Ascensions dans World par Vanessa Wills contenant sport-cpr ou ascent-date

Alzheimers os, to the anchors of Mr C. Easier than 24 but maybe better for the short

Shortish but nice movement and a hand jam

The crux was definitely the thin seam, felt grade 23, the rest was just pump management and plain fun.

Contrived.

Super breezy, frozen hands more than pump

Felt the need to get back and redpoint this before we leave. Found the redpoint crux up high first go and refined beta before getting it second go. We also took a few finger sized nuts and cams and made use of them. Kamikaze ladybugs everywhere at the top of the routes today.

Needs to brush the slopers at the start a fair bit, very greasy and overchalked. Few goes to first bolt, went to top, clean second main attempt. Love the kneebars.

Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.

Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka

Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.

Nice moves, probably 22 as per the guide when compared to a few of the other 23s here

The down grade is personal due to the fact it seems most people and myself stay right of the bolts for most of the climb. It feels pretty contrived otherwise. The old bolts need replacing.

Even moving left straight from corner this thing seems soft for grade. Interesting moves for short climb.

Pocketssss, just lovely and the new shoes are feeling better

Interesting to see if taller people find alternative beta. Getting onto arete is tricky. The undercling I originally could use didn’t last very long so the pinch is hard for me.

Rpt, 2 clean laps

I didn’t think it was hard except the reachy bit straight off the ledge if you can’t reach the top of the flake. Both halves have nice moves. A bit too much mizzle coming in to do more today, but nice spot .

2 laps, the effect of being sick for the past 2 weeks showed by the second lap

Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end

Start pretty thin but ok. Top easy.

Third go, had to figure the crux reach. Crack gloves both hands helped and taped right index finger for brutal finger lock

Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.

Two laps to set up a rope swing and take it down.

End of day lap placing draws.

Better today with the cooler temps and the wall in shade.

Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below

The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!

I found this easier than BIALB, kneebar and foot cams and a sit down rest everywhere

Started up in new climbing shoes and had to swap at the hands free rest, but still managed to fall off after at mid crux. Worked out a better sequence for the mid crux for height. on sighted the start and end cruxes.

Hopefully the predicted rain will settle the dust. Really great and varied moves and steeper than it looks. One go on TR to brush the holds then sent with a bit of power grunting and wobbling before we had to leave.

The start seemed extremely grimy with dirt caked in many holds. The climbing a bit contrived to make it a true 23, but some nice bits in there.

Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun

Easier than a bischoff flinders 23! Had a go last year, clearly done more crimping this year and got it 3rd go today once I sorted a sequence.

Ate away my finger skin going direct on the crux. Mc Dougalled a bit in the end as I could hold the sloper and get feet up well with a half pad undercling but couldn’t reach the good hold

Paddling makes you strong

Some nice moves once in the stemming groove. The 9 th or 10th bolt’s nut was quite loose. I finger tightened it, worth bringing a spanner

Intricate crux at about third height for me that was quite enjoyable. A bit stop/ start from half height

Interesting lower section

Lovely technical finger seam

Led once then top roped it clean because I thought there were people queuing. Even mid week this place is hectic. The run out freaked me out a bit, will take some finger sized cams to lead. Much more relaxed on top rope though still pumpy. Nothing over grade 22 really, the reachy move near the second bolt is probably the crux for me, but I’m sure a red point crux will be higher.

Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke

Rpt, haven’t been on this for a decade at least. Nice to walk up it today, maybe I’m so old yet…

Rpt, two goes, clean second shot

It’s ok, though I was berating the equipper for the ground fall run out to the last bolt, but realised I had missed the second last bolt on the way down. Sorry.

Including a diversion into madder after we clipped the wrong starting bolt. Nice powerful moves but the chalked up holds don’t leave much doubt as to where to go.

Should have led it, I read it well except for a hidden footer below a draw. Much easier for me than some of the height dependent routes eg in flagrante.

Cleaned out the glue so now all the bolt plates fit, did the mantle at the top, decided there must be an easier way to do the crux but not much luck.

Three interesting sections with some good moves that can be finessed by technical trickery.

Go the kneebar

Decided it felt easy on the first burn but the skin didn’t like it, then got super pumped on the send go after taping up.Thankful for the plonka rest.

Managed the missing move, now have a to string it together

I really like the moves. It took about 4 shots, and reconfiguring starting beta after I pulled off the best hold. Now even crimpier. It is Watagans rock however.

Did all moves but one. Interesting moves, unfortunately crap rock. Something to aim for this lockdown