub filled gully, which would otherwise comprise the last two pitches of Catwalk. 6.a as per Variant in VRG. 7.a 40m Sidle left across chimney gully and a further 10m to belay in a scooped out ledge. Tackle the overhang on huge jugs at the obvious weakness in the centre of the scoop. Step right and follow vertical dyke/flake system and then follow flakes to the top, veering slightly left as you go.

Start: Start at the crack, initialled SC.

1. 70m (14) Up the crack to the ledge of the right.

2. 17m (14) Climb the corner on the right to a large ledge.

3. 43m (-) Finish easily up the arete.

Arete 2m right of "Chosen One". Start either side of the arete and blast straight up.

Start/belay from the raised platform 3m right of the "Bishop Prick" arete. Up juggy moves past a flake way up high. Top out in the bushes.

Start 2m right of "Cardinal's Ear". Straight through the rooflet to top out in the bushes.

The obvious short crack on the South face of the upper block (above 'Stela'), finishing over the bulge.

Stela: Carved slab often found adjacent to the temple entrance.

On the South face of the obvious lower block, visible from the tourist track. Short crack to steep moves through the overhang, then up the intermittent cracks and pockets above.

Descend via short scramble.