Voies dans North Shore

Climb Falling Leaves to the big hold under the rooflet. Match hands, undercling the rooflet and go to the top. Way more fun and scary if you are short.

Start on some crozzly edges beneath the overlap/seam/crack. Go up to some more suspect edges and then go left to the obvious holds. Be very careful.

From the two perfect slots in the middle of the roof, come out and match on the broken slopers.

Quite probably a re-clean and mistaken re-claim of Thing (V3). Start from the slopey ledge, move right to the long rail, boost to the the dish then make for the mantle.

Start as for Bing, then move right and up on slopey and not thoroughly clean holds, in the process avoiding Elvis' jugs.

Start low on the right-facing layback flake and move left and up. A long move with an interesting landing gains the lip and, with a shift in style and a cool mantle, the summit.

From the finishing hold of Pork Platter make two nice moves out the roof to the feature, then two tough moves up and to the right, then finish on the obvious jug in the break.

Sit start on the left on the flat ledge. Move right and out the roof via some good holds to finish on the jug rail.

Just right of the pockets on Mikes Five is a long not-so good-hold in a little scoop. Start from this and move up and rightwards through an assortment of bad holds to finish in the break where the vegetation grows.

M7,L8,R9,L10,R11,L12,M12

Don't bust a tendon!

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Grab the edge with your right hand, the little slope with your left and then the top with your right hand. Watch the superman swing!

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

No feet problem traversing left to right along the slopey break.

A variant of 'The Pillar' but without using feet. Start on the two positive crimps on the lip and then 1,6,3,7,8

As for Vitamin C but go RH to the triangle instead of matching the high rail. No heels.

M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet.

Same as for 'Gladheateher' but skip the arete and dyno instead.

Up the slopey features, past the two finger pocket to finish above the warm up start holds. Plenty of eliminates.

Up Not for Sissies via the undercling. Easy if you’re tall, nails if you’re not.

Traverse leftwards from the sloper next to the chin up bar and finish in the break above the 'Bowels Of The Devil' layaway. Stay below the good holds.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

M4, R5, L6, L7 'Campus' problem. Hold the finish for a few seconds for the tick.

Sit start on low rail and continue up the slopey arete finishing on a high jug.

Just left of Penis Cling start on the juggy ledge and continue up the slopey arete.

Start at Genicus and go up through crimp rail to slopey rail. Traverse rightwards till the holds end then make a big move out to jug in the roof.

Low start on crimp rail straight up to finish matched on slopey rail. Cleaned up nicely.

One of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug.

Jordan Maxwell

Mikha Liem

George Li

Sit start at the right hand side of the boulder and make your way leftwards to top out over the prow. So named because one of the area's developers ended up coming off while holding onto one of the rough holds higher up and subsequently lost a fair bit of skin on his left hand.

on thin holds in the middle of the wall power up to the lip.

Common start as for BLTSS and RT. Tend right into PD then head up avoiding the jug out left. Mantle directly through the overhanging top without using large hold or ledge out right.

Start on obvious big incut and proceed up using edge or filthy mono for grade. Top out high, but has good holds. Can be done dynamically without using the mono or edge for about V3. Actually Fa'd by Ranger Dave until a nameless climber tried a dynamic move off the undercling and sent it flying into the bush behind, rendering it unrepeatable that way!

Pull on from the good rail and then go right hand to the good horizontal edge. Left hand to the pocket and then try not to barn-door going for the right hand two finger pocket. Bring your feet high and battle your way up the large V to top out.

A Super Committing problem requiring raw strength and some epic dead pointing Sit start at the lowest point just left of "BIAHH", directly under the pigs snout holds. Move up through the ledges till you are clinging to the crimpers on the face above you, put your feet high and launch yourself at the two small vertical holds shaped like a pigs snout. Oh yeah, own that hold, get your other hand up there and raise yourself up for the lawd! Huh! Can ya feel it? Ohhhh Yea!

Matthew Ritchie

Start at the right of the face. using crimps head up and mantle onto the slab side, top out here.

Who knew being swallowed by a whale could be so much fun!

Sit start 1m right of "Thy Mighty Right Hand" (with the scooped out section of the lip on your left) and pump up the inviting array of crimpers until you reach the good slots

With some interesting holds above you, work your way through this problem until you can get your left hand deep within the rounded scoop.

Like water from a blowhole, shoot straight up for the top out and wipe the stomach acids from your hand

Love it!

Powerful, challenging start!

Awkward sit start under horizontal sloping crack line with your feet up hill. Pull on and move up through crimps to the sloping scoop. Straight up the middle of the face to top out.

Crouch start on the left of the right arete on a small crimp for your left hand and the arete for your right. The arete is in.

Embrace the feel good spirit of this technical problem.

At the blunt arete on the left side of the Undecided Boulder, sit start on the low sidepull pockets.

pull up to the big rounded pocket and then throw your hand out to the left arete, creating a huge hug.

Focusing on your balance, delicately move up the center of the arete.

Top out via the water eroded part of the rock, but don't lost sight until you are well on the top as the end of the problem can get really slippery

A beautiful line with a super fun sequence!

Father Ted's stiff upper lip finishing early in the exit of Simon's dyno

Why jump when you can crimp! Start on the same undercling as Simon's Dyno, but instead of jumping climb your way up the line. Maybe a bit easier than the dyno? Start undercling, Hard right crimp, sloper lip, mantle top out. Great moves on decent rock.

Dyno from undercling, right crimps out.

Finish as for CBB but add a sit start. Start low with right hand in crimp and left foot out left.

From the good starting holds left of The Promised Dunk, dyno to the lip of the roof. A nice mantle to finish. Amazing fly!

From the good starting holds left of Smile, dyno to the lip of the roof. A nice mantle to finish. Amazing fly!

TWO Epic dyno's followed by a committing mantle makes this problem a definite crag classic!

Sit start at the common spot under the left hand side of the overhang

Pull on and move left to the deep slot and the tight crimping slot above it.

From this location, think big and Dyno up to the solid ledge line under the main part of the overhang.

After pulling your self back to the rock, compose and then dyno out to the left to the deep slot under the lip of the overhang.

Match and top out straight up with some committing mantling

Solid and heart pounding all the way through

A pumping build up of death defying proportions!

start on the right about 1m from were the overhang starts. Match hands in the thin letter box around eye level. From here work diagonally up to the left following the line of pockets side pulls, etc.

Hit the large ledge and get ready to tackle this lion of a top out. Head straight up the water eroded scoop and smear, pinch, slap and reach long for the good holds up top.

Free yourself from the Lions Jaws, but take note that you can finish this problem without doing a "beached Whale"

Traverse with a top out

One of the best 5s in Sydney. Start right hand in the pocketey side pull just left of the scoop and go straight up aiming for the nice uncut just left of the scoop up high. Nails.

A powerful and desperate crag classic. Start matched on the bottom sloper rail and power up the slopey ramp, past an edge, to the finish jug up high (on 'The High Traverse').

Phillip Booth

The classic training problem. Usually done left to right. If you don't rest in the little cave it is apparently equivalent to a 28.

Start up Wiener, but keep traversing left to finish up Knackwurst. (Sausage salad is a real thing in Germany...)

Link 'Upper Pipe Dreams' into Pipe Dreams. Long, pumpy and awesome.

The high traverse back from the end of 'Pipe Dreams' back to the start. Hands below the top.

Starts by underclinging a large flake just right of the big corner crack. Right to a large pocket on the arete and then up.

Turn the nose without the good ledge or the top at V5+

Adds a move to GT by sit-starting with left hand pocket, right hand layaway

Starting on the slopey crimp, attack the arete of 'The Golden Triangle'

Eliminate the squarish horn, smeary + desperate

Hold the obvious round pocket with your left hand and reach up to a sloper and nubin then up.

The classic left-to-right traverse starting in the layback crack and going all the way to '2 - The Runnel'.

Start with your right hand in the slot and move up via the slopey pocket just right of the layback crack to a higher slopey pocket.

Using the only good set of footholds to the left of the ramp use a single finger undercling and reach, reach, reach for an edge. It helps if you're tall.

Starting at the base of the ramp, climb the wall without using the seam. Tricky.

Traverse the block rightwards staying below the lip.

High, thin, airy, scary.

Between 'The Arete' and The Tourist Route, a thin wall above two pockets with a well worn edge. Don't stray offline.

Up the seam using 20 cm corridor of rock

Between arete and corner eliminating the break and big pocket.

Fierce little ironstone crimps just left of the seam.

Start on footholds on left edge of front of boulder, traverse right, and top out up crack in the middle, all hands-free.

From broken undercling, reach/slap the sloping lip, then over and up using the right arete

1/2m to the right of the obvious discontinuous crack feature is a small pocket. Off this to very crimpy stuff above.

Right hand on the incut crimp, grab small sidepull for left and desperately up

Narrow line up the right of the arete.

Link Hands Up Pants Down! into Kookaburra Attacked My Girlfriend.

Link Stem Junior 2 into Project 6.

Some nice back and forth movement around the arete.

Everything above the pinch and pocket level are out on the starting face of the rock. The top peak of the arete is out.

Vid: Richard C

Link Pants Up Hands Down! into the second half of Kookaburra Attacked My Girlfriend.

On the steep side of the long block, start about as low as you can. Hold the first lip and traverse it till the apex. May be v6. (The hotline is 1800 152 152 out of interest.)

Pretty well the final buttress heading right. Start on two high crimps. Up to groovy ramp. Then up over round top. Decent is ugly. Could be 6? Really good. The seated start will make it excellent.

Start as for Susan, then keep traversing left till large, sloped ramp. Follow this. Watch for high slope and wide pocket. Tough if you're short!

Arete on the right side of the bloc to the left of Lover's Tiff.

Start both hands on the undercling before moving up a line of thin crimps to better holds up high. Match the top of the wall for the tick (tree obstructs topout). No shared holds with Coal Train Blues. The large separate bulge of rock to the left is off as per video.

saitama

Stand start both hands on the square pocket near Monkey Magic while ensuring both feet are not on the sandy bit of rock (yellow-orange). Avoid the yellow-orange rock for feet and traverse towards the top-out of Bruce Lee. Also avoid going for the sandy ledge to traverse towards the left.

benthepleb

A real hip popper! Start behind old bench and move up the big pockets to the right. Follow longish sloping ledge, smearing and/or heal hooking like the best of them. Use gaping hole to finish with both hands on the jugging ledge of Dump Divers Dyno and ELAP.

Super Reachy with solid power required on the last hold! A must try!

Middle of the wall left of '4 - Corner Crack' on small crimps.