Vie in Africa del grado selezionato

This is a 15 bolt sport route on the SW arete of the Mouse.

Start as for Black Labour but climb up left.

Start on the tea ledge on the right of the Gendarme. Starting on the left of the ledge, climb up the left side of the short, undercut section to a break. Follow the vertical crack to the wide rail below the roof. Conjure up some horizontal magic to negotiate the weakness through the roof to the good holds on the lip. Pull through and then left under the next bulge to a vertical break. Easily to the top. Consensus grading needed.

FA by Jarryd New

Grade opinions vary from 6a+ to 6c+. Exposed.

Sit down start with hands on hold low down on the corner. Move slightly diagonally left and top out up the arete.

Sit start and climb up arete.

Sit down start up on arete to top out.

Sit start, climb up on sharp grips to top. This is about 2m left of CLEEROY.

Climbs up the low arête from a sit start. Start low on a big flat ledge & smaller crimp slightly higher for the right and top out.

Left sidepull & right on a big edge, up as for MAD COW.

Start sitting 1m left of the small scoop on some slopers for the left & right. Climb up the layback to the left.

Sit down start with right hand in a shallow pocket and left on a sidepull up to a sloper on the right. Top out.

Climb the prow with next ear for right hand.

Sit-start to the left of the arete and climb straight up.

Climb the left side of the cracked slab.

Sit-start with jugs and climb up the arete.

6B+ originally but majority of ascents on 8a.nu suggest 6c.

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start as for Modell Robber but climb out left through the small roof and finish up left of the arete. "Best of its grade in Rocklands"

Originally graded 6b+. 8a.nu suggests that it might be harder.

Video

Video

Sit start below narrow central pillar. Climb this directly over roof to top out.

Traverse under the first bolt to start. Interesting and sustained sequences on pockets to reach the finish crack.

Techy cruxes, big moves and pumpy . Most satisfying! Past two bolts to funky right traverse. Advised to unclip first bolt after clipping second, and unclip second after clipping third.

Powerful steep crack after the headwall; climbs interestingly and a great mix of tricks required

After a bouldery start, head up and right. Once in the big roof, you will climb the Cape Fear flake (on its left hand side) to pull through at the obvious break at the lip. A few more moves leads to the anchor. A very fine route.

A harder, more direct first pitch to Black Widow.

Start as for Black Widow. After the dark grey face, instead of moving left all the way to the right side of the vague arête, head straight up (via a long throw out left to a large flat hold) and then up to gain an intermittent finger crack. This is about 1.5m right of where Black Widow goes. Climb the tricky crack and straight up to the ledge. Move left to stance. Consensus grading required.

Climbs the center of the wall to the left of 'Picture Book' (about 80m left of 'Fallen Angel'). Scramble up to the base of the wall next to a tree.

1. 35m 26/27 Climb straight up the slab past a peg and 2 bolts to where it eases. Move up and left and climb the steep crack with a tricky move onto the arête. Scramble up 10m to a ledge and rap point.

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Important notes about the abseil are written on the route diagram (link below) in French. Could not accurately translate, sorry.

Recommended equipment:

• 14 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Tsara Airlines

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb the compression arete.

Sit-start with flake and climb up the face.

Sitstart with BH on undercling. Move up to grips on the lip, LH up to Anesthesia's slopey edge and TO.

Stand start up to good grips.

Stand start with left in the undercling heuco and right in edge in heuco. Up and slightly to the left, dyno up to a pocket. A good mat and spotter for this one are essential!

Starts with right in a pocket, make a long move to a higher pocket and finish on good grips.

Start as with Slippery When Dry but dont move up, traverse to the righthand arete and finish as for Footsy.

Straight up the middle of the face, starts in a bowl.

Start as for ART, exit right, horn on the right is off limits.

Start on edge for left and layback for right low down on middle of face, up left to edge and right to slopers, top out. Big protruding rock on left is off route.

Standing Start, left & right hands on a large layback, top out via a huge pig's nose, slightly to left.

Sit start, left hand on low crimp in scoop and right higher on sloping crimp use for left hand on Piss. Move up to slopers and leftish to top out.

Sit down start as for BEEF SAUSAGE, traverse right and finish as for MAD COWS staying low.

Start as for Worlds Apart, but move right and follow the line of bolts to the anchor.

Takes the steep crack through the bulge left of Snake Charmer.

Scramble up to the platform. Straight up the face to the roof. Pull through the roof (micro cams for pro) to the short, fierce crack. Continue up the featured recess then step 1.5m left and straight to the top.

Consensus grading required. Height, finger size and faith in small gear might affect how hard it feels.

A physically and mentally demanding voyage…

Start on Dingiswayo but continue up the big corner and then fight through the slick, undercut open book (take care with cams as the rock is hard and slippery). At the roof rail left to where the finger crack continues up to the final roof. At this point, there is a very narrow horizontal slot for micro cams that are strenuous and fiddly to place. Embrace the run out and traverse left across the tricky face for ±3m to a good foothold and horizontal seam for micro nuts – these features are at a point below a good undercling in the final roof. Head up to the roof, and at the undercling and pull back right through the roof on great holds. Notes: Double ropes recommended. Consensus grading needed – cruxes are about grade 24, but the overall experience is considerably harder.

Start on the left and finish out right.

BS on pinches, up over crack.

BS on sharp crimp pockets.

Sit start with decent holds and climb arete to TO.

Eliminate. Feet on bottom part of boulder left of the crack are off.

on the left side of the amphitheatre climb straight through slopey ledges towards the hole in the roof

Climb the wall behind Maciej mushrooms using underclings to start and a pocket to a jump at the top

Climb up on slippery ledges

Start on the horizontal and reach back to jugs

Start on the brick edge and jump (with the pedestal on) straight up

Start with rail, move up to slot and climb up slightly right.

Start with high rail, climb up on crimps and finish with obvious chicken head.

Start with crimp rail and climb the arete/prow.

On the far right of the Boulder. Start with juggy rail and climb through the roof/overhang.