Voies dans Colorado pour la cotation selectionnée

This is actually 2 routes linked as one. Each 3 pitches long.

Approach: follow sign for red garden wall but stay close to the wall on your right and follow it until you see a ramp going up about 10ft off the ground. A bouldery move gets you on top of the ramp where some class 4 (and maybe some 5.0) brings you to the top of the ridge. On the other side of that ridge with a huge tree is the lower ramp, which is an alternate way of getting here, albeit way more committing. Don’t be afraid to rope up in this section, I hear there’s been lots of accidents here.

P1: Start right in front of the huge tree on a thin hand crack. Delicate moves. Then up the crack and face to easier terrain. Traverse righ to a ledge under a huge roof.

P2: The Ruper crack. Go right around the corner, do a little traverse and gain the start of the ruper crack in the dihedral, A #4 camalot will protect the first few moves. Some laybacking, some offwidth moves and some decent holds along the way get you up to a small roof with a pin where the crack ends. Go over the roof and left to a bolted anchor on a small ledge,

P3: Move right and up a small corner, then traverse right on delicate moves. Stay low and make sure you look down and enjoy the exposure. You’ll get to a small crack, follow it up and into a juggy wall to the top. But tree with slings. This is the end of Lower Ruper. If you want to end your day here, head up the upper ramp on the left to a huge tree. Then up 30ft on a small ridge to a little tree and down 15ft to rap rings. 2 sigle 60m rope rappels get you down.

P4: Go across the upper ramp and down to the wall on the back, The start is right after the big roof. It’s hard to find so look carefully for a crack and chalk marks that go all the way up to a small orange roof. Climb straigh up and belay at a tiny ledge.

P5: Continue up and belay just under the orange roof with a bunch of pins and broken rock. I found better anchor placements about 10ft bellow the roof. P4 and P5 could be combined into one if you’re mindful of rope drag and have enough gear (or big balls).

P6: Traverse under the roof clipping some pins that wobble. For me the psychological crux at about 5.8+. Then up easy run out slab to the top.

Descent: From the top look for a V notch to the left and up, go thru it and then down a gully with big boulders. Follow the gully down to the end and look for rap on the left. A single 60m rope rap gets you (barely) to the top of the upper ramp. Climb the small slab in front, over the ridge with a small tree and down and right to rings, 2 single 60m rope rappels get you down from here.

Part of a large flake on the South Gateway Rock, it forms into a separate column near the top.

P1. The start is tricky, on a rough overhang. The old drilled pins have been replaced with 3 modern bolts. There is a thin belay stance about halfway up the length of the column. 50', 5.7.

P2. Ascend the crack that becomes a chimney passing 2 drilled pins. The best part is after you finish the chimney section and end the second pitch by pulling left onto the top of the column. The view is awesome, and well worth the effort. 95', 5.7+.

P3. To top out, you step across from the flake to the right just below a drilled pin. This move has become more difficult as the rock eroded. Climb past a drilled angle to a finishing groove. It is kind of scary and hard up there, so it's not done as often. Belay to the south on a ledge system behind the main wall. Scramble south down the big gully to the end of South Gateway to get off.

This is a great route, it has 8 pitches and is slightly runout on easy terrain at the top. It is very crowded and in my opinion not nearly as good as the slightly harder and more sustained Culp-Bossier on Hallett Peak. Give yourself plenty of time to do this one as four rappels are required to reach the ground. The summit is awesome and the upper pitches are high quality. The first few pitches aren't as fun and kind of mungy.

From Charles Vernon:

Approach by parking at the Glacier Gorge juntion trailhead (about a mile before Bear Lake) and follow the signs for about 4 miles to Sky Pond. Scramble up talus to the base of the Petit, which is overshadowed by the Sharkstooth. The Saber will be prominent to the right.

P1 - Aim for a groove in the center of the steadily narrowing South Face, and climb that for a long easy pitch to a grassy ledge.

P2-enter a giant chimney in the center of the face and belay on top of a chockstone (5.6, 100 feet).

P3-Take the left-slanting line out of the cave and belay on a large ledge below a smaller chimney (5.7, 140 feet).

P4-Climb the chimney, then traverse right to a belay below the right end of a roof (5.6, 120 feet).

P5-Head straight up at 5.9, or pull around to the right on easier rock (spotty pro either way). Climb up a steep crack, into a left facing corner with a beautiful finger crack, and proceed to a ledge on the east side of the Petit (sustained 5.8, 120 feet).

P6- climb up, head right and then back left to a small stance on the southeast arete--the Pizza Pan Belay (5.7, 130 feet).

P7-climb the crack above the belay to a ledge, and climb straight up the wall, then slightly up right to belay just below the ridgeline (or on it if you have enough rope) (5.7, 160 feet).

P8-gain the ridge, then follow it up to the spectacular summit (5.6 or 5.7, 80-90 feet).

Descent: rappel off of fixed anchors at the northest corner of the summit. Either swing right to a ledge after about 140 feet, or continue on to more hard to see bolts further down. If taking the first option, look for a deep chimney to the north, and climb it up to the saddle between the Sharkstooth and the Saber. From there, descend the 3rd class gash to the north, the hike out the drainage, following a trail which rejoins the Sky Pond trail, thereupon taking the appropriate direction depending upon where your equipment is. It is also possible to traverse east behind the Saber from the saddle and desend a gully (possibly necessitating a short rappel or two), which leads to the talus above Sky Pond-- though I haven't done this.

One more note of caution--some guidebooks describe a "5.4" variation to the right of the first five pitches of the route which purportedly bypasses the crux and leads straight to the south face. That is completely bogus--I have searched in every conceivable spot, and there is no way to bypass the traditional crux at 5.4 from the so-called "second terrace". Don't count on it. Alternate descent description Rap descent - per James Beissel: - All of the rap stations are bolted. If you are rapping off anything besides bolt you are screwing up.- You will need two 60m ropes- All of the raps are double rope rappels- Do not try to rap into the gully!!!- You should not have to downclimb at all

1. Rap from a Fixe anchor at the (climber's) right end of the summit. ~160 feet.

2. Rap from two Fixe ring anchors just past the terrace to a pair of Metolius rap bolts. ~160 feet.

3. Rap from the fatty Metolius bolts to the big grassy ledge. ~160 ft. The next set of bolts are about 50' to your left at eye level, above a chimney of sorts. Addendum: it's exposed clipping the anchor.

4. Rap from the anchor over the void (homemade hanger + modern Fixe ring bolt). Pass up the grassy ledge (Second Terrace) at about 160ft. and aim for the big horn about 20' below you. There's probably slings around the horn. They'll help you spot the station, but you will actually be rapping from bolts below the horn. ~180' feet.

5. A 200+' rap to a big grassy ledge (First Terrace). The next bolts will be about 50' climber's right. Addendum: you may not reach this anchor, but there is a slung boulder at ~165' to make a short additional rap.

6. Another 200' rap to the ground off two Fixe ring bolts.

PG-13?

Xenolith is located left of Double B, which is the obvious, left-facing dihedral marking the right edge of the Quarry Wall. There is a comfortable boulder at the bottom for the belayer.

On the nose of the second buttress, this route is a classic with an exposed and steep climbing (cracks & slab). It could be hard to find the route once you are up on it.

Bolted line that ascends the slab to the right of Old'n. Fun smearing and small finger pockets. Shares anchor with Old'n.

Gear to a two bolt anchor with chains and lower-off hooks.

Shared start with Schindler's Pissed.

Wet crack line and then over a small roof above a tree.