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1 - 100 di 6,864 ascensioni.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Falesia Qualità Arrampicatore Data
6c+ A0 Die Männer vom Memmental (Die Manner von Memmental)
1 6b+ A0 180m
2 6c+
Sportiva 180m, 17 Melchtal
Luke Franzke
Sab 9 Giu 2018
7a+ Psychides - con Remo
1 7a+ 280m
2 6b
3 6a
4 6c
5 5c
6 7a
7 6b+
8 6a+
9
Trad 280m Chli Bielenhorn
Pesche
Dom 5 Set 2021
7a Steinbock
1 5c
2 7a
3 6a
4 5c
5 6a
6 6a+
Sportiva Melchtal
mike
Gio 25 Giu 2020
Had to pull on two draws in P2, making the route essentially a 6a+. Connected P2 and P3, because I did not check the topo and did not see the belay... That's not recommendable at all, the rope-drag is off the charts.

 
7a Pulsar
1 5b
2 6b
3 6c
4 6a+
5 6a+
6 7a
7 7a
8 6c+
9 6b
10 6b+
Sportiva 15 Melchtal Classica
Maarten
Sab 27 Ago 2022
Did not climb the 7a pitches clean. Beautiful 6c (3rd pitch), 6c+ (8th) and 6b (9th)

 
6c+ Technoparty - con Colin
1 5c+ 200m arrampicata in lead da Coto
2 5c+ arrampicata in lead da Colin
3 6c arrampicata in lead da Coto
4 6a+ arrampicata in lead da Colin
5 6b arrampicata in lead da Coto
6 6a+ arrampicata in lead da Colin
7 6c+ arrampicata in lead da Coto
Sportiva 200m Melchtal
Coto
Dom 23 Ago 2020
6c+ Südwand - con Tobias Bahmer
1 6a arrampicata in lead da Max Kaltenbrunner
2 6c+ arrampicata in lead da Tobias Bahmer
3 6c arrampicata in lead da Max Kaltenbrunner
4 5b arrampicata in lead da Tobias Bahmer
5 5c+ arrampicata in lead da Max Kaltenbrunner
6 4c arrampicata in lead da Tobias Bahmer
Trad Bockmattli
Max Kaltenbrunner
Lun 24 Ago 2020
What an experience. First the Route was hard to find and the 30-40min from the Bockmattlihütte given in the SAC-guide will never ever be sufficient with the long hikw and rapelling. The first 2 pitches were awesome, well bolted and went onsight, as well as the fifth pitch. Then in the third pitch suddenly there are 15m spaces with lots of loose rock in between. I tried the 6c variant and had to commit mentally as hard as never before in climbing to get to the bolt, with 12m no bolt below me an no solid possibility to place sth. After that bolt no further followed, so I had to traverse way back to the 5b and again to the 6c in order to reduce the rope drag afterwards, including several mental breakdowns. The bolting in the 5b pitches is very wide, bad possibilities to place sth as most of the rock isn't very solid and has nothing to do with the others, where it's bolted really good. Also they're graded 1960-like. Careful!

 
5a+ El Corazón (El Corazón P1)
1 5a+
Sportiva Holzegg
Adrian Utrilla
Dom 20 Giu 2021
6c+ Uristier
1 6c 50m arrampicata in lead da Pablo Pino
2 6c+ 50m arrampicata in lead da Tobi
3 6b+ 30m arrampicata in lead da Pablo Pino
4 6b 20m arrampicata in lead da Pablo Pino
5 6b 30m arrampicata in lead da Tobi
6 6b 20m arrampicata in lead da Pablo Pino
Sportiva 200m Chli Glatten Buona
Pablo Pino
Sab 18 Giu 2022
6c+ Ibex - con Al
1 6b+ Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Al

Hartes Einstiegsproblem..

2 6b Trad arrampicata in lead da Alexander Oppe

Komplett eingebohrt, erst Querung dann definierter Steilaufschwung

3 6b+ Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Al
4 6c+ Trad arrampicata in lead da Alexander Oppe

Geniale abwechslungsreiche Länge mit drei schweren Stellen. Vor der Untergriff-Schuppen-Querung ist mir der Fuss gegangen, allerdings konnt ich mich noch mit der rechten Hand am Zapfen halten. Anschließend genug Adrenalin um die SL zu Ende zu bringen

5 6c Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Al

Routenführung nach den ersten zwei Haken nicht ganz definiert (eher links haltend), oben unangenehm stumpfer, offener Riss durch Platte.

Trad 200m Chli Bielenhorn Molto buona
Alexander Oppe
Lun 14 Ago 2023
6a Panorama (Panorama P1) - con Nicky
1 6a
Sportiva Holzegg Molto buona
Anika
Lun 15 Gen 2018
6c Johnni Walker - con Ralph
1 6b arrampicata in lead da Coto
2 6c
Sportiva Schlänggen
Coto
Ven 11 Mag 2018
6c Flucht nach Vorne - con Daniele
1 6b+
2 6c
Sportiva Schlänggen
Coto
Ven 28 Set 2018
6b Le cour de la mer - con Dascha
1 6b 30m
2 6b 35m
3 6a+ 50m
4 6b 50m
5 6a 25m
Sportiva 190m Chli Glatten Molto buona
Alexander Oppe
Dom 5 Lug 2020
5b Ibex (Ibex P1) - con Miriam
1 5b
Sportiva Holzegg
Dani KO
Sab 4 Apr 2020
6c Kassensturz
1 5c+ 150m
2 6a
3 6b
4 6b+
5 6a+
6 6c
7 4c
Sportiva 150m Hannibal
Jonas
Dom 13 Set 2020
6b+ Klapperschlange
1 6b
2 6b+
Sportiva Holzegg Molto buona
Tom Balsiger
Sab 28 Nov 2020
5b Grüezi Weg (Grüezi Weg P1)
1 5b
Sportiva 30m Holzegg
Adrian Utrilla
Dom 20 Giu 2021
6a+ Heja Svenska (Heja Svenska P1) - con Simon
1 6a+ arrampicata in lead da Torsten
Sportiva 70m Holzegg Molto buona
Torsten
Sab 20 Nov 2021
6c Le cour de la mer
1 6b 200m
2 6b
3 6a+
4 6c
5 6a
Sportiva 200m Chli Glatten Buona
Max Kaltenbrunner
Ven 17 Giu 2022
Good route with good protection in solid rock. The best pitches are the 6a+ and 6c in my opinion.

 
6c Zogä am Bogä
1 6b+ 200m
2 6c
3 6a+
4 6c
5 6b
6 6b+
Sportiva 200m Chli Glatten Molto buona
Max Kaltenbrunner
Sab 18 Giu 2022
Really cool route, we liked every single pitch. Good protection, only in the 2 easier&grassy pitches one could find few placements useful, it's also not easy to find the correct way there. 1* off for that. p1: Long, homogenous and fun, perfect to get warm. p2: Boulder off the ledge, afterwards easier. Head way to the left after the grassy groove. Caution: The anchors in p2 & p3 don't fit to the topo! I guess another one has been bolted there, use the second one way to the left after the first 6c, or make 7 pitches out of it. Other wise the rope drag in the 6a+ gets just too strong! p3: Huge left-traverse with a few really cool moves and differing styles. Attention, rope drag! p4: Few challenging moves off the ledge, but not too hard. The crux comes to the end, where the holds and feet get worse ad worse and you're pumped. p5: Super-exposed roof with jugs. Head let afterwards! p6: Nice & pumpy climbing, the rock doesn't look too solid but everything we touched was ok.

 
6b+ Flueblüemli (Flueblüemli P1, P2)
1 6a
2 6b+
Sportiva Melchtal Molto buona
mike
Mar 25 Set 2018
5b Hoppla - con Miriam
1 5b
Sportiva 80m Holzegg
Dani KO
Sab 4 Apr 2020
6b+ Zeichen der Freundschaft
1 5c+ 28m
2 6 28m
3 6a+ 33m
4 6b+ 25m
5 6b 25m
6 5c+ 28m
7 5c+ 25m
8 6a 25m
9 6a+ 28m
10 6b+ 30m
Sportiva 280m Teufelstalwand
Jonas
Sab 12 Set 2020
6b+ Zeichen der Freundschaft - con ToxicD
1 5c+ 28m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
2 6a 28m arrampicata in lead da ToxicD
3 6a+ 33m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
4 6b+ 25m arrampicata in lead da ToxicD
5 6b 25m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
6 5c+ 28m arrampicata in lead da ToxicD
7 5c+ 25m arrampicata in lead da ToxicD
8 6a 25m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
9 6a+ 28m arrampicata in lead da ToxicD
10 6b+ 30m arrampicata in lead da ToxicD
Sportiva 280m Teufelstalwand Mega Classica
Torsten
Sab 2 Ott 2021
geniale Tour, wiederholungsbedürftig!

 
6b+ Zeichen der Freundschaft - con Torsten
1 5c+ 28m
2 6a 28m
3 6a+ 33m
4 6b+ 25m
5 6b 25m
6 5c+ 28m
7 5c+ 25m
8 6a 25m
9 6a+ 28m
10 6b+ 30m
Sportiva 280m Teufelstalwand Classica
ToxicD
Sab 2 Ott 2021
It's a modern classic for a reason. Only two pitches are not very interesting. All others offer varied, and great climbing on superb granite. And the best, the approach is relatively short.

Best pitch is for sure the crack in L4.

We combined L7+L8 (the chimney offwidth).

 
6b+ Pissoir du Diable
1 6a 48m
2 5c 30m
3 6b+ 25m
4 5c 25m
5 6a 30m
6 5c+ 30m
7 6a+ 33m
8 6a 20m
Trad mista 240m, 47 Teufelstalwand Buona
Fabian
Dom 12 Giu 2022
6a Wädlichlimser - con Xavier
4 6a Da secondo
5 5c+ Artificiale
6 6a Da secondo
7 6a Sportiva
Sportiva 330m Schöllenen
Marcel
Dom 4 Set 2022
6b Butzliläll - con Conny
1 6a 150m
2 5b
3 6b
4 6a
Sportiva 150m, 12 Berglichopf Molto buona
Oli
Dom 30 Giu 2019
6b Echo der Zeit - con Dascha
1 6a
2 5c
3 5c
4 6b
5 6b
6 6a
Sportiva 3200m Bockmattli Classica
Alexander Oppe
Dom 11 Ago 2019
6b Bijou
1 5c 200m
2 6a
3 6a
4 6a
5 6b
6 6b
6 6b
Sportiva 200m Voralptal Molto buona
mike
Dom 1 Set 2019
6b Chryz und Quer
1 6a 220m
2 6a
3 6b
4 5c
5 6a+
6 6a
7 6a
8 5c
Sportiva 220m Chli Glatten Classica
mike
Mer 21 Ott 2020
Beautiful route in perfect limestone. Very well protected. Didn't feel too hard - grades adequate - but my partner had a few issues in deciphering what to do...

Just keep your eyes open for that useful hold...

 
6b Chryz und Quer
1 6a 220m
2 6a
3 6b
4 5c
5 6a+
6 6a
7 6b
8 5c
Sportiva 220m Chli Glatten Media
Jonas
Sab 7 Nov 2020
Well protected, we did not neeed any additional gear.

 
6b Echo der Zeit - con Daniel
1 6a
2 5c
3 5c
4 6b
5 6b
6 6a
Sportiva 3200m Bockmattli Molto buona
Tom Balsiger
Sab 19 Giu 2021
6b Höhlenweg
1 4b
2 5c+
3 6b
4 4c
5 6a
6 6a
7 5b
8 5c
9 5c
10 5c+
11 6a
Trad 360m Bockmattli
Tom Balsiger
Dom 12 Set 2021
6b Höhlenweg - con Jo
1 4b
2 5c+
3 6b
4 4c
5 6a
6 6a
7 5b
8 5c
9 5c
10 5c+
11 6a
Trad 360m Bockmattli Buona
mike
Sab 18 Set 2021
  • The first pitch should be considered part of the approach. It's one of the ugliest, wettest, dirtiest and sketchiest pieces of c*** that I ever climbed. 50m ropes did not suffice to reach the first belay. There is a wet fixed rope that helps through the upper part. Even with that fixed rope, leading this pitch is quite sketchy as there is no viable possibility for protection. Oh yeah: extend your quickdraws!

  • Don't follow the bolts to the right - just take the first two, belay is in the cave.

  • Nice and very well protected crux. Pitch traverses to the left with a few moves around 6a between the bolts.

  • Easy chimney and arête

  • Steep, well protected lay-backing. Sustained but short pitch

  • One well protected crux move.

  • Very narrow chimney, then crumbly and easy arête. Annoying with backpack.

  • The remaining four pitches more or less follow the obvious dihedral. #8 is not very steep. The rock in these pitches is layered diagonally, which may make some moves non-obvious, difficult and/or awkward.

  • Probably one of the nicest pitches. Very solid rock, jugs. Beautiful red lichen on the rocks.

  • I had to lead this after my partner was not confident to do that one move above a small ledge where the first bolt is placed. At the top you must not follow the steep dihedral on the left, but you'll have to go right (no more pro) through easier terrain to reach the final belay.

  • My partner really struggled with this pitch. Especially one move near the top on a good undercling with only tiny footholds is tough to do - and has to be done above the last piton(!) and just before reaching the next bolt.

  • All in all the route has a few very nice pitches, some traverses, lots of dihedrals. Bolts may be quite spaced, we had to use slings and BD Camalot 0.3 and 0.4 several times. We did not bring larger cams, they could have been useful in the last couple of pitches.

    Route-finding is not always easy - the week before a rope-team got lost and needed to be rescued! So be sure to double-check the topo!

     
    6b Höhlenweg - con Julian
    1 4b 60m arrampicata in lead da Julian
    2 5c+ 10m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    3 6b 35m arrampicata in lead da Julian
    4 4c 40m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    5 6a 20m arrampicata in lead da Julian
    6 6a 30m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    7 5b 35m arrampicata in lead da Julian
    8 5c 40m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    9 5c 35m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    10 5c+ 20m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    11 6a 30m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    Trad 360m Bockmattli Molto buona
    Torsten
    Sab 18 Set 2021
    ambitionierte alpin abgesicherte Route, in der schwierigen 6b-Passage stecken genug Haken zum Nullen, die anderen SL sind mit weiten Hakenabständen versehen, egal wie schwer, dh. definitiv KK&Friends mitnehmen!

     
    5- Chneiwschibä
    1 5- 40m
    2
    Sportiva 40m Melchtal
    Sam P.
    Lun 25 Lug 2022
    6b Echo der Zeit - con Lucio
    1 6a Sportiva
    2 5c Sportiva
    3 5c Da secondo
    4 6b Sportiva
    5 6b Da secondo
    6 6a Sportiva
    Sportiva 3200m Bockmattli Classica
    Marcel
    Sab 3 Giu 2023
    6b Niedermann/Anderrühti - con Lorena
    1 5b+ 30m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena

    Einstiegsseillänge zum ursprünglichen Start der Route beim damaligen Gletscherstand

    2 5c 25m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    3 6a+ 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena

    pumpige Rissverschneidung - erste Schlüsselseillänge, viel zusätzlich selbst abzusichern, teils nass

    4 6a 40m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    5 5c+ 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena
    6 5c+ 40m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    7 6a+ 30m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena
    8 6b 35m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten

    zweite Schlüsselseillänge mit pumpigem Riss, mit einem Knieklemmer wärs vlt ohne Block gegangen

    9 5b 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena

    leider hat das Wandbuch gefehlt.

    10 6a+ 30m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    Trad mista 370m, 36 Gross Bielenhorn Mega Classica
    Torsten
    Mar 19 Set 2023
    6b Echo der Zeit - con Sophie
    1 6a 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Sophie
    2 5c 25 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    3 5c 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Sophie
    4 6b 40 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    5 6b 30 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    6 6a 40 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten

    falsche Linie erwischt

    Sportiva 210m Bockmattli Molto buona
    Torsten
    Ven 6 Ott 2023
    1.SL im Schatten, ziemlich kalt, Crux hoch antreten und durchbeissen;

    4.&5.SL pumpig an Rissen und Löchern

    6.SL falsche Linie erwischt, man muss der Hakenlinie gerade rauf folgen

     
    6a+ Dr blau Chäfer (Dr blau Chafer P5)
    5 6a+ 160m
    Sportiva 160m, 14 Melchtal
    Luke Franzke
    Sab 9 Giu 2018
    6a+ Hanimoon
    1 5c+ 170m
    2 6a+
    3 6a
    4 6a+
    5 6a
    Sportiva 170m, 12 Hannibal
    mike
    Lun 27 Ago 2018
    6a+ Hanimoon
    1 5c+ 170m
    2 6a+
    3 6a
    4 6a+
    5 6a
    Sportiva 170m, 12 Hannibal Mega Classica
    Silvan Biffiger
    Gio 6 Set 2018
    6a+ Der Vogel und das Kind (Der Vogel und das Kind Kombiniere Steinbock)
    1 5c
    2 6a
    3 6a collegamento Steinbock
    4 6a+
    5 3a
    6 6a+
    7 6a+
    Sportiva Melchtal
    mike
    Mar 25 Set 2018
    Slab under the roof in P3 was soaking wet, so we traversed into the 6aish part of P2 of "Steinbock" to get to the belay.

    The traverse under the roof in P6 was... interesting.

     
    6a+ Neuer Altherrenweg - con Conny
    1 5a
    2 6a
    3 5b
    4 5c+
    5 6a+
    6 5a
    Sportiva Chli Glatten
    Oli
    Sab 29 Giu 2019
    6a+ Z´Wild Mandli - con Conny
    1 5c+ 30m
    2 5c 30m
    3 6a+ 30m
    Sportiva 90m, 10 Berglichopf Molto buona
    Oli
    Dom 30 Giu 2019
    6a+ Verborgene - con Conny
    1 6a+ 200m
    2 6a
    3 6a+
    4 6a+
    5 5c
    Trad mista 200m, 10 Berglichopf Molto buona
    Oli
    Dom 2 Set 2018
    6a+ Neuer Altherrenweg - con Dascha
    1 5a
    2 6a
    3 5b
    4 5c+
    5 6a+
    6 5a
    Sportiva Chli Glatten Molto buona
    Alexander Oppe
    Sab 24 Ago 2019
    Super Fels! Die Querung in SL4 und die Rissverschneidung in SL5 sind die Highlights

     
    6b Direkte Nordwand - con Nicolas Descloux
    1 5c+ 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    2 4b 33m arrampicata in lead da Hubert Virtos
    3 4b 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    4 5c 33m arrampicata in lead da Hubert Virtos
    5 5c+ 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    6 6b 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    7 6a 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    8 5c+ 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    9 5c 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    10 5b 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    11 5c+ 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    12 2b 33m arrampicata in lead da Nicolas Descloux
    Trad 400m Bockmattli
    Hubert Virtos
    Dom 4 Ago 2019
    6a+ Dr blau Chäfer - con Flo
    1 5c 160m arrampicata in lead da Lukas Kiefer
    2 6a+ arrampicata in lead da Flo
    3 6a+ arrampicata in lead da Lukas Kiefer
    4 6a+ arrampicata in lead da Flo
    5 6a+ arrampicata in lead da Lukas Kiefer
    Sportiva 160m, 14 Melchtal Buona
    Lukas Kiefer
    Sab 14 Set 2019
    sechste Seillänge nicht geklettert. zu viele Leute welche von hinten schon auf den letzten Stand gedrängt haben.

     
    5c Gemstürmli (Gemstürmli P1)
    1 5c 25m
    Sportiva 25m Melchtal Buona
    PeterB
    Dom 13 Set 2020
    6a+ Dr blau Chäfer
    1 5c 160m
    2 6a+
    3 6a+
    4 6a+
    5 6a+
    6 6a
    Sportiva 160m, 14 Melchtal Classica
    Tom Balsiger
    Dom 1 Nov 2020
    6a+ Katzenjammer
    1 6a
    2 6a+
    Sportiva 70m Holzegg Classica
    Tom Balsiger
    Sab 28 Nov 2020
    6a+ Dr blau Chäfer - con Je
    1 5c 160m arrampicata in lead da Je
    2 6a+
    3 6a+
    4 6a
    5 6a+
    6 6a
    Sportiva 160m, 14 Melchtal Mega Classica
    mike
    Sab 3 Lug 2021
    After the last time I came here ended after only two pitches because of unexpected circumstances, this time around I was finally able to climb the route in its entirety. My partner was a bit out of shape so he let me lead all of the harder pitches.

    In my opinion the route is rightfully a "plaisir" classic. Even though in the ~20 years since its establishment, the cult-factor and the soft limestone seem to have led to it becoming quite a bit polished, this does not seriously impair the pure joy it is to climb this spectacularly overhanging cliff.

    The route is really well bolted and there is very little potential for a dangerous fall - and even with all the traverses on the overhanging wall its quite unlikely that you'll take a fall after which you'd have to prussik up to get to the wall again.

    1. Crux under the roof. May be a bit wet but usually no real problem. There is a small "runout" (compared to how closely bolted the rest of the route is) in which a fall would be painful, but the difficulty in that section probably is around 4a...

    2. Delicate left traverse on relatively small holds right before the end of the pitch.

    3. Crux for me was in the lower half of the pitch on slippery holds, but the main difficulty is the sustained slightly overhanging climbing.

    4. Short boulder problem on the roof above the belay. This pitch felt significantly easier than P3 and P2. At the end contains a short section where falling is not advisable as you'd hit a ledge, but the climbing there is not difficult - maybe around 5b?

    5. Traverse under the huge roof. Left, then up, then left again.

    6. Final pitch was wet but still climbable. Felt harder than higher graded P4.

     
    6a+ Al Koppone
    1 6a 25m
    2 6a+ 25m
    3 5c 15m
    Sportiva 65m Bockmattli
    Marcel
    Sab 23 Ott 2021
    6a+ Siiteschtächer - con Simon
    1 5c 25m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    2 6a+ 10m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    Sportiva 35m, 16 Holzegg
    Torsten
    Sab 20 Nov 2021
    6a+ O sole mio - con Octo
    1 4c 50 arrampicata in lead da Octo
    2 5c 50 arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    3 6a+ 50 arrampicata in lead da Octo
    Sportiva 150m Rigi - Hochflue Buona
    Torsten
    Dom 21 Nov 2021
    6a+ Dr blau Chäfer - con oliver
    1 5c 160m
    2 6a+
    3 6a+
    4 6a+
    5 6a+
    6 6a
    Sportiva 160m, 14 Melchtal
    Monika
    Mar 12 Lug 2022
    6a+ Hanimoon - con Oliver
    1 5c+ 170m arrampicata in lead da Monika
    2 6a+
    3 6a
    4 6a+
    5 6a arrampicata in lead da Monika
    Sportiva 170m, 12 Hannibal Mega Classica
    Monika
    Mer 13 Lug 2022
    6a+ Hanimoon
    1 5c+ 170m
    2 6a+
    3 6a
    4 6a+
    5 6a
    Sportiva 170m, 12 Hannibal
    Jonas
    Sab 27 Ago 2022
    6b Hanimoon - con Lorena
    1 5c+ 45 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten

    knackige Einstiegseillänge, ziemlich plattig, gut gebohrt

    2 6a+ 35 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena

    steiler, feingriffiges Geschiebe, weitere Hakenabstände

    3 6a 33 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten

    schöne Seillänge an Rissen und Schuppen, zuletzt hier den falschen Stand erwischt.

    4 6b 25 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena

    hier haben wir ungeplant die 6b der Nachbarstour "Elefantenrüssel" geklettert..

    5 6a 35 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten

    geniale Ausstiegsseillänge an Quarzstrukturen - super Henkel und Tritte

    Sportiva 170m, 12 Hannibal Classica
    Torsten
    Mer 20 Set 2023
    6b+ Conquest of Paradise - con Lorena
    1 5c 30m Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    2 5c 25m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena
    3 5b 30m Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    4 6b+ 33m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Torsten

    hier haben wir die 6b+-Rissverschneidung der Nachbartour "Kassensturz" geklettert

    5 6a+ 27m Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    6 4c 15m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Lorena
    Sportiva 160m Hannibal Mega Classica
    Torsten
    Mer 20 Set 2023
    5c+ Hoppla Vreni P1 - con Micha Gurtner
    1 5c+ 35m Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    Sportiva 35m Salbit
    Torsten
    Mer 27 Set 2023
    6a+ Westkante - con Felix
    1 5a Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Felix
    2 5a Trad arrampicata in lead da Tim
    3 3a Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Felix
    4 6a+ Trad arrampicata in lead da Tim
    Trad 120m Kleines Kamel Classica
    Tim
    Mar 3 Ott 2023
    6a+ Conquest of Paradise - con Felix
    1 5c 30 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Tim
    2 5c 25 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Felix
    3 5b 30 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Tim
    4 5c+ 33 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Felix
    5 6a+ 27 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Tim
    6 4c 15 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Felix
    Sportiva 160m Hannibal Classica
    Tim
    Mer 4 Ott 2023
    6a+ Gemeinsame Wege - con Rainer
    1 5c+ 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Rainer
    2 5c+ 30 Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Tim
    3 6a 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Rainer
    4 6a+ 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Rainer
    5 5c 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Rainer

    3 p.a.

    Sportiva 150m, 5 Melchtal Buona
    Tim
    Dom 7 Apr 2024
    6a Nordwestwand
    1 5c
    2 5b
    3 5c
    4 5c+
    5 5c
    6 6a
    7 5b
    8 4b
    Trad 260m Bockmattli
    Jonas
    Sab 29 Set 2018
    6a Dura Diagonale - con Anika, Jakob
    1 4a Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Nicky
    2 5a Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Nicky
    3 6a Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Nicky
    4 4b Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Nicky
    5 4b Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Nicky
    6 5a Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Nicky
    Sportiva 330m Schöllenen Molto buona
    Nicky
    Dom 22 Mag 2022
    Leider recht viel nass heute.

     
    6a Perrenoud
    1 4c 270m
    2 5a
    3 5b
    4 5b
    5 6a
    6 6a
    7 6a
    8 5a
    Trad 270m Chli Bielenhorn
    Fabian Anthamatten
    Mer 3 Ago 2022
    6a Via Esther - con Lilo
    1 5b 40m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    2 6a 25m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    3 5b 30m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    4 3c 40m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    5 5b 40m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    6 5a 40m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    7 4a 30m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    8 4c 25m arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    Sportiva 270m Bergsee Molto buona
    Torsten
    Dom 4 Set 2022
    alles vorgestiegen, Schlüsselstelle war nass, dh. technisch geklettert

     
    6a Schneewalzer - con Cedric
    1 5b Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Cedric
    2 5c+ Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    3 4a Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Cedric
    4 4c Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    5 5a Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    6 5c Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Cedric
    7 6a Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    8 5c+ Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    9 5b Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Cedric
    Sportiva Chli Glatten Buona
    Torsten
    Dom 25 Giu 2023
    die SL 8 war zml brüchig, in der SL 5 fehlt ein Plättchen am Stand.

     
    5c+ Altwybersummer
    1 4c 270m
    2 4b
    3 3b
    4 4b
    5 5c+
    6 4c
    7 4b
    8 5a+
    Sportiva 270m Ruogig Pessima
    mike
    Sab 8 Set 2018
    The rock is mostly solid, but there's quite a bit of walking and grassy patches in-between. The climbing-style is rather "old school" with the chimney-like cruxes in P5 and P8, where I actually found the lower graded P8 crux to be a bit more difficult than the two cruxes in P5.

    Some pitches need good management of rope-stretch. There's also a crouching passage in P7, and in P6 it felt like one could easily deck from around 10m. This could possibly be mitigated with a sling or a nut, but I didn't bother.

    We missed the second rappel anchor, and instead found a solid tunnel through with a fresh sling and maillon, about 10m to the left of the second anchor of the climbing route. This allowed us to get down in three abseils instead of four (using 2x50m ropes).

    All in all, for some reason I expected more of this route, but at least the views were nice.

     
    5c+ Westwändli
    1 5a
    2 3a
    3 2a
    4 4b
    5 5c+
    6 4b
    7 3c
    8 3a
    Trad mista 200m, 29 Bockmattli
    Jonas
    Sab 29 Set 2018
    5c+ Westwändli
    1 5a
    2 3a
    3 2a
    4 5a
    5 5c+
    6 4c
    7 4a
    8 3b
    Trad mista 200m, 29 Bockmattli Molto buona
    TeilzeitAbenteurer
    Dom 9 Ago 2020
    5c+ Stinkbock
    1 4c 40m
    2 5a 25m
    3 4c 40m
    4 5c+ 40m
    5 4b 40m
    6 4b 35m
    7 3a 20m
    8 5a 25m
    9 4b 15m
    Sportiva 280m, 12 Seewen
    Jonas
    Sab 19 Giu 2021
    5c+ Ostpfeiler - con Micha Gurtner, Nicole, Simon
    1 5c 50m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    2 4c 50m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    3 5c 50m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten

    Expressen stark verlängern - sonst sehr starker Seilzug

    4 5a 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    5 4a 50m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    6 4c 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    7 5b 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    8 5c+ 30m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    9 4c 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    10 4c 45m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    11 4b 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    12 4a 50m Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    Trad 550m Bockmattli Molto buona
    Torsten
    Dom 11 Giu 2023
    Wiederholungsbedürftiges alpines Abenteuer! 06:30 Start am Brügglerparkplatz 07:30 Einstieg in Route 16:00 Ausstieg am Gipfel dann Abstieg über den Südgrat (wird definitiv zeitlich unterschätzt!) und Gross Chälen 21:00 zurück am Brügglerparkplatz

     
    5c+ Südgrat mit Direkteinstieg (5b) - con Micha Gurtner
    1 5b 50 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    2 4a 35 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    3 5a 40 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    4 5a 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    5 3c 45 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    6 3c 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    7 4c 40 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    8 4b 45 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    9 4b 40 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    10 5c+ 45 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten

    Micha hat Zwischenstand vor der Schlüssel-SL gemacht

    11 4a 25 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    12 4a 45 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    13 3c 15 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    14 4a 50 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    15 3c 25 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    16 4c 45 Trad arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    17 4b 45 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Micha Gurtner
    Trad 670m Salbit Mega Classica
    Torsten
    Mar 26 Set 2023
    lange Gratkletterei mit einigen Tücken, sehr schön. Zeitlich hats leider nicht mehr für die Gipfelnadel gereicht, nächstes Mal dann!

     
    5b Nathalie P2 - con Micha Gurtner
    2 5b 35m Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Torsten
    Sportiva 35m Salbit
    Torsten
    Mer 27 Set 2023
    5c Pensieri neri - con Miriam
    1 5c 90m arrampicata in lead da Dani KO
    2 5a arrampicata in lead da Miriam
    3 5b arrampicata in lead da Dani KO
    Sportiva 90m Guferstock
    Dani KO
    Sab 8 Ago 2020
    1.SL ist sehr einfach für 5c (v.a. im Vergleich zu 2.SL von "Canto di mala vita"). Die 3. SL ist eher schwer (und etwas psycho zum Klippen).

     
    5c+ Canto di mala vita - con Dani KO
    1 5b 110m arrampicata in lead da Miriam
    2 5c+ arrampicata in lead da Dani KO
    3 4a arrampicata in lead da Miriam
    4 5a arrampicata in lead da Dani KO
    Sportiva 110m Guferstock
    Miriam
    Sab 8 Ago 2020
    5c Pensieri neri - con Dani KO
    1 5c 90m arrampicata in lead da Dani KO
    2 5a arrampicata in lead da Miriam
    3 5b arrampicata in lead da Dani KO
    Sportiva 90m Guferstock
    Miriam
    Sab 8 Ago 2020
    5c Die Verschlossene
    1 5c 22m
    2 5b 20m
    3 3c 18m
    4 5b 25m
    5 5c 25m
    6 5b 25m
    7 5b 20m
    Sportiva 160m Lidernen Molto buona
    mike
    Mer 11 Ago 2021
    Nice route. The rock is mostly very solid and raw, there is barely any polish and it's a nice steep climb. Pitches 4 and 5 do have some loose rock, especially at the belay after pitch 4 there is a large and loose piece that you might want to avoid.

    BD Camalots 0.4 and 0.5 provided some stress relief but the route is actually very well protected with fresh-looking glue-in bolts.

    If you take adequate care of rope-drag, pitches 1 and 2, as well as 7 and 8 can easily be linked when climbing with 50m ropes. Pitch 3 is an easy traverse. Not sure if it's viable to link pitches 4 and 5, though (rope drag).

     
    5c Fadegrad
    1 5c
    2 4c+
    Sportiva Pilatus Molto buona
    Sam P.
    Sab 28 Mag 2022
    5c+ Heirassa
    1 4c 40m
    2 5c+
    3 5b
    Sportiva 40m Melchtal
    Sam P.
    Lun 25 Lug 2022
    6 Facile Alte Nordwand - con Maurice
    1 4 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Maurice
    2 5 30 Trad arrampicata in lead da Tim
    3 5 35 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Maurice
    4 6 30 Trad arrampicata in lead da Tim
    5 6 33 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Maurice
    6 5+ 33 Trad arrampicata in lead da Tim
    7 5+ 40 Trad arrampicata in lead da Tim
    Trad 240m Bockmattli Media
    Tim
    Mer 23 Ago 2023
    Auf der Website des SAC beschrieben mit „Bohrhaken in regelmäßigen Abständen“ - das ist ein bisschen Quatsch. Teilweise lange run-outs und nicht immer offensichtlich Routenführung (Stand am Ende der der 4. SL ziemlich versteckt). Viele Seillängen am Anfang und Ende von Gras durchzogen. Zwischendurch aber immer wieder einige Passagen fantastischer Kletterei an Wasserrinnen. Nur für abenteuerhungrige KletterInnen mit starkem Kopf sind Friends fakultativ.

     
    5b Südgrat - con Roger Spiess
    1 4a 40m
    2 4a 40m arrampicata in lead da Fabian Anthamatten
    3 3a 40m
    4 5b 40m arrampicata in lead da Fabian Anthamatten
    5 4c 40m
    6 3b 40m arrampicata in lead da Fabian Anthamatten
    7 3b 40m
    8 4a 40m arrampicata in lead da Fabian Anthamatten
    9 4a 40m
    Trad 360m Chöpfenberg Classica
    Fabian Anthamatten
    Sab 12 Set 2020
    5c Dächli - con Dani KO
    1 4b 55m arrampicata in lead da Miriam
    2 5b arrampicata in lead da Miriam
    3 5c arrampicata in lead da Miriam
    Sportiva 55m Nollen
    Miriam
    Lun 24 Mag 2021
    5a Sorgechind - con Katrin
    1 4c
    2 5a
    3 5a
    4 4b
    Sportiva Gross Furkahorn Classica
    Oli
    Sab 15 Ago 2020
     
    5a Sorgechind - con Fred, Fred Erik
    1 4c
    2 5a
    3 5a
    4 4b
    Sportiva Gross Furkahorn Classica
    Andi
    Sab 5 Set 2020
    granite love

     
    5a Namenlose Kante (Namenlose Kante Kombiniere Höhlenweg)
    6 4c 30m collegamento Höhlenweg
    7 5a 25m collegamento Höhlenweg
    8 4c 45m collegamento Höhlenweg
    9 3c 15m collegamento Höhlenweg
    Trad 120m Bockmattli
    Tom Balsiger
    Dom 12 Set 2021
    5a Via Andrea
    1 4a
    2 4b
    3 5a
    4 4c
    5 4a
    6 5a
    Sportiva Bergsee
    Jonas
    Mer 6 Lug 2022
    5a Sorgechind
    1 4c
    2 5a
    3 5a
    4 4b
    Sportiva Gross Furkahorn
    Fabian Anthamatten
    Mer 3 Ago 2022
    5 Cyrill
    1 5 45m
    2 7-
    Sportiva 45m Melchtal
    Fabian Anthamatten
    Mer 8 Lug 2020
    4c Toni Zimmermann-Weg
    1 4b 20m
    2 4c 20m
    3 4a 20m
    4 4b 20m
    5 3b 10m
    6 4b 10m
    Sportiva 100m Nollen
    Fabian Anthamatten
    Sab 7 Ago 2021
    5c+ Meteorit-Kombination (Metorit-Kombination P1)
    1 5c+ 200 m
    Sportiva 200m, 14 Melchtal
    mike
    Mer 19 Giu 2019
    6a+ Niedermann/Anderrühti
    1 5c 30m
    2 6a 45m
    3 6a 45m
    4 4c 50m
    5 5c+ 40m
    6 5c+ 40m
    7 6a+ 40m
    8 5a 45m
    9 5c+ 45m
    Trad mista 380m, 36 Gross Bielenhorn Classica
    Skrei
    Mer 28 Lug 2021
    First alpine Route with benno! Had to bail after the 5th Pitch. Awesome weather!

     
    6b Meteorit-Kombination - con Matej Hlavacek
    1 5c+ Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Matej Hlavacek
    2 5b+ Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Chris Lam
    3 5c+ Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Matej Hlavacek
    4 5c Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Chris Lam
    5 4c Sportiva arrampicata in lead da Chris Lam
    6 6a Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Matej Hlavacek
    7 6b Sportiva
    Sportiva 200m, 14 Melchtal
    Chris Lam
    Ven 29 Mar 2024
    We (knowingly) climbed this in 8C w/ 70kph wind gusts so it was spicier than it needed to be.

    The route is definitely chossy and has some runouts on not-that-great holds. Beware climbing below other parties and be confident at the grade. A lot of the harder moves are sketchy-ish feet with sloper-ish crimps.

    Plenty of rockfall and a bonus sketchy traverse due to going the wrong way on pitch 4. Check the topo often.

    We started super late and abandoned the route at the base of the last pitch, but it was still a pretty fun adventure.

    If you're in high wind and it starts raining, don't worry, it's probably just the waterfall nearby =P

     
    6a+ Dr blau Chäfer (Dr blau Chafer)
    1 5c 160m
    2 6a+
    Sportiva 160m, 14 Melchtal
    mike
    Mer 19 Giu 2019
    Retreated because of partners' vertigo...

     
    6a+ Dura Dr blau Chäfer - con Karin Bless
    1 5c Da secondo
    2 6a+ Sportiva
    3 6a+ Da secondo
    4 6a+ Sportiva
    5 6a+ Sportiva
    6 6a Sportiva
    Sportiva 160m, 14 Melchtal Classica
    chrible
    Lun 2 Ott 2023
    schöne Kletterei aber auch ausgesetzt, mental anspruchsvoll und sehr abgeklettert.

     
    6a Amatörwäg
    1 6a Sportiva
    2 5c+ Sportiva
    3 6a Sportiva
    4 5c+ Sportiva

    The first Bolt seems to have broken away with a large flake (doesnt look new) can be protected on the left with a .2 microcam or some nuts on the right side

    5 5b Sportiva
    6 5b Sportiva
    7 6a Sportiva
    8 5c Sportiva
    9 5c+ Sportiva
    10 5b Sportiva
    Sportiva 400m Schöllenen
    Claudio Chies
    Sab 30 Set 2023

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