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Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.13c | |||||
Second Plancha Wall | |||||
5.13c | The Gnostic
| 26m, 9 | |||
5.13b | |||||
Second Plancha Wall | |||||
5.13b | Wicked Sister
Follows cold shuts up the center of the wall. | 26m, 9 | |||
5.12d | |||||
Second Plancha Wall | |||||
5.12d | Hair Shirt
| 26m, 9 | |||
5.12c | |||||
Second Plancha Wall | |||||
5.12c | The Butcher Block
| ||||
5.12b | |||||
First Plancha Wall | |||||
5.12b | Lazarus
| 17m, 8 | |||
5.12b | ★★ La Vida Gatos
| 18m, 6 | |||
The Ripped Wall | |||||
5.12b | El Sendero del Vagabundo
Climb the (shared with next three climbs) easy access pitch, go all the way to the left end of the ramp, then up. | 2 | |||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.12b | The Passion
The belay station is up high on the wall next to a little tree, get there by hiking the 3rd class ramp or by climbing El Balota, Mexico on Flames or Mugre Mugre. Make sure to take a daisy chain with you for belaying. | 27m, 9 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.12b | The Plague
Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb “Cabeza de Chivo” or Selam to access. | 40m, 10 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Tanga en T
FA: Mario Torres | 37m, 10 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ The Shroud
(I think this was originally a 2-pitch route, later extended to 4 pitches.) | 130m, 4, 10 | |||
5.12a | |||||
Second Plancha Wall | |||||
5.12a | Lybian Sibyl
| 26m, 7 | |||
The Ripped Wall | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Ripped Wall
Climb shared easy access pitch (5.8), then on ledge traverse 25ft left before heading up. | 91m, 3, 8 | |||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Pentathlon
| ||||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.12a | ★★ El Balota
| 26m, 10 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Bakai
Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb Cabeza or Selam to access. | 30m, 13 | |||
5.12a R | |||||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.12a R | ★★★ Cabeza de Chivo
80m rope recommended, if you go to the route's reunion (and not that of the neighbouring line) FA: Francisco Medina | 44m, 12 | |||
5.11d | |||||
The Ripped Wall | |||||
5.11d | Animal Party
Few bolts per pitch, home-made funky hangars. R-rated. | 120m, 4, 7 | |||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.11d | ★★ Faded Love
Shares anchor with "Milk Cow Blues". | 26m, 11 | |||
5.11d | Caguaman
| 26m, 11 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.11d | ★★★ Don Quixote
| 24m, 8 | |||
Surf Board | |||||
5.11d | ★★ XL Puff Sneaker
FA: Dane Bass, Matt Grecco & Ralph Vega | 21m, 6 | |||
5.11 | |||||
Second Plancha Wall | |||||
5.11 | Country Fuck
Climb up easy ramp to left-most bolt line. | 24m, 5 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.11 | Part Time Amateur
Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall". | 27m, 8 | |||
5.11c | |||||
First Plancha Wall | |||||
5.11c | Hootenanny
| 17m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Mi Vida Loca
| 18m, 7 | |||
The Ripped Wall | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Biaji's Boulevard
After climbing easy access pitch, trend immediately up and left to the first bolt. | 64m, 2, 5 | |||
5.11c | ★ Lopin the Mule
Same first pitch as "Strokin' the Bishop". | 91m, 3, 15 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Strokin' the Bishop
| 75m, 3, 12 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ Mexico in Flames
1
5.11c
2
5.11a
The REAL GRADE of this route si 5.11c. If you decide to stay on the blank face of the wall and DO NOT use the dihedral/arète on the right side of the final section the grade is harder 5.12a/b but this is a variation and should not be considered the official grade of the route since it is not the best beta. | 58m, 2, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Tilting at Windmills
Nice line, resistance on decent holds with small feet. High first bolt- use the 1st (rusty) bolt of "Silverfish" if reqd. | 27m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Silverfish
Route runs close to and shares anchor with "Tilting at Windmills". Rusty bolts. | 27m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★ Immaculate Conception
1
5.10a
2
5.11c
Tracciata: Alex Catlin | 55m, 2, 7 | |||
5.11b | |||||
First Plancha Wall | |||||
5.11b | Cat in a Can
| 18m, 5 | |||
The Ripped Wall | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Team Ryobi
Climb easy access pitch (do I sound like I'm repeating myself?), then climb face at right end of ramp. (Scary runout to anchors.) | 2 | |||
The Flamingo Wall | |||||
5.11b | ★ The Flamingo Wall
1
5.8
2
5.8
3
5.11b
The first two pitches make a nice 2-pitch relaxed 5.8 climb. Bolts that are just to the left of where you pass through a small cave to continue up canyon. First two pitches are easy slab, third pitch is long (112ft) up thin face. | 55m, 3, 16 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Bad Cop, No Donut
Start on the dark grey streak. FA: Rick Ross & Dane Bass | 24m, 8 | |||
5.11a | |||||
Suicide Overlook | |||||
5.11a | Booby Trapped
Starts 40ft up the gully to the left of the overlook. | 23m, 7 | |||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.11a | (2nd pitch of Mexico in Flames)
This is the 2nd pitch of the 2 pitch climb "Mexico in Flames" that starts on the "Lower Virgin Wall". Info here for route-finding ease. | ||||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Sancho Panza
Slab with good holds, feet become more challenging at the top of the face. Very high first bolt - can use the 1st (rusty) bolt of "Silverfish" if needed. 5th bolt very loose, needs gluing. 8m+ runout to the reunion, a thread through can be used to reduce this runout. Reunion poorly bolted; rappel or lower on one ring to avoid a curly rope. | 33m, 6 | |||
Cat Wall | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Blind Faith
Needs a 70m rope. Pitch 2, at roof -- 3 lines of bolts diverge, left goes nowhere, center goes over roof at 5.11a, right goes around roof and back at 5.10d. Also, a 70m rope won't descend the first pitch, rap to the anchor for A Gringo At My Baby instead. Tracciata: Alex Catlin & nathalie challulau | 130m, 4, 13 | |||
5.11- | |||||
The Flamingo Wall | |||||
5.11- | ★★★ Bond of Peace
1
5.9
2
5.9
3
5.11-
Has a metal nameplate on the wall. Second route left of the tunnel. 1st pitch (5.9): 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. 2nd pitch (5.9): 12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. 3rd pitch (5.11-): 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Tracciata: Burdon, Brown & Dakota Walz, 2022 | 79m, 3, 12 | |||
5.10d | |||||
The Flamingo Wall | |||||
5.10d | ★★★ The Capstone
Walk up through the tunnel and continue up and left onto a nice ledge. This is the left most route on the ledge, has a metal nameplate on the wall. | 10 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Trouble at the Border
FA: Jeff Jackson | 18m, 6 | |||
5.10 | |||||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.10 | Virgin Uknown 1
| 24m | |||
5.10c | |||||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.10c | ★★ San Antonio Rose
| 30m, 11 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Milk Cow Blues
FA: Rodman | 26m, 10 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Resurrection
| 23m, 6 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Mugre
Start on "Mugre Mugre", but instead of trending left on the upper flake, climb straight up for the final bolt. | 19m, 7 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Mugre Mugre
Near the top, follow the flake that trends left to the anchors of "Mexico in Flames" | 29m, 9 | |||
5.10c | Monarca | 46m, 10 | |||
Cat Wall | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Catwalk
Excellent route with nice holds! Shares reunion with "Spin Doctor" FA: Mario Torres | 24m, 7 | |||
5.10b | |||||
Beyond the Ripped | |||||
5.10b | ★ Punto de Inspiracion
1
5.8
2
5.6
3
5.10b
Subiendo 10 a 15 minutos de la ultima pared llamada: Ripped Wall. Encontraras un Multilargo divertido y con una bella recompensa visual desde lo mas alto de una terraza comoda sobre un pilar, ubicado en lo mas profundo del cañon de la Virgen. Se compone de 3 largos con un nivel máximo de 5.10b. Advertencia: Tener cuidado con la rocas sueltas en las repisas de área de belay, ya que no es muy transitada. FA: Magic Ed & ISMAEL GARZA | 91m, 3, 12 | |||
Venom Wall | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ Nauyaca | 30m, 13 | |||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Mr Gilberto
Tracciata: Marco Curti, Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Paola Fanton & Luca Leoni | 34m, 13 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Chilifluris Way
Ruta que sale para la izquierda y pasa por un pequeño diedro, para volver a salir hacia la izquierda. FA: Mario Cantu & Diego Aldrete Isaac | 30m, 11 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Flying Scorpion
FA: Dane Bass | 27m, 8 | |||
Cat Wall | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Penitente
The third route going up the staircase. Its a very nice and easy roof with huge holds, easy to read. FA: Nathalie Challulau - 2002 | 21m, 7 | |||
Surf Board | |||||
5.10b | ★★ The Popsicle Kings
FA: Dane Bass, Matt Grecco & Ralph Vega | 23m, 6 | |||
5.10a | |||||
The Flamingo Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★★ El Abuelito de Yaveh
Ed (FA) say 5.10b/c, Dane say 5.9. | 24m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Barkin' for Martin
Ed (FA) say 5.10b. Dane says 5.9. | 24m, 7 | |||
Venom Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Chirrionera
Last (upper most) route on “Venom Wall”. Última (de más arriba) ruta en "Venom Wall". Tracciata: Antonio Gonzalez, 2018 FFA: Antonio Gonzalez, 2018 FA: Antonio Gonzalez, 2018 | 30m, 13 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Crotalus
Has a metal nameplate on the wall. Tiene placa metálica con el nombre en la pared. Latest cleanup performed March 27th, 2022 Última limpieza realizada en Marzo 27, 2022 From last bolt to the anchor aim to arrive on the right side of the anchor. De la última placa a la reunión intenta llegar por el lado derecho de la reunión. Tracciata: antonio gonzalez, 2018 FFA: antonio gonzalez, 2018 FA: antonio gonzalez, 2018 | 30m, 13 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Coralillo
Has a metal nameplate on the wall. Tiene placa con el nombre en la pared. Bring a couple of long draws for the 9th and 10th bolt if you have them. Si puedes, lleva un par de bandas(cintas) largas para las placas 9 y 10. Latest cleanup on March 20th, 2022 Limpieza más reciente en Marzo 20, 2022 Spoiler alert: *run-out on easy terrain from 8th to 9th bolt. *hebra en terreno tranquilo de la placa 8 a la 9. No more loose rocks and thorny plants, Enjoy! Ya sin piedra suelta ni plantas espinozas, Disfruten! Tracciata: antonio gonzalez, 2018 FFA: antonio gonzalez, 2018 FA: Antonio Gonzalez, 2018 | 30m, 10 | |||
5.10a | ★ Mamba Negra | 30m, 13 | |||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Mr Jesus
| 29m, 8 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Selam
Climb clean face to obvious overhang, pull overhang and finish up slab above to anchors. Recomended 80m rope. Knot the end of your rope. With shorter than an 80m rope, bring 2nd up and rappel twice using the anchor of "Flying Scorpions" to the right. With a long/stretchy 70m rope, and a heavy climber, you might make it within acceptable scrambling distance of the ground. | 39m, 12 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Charity
Tracciata: Alex Catlin | 46m, 8 | |||
5.10a | 50/50
Tracciata: Dane Bass | 32m, 10 | |||
Cat Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★★ 31 Foot Smurf
Tracciata: Dane Bass & Rick Ross | 30m, 10 | |||
5.10a | ★ DNA-DRD-2
Starts below a detached block about 8feet up the wall, five feet right of A Gringo Ate My Baby, then heads up and slightly left to a thin crack. A bit run-out in places. FA: Matt Greco & Dane Bass - 2005 | 30m, 7 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Putas de Fuego
Tracciata: Ralph Vega & Harvey Peña | 30m, 10 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ La Flakita
Another classic in EPC. Climbs the big obvious flake feature. Don't wander onto the face, just really get into that crack. Dane's book puts this as 5.11c, and Simeon copies this error. Ed and Frank give it 5.10c. If it is 5.10c, it is the softest 5.10c in the world. FA: Harvey Pena & Ralph Vega | 27m, 10 | |||
Surf Board | |||||
5.10a | FnF Bomb
Comparte reunion con XL Puff Sneaker Tracciata: Dane Bass & Ralph Vega | 29m, 8 | |||
5.9 | |||||
The Flamingo Wall | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Nudillo Sangriento
Escalada genial con algunas características de grieta. Cool climbing with crack features. IT IS LOCATED A FEW METERS ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE MARICAHI, ON THE FLAMINGOS WALL Tracciata: Frank Madden, 24 Gen 2023 | 26m, 11 | |||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Chicaboom Nights
| 27m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Mr Patacca
| 29m, 9 | |||
Lower Virgin Wall | |||||
5.9 | ★★ A Fistful of Pesos
Another retro-bolted trad route. | 26m, 6 | |||
Cat Wall | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Spin Doctor
FA: Dane Bass | 23m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Skairdy Kat
Second route going up the staircase. FA: Richard Ross | 29m, 8 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Cat Daddy
Listed as 5.9+ in the (Ed's) book, the route setter (Dane Bass) calls it an honest 5.8. (Dane's book lists it as 5.9) The name of the route is written with red ink (hard to find). FA: Dain Bass; Dane Bass & Sue Kligerman | 30m, 9 | |||
5.9 | ★ Nasty Screwdriver
FA: Dane Bass | 30m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★ A Gringo Ate My Baby
Starts just ro the right of Blind Faith. Climb the crack up to the small right-facing corner to a crack finish. FA: Dane Bass & Matt Grecco | 30m, 8 | |||
5.8 | |||||
The Flamingo Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★ El Mariachi
| 24m, 11 | |||
5.8 | Expresso
Three routes to the left before the tunnel. Slab climb on vegetated terrain. Left of “Bond of Peace”. FA: Walden Jones, 2019 | ||||
Upper Virgin Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Sons of Thunder
FA: Mike Burdon, Feb 2016 | 24m, 6 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Gracias Mi Amor
| 34m, 12 | |||
Cat Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★ The Cat's Meow
Starts where the staircase hits the wall. FA: Sue Kligerman & Dane Bass - 2003 | 24m, 11 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Eterna Luz
Starts on top of a large boulder, with a high first bolt. Good climbing on good holds -- though still quite sharp. FA: Sean Hible & Mike Burdon | 30m, 9 | |||
Surf Board | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Doof Crack
The obvious crack up the right side of the Surf Board. Dane says 5.7, Ed 5.9. Averaged to 5.8. FA: Matt Grecco, Ralph Vega & Dane Bass | 27m, 5 |
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