Voies dans Europe pour la cotation selectionnée

World's first 8C! In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a heel-hook to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8B+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade.

Repetitions

• 2001 Bernd Zangerl (8C)
• 2002 Dave Graham, Chris Sharma
• 2003 Cristian Core
• 2004 Malcolm Smith (V14)
• 2005 Koyamada Dai (8B+/V14), Nalle Hukkataival
• 2007 Killian Fischhuber
• 2009 Adam Ondra (8B+)
• 2013 Jan Hojer (8C/V15)
• 2018 Jimmy Webb , Jakob Schubert
• 2020 Kim Marschner, Alex Megos, Yannick Flohe

Links

• German Article about the problem

Sit start.

The original route was bolted in 1993 by Alexander Huber. First ascension: Alexander Huber in 1994. Assigned grade was 8c+ (length: 35 m).

Daniel Andrada added a 6 m extension and the climb is known as La Rambla/La Rambla Direct/La Rambla Extension. Grade: 9a+ (length: 41m).

This is the full length of La Rambla and includes the traverse after the first anchor. It connects to the anchor of La Reina Mora.

Climbed by Margo Hayes in 2017 making her the first woman to climb a confirmed 9a+.

#sd #rl

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A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

• Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
• Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
• Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• Sachi Amma
• Cédric Lachat
• Jakob Schubert
• Domen Škofic
• Magnus Midtbø
• Mateusz Haladaj
• Jonathan Siegrist
• Daniel Woods
• Matty Hong
• Piotr Schab
• Said Belhaj
• Klemen Bečan
• Patxi Usobiaga
• Jon Cardwell
• Felipe Camargo
• Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

• 2001, July, 19, Chris Sharma - Beta video
• 2004, May, 24, Sylvain Millet
• 2004, July, 29, Patxi Usobiaga
• 2007, July, 30, Dave Graham
• 2007, Sep, 02, Ethan Pringle
• 2008, July, 27, Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• 2010, Aug, 15, Enzo Oddo
• 2014, June, 01, Jonathan Siegrist
• 2014, July, 11, Alex Megos
• 2014, July, 22, Adam Ondra
• 2014, Aug, 07, Sachi Amma
• 2015, June, 22, Stefano Ghisolfi
• 2016, May, 25, Jon Cardwell
• 2016, Aug, 05, Sean Bailey
• 2017, Sep, 24, Margo Hayes
• 2018, July, Piotr Schab
• 2018, Sep, Stefano Carnati
• 2019, July, Jorge Díaz-Rullo
• 2020, Sébastien Bouin
• 2023, Apr, Tanguy Merard
• 2023, May, Matty Hong

The scene of some very impressive ascents. 3rd shot by a 14 year old Ondra at 8c+ then, after a hold broke, Megos made the first ever 9a onsight (if you don't count some 9a's previously onsighted but downgraded by Ondra).

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Starts on the right side of the cave, enters it and exits in the center.

• Tomáš Mrázek (May 2002)
• Christian Bindhammer (Autmn 2002)
• Vadim Vinokur
• Kilian Fischhuber (May 2005)
• Cédric Lachat (2007)
• Lukasz Dudek (April 2009)
• Jakob Schubert (March 2010)
• Gabriele Moroni (September 2014)
• Domen Škofic (September 2014)
• Alexander Feichter (March 2015)
• Heli Kotter (2015)
• Leto Cavé (2020)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP9ZOuJB7X0

Depending on the climber the grading varies between 8c+ and 9a. It was initially graded 8c+ by Manfred Stuffer, but in 2000, Yuji Hirayama suggested 8c+/9a. In 2002, Tomas Mrazek and Christian Bindhammer suggested 9a. Alex Megos suggested a downgrade in 2020 after he flashed it back to 8c+ or 8c+/9a.

A hold broke in summer 2015 and it is now more likely a 9a.

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Above Digital System.

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Shares anchor with "Nordic Plumber".

Described by Jonathan Siegrist as "Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell."

The route links a section of 8c into a steep and crimpy upper half to create a 45-meter endurance test-piece.

It was the first 9b to be freed by a female climber: Angy Eiter.

Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

Repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi (6/4/2018).

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Variant of "Reini's Vibos".

9 July 2013 - Onsighted by Adam Ondra.

Repeats by Stefano Ghisolfi (13/01/2018) and Daniel Woods (25/02/2018).

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Starts in 'Strelovod', ends in 'Konec mira'

Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma.

First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016

Start as Trio Ternura. Full route.

Starts with Noia and finishes some 70 moves later on Anaconda. Initially graded 9b but downgraded by Sébastien Bouin in 2023.

The #sd of 'Muttertag'

A route with a long history of grade changes. Ramon Julian initially graded it at 8c/+. Then Patxi Usobiaga proposed 8c+. In 2015 Alex Megos broke a hold before sending it proposing 9a. Jakob Schubert flashed it and downgraded it to 8c+/9a which was later confirmed by Jorge Díaz-Rullo and seems to be the current consensus.

Angie Scarth-Johnson's Sep 2021 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 9a/35.

Given 8c+ by Huber, but received only 4 more ascents in 16 years and was upgraded 2 grades. Grade 9a confirmed by Chris Sharma in 2022.

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The centre of the cave from back left.

#sitstart #topout #slopers

Rainshadow is the stunning extension to Raindogs.

Initially graded 9b/9b+, downgrade proposed by Adam Ondra to 9b in Nov-2021.

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

• Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
• Adam Ondra
• Jakob Schubert
• Sachi Amma
• Piotr Schab

Variant of Llamps I Trons.

Left start into 'Crackinette'.

A route of historic importance bolted by French local Quentin Chastagnier, FAed by Alex Megos and flashed by Adam Ondra, making it the first of the grade to be flashed (see Reel Rock 13).

According to Adam Ondra, the route doesn't have any real crux, just around 25-30 moves of very sustained hard and fingery climbing in a big overhang where the hardest section comes just before linking the direct start into the original Crackinette, and then you have to deal with the awkward 8b+ crack itself.

Repeats by Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi.

Alternative start to La Fabela finishing at the anchor of La Fabela.

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Sit start.

Climbs to the anchor of "Rollito Sharma".

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Links "Une Arquée pour un criquet" and "La Croix de To Loose".

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Downgrade to 9a proposed by Sébastien Bouin .

Left variation of "Le Cadre" that avoids the chipped holds on the original line. Hard for the grade.

Start left of "Pal Este" and climb into "Pal Publico".