Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
19 |
FA
★★ Rogue Roman
![]() | 90m, 8 | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1983 | ||||
tree good pitches
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19 |
★★ Old Flat Monster
![]() | 25m, 7 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Ven 21 Juin 2024 | ||||
fa, first boulder problem on the black rock is so good and the flake joining the two routes is lovely
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22 |
FA
★ Peasant Uprising
![]() | 80m, 5 | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Dim 10 Jan 1982 | ||||
24 |
FA
★★★ Border Patrol
![]() | 25m, 5 | Kwiamble National Park | ★★ Excellent | Mer 10 Août 2022 | ||||
FFA. Great slab moves, through a Rooflet, a slab Dyno and then a nice finger crack.
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18 Difficile |
★★★ Innocence
![]() | 25m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Dim 10 Sept 2023 | ||||
fuak, I couldn't see one of the carrots and thought it was gonna be some 10m runout on tricky slab with no chalk anywhere so I bailed. Once on the ground again I could see the carrot from the side so I went up again and sent. Mega rock quality and very engaging.
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17 |
★★ Kinky Renée
![]() | 30m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Ven 21 Juin 2024 | ||||
fa, super nice, pumpy on the calves
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16 |
★★ A Dash of Loneliness
![]() | 20m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Ven 28 Juin 2024 | ||||
Did this with an alternate middle section, straight up from 4th bolt (so skipping the 5th bolt off to the right), one hard move, then number 4. Also top roped the top section which has a couple more meters of similar crimpy face moves after the two horizontals. Feels a little contrived so not sure if its worth a bolt, but is a more consistent grade all the way.
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17 |
★ Modern Electrics
![]() | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
17 |
★ Modern Electrics
![]() | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | ★ Bon | 2006 | ||||
21 |
★★ Wilde Arete
![]() | 12m, 4 | Kwiamble National Park | ★★ Excellent | Mar 3 Août 2021 | ||||
Getting used to granite slabs after a lot more frictional rock over the past few weeks
|
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17 |
★ Modern Electrics
![]() | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | ★ Bon | Dim 29 Mai 2022 | ||||
21 |
★★ Wilde Arete
![]() | 12m, 4 | Kwiamble National Park | ★★ Excellent | Mer 10 Août 2022 | ||||
Rpt to get the slab brain in gear
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20 |
★ It Pays to Belong
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||
20 |
★★ Ilean
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
17 |
FA
★ Gripping Yarns
![]() | 79m, 3 | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Sam 1 Nov. 1980 | ||||
some interesting climbing
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22 |
FA
★ Moral Decline
![]() | 20m, 3 | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | 1983 | ||||
some loose flakes
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20 |
★★ Sucking Faces
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
23 |
FA
★★ Lust Bucket
![]() | 25m, 3 | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1983 | ||||
thin moves, go for it
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20 |
★★ Sucking Faces
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | Mar 1 Mai 2001 | |||||
classic
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20 |
★★ Ilean
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★ Bon | 2006 | ||||
20 |
★ It Pays to Belong
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 2006 | ||||
21 |
FA
★★ Autofellatio
![]() | 35m, 3 | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1983 | ||||
runout at top
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20 |
★ It Pays to Belong
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
17 |
★ Yuppie
![]() | 18m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
20 |
★★ Sucking Faces
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★ Bon | Sam 20 Sept 2014 | ||||
not a fan of the bolt placements.
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19 |
★ Unknown face
![]() | 12m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★ Bon | Dim 26 Juil 2015 | ||||
Absolutely filthy climb (in the dirty sense). Got up it clean after 1) decking and 2) breaking off a useful undercling. The face climbs much cleaner now, but fairly techy.
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25 |
★★★ Picnic at Hanging Rock
![]() | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Sam 31 Oct. 2015 | ||||
Really good and a little frightening. Classic, best line on the cliff (?)
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25 |
★★★ Picnic at Hanging Rock
![]() | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Sam 30 Avr 2022 | ||||
Woooooo! Dude, absolutely classic. Bomber rock, number of different styles of climbing in the one route, crazy top out, loved it. Tell ya what I had to fight for it though, heel hook popped on the bulge crux and had to squeeze with all my might to stay on, spicy. Gear: #4, #0.75, 2x#0.5, 2x long extenders and three draws 🤙
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20 |
★★ Ilean
![]() | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Sam 25 Juin 2022 | ||||
Super good! Top roped first to suss the gear at the top, then sent on the second go!
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24 |
FA
★★ Skeeta
![]() | 20m, 3 | Kwiamble National Park | ★★ Excellent | Mer 10 Août 2022 | ||||
FFA. Dave and I had quite different beta, esp for the top. Reachy but possible.
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21 Facile |
★★ Capstone Project
![]() | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Ven 24 Nov. 2023 | ||||
Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.
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16 |
★★ Impunity
![]() | 20m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Lun 10 Juin 2024 | ||||
Quick lap showing Todd where the line went. The first bit of gear is best with a #4
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20 |
★ Roadblock
![]() | 15m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Dim 1 Avr 2001 | ||||
21 |
★ Faith
![]() | 20m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
21 |
★★ Wired World of Sport
![]() | 10m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
22 |
FA
★★ Casa Nostra
![]() | 25m, 2 | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1986 | ||||
some excelent bridging
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20 |
FA
★★ Unholy Trinity
![]() | 45m, 2 | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1985 | ||||
some excellent slab climbing
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17 |
FA
★★ Bovine
![]() | 12m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Dim 15 Mai 1994 | ||||
The last move had me pondering.
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21 |
FA
★★ Unholy Trinity
![]() | 45m, 2 | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | 1986 | ||||
I led the first pitch and Jack led the crux second pitch
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24 |
FA
★★ Heaving Falcons
![]() | 15m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Mer 1 Août 2018 | ||||
FFA. It's because of routes like this why I love trad. What a bunch of frothy sickness! Had such a good time on this route. It has a bit of everything, laybacks, jams, a roof, and and off width to boot! Felt better at the top than my last attempt. Take medium to large and extra large cams and plenty of slings to avoid rope drag. Thanks for the catch and the psych Skippy!
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24 |
★★ New Blue Dress
![]() | 10m, 2 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Dim 22 Août 2021 | ||||
23 |
★★★ Lean Cuisine
![]() | 7m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Ven 19 Août 2022 | ||||
Crux move is el desperato if you’re short. Amazing rock quality though.
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21 |
★ Poetic Justice
![]() | 10m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Ven 1 Mars 2002 | ||||
15 |
FA
★ Swinebeater
![]() | 10m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Dim 15 Mai 1994 | ||||
Nice to find this crag had been overlooked...
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23 |
FA
★★ Chocolate Barbarian
![]() | 15m, 1 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1984 | ||||
23 |
FA
★★★ Sundance
![]() | 20m, 1 | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | 1983 | ||||
The move past the bolt defeated me.
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21 |
FA
★★ Enfant Terrible
![]() | 15m, 1 | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1984 | ||||
26 Facile |
★★★ The Hot Pearl Snatch
![]() | 10m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Sam 11 Fév 2023 | ||||
Amazing rock quality
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24 |
★★ Pin Up
![]() | 20m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1983 | ||||
Hard finger crack
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17 |
★ Rolling Stones
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
18 |
FA
Corridors of Power
![]() | 30m | Western Gara Gorge | Dans la moyenne | 1981 | ||||
fun route, good climbing
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16 |
FA
★ Bunker Hill
![]() | 52m | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | 1976 | ||||
First ascentionist comment: This route was the first one on the cliff and has historic interest for that reason. Remember that it was done with primitive 'pro. Not one for wimps or sport climbers! Contrary to the comment in the guide, the first pitch is quite exciting and well worth doing. Second pitch is a 'walk' and pitch 3 is a struggle for the grade.
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17 |
FA
★★★ Brut
![]() | 25m | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1976 | ||||
17 |
FA
★ Rolling Stones
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Bon | 1977 | ||||
The prevailing ethic at the time of the first ascent was 'no pre-inspection or pre-cleaning' and Phil was hit on the shin by a large rock whilst belaying. Hence the name.
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21 |
FA
★ Street Café
![]() | 30m | Cathedral Rock National Park | Sam 15 Mars 2014 | |||||
Seconded Al
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20 |
FA
★★ Angels and Us
![]() | 83m | Eastern Gara Gorge | 1995 | |||||
16 |
FA
★ P's and Q's
![]() | 75m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | 1995 | ||||
19 |
FA
★★★ Orchadia
![]() | 100m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1996 | ||||
19 |
FA
★ Tigger's Pause
![]() | 60m | Eastern Gara Gorge | 1995 | |||||
20 |
FA
★★ Surprising Rising
![]() | 40m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1995 | ||||
19 |
FA
★★ Sailors of the Sun
![]() | 30m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 1995 | ||||
21 |
FA
★★★ Tiny Tips
![]() | 40m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | 1996 | ||||
20 |
FA
★★★ Brawn & Bovril
![]() | 50m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Ven 27 Juin 2014 | ||||
Well worth the walk.
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18 |
FA
★★ Lady Finger's Boudoir Biscuits
![]() | 15m | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Sam 19 Juil 2014 | ||||
18 |
FA
★ Just an Old-Fashioned Girl
![]() | 25m | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Sam 19 Juil 2014 | ||||
18 |
FA
★ High Mass
![]() | 25m | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Sam 19 Juil 2014 | ||||
18 |
FA
★★★ House of Cards
![]() | 15m | Western Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Sam 19 Juil 2014 | ||||
16 |
FA
★★ Clarence Frogman Henry
![]() | 15m | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Sam 19 Juil 2014 | ||||
18 |
FA
★ Richard the Obscure
![]() | 16m | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Sam 19 Juil 2014 | ||||
21 |
FA
★★ Trying Time
![]() | 8m | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Sam 19 Juil 2014 | ||||
18 |
FA
★ Silk Aromas
![]() | 20m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Oct. 2015 | ||||
Seconded Carol on her first ascent.
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16 |
FA
★ Stepping Out
![]() | 15m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | 1977 | ||||
8 |
FA
Elbow Twister
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Dans la moyenne | 1995 | ||||
23 |
FA
★★ Chewin Fat With The Paleo Brat
![]() | 20m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Lun 12 Juin 2017 | ||||
Seconded Carol on this with a few
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21 |
FA
★ Bad Times Just Around The Corner
![]() | 20m | Mt Yarrowyck | ★ Bon | 1984 | ||||
22 |
★★ Inertia
![]() | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Sam 20 Août 2022 | ||||
Really good rock, fun jams. I loike it. First few pieces already placed as cbf cleaning after first go.
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16 |
FA
★ Roundabout
![]() | 25m | Western Gara Gorge | Dans la moyenne | 1980 | ||||
Fun
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18 |
FA
★ Risky Shift
![]() | 20m | Eastern Gara Gorge | Dans la moyenne | Jeu 1 Avr 1982 | ||||
interesting
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18 |
FA
★ Flight of the bumbly
![]() | 45m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Dim 20 Avr 1997 | ||||
15 |
★★ La Cucaracha
![]() | 40m | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
18 |
★ Little Wonder
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Bon | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
17 |
★★ Firestorm
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
13 |
FA
Y's Move
![]() | 8m | Upper Gara Gorge | Dans la moyenne | 1979 | ||||
fun beginers route
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14 |
★★ Charity
![]() | 20m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
18 |
★★ Knuckleduster
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
16 |
FA
★★ Whale Oil Beef Hooked
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Bon | Sam 1 Nov. 1980 | ||||
fun climb
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20 |
FA
Mystery Achievement
![]() | 10m | Dangars Gorge | Dans la moyenne | 1979 | ||||
a bit short, good fun
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22 |
FA
★★ Vallium Vision
![]() | 30m | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mer 1 Mai 1985 | ||||
great climb, great position
|
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21 |
FA
★ Payolla
![]() | 10m | Western Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | Dim 1 Août 1982 | ||||
A Hard start
|
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16 |
★★ Whale Oil Beef Hooked
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
21 |
FA
★★ Manicure
![]() | 10m | Western Gara Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mar 1 Juin 1982 | ||||
Lives up to its name
|
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17 |
FA
Stupid Fools and Fucking Idiots
![]() | 75m | Eastern Gara Gorge | Dans la moyenne | Ven 1 Juil 1983 | ||||
some nice climbing
|
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18 |
★★ Fingers
![]() | 8m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
16 |
★★ Hope
![]() | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Bon | 2000 | ||||
15 |
Ivory Stairs
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Dans la moyenne | 2006 | ||||
15 |
★★ Sunday Morning Energy
![]() | 28m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
13 |
FA
Breakfast at Sweethearts
![]() | 13m | Western Gara Gorge | Dans la moyenne | Mar 1 Avr 1980 | ||||
Some pleasant climbing
|
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17 |
Contrivia
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Dans la moyenne | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
16 |
★★ Hope
![]() | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Juil 2002 | ||||
16 |
★★ Whale Oil Beef Hooked
![]() | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Excellent | 2006 |