Vie come trad in Trident Kloof

Start 5m to the left of the first pitch of 'Headache', where there is a small recess leading up to a smooth face. Ascend easy rock for about 9m to a large ledge below the recess.

1. 30m 17 Gain the recess by a difficult layback move and continue up the face just to the right of the recess for about 5m before traversing back left into it. Climb up for 3m, step out left onto the arete and continue up a further 2m to the slanting overlap at the top of the recess, where a small nut runner can be placed. Move up a few meters and then step out left onto the steep face. Climb up this, diagonally left for the first 5m and then diagonally back right and up to a small stance with thread belay about 5m left of the stance on top of pitch 2 of HEADACHE.

2. 24m 17 (Same as variation for pitch 3 of 'Headache') Ascend diagonally leftward into small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out right and ascend steep face and then continue more easily to the top.

The route starts about 20m downstream of 'George' midway between two large trees, of trunk diameters approx. 3/4 to 1m. Ascend easy rock to a rock ledge about 9m.

1. 18m 11 Follow the line of a very definite corner vertically up from the ledge to a small stance where the corner ends in an overhang.

2. 3m 16 Ascend to a narrow ledge to the left of the overhang at the top of the sloping slab, slightly to left of the start.

3. 12m 8 Traverse 14m left into prominent crack/ 'Easy Option'.

Variations:

3a. 18m 17 For an independent finish traverse left 6m from the stance at top of Pitch 2. Then ascend into a small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out to the right and ascend a steep face (strenuous) to a big ledge where a small block rests. This pitch is midway between pitch 2 above and the crack of 'Easy Option'.

3b. 18m 17 From the top of pitch 2 continue up crack directly above to top. This is a more direct finish than 3a above.

1. 12m 10 Ascend rough rock to top.

The route is located between 'George' and 'Headache'. Between these climbs prominent overhangs cross the face about 1/3 to 2/3 way up. The first overhang is passed by climbing the same recess used by the first pitch of 'Headache', but 3m to the right. The route avoids the second overhang by traversing across the undercut face between the overhangs and ascending to a prominent nose.

1. [18] 15m

   Start from same ledge as 'Headache' but 3m to right. Ascend white recessed face, past fixed piton 3m up to a small stance (piton belay).

2. [X15,A1] 12m

   Diagonally right, 9m up. Traverse right around rib into crack. Ascend crack then traverse about 3m across face with 3 pitons (A1). The piton crack used is 1,5m above the undercut bottom edge of the face. Climb diagonally right from the last piton into a shallow recess. Ascend the recess to overhang and then swing out to right onto tip of nose. (Piton belay - this stance is 6m to left of stance at top of pitch 3 of 'George').

3. [10] 15m

   Ascend sloping face to top, finishing with short chimney.

Variations: 2a. 18 Instead of traversing on aid, continue up for 8m, then move right across wall over to the nose. 2b and 3b. 25m 19 Instead of traversing right on Pitch 2, climb directly up the flared crack to the top.

Start 3m left of 'George'.

1. 15m 18 On the left side of the grey slab is a thin crack. Climb this to a ledge with two small trees.

2. 40m 21 Take off from the left end of the ledge and climb up 5m to a mini-stance. Move diagonally right for a few moves then up to an incut rail (good friend placements). Traverse right for one meter then move up using a layback hold (to avoid 'George'). Climb up diagonally left and then up the grey slab to the top. (Avoid the arete, finish up a grassy break.)

Note: This route is not well protected.

The climb is immediately adjacent to 'Trident Chimney'. The entire route follows the face of the rock wall facing upstream due to its right-angled bend. (See location of 'Trident Chimney').

1. [14] 12m

   Up sloping grey slab starting on right and bearing diagonally left. A study in thin climbing. A ledge and small tree for belay.

2. [14] 15m

   Up corner on right side of ledge to overhang, step out to left and to top of gendarme with a big tree as belay. (Strenuous.)

3. [15] 9m

   A few meters up rock face behind tree, short traverse to left and follow a deep sharp crack to ledge with a very large detached but substantial block as belay.

4. [9] 15m

   Up in corner to summit.

Approximately 50m downstream from the start of the main rock face on the right hand side of the kloof the rock wall makes a double right angle bend first into the kloof then back to its normal line parallel with the kloof. At the internal angle of this bend is a deep and prominent chimney with various chockstones caught in it. The route follows the chimney to the top. Climb out on right at top.

Note: There is loose rock in the chimney requiring care.

The climb is situated 5m to the left of 'Neptune', just to the left of the large poised block. The climb follows the most feasible line on the large bare face between 'Trident Chimney' and 'Neptune'.

1. 22m 10 From the beacon up the left hand crack of a fault line to take off, then straight up for 9m, keeping well left of large poised block. At the level of the top of the block, traverse 9m left and up onto a large ledge with a tree belay.

2. 25m 11 Walk along the ledge to the right, up and around on broken mass of jutting out rock then diagonally up to the right and through a 3m high flat-backed V-shaped recess. From the top of this down 1,5m to the left to a small tree on a small stance. tree and nut belay.

3. 34m 15 Up from tree for 3m, then diagonally left towards a conspicuous nose 3m or so away. Up onto the nose, then ascend vertically for 18m until a ledge obscured by a vine hanging down the face is reached. From the ledge traverse 3m right to a platform. Up a few meters and scramble 6m diagonally to the left over blocks to a tree belay.

Note: In the opening ascent a sling tied to the vine was the only protection found after a 22m run-out, hence the climb's name.

The climb is situated on the centre of the face between 'Trident Ridge' and 'Trident Chimney'. It starts at a point where the bottom of the face is slightly undercut.

1. 14m 13 Ascend a steep grey face, passing to the right of a large poised block, traverse right under a small overhang and thence up to a comfortable stance having a stout tree on it.

2. 15m 15 Starting about 2,5m to left of tree, ascend to overhang, then traverse right to base of open book. The open book is the crux of the pitch. It ends on a narrow ledge (stance).

3. 30m 13 Traverse right past overhanging recess for about 8m and then ascend 12m bearing slightly left until a smaller recess (which was also passed at a lower level during the traverse) is reached. There is a small tree in the recess a few meters higher. Traverse left onto a small exposed buttress and continue up to a stance about 3m higher in grassy cubby hole.

4. 9m 6 Ascend diagonally to the right on rough granulated rock to the summit.

Variations:

1a. 11 There are easier variations on either side of Pitch 1.

2a. 6 The open book of Pitch 2 can be avoided by traversing left at its base onto easy rock which continues to the narrow ledge.

3a. 11 Instead of traversing left onto "exposed buttress" in Pitch 3, continue up recess past the small tree.

The climb starts about 10m to the right (upstream) of the start of 'Neptune'.

1. 25m 13 Climb face 10m, traverse right 3m and move up to large ledge and stance.

2. 20m 13 Move up 2m, traverse left 3m into shallow recess. Climb recess and small face to stance.

3. 22m 15 Ascend face moving about 2m to the left then diagonally up to the right. Traverse 3m left then vertically up to the top.

Start just right of 'Neptune'.

1. 25m 15 Climb good-looking recess 2m upstream of 'Neptune' for 20m. Traverse right immediately below 'Neptune' ledge. Stance at end of ledge.

2. ?m 19 Climb left hand weakness immediately above pillaret to good ledge (good well-rounded grips). Traverse right to small tree and up grey slab to obvious traverse line left. Traverse left for 4,5m. Stance below first recess (parallel to 'Neptune' recess).

3. ?m 13 Climb recess for 3m. Move diagonally up and right to top.

At the upper reaches of Trident Kloof a steep grassy gully enters the kloof on the right side opposite the entrance of a well-wooded side kloof on the left side. This gully is bounded on the downstream side by a steep rock wall about 40m long terminating in 'Trident Chimney'. Starting at a point near the lower portion of the gully where it reaches the bottom of Trident kloof, the climb goes up the main rock face adjacent to the ridge bounding the gully. The route is not well defined and a fair amount of variation is possible, becoming more difficult downstream.

15m downstream of 'Swiss Army Knife' is a gully. Walk up gully for 10m to the start of rock proper.

1. 18m 13 Climb the corner formed by a left slanting crack and a face to the left of it for 10m. Exit onto big ledge to the right. Walk along ledge for 8m to a broken corner.

2. 30m 14 Climb broken corner and follow recess above to top. Tree belay.

Note: Surprisingly good climbing on clean rock. 2 very old pitons were found on pitch 2.

When descending from the lower crags on the right hand side of the kloof, a steep slab on the left hand side is encountered.

1. [13] 10m Climb up the middle of the slab.

1. [11] 18m

   A slight recess midway between the normal start and 'Bat's Overhang' takes one from the ground to a point about three-quarters way along the traverse pitch.

2. 18m 7 Traverse left, gaining height at the same time, to a small ledge of white rock 6m up. (Fixed piton.)

3. 12m 13 Ascend the steep red face above the stance on small but sharp grips, and finish up a crack 3m to the left of the start of the pitch.

Crack/chimney with large wedged block 12m downstream from 'Convalescence'. The climb finishes through the first obvious break in the overhangs to the right of 'Convalescence'.

1. 18m 7 Follow crack to block (one can pass between block and face). Gain top of block via its right hand face. Continue up nose, starting a few meters to right of stance on large ledge.

2. 15m 7 It is possible , by ascending small white recess on right side of face, to pass to the right of the main overhangs.

The climb is immediately adjacent to 'Trident Chimney'. The entire route follows the face of the rock wall facing upstream due to its right-angled bend. (See location of 'Trident Chimney').

1. [14] 12m

   Up sloping grey slab starting on right and bearing diagonally left. A study in thin climbing. A ledge and small tree for belay.

2. [15] 15m

   Up corner on right side of ledge, then ±3,5m traverse right onto ridge and continue up steep rock with good grips.

3. [15] 9m

   A few meters up rock face behind tree, short traverse to left and follow a deep sharp crack to ledge with a very large detached but substantial block as belay.

4. [9] 15m

   Up in corner to summit.

The climb is situated just below 'Easy Way Out', starting behind prominent pinnacle.

1. [17] 18m

   Climb the steep face immediately behind the pinnacle.

2. [17] 18m

   The pitch follows a shallow crack, sloping slightly left, with an eye hole at the top which is visible from below. Start pitch by mantelshelf and then move left to crack. Follow the crack to the eye hole which is at an overhang and finish up short face to top. This pitch was opened artificially, but has since been found feasible free.

The route is on a prominent yellow face immediately upstream of a large high "Gothic" cave, the pointed roof of which reaches nearly to the top of the krantz.

1. [11] 15m

   Start on a small grey face in a small corner climbing to a good ledge with two trees.

2. [15] 18m

   Take off from the ledge on the downstream side, climb upwards for 6m, then bear right into a corner. Climb as high as possible in the corner until it is possible to slide one's fingers along a prominent horizontal crack in the nose on the right and taking the weight on the hands swing round the nose. Traverse right 6m to a ledge and tree.

3. [15] 22m

   Ascend the face directly above the stance. To get onto this face, a small overhang must be negotiated followed by a delicate traverse to the right (difficult). Then continue directly upwards on steep rock with good holds to the top. This variation is easier and less strenuous than the original pitch 3.

The climb starts in well defined small corner about 20m below 'Solo' and either a grade 7 or 8 start may be made.

1. [9] 17m

   Climb a shallow recess with a narrow opening at the top. 7m of grade 8 onto a square ledge. Or alternatively, climb easy rock about 5m to the left of this, moving up and to the right to reach the same square ledge (7). Climb straight up following the crack for 10m to tree stance.

2. 10m 10 Climb the steep crack directly above the tree on good grips. Continue straight up to the large ledge.

3. 17m 8 Climb the main face behind big tree (at this point climb crosses 'Solo'). Belay at ledge with tree growing out horizontally.

4. 12m 7 Climb up and to the right to final V-shaped recess at top.