Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V11 | |||||
Summit Boulders Invisible Area | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Invisible Passports Sit
Sit start low on steep pillar with hard compression, move up and out via burly climbing. Might be easier, grade needs confirming FA: James Trainer | 3m | |||
Summit Boulders Asylum Years Area | |||||
V11 | ★★ Le Grand Pillier
Sit start the right hand arete of the pillar, hard moves off ground follow arete to mantle top. | ||||
V10 | |||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Bad Dreams Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★ Rauls Bad Dreams
Hang start on good holds head up and left via burly compression moves. Chockstone is out. FA: Ollie Miller, 2022 | ||||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Passchendale | |||||
V10 | ★★ Time Flies
The very slopey bulge, head up and right. | 4m | |||
31 | |||||
Neika Blade Runner buttress | |||||
31 | ★★★ Future Shock
Start at offwidth/chimney and head steeply right FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2006 | 8m | |||
Sphinx Rock Main face | |||||
31 | ★★ Spaced Out
Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very sustained piece of climbing. FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2005 | 15m | |||
V9 | |||||
Sphinx Rock Nerm's Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★ The Vampire Song
A fun linkup. Start as for Blood Letting then reverse The Turd Burglar and finish up Yoshimi. FA: Joe Schwarz | ||||
Summit Boulders Invisible Area | |||||
V9 | Planned Aspiration
Sit start the double crack feature of the hanging sword, climb out and up the sword. | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ Invisible Passports
Start low on steep pillar with a high heel cam, move up and out via burly climbing. It was originally climbed without the heel at V11. FA: James Trainer | 3m | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost block | |||||
V9 | ★★ Right arete
SDS the right hand arete. Stand start is ~V3 | 3m | |||
30 | |||||
Sphinx Rock Main face | |||||
30 | ★★ Space Invader
Starts as for Rambo but heads direct. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | 12m | |||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | |||||
30 | ★★ Freedom
Probably the hardest route on the Pipes and a magnificent line, taking the arête and wall to the R of of Icarus. Access via a 30m abseil from rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column, to the Middle Battlement (top of pitch 2 of Battlements). A reachy and powerful boulder problem at half-height offers some amazing moves in an outrageous position. A finger-sized cam can be handy to protect the post crux section. FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2010 | 25m | |||
V8 | |||||
Sphinx Rock Sphinx's Nose | |||||
V8 | Al's Traverse
Can't remember too many details of this. It started at Unremembered or Crimpfest and continued to the top out right. | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Waterguns Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Waterguns
Up face via thin sidepull crimp FA: Aaron Galligan, 2022 | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land April Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★ The Soccer Ball
Sit start compressing face, make a big move up then mantle. FA: Joe Schwarz, 2024 | ||||
Summit Boulders Fence area | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Sugarlumps
This problem is as exposed as it looks. Well, you won't fall to Hobart, but there is a several meter drop onto some ugly rocks. FA: J. Trainer, 2010 | ||||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost block | |||||
V8 | ★★ Left arete
SDS the left hand arete | 3m | |||
V6 - 8 | |||||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders The Pinnacles | |||||
V6 - 8 | ★★★ Restless Ambition
Sit start the front of the left hand pinnacle is a very hard looking 30 degree overhanging finger crack. Hard to grade V6-V9? FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2017 | 5m | |||
29 | |||||
Neika Kick Start Area | |||||
29 | ★★ kickstart
Hard line up the good looking arete, great boulder problem. FA: garry phillips | 15m, 7 | |||
Neika Blade Runner buttress | |||||
29 | ★★★ Blubber Boy
Awesome final section. As for Blade Runner but keep heading leftwards. FA: G.Phillips, 2006 | 15m | |||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | |||||
29 | ★★★ Priapism
Climbs the arête left of Slap Dancer. Reach dependant compression moves to barn door hell. Brilliant! FA: G. Phillips & Mar 2011, 2011 | 10m, 6 | |||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | |||||
29 | ★★★ Pleasant Screams Direct
One of the best climbs on the pipes. Climb Pleasant Screams to just below the midway anchor then follow the line of bolts to the top in one mega pitch. Avoid moving into After Midnight and Brown Madonna, not as contrived as it sounds. FA: S. Parsons, 2007 | 50m | |||
28 | |||||
Neika Blade Runner buttress | |||||
28 | ★★ Blade Runner
Starts up New C4's to the last bolt then traverses L along a break on tiny holds to a hard boulder problem finish. FA: G.Phillips, 2006 | 15m | |||
Sphinx Rock Main face | |||||
28 | ★ Lean Mean Fighting Machine Direct
Direct start to Lean Mean Fighting Machine FA: G. Phillips, 2005 | 15m | |||
28 | ★★ Lean Mean Fighting Machine
A desperate endeavour 10m R of Fear Factory. Crank through the bulging wall to a rest in the corner. Traverse R along the break and then up via a desperate boulder problem finish. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | 15m | |||
28 | ★★ Calm Before The Storm
Located 2m R of Ignition Sequence Start. Scramble up the slab and crank through the bulge and then move R to lower from the chains of Rambo. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | 15m | |||
28 | ★★ Scandal Savage
Climbs the line of U bolts up the face then through the large 7m roof to a dbb 2 meters around the lip of roof. Nice technical face, then a tough 4 move boulder problem getting into the roof jugs then crank through to the dbb. Back jump to clean, dont lower off the bolts over the lip as there is lots of rope drag. FA: adam bogus, 3 Avr 2016 | 15m, 10 | |||
Lost World Area Lost World | |||||
28 | ★★ Gargamell
Bolted arête right of Lost Wanderer. Sustained and powerful. FA: Al Williams, 2004 | 25m | |||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★★ Mira Mira
The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm. Brilliant steep bouldery moves lead to easier arete climbing before joining Vanity. All bolts apart from an optional 0.3 cam on the face traverse of Vanity at mid height. FA: N. Perndt, 2013 | 35m | |||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | |||||
28 | ★★★ The Brush Tail Extension
Two pitch extension of 'Tularaemia' adds 30m of additional climbing and increases the grade. 3 15m 27, 8 bolts 4 15m 28, 8 bolts | 30m, 2, 16 | |||
V7 | |||||
Sphinx Rock Nerm's Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Blood Letting
Do the first move of Blood Stains then head right into the V0 via some powerful moves. FA: Joe Schwarz | ||||
Sphinx Rock Sphinx's Nose | |||||
V7 | ★ Hushed by an Angel
Long low traverse along the edge, under the nose and up and out the entrance. Named after the Philtrum. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 8m | |||
The Springs Symbiosis Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Three-horned bird
Start in back of cave on two flat sidepulls. Move up through small v-slot to a tricky mantle. Named after the three-horned bird orchid's growing on the adjacent boulder. FA: Alex Hartshorne | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Bad Dreams Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★ Bowling Alley
Stand start on far left of boulder and traverse right on slopers to finish up Rauls Bad Dreams FA: Riley Thurstans, 2023 | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Spannend Boulder | |||||
V7 | Spannend
Sit start on obvious pinch and low horizontal crack. Head up and right. FA: Raul Schwarz, 2022 | ||||
Summit Boulders Snowflakes Area | |||||
V7 | ★ Kaiserschmarrn
Start on middle of big sloper, punch straight up into roof and top out as for Pancakes FA: Mike Hitchcock | 7m | |||
V6/7 | |||||
Summit Boulders Fence area | |||||
V6/7 | ★★ V6
"Either a two star v6 or a one star v7." Sit start, up the face on unlikely looking holds which all seem to face the wrong direction. FA: Tommy Krauss, 10 Fév 2019 | 5m | |||
27 | |||||
Sphinx Rock Main face | |||||
27 | ★ Storm Trooper
Start as for Calm Before the Storm but go direct through the roof and to the chains of Ignition Sequence Start. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | ||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | |||||
27 | ★ The Fifth Elephant
The bolted blunt arête starting just right of Completion Backwards Principle. Wanders back and forth via. 3 distinct boulder problems. Possibly 28. FA: A. Williams, 2001 | 25m | |||
27 | ★★★ Slap Dancer
Some of the best moves on the pipes. The two north facing arêtes of Albert's Tomb. Tricky mantle to fridge hugging finish. FA: S. Edwards, 1997 | 10m, 5 | |||
The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | |||||
27 | ★★★ Shaolin
The line of bolts to the left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt. Climb the shallow corner then move right into the thin layaway seam, following this to tricky topout. | 25m | |||
The Organ Pipes University Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Kwang Hwa Lantern
| 20m | |||
27 R | |||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | |||||
27 R | ★★ Duckling
The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse. Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately. You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it. FA: Fév 2019 | 30m | |||
V6 | |||||
Sphinx Rock Nerm's Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Ganamatronix
Sit start at sidepull 2m left of the arete. Move right to the arete and climb up the steep side of the arete, moving right at the top. FA: Morgen Hosking, 2005 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Yoshimi...
Sit start off good jug just above left hand end of low rail. Straight up to pocket and sidepulls and over bulge | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ The Turd Burglar Direct
Sit start on crimps just left of Yoshimi, crank up right to good edge then continue as for Turd Burglar. FA: Joe Schwarz | ||||
The Springs Symbiosis Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Symbiosis
| 4m | |||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Himmel Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Himmel Und Erde
Sit start at back of cave, big moves lead to a tricky move to gain the lip and mantle, top out up groove. FA: Raul Schwarz | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Fish Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Fish Lips
Climbs the arete and face. Sit start with crimp in the roof and left hand on positive rail. | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Shattered Plains Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Shattered Plains
Hang start on lowest jugs, some tricky moves up the face above. FA: Lewis Traill, 2022 | ||||
Summit Boulders Asylum Years Area | |||||
V6 | ★★ Le Grande Pincèe
5 metres to the right of Le Petit Pillier is a very nice compression line. Sit start with a hand on each arete and a good left foot, strenuous from there. Stay away from the ominous hole on the left and top out straight via slightly sketchy but fun mantle directly up the lower face. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ This High To RIde
Behind pelier boulder. SDS on the chockstone on the right. Using both aretes sidepull and toehook your way up to a climatic finish. Worth bringing an extra pad to stuff in the hole. Grade is very height dependant. FA: Fraser, Oct. 2021 | 3m | |||
Summit Boulders Fence area | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Fatman
Sit start on flake in middle of block, move left and up to mantle via left arete and right sidepull above flake. Surprisingly good problem! Don't use holds to the right of left block. FA: Tommy Krauss, 2014 | 3m | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Passchendale | |||||
V6 | ★★ Passchendaele SDS
SDS to Passchendaele | 3m | |||
26 | |||||
Neika Kick Start Area | |||||
26 | ★ Sleep, Eat, Bolt, Climb, Repeat
Slightly overhanging wall R of Kickstart. 5 Bolts to lower off. Technical crux midway leading to juggier finish. FA: A. Lewis & S. Young, 2010 | 15m, 5 | |||
Neika Big Roof Buttress | |||||
26 | Cheese
| 15m | |||
26 | Chalk
| 15m | |||
Sphinx Rock Main face | |||||
26 | ★★ First Blood
Climb Fear Factory then drop down and continue traversing along lip past another five U-bolts to a rap station. FA: S. Edwards, 1997 | 20m | |||
26 | Firewire
Short and intense, starts 5m right of SSSH. Bolts through overhang. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | 8m | |||
Lost World Area Micro World | |||||
26 | ★★ Dying Breed
| 12m, 3 | |||
Lost World Area Lost World | |||||
26 | ★★ Endorphine
The bolted arête to the left of Dyazide and right of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height. FA: K. Robinson & Jan 2004., 2004 | 20m, 6 | |||
26 | ★ Carhookia
| 20m | |||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | |||||
26 | ★★ Yugi Crack
Climb the super thin crack, passing a small overlap at the bottom. No loweroffs so take a biner for the last bolt if there's not one already there. | 18m | |||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | |||||
26 | ★★★ Completion Backwards Principle
| 27m | |||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | |||||
26 | ★★ Ultrahard
| 30m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Once in a Lifetime
| 55m, 18 | |||
The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | |||||
26 | ★★ The Colour of Magic
| 25m, 7 | |||
V5 | |||||
Sphinx Rock Nerm's Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Deda
Sit start as for Yoshimi, move right across the line of pockets to the arete and finish up Ganamatronix | 8m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Turd Burglar
Sit start as for Yoshimi and move left to sidepulls then up to jugs | 4m | |||
Sphinx Rock Sphinx's Nose | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Shallow Grave
| 6m | |||
The Springs Jungle Block | |||||
V5 | Slotted
| 3m | |||
The Springs Lilo & Two Mat boulders | |||||
V5 | Penyerehan
Start in easy crack then link through into 'Adi kodrat' | 5m | |||
V5 | ★ I kneed this
Start under cave on good jugs, right slap then to slopers, technical knee bar using nubin on the right then directly up. The nice sloper hold next to the nubin is off route and probably doesn't help anyway. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Adi Kodrat
Start on good hold under bulge, move to lip hold and slopers. Transcend gravity. Stand start goes at about V3/4 | 4m | |||
The Springs Symbiosis Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Spider Pig
Start crouched, both hands on back wall of grotty cave. Undercling/jamb/layback/twist etc to come up and out of cave, across the gap, and finish up the right-hand wall. FA: CW | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Left of tree
Start under bulge left of tree. Left and up to great hold. V3 if you start with right hand above the bulge. | 3m | |||
The Springs Lookout Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Karma, dude
On the boulder below the lookout boulder. Stand start. | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Strawberry Fields Boulder | |||||
V5 | Banana Smoothie
Sit start in middle of the face, head straight up via tricky moves FA: Lewis Traill, 2022 | ||||
Summit Boulders Invisible Area | |||||
V5 | ★★ Trinamic
Sit start with feet on ramp and left hand on low sidepulls, right hand on far right slopers. Climb straight out via compression following both opposing aretes. Finish by mantling over nose. Great steep problem! | 3m | |||
Summit Boulders Sub-Pinnacle Sweet Science Area | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Body Blow
This tall boulder is approximately 20m downhill from Ringside, but is quite hard to see from above. Up the slopey rail to the top. | ||||
Summit Boulders Patient Lady | |||||
V5 | Water Amoung Sand
| 6m | |||
Summit Boulders Dildo blocks | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Dildo
Up the 45 degree overhung side of the obvious dildo. | 4m | |||
Summit Boulders Lookout Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ The Primis
Sit start on the jug, move along to and over the tip | 4m | |||
Summit Boulders Snowflakes Area | |||||
V5 | Pessimistic Optimist
FA: Raul Schwarz, 2019 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Hamburger Pie
Start left hand on low sidepull, right hand on the nice crimp rail. Then climb to the top keeping to the line of the arete. FA: David Tan, 15 Fév 2019 | 3m | |||
Summit Boulders Fence area | |||||
V5 | V5
Sit start. FA: Tommy Krauss | 3m | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Skinless | |||||
V5 | ★★ Skinless
Sitstart on rail then right around arete on slopes then up. Dont use jugs at top until the finish | 4m | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Passchendale | |||||
V5 | V5
Thin vertical cracks up face. Originally Stand (v3), now sit. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2018 | 5m | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders Highball World | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Period of Transition
The belly of the incredible, near horizontal pillar. Hang start at the back of the column using the obvious sloper on the left and right hand low on the ok slopey rail on the right. Get a heel up and climb out the column, topping out at the very end by pinching your way up the arête to gain the lip. FA: Marco D'Alessandro, Fév 2018 | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Brexit
Same start as Period of Transition, but head left and up the slopers. FA: Mike Hitchcock | 4m | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders The Pinnacles | |||||
V5 | ★★ Small Things
Start in the hollow below the left arete of The Horn. Move up to delicate moves on the arete and the top jugs. The stand start is a grade easier. | 4m | |||
25 | |||||
Sphinx Rock Main face | |||||
25 | ★★ Rambo
Uses the same start as Lean Mean Fighting Machine. However from the corner cut back hard left and finish through the steep roof on underclings. Exciting mantle awaits. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | Mr Wiggles
The prow R of Short, Sharp and Shit Hot, using natural gear. Finish as for SSSH. FA: K. Robinson, 1997 | 8m | |||
Lost World Area Lost World | |||||
25 | ★★★ Rose Pink Cadillac Direct
The way to do it. Climb via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 bolts, and the Direct Finish (25) past another bolt. DRB. | 20m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ Don't Eat Yellow Snow
Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack left of Adolf. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small cams required. FFA: M.Jackson, 1995 | 15m | |||
25 | ★★ Opioid
Short finger and laback crack below Endorphin. A couple of bouldery moves, small/medium wire protects the middle. Ends on ledge, or link into Endorphin! Possibly 24 if your tall with small fingers. FA: Alex Hartshorne, 13 Déc 2017 | 14m | |||
25 | ★★ Metal Mania
| 16m | |||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | |||||
25 | ★★★ Cascade Crack
| 27m | |||
25 | ★★ Vanity
Starting on the right side of the chasm, follow seams (wires) to bolts on face. Traverse right into (somewhat concerning) undercling flake after clipping the 3rd bolt, then blast up the right arete past 3 more bolts to the top. | 35m, 6 | |||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | |||||
25 | ★★★ Second Coming
Start up Resurrection Shuffle until you can traverse right to the finger crack. Tight finger jamming leads to the top. FA: J. Kennedy & S. Parsons, 1985 | 25m |