Ascensioni in Central Western Slope and Plains che possiede Informazioni sui passaggi

Got it doooone! Fantastic route in a ridiculous position. Engaging climbing through the bottom, and then just romp on upwards the sea of rock with endless holds and gear. Plenty of loose rock and no-fall zones, don't me a muppet up there.

The track from Dow's camp is reasonably straightforward and well-cairned. Hike in early, but not so early that you can't see! We were grateful to NOT be doing it under headlamp power, could have been tricky at times.

P1 is great fun, jumping from crack to crack as you make your way up.

P2 is a comfortable 20. Solid fingerlocks and small jams through several steep-ish cruxy sections. It's all there, but will make you feel alive! Sweet lead by James.

P3 tension traverse was surprisingly airy, feels like you're on the verge of getting sucked back out of the corner! The belay gear is...not great. It's fine. You're fine.

P4 wing traverse was one of my most memorable leads. Ran out of slings and used prusik's to extend the last few pieces. Got swooped by 2x wedgetails close enough to feel their wind on my neck before watching them catch a thermal and soar up the Stonewall corner. What a wild place.

P6 - I went way too high traversing across to the exit gully and had a heinous downclimb above a terrible #000 C3. Enough ropedrag that James probably could have gone hands-free for a nice soft catch. Would not recommend...

Topped out as the sun was setting across the plains, then trail-ran down the hill to the fire and dinner. Perfect end to a fantastic trip!

Great adventure climbing! Access is easy with the partially cairned track starting from inside the campsite in a north west direction. First 2 pitches are excellent crack/slab climbing. The traverse pitch is incredible! The rest of the climb is easy however seemed to take a bit of time as we were baking in the sun. The pitches from the traverse onwards seemed to be a bit longer than described in the guide book so make sure you take cordelette.

started up at 7am, finished around 530pm. we managed to pick the starting line well which felt a bit lucky. thoroughly enjoyed the techy choose your own adventure of pitch 1. P2 definitely had spicier moves than P1. P4 was a highlight for me, it felt like that was when the bungles tradventure I'd been promised truly began. only beta I have to share is to not go R off the belay on P6. awesome day out with the wall to ourselves, sparrows, sunshine, abundant hanging belays and a lovely sunset to end it

A great climb, I was a bit nervous beforehand due to the reputation, but it went pretty smoothly in the end. The lefthand, 'rambly' first pitch option was fine, maybe 10 or 12. I got a bit 'Warrumbungled' on the second pitch - probably too far left. Protection at the start of the 3rd pitch was not great. 4th pitch up the groove was amazing - Brendan made it look pretty easy. Climbed into the sun at the top this pitch after being in the shade in the morning. Approximately 6.5 hours bottom to top. Great to do this classic piece of Oz climbing history!

After a good rest day we were much better prepped and had a proper alpine start for this. Had a tourist chopper buzz us at some point. On the start of the 3rd pitch stemming over the mini waterfall my foot blew on dodgy rock and I tumbled about 5m back to the belay. In hind sight it is probably the worst fall I've ever had but luckily I was barely hurt with just a bruised forearm which has yellowed up nicely since. 'With care' is an understatement of the start of pitch 3. Pitch 5 has a fantastic airy crux and is the jewel in this route. We topped out with plenty of light and back on the ground at dusk, then hoofed it back to the car and home

P1+2 only. Excellent climbing so far.

Simul P1+P2 together. Simul 1+2+3 looks totally doable with a large enough rack. Rapped the route due to an approaching storm. Help yourself to our bail gear!

Left Balor hut early at 6am to beat the crowds. Luckily we did, because we managed to get lost on the way there. Started up wrong pitch (stiffer than 8) off to the right of actual. Realised when we got to start of 3rd. High winds in the morning were very chilly, easing up a bit when we went higher and became more protected and the sun came out. Absolute classic, choss and all. Standout pitches for me were pitch 4 and 5. Waited around at the summit until sunset, when the entire party made it up. Descended via Green Glacier as it got darker, totally benighted by the time we got to the second rap. Made it back to camp at 9pm.

Nice little finger jams up the crack!

Quite tricky and technical off balance climbing, often on fragile rock and still a bit dirty, it felt a little dangerous getting to the first bolt (of 6 or 7 I think) as my foot holds starting breaking, far above small cams.

Was climbing Cornerstone Rib as a party of 4 but Dave & I veered onto this without realising. Felt really hard when we thought it was grade 14! Good moves, some old fixed gear (pitons & a carrot) plus small cams. Belay was fine but a bit tight.

First route in the Warrumbungles, Can be climbed in 8 pitches comfortably.So much potential on Bluff mountain for big new routes.

Love at first onsite. If you love crack, you can't really walk past this. Grade was very similar to Frog

Good addition to the bungles . Approx 30m of new climbing. The finger crack is great. The adventure begins on the approach.

Nice hand crack, upper tier a bit dirty

Lead all but P1. Replaced crux anchor. Awesome route and exposure!! Get on it!

Well positioned bolts makes this a pleasant climb. However, just one lower off.

Sustained and solid at the grade. Route and gear finding is often the crux. Thank god for the shiny bolted anchor next to the tree high up - it's the only good bolts on the climb. Great route!

Great climb

Balancy partway up - had a foot slip and barndoored but somehow held on.

Reachy for shorties

Much easier than the thing next door.

Cool little boulder!

lead every pitch, first 4 pitches are superb

Airy in parts. Usual loose blocks.

awesome

Climbed it with Chris Frost who led the crux pitch

Lead P2,P4,P6. P4 is fantastic. Soft for grade.

P1, 3, 5 and 7 with Dr Carl. Awesome! Eight hours on the route. Perfect weather.

Epic adventure up a grand line. This has been on the bucket list for a long time. Superb climbing on all pitches. Start very early. The line wanders a lot so 60m ropes helpful. Take two sets of cams to fist size, double set of wires and 10+ slings. Follow instructions above but If you stand a few metres to left of 'Stone wall Jackson' you can see the old rap bolts/ tat on the slab about 8 metres below where the first belay goes.

The best multi-pitch I have done. Second and fourth pitch were incredible! Route finding was slightly tricky at times but mostly obvious. We took 18 cams (doubles from BD#2 down and one #3) and one set of nuts. This was enough for me. Long day out so start early.

Lead 2nd, the 3rd (abseil) pitch, a 55m 5th pitch and a final 7th pitch. I climbed off route (the whole way I think, too far right) on the 2nd pitch at perhaps grade 19/20, ending up on the rounded R arete of the buttress. Route finding on the first and second pitches is pretty tricky, navigating between alternately overhanging and slabby fridge blocks. No idea how the initial jam crack is stylish in any way, or what's so great about the second pitch (but then I wasn't on it). It would save quite a bit of time to skip the 3rd downwards pitch. I found the hanging belay after the (awkward) abseil to be good enough, I used medium nuts and a low 3 camalot, a .3 or .4 cam would have been handy. We went fairly directly (maybe 10m left) up from the right end of the wing to the summit, avoiding the gully, this did add another tricky move or two below and through the final overhangs.

We used stacks of gear, from small nuts, nuts, small ball nuts, double cams .1 to 3 and a 4, Mic carried tricams too, 15 draws, and double 60m ropes. The route is in full sun from early morning, and it got pretty hot, we had about 6L of water total.

The best route in the Bungles for sure! A tricky first 2 pitches, the second pitch being significantly harder than the first but still very managable! The abseil pitch is kinda difficult to manage, with 2 ledges to choose from, the lower of the 2 makes the best belay! 4rd and 5th pitch are mega classic with great exposure and awesome climbing the while way! We got mildly off route on the 6th pitch, not following the gully and going a bit high! a big block broke off just before I reached the belay while seconding and i took a relatively small but crazy scary fall right onto wills belay! Very glad it held! Being slightly off route meant i led a very scary traverse back into the gully at much higher than grade 13 that the pitch is graded at! Racing the sun will lead the last pitch basically as a solo putting no gear in to save time! Because the pitch was so easy it made it super enjoyable! If you have a spare day in the Bungles, definately give it a try, as easy bail in possible after the second pitch!

I legitimately don't understand how we managed to bumble our way up this. What a stellar climb!!! First grade 18 trad route and also our 11th day ever trad climbing, four days of which had been a part of this Bungles trip. I got to lead the stunning and difficult second pitch and ridiculously incredible fourth pitch beneath the wing along with a slightly off route sixth pitch and fantastic speed ascent of the last pitch placing no gear so we could both top out before dark. Harry led the rest. Definitely a must do for everyone as even us mere sporty sport climbers got to experience the masterpiece that is Flight of the Phoenix and have an absolute blast. Even had three eagles circling us at one point for the full experience. Get on it!

The position was fabulous and the adventure was exactly what I was hoping for. Honestly though I didn't love the climbing. The rising traverse pitch was great but much of the rest of the climbing was medicore.

Pulled off a microwave size block about halfway up the route which was pretty exciting.

A totally awesome climb. It was the full on adventure that I was expecting. The first couple of pitches were more tricky than I was expecting looking from the ground and the climb continued to be pretty game on until it backed off a bit for the last 2 pitches.

Massive day out! First 2 pitches are good but p2 is the hardest 18 I've done. Belay at the bottom of the wing pitch was pretty sketch, left the rope through the abseil point as a back up until I had some good gear in on p4. Good climbing and crazy position on pitch 4 and 5. Top 3 pitches were pretty average but we were stoked to top out after doing the last 2 by headtorch!

2nd pitch was very fun, finger cracks, stemming, big moves over bulges - wing was incredible jug hauling! Lead all but 5th ! Would love to climb again and down climb the rappel

First route on the bungles trip. cool cruxy first pitches then wandering forever up the grand wall. The rappel tatt should probably be replaced now.