Ascensions dans Newcastle

Might be easier, cool moves at the crux above your gear.

super sketchy start as foot holds break off and the rock peels off when you smear/lay back. crack is also so dirty your hand jams slip constantly. needs to be cleaned before climbing each day.

Possible to climb this using the bolts to the left of the route, which probably makes it slightly harder than 18...

Tiny crimps to the mono. Fun to work. Lead it with first clip third bolt of BS but essentially TR'ed the crux.

I had written this off as impossible when first bolting the area. Turns out theres just enough on a few thin, flaky edges to get you up to the mono (awesome!) and across to the good edge near the third bolt of bedtime sillies. Fun!

Needs a clean and would be better bolted

Big job. Some spice when the feet disappear on the main wall. Some legitimately cool moves to be found in the second half of this! Someone had to do it

Actually ok, - theres worse at Monkey Face

pre inspected and clipped. Heap of footers came off. Excellent sustained climbing with a lie down rest to watch the whales.

13 bolts

Sustained funs

Had to sit to find the holds around 4th/5th bolt somewhere. Really enjoyable climbing - long, pretty consistent at the grade with a nice view along the coast midway.

Its long, and I even jammed cos that felt more secure

12 bolts

Pretty nice, large crack. Lots of loose stuff - helmet strongly recommended for belayer. Belay point is pretty crappy.. Only one bolt at the top belay point.

FFA. The continuation is pumpier, but not harder. Keep some energy to clean it.

Couldn’t find double rings to claim as finish, so I topped out and wrapped off a boulder up top. One ring was a little rusty but they’re all well placed and looking good otherwise. The track in was well described, but didn’t mention the warm up it gave you from navigating the boulders to get to the bottom of the crag. Many of which required climbing or balance to get over or around. The walk in was more dangerous than most of the climbing. Helmets recommended. Otherwise, on-sighted the climb, enjoyed it immensely. The view of Newcastle and red-head from the top were impeccable. First post for me.

Surprisingly lots of fun.

great crack climb with bolts as pro

This climb is great! Some of the best rock on the wall at the top. Might add another ring for lowering off at the top.

Was leaving this to do after the dragon. It's been a long wait. Out to hobbits and back to the grimy anchors clean.

Really good. Fun to get a few crack moves

Very enjoyable climbing !

Did as 2 pitches due to ledge, not as good as other two

very direct start 22 I reckon but easily bypassed

Fun direct start

Start is difficult, but can be skipped by starting further left. Above that it is more like a 16.

Phenomenal location, average climbing.

Very bad rock. Super long approach. Not worth it

Very bad rock. Super long approach. Not worth it