Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | Falesia | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7a | ★★★ DNA
The island's most popular, steep tufa climb. A good introduction to the style. In peak season, come early for a quick onsight or join the crowd until the sun hits. Tracciata: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2001 Mant: 2016 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Mad Max
FA: D. Papageorgiou | 15m, 8 | Merenda | ||
7a | ★★★ Trela
Being less steep than the 7's to the left, Trela still requires a lot of endurance or better, some creative kneebars. Take the rightmost line of the shared start with Punto Caramelo and Tufantastic. [Rope beta: A 70m rope is more than enough for leading and lowering (even though the guidebook says 40m). BUT be aware that stripping QDs might need more rope depending on technique.] Tracciata: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Kastor
Tracciata: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2000 | 15m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Kerveros
Tracciata: Chris Seekircher & Susanne Kolmbauer, 2003 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Viagraman
| 30m, 12 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Melodrama
Pumpy and consistent on blobs and a tufa fin. A good line except for one section at the start where it merges with the route to the left. Tracciata: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2011 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Maracuja
Tricky, vertical climbing on edges. To the right of El Schuppo. FA: Uwe Eder & Zimmermann | 17m, 5 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
7a | ★★★ Yellow Submarine
Relatively easy first half and a long crux sequence at mid height. | 21m, 7 | Berdorf | ||
7a | ★★ KalyPige
Tracciata: Michel Piola, 2004 | 35m, 17 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Ricounet
Tufa blobs lead to a tufa-fin chimney. Tracciata: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
8 | ★★★ Dampfhammer
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1979 | 14m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ Dionysos
Tracciata: Aris Theodoropoulos & Thomas Michaelides, 2000 | 22m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Plan Z dos
| 28m, 13 | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ ¡Ay Mamita!
A bit run-out at the top. | 35m, 12 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★ Lo Deje To Blanco
| 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Ixion
A fantastic route that offers technical climbing with some thin moves in the first half. Sustained second half up the cracks and small tufas. Easier for the tall. Tracciata: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2005 | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena
| 30m, 10 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★ Crisis
A good introduction to the climbing in this sector. Good value for the grade. Tracciata: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2011 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Xoris Oikto
Tracciata: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7a | ★★★ Purgandus Populus
1
6a
2
7a
About as much technical, vertical, slab as you can put into 40m of rock. Good value for the grade. Tie stopper knot. | 40m, 2, 15 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★ Que pasa neng
| 20m | Margalef | ||
7a | ★★ Omero
A technical wall climb. Tracciata: Andrea di Bari & team, 1997 | 22m, 10 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Klemeni Omorfia
Tracciata: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7a | ★★★ Takla Makan
This short but relentless Berdorf classic is infamous for its low first crux. FA: Raymond Haupert & Jacques Welter, 1984 Tracciata: Jeannot Kartheiser, 1984 | 15m, 6 | Berdorf | ||
7a | ★★★ Las bolas del chino
1
6b+
2
7a
Long climb with an intermediate anchor where the real difficulties start.
Tracciata: Timy | 32m, 2, 16 | Caimari | ||
7a | ★★ Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou
Tracciata: D. Winkler, J.-B. Winkler & Michel Piola, 2002 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Lolita
Probably not your first 7a. A stiff intro, some intimidating moves on mushrooms and a bouldery crux higher up. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards. Tracciata: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Sendero Luminoso
Amazing and varied climb. A must-do. | 37m | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ Thimari
Tracciata: Guy Albert, Olivier Didon, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 30m, 8 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Brigadistak
Thin and techy on great quality, vertical rock. | 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
8- | ★★ Blutspur
FA: U. Klisa | 14m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★★ Poema de Roca (L1) | 23m, 9 | El Chorro | ||
6c+ - 7a+ | ★★★ Kyparissi
Guidebooks 6c+/7a+, 8a.nu consensus 6c+/7a. Tracciata: D. Stravogenis, 2005 | 15m, 7 | Kyparissi | ||
7a | ★★ Top of the rock
Very polished start with insecure clipping positions. The climbing improves significantly after bolt 3. | 30m, 13 | Chulilla | ||
6c+/7a | ★★★ Fun and Fuck
Pumpy route with a couple of small cruxes. Tracciata: Remy & partners, 2017 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ La Vagoneta
Use the left-hand ladder to start. | 20m | Tenerife | ||
7a | ★★ Bis a bis
| 20m, 7 | Rodellar | ||
8 | ★★★ Computerspiele
| 23m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
8 | ★★ Reinhard-Karl-Gedächtnisweg mit Dach | 16m, 9 | Humboldtbunker | ||
6c+/7a | ★★★ Mystère et Boule de Gomme
Guidebooks 6c+/7a, 8a.nu consensus 6c+/7a. Tracciata: Vincent Lauzon, 2014 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Globus
A hard slab on the orange-grey wall, requiring good footwork. Then sustained and steep climbing on good pockets. Tracciata: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 35m, 13 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Elefantenhimmel
Infamous hard anchor-clip and possible rope drag problems. Otherwise great tufa climbing at around 6b+. Tracciata: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 2001 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Aeolia
Great, playful moves inside and next to the diagonal tufa corner. Tracciata: Antonis Skevofylakas & Thomas Michaelides, 2002 | 30m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
8 | ★★★ Ejakulation
Two harder sections, first face climbing on crimpers, second a litte overhang to the anchor, separated by a no-hand-rest. FA: R. Kraft, 1997 | 18m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ Yoko M-ono
Tracciata: Micha Schreiber, 2015 | 22m, 11 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Blue agave
| 35m, 17 | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ El guerrero pacífico
Movimientos largos en agarres grandes. Bastante suave para el grado (7a) indicado en la guía local. Tracciata: Ramón Navarro "Ramonet" | Bellus-Alboy | |||
7a | ★★★ La Javanaise
Great climbing with no tricks. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ Mike
A technical wallclimb with several hard parts and a distinctive long move. Unclipping the first QD after reaching the 2nd and extending the 3rd QD will greatly reduce rope drag. Tracciata: Mike Moes, 1992 | 27m, 11 | Berdorf | ||
8 | ★★ Brothers in Arms
FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
8 | ★★ Heldbräu
FFA: Klaus Kaumeier, 1993 | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ El Oasis
Bolts a bit off to the side. Polished. | 27m | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ Santana
FA: Bernhard Schiestl, 1996 | 22m, 10 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent
| 20m | Margalef | ||
8- | ★★★ Affenschaukel
An absolute classic test piece for the grade. FA: Max Hofmann & Ludwig Höllein, 1933 FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981 | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★ Fouska
Start in the back left of the little cave. Up steeply on big jugs to a contorted finish. Tracciata: John Mendez, 2001 | 12m, 7 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Cigarillo
Tracciata: 2002 | 28m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Cojón prieto
At right side of priminent corner along right leaning flake. | 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★ Saint Georges Picos
Classic. Hard for the first four clips. | 20m | Céüse | ||
8- | ★★ Fee Amaryllis
FA: I. Wagner & Bastian Wagner, 2018 | 13m, 6 | Rochlitzer Berg | ||
7a | ★★★ Nymph
An overhanging, quite gymlike climb. Tracciata: Markus Stofer, Michael Schuh, Claudia Voth & Gavvy King, 2003 | 20m, 6 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Ananda
| 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ Sens Unique
A long, vertical journey, on smooth orange rock, mostly requiring good footwork and routefinding skills. Tracciata: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2009 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Makari
Short but intense and pumpy with a reachy crux towards the end of the organ pipes. Tracciata: Remy & partners, 2017 | 18m, 8 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa
| 20m, 6 | Siurana | ||
8 | ★★ Gilgamesch
Some nice pocket pulling which ends much too soon. | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★★ La Danza del Maestrale | 25m, 12 | Ogliastra | ||
{FB} 6A+ | ★★★ Blue Sky of Mine | 8m | Magic Wood | ||
7a | ★★★ Estupendiux
| 25m, 10 | Patones | ||
7a | ★★ Red Sea Secrets
Good route with a juggy tufa start and a technical upper half. Unfortunately, very poor and sparse bolt placement makes it hard to enjoy if you're not very comfortable in the grade. Tracciata: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2009 | 28m, 7 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ La Morena del Muntsant
| 41m | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★ Chuck Notis
Tracciata: Micha Schreiber, 2015 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Attero Dominatus | 10m, 9 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Alkionida
Tracciata: A. Skevofilakas - K. Labadarios, 2004 | 30m | Ymittos | ||
8 | ★★ Altweiberriß
| 14m | Unteres Inntal | ||
7a | ★★ Fausses fractures
| Vosges du Midi | |||
7a | ★★★ Psili Makilopardali
Tracciata: Remy & partners, 2016 | 32m, 18 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Indian Holidays
| 27m, 11 | Margalef | ||
7a | ★★★ Mauerläufer | 35m, 14 | Vättis | ||
7a | ★★★ Turbo Cibi Facho
Super popular and getting a little shiny these days. Committing slab to finish. | 25m | Buoux | ||
7a/a+ | ★★★ Tsoutsouni
Guidebooks 7a/+. 8a.nu consensus 7a/+. Tracciata: Y.+C.Remy, 2013 | 25m, 15 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Cargol Treu Banya
| 13m | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★ Rokodromo
Tracciata: Ramón Navarro | 10m, 5 | Bellus-Alboy | ||
7a | ★★★ Chachi qui Chapi
Tracciata: Juanjo, Barril & A. Ribera | 16m, 8 | Margalef | ||
7a | ★★★ Ermiñaño
| 28m, 13 | Margalef | ||
8-/8 | ★★ Baggi Ned
Mant: Dietmar Heidl | 14m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★★ Ioli
An awkward crux at the start leads up to tufa-land with big tufas and organpipes. Hard exit over the bulge right before the anchor. Tracciata: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 30m, 12 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ kun
| 28m, 10 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Redders
Wonderful line up in the centre. Will test your perseverance at the top before you can clip the chains. Has suffered from many ascents and is now competing for most polished route of El Chorro. Still worth doing! | 30m | El Chorro | ||
7a | ★★★ Cantina Marina
| 38m, 19 | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ Passé décomposé
popular line, well used | 25m | Vosges du Midi | ||
7a | ★★ Desperate Sex Wifes
Tracciata: Remy & partners, 2018 | 15m, 8 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Ange
| 30m, 11 | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ Egopone
Tracciata: A.Luisier | 17m, 7 | Basler Jura | ||
8- | ★★ Cool Runnings
FA: K. Oelze, 2001 | 20m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
8 | ★★ Heinz Schenk
| 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a/a+ | ★★★ Thanks George
Guidebooks 7a/+, 8a.nu consensus 7a/+. Tracciata: C. + C. Remy, 2012 | 25m, 16 | Kyparissi | ||
7a | ★★ Magic line
Incredible climbing (and chimneying) on massive tufas. | 30m | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ Yo el halcón
| 5 | Bellus-Alboy |