Ascensions dans Peggy's Cove Area contenant Bêta

Tall, super fun. Down-climb is harder than the climb.

A constant fight the entire way. Super fun! First V3.

Long-term project for me through 2021 and early 2022.

#1. I'm calling this an onsight because the last time I cleaned it was as ground-up cleaning day with Climb NS, so the route was completely different. It's much nicer now that it's not a complete bush/mud disaster.

#4. Will led, taking a fall after the first move before placing gear. I think he placed 2 cams and a nut, ultimately. I also slipped off on the first move, but completed it after that. Fun route.

#3. Will lead, can't recall what pro was used. Maybe a single purple cam, before topping out and walking over to the Crazy Train rings.

#2. Will led, I cleaned. Definitely some blank sections but the holds are there... somewhere.

#5/5 on the day. Fun climbing, then an interesting top out. Will have to try the direct option next time instead of the left/right zig.

Nothing else was going today. Tired, hot and humid.

#2

Somehow felt easier than 'Lake Warm-up SDS' (V0).

Probably helped that I'd inspected the holds.

#1

A struggle today.

Fitting name; one of the sharpest climbs I’ve had the “pleasure” of sending. Definitely left some skin behind.

Have been working on this climb for three years. It finally went today, on what was likely my final trip to Dover before moving back to Ontario. Incredibly stoked.

This was a fun one. Starts on a jug, slopers, then more jugs.

Sloppy, but onsight.

I did a sit start. Guide is ambiguous on whether that's required.

Couldn't work out body position to get off ramp.

One move and a lichen mantle.

Thought I'd do one more to end the day. Nope.

End of the session, but felt stronger than my first time on it.

Pretty close. Worked out until skin was almost gone, around 20 goes?

Just a single pad. Stacking would feel like cheating.

Felt easy.

Contact strength much improved from first time.

Middle was wet. Came off.

Can't find a good left hand to start.

Bailed half way up. Probably past the crux, but wasn't feeling it. Especially looking down to see the wind taking away the pad.

Didn't have enough daylight to give it a good go, but this looks really good. Nice crimps widely spaced.

Wasn't feeling it - tired and without a spotter. Looks like a good one though.

Dirty

Dodgy topout/descent

Feels like it will be good moves when I find the beta. Couldn't do the first two moves, but the top is easy.

Will go with a spotter

Should have flashed it, but hesitated on my first attempt - the high foot was slightly intimidating for my first day bouldering outside in a while.

Easy once I brushed enough.

Careful of the landing.

Second lead-n-clean of the day. Mostly just scrubbed off a bunch of the slippery grey lichen on the face and the crunchy black stuff too. Fun climb, even with pauses to scrub.

Attempted the start of Ride The Lightning but couldn't get more than one step off the ground, so gave up and TR'd Biting the head instead. More lichen scrubbing enroute.

My first ever ground-up lead-n'-clean (clead?). Bit of a pain to scamper up the face, but with the big crack cleaned out a bit, should be more fun (and possibly a trad line now?). Unclear if that'll make it a lower grade or just a more fun climb.

Still more dirt to be scrubbed from the crack but at least now there are side pulls above and below it.