Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Falesia | Qualità | Arrampicatore | Data | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6c+ A0 |
★★★ Die Männer vom Memmental (Die Manner von Memmental)
1
6b+ A0
180m
2
6c+
| 180m, 17 | Melchtal | Sab 9 Giu 2018 | |||||
7a+ |
★★★ Psychides
- con
Remo
1
7a+
280m
2
6b
3
6a
4
6c
5
5c
6
7a
7
6b+
8
6a+
9
| 280m | Chli Bielenhorn | Dom 5 Set 2021 | |||||
7a |
Steinbock
1
5c
2
7a
3
6a
4
5c
5
6a
6
6a+
| Melchtal | Gio 25 Giu 2020 | ||||||
Had to pull on two draws in P2, making the route essentially a 6a+. Connected P2 and P3, because I did not check the topo and did not see the belay... That's not recommendable at all, the rope-drag is off the charts.
|
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7a |
★★★ Pulsar
1
5b
2
6b
3
6c
4
6a+
5
6a+
6
7a
7
7a
8
6c+
9
6b
10
6b+
| 15 | Melchtal | ★★★ Classica | Sab 27 Ago 2022 | ||||
Did not climb the 7a pitches clean. Beautiful 6c (3rd pitch), 6c+ (8th) and 6b (9th)
|
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6c+ | ★★ Technoparty - con Colin | 200m | Melchtal | Dom 23 Ago 2020 | |||||
6c+ |
Südwand
- con
Tobias Bahmer
2
6c+
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias Bahmer
4
5b
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias Bahmer
6
4c
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias Bahmer
| Bockmattli | Lun 24 Ago 2020 | ||||||
What an experience. First the Route was hard to find and the 30-40min from the Bockmattlihütte given in the SAC-guide will never ever be sufficient with the long hikw and rapelling. The first 2 pitches were awesome, well bolted and went onsight, as well as the fifth pitch. Then in the third pitch suddenly there are 15m spaces with lots of loose rock in between. I tried the 6c variant and had to commit mentally as hard as never before in climbing to get to the bolt, with 12m no bolt below me an no solid possibility to place sth. After that bolt no further followed, so I had to traverse way back to the 5b and again to the 6c in order to reduce the rope drag afterwards, including several mental breakdowns. The bolting in the 5b pitches is very wide, bad possibilities to place sth as most of the rock isn't very solid and has nothing to do with the others, where it's bolted really good. Also they're graded 1960-like. Careful!
|
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5a+ |
★★ El Corazón (El Corazón P1)
1
5a+
| Holzegg | Dom 20 Giu 2021 | ||||||
6c+ |
★ Uristier
2
6c+
50m
arrampicata in lead da
Tobi
5
6b
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Tobi
| 200m | Chli Glatten | ★ Buona | Sab 18 Giu 2022 | ||||
6c+ |
★★ Ibex
- con
Al
2
6b
arrampicata in lead da
Alexander Oppe
Komplett eingebohrt, erst Querung dann definierter Steilaufschwung
4
6c+
arrampicata in lead da
Alexander Oppe
Geniale abwechslungsreiche Länge mit drei schweren Stellen. Vor der Untergriff-Schuppen-Querung ist mir der Fuss gegangen, allerdings konnt ich mich noch mit der rechten Hand am Zapfen halten. Anschließend genug Adrenalin um die SL zu Ende zu bringen
5
6c
arrampicata in lead da
Al
Routenführung nach den ersten zwei Haken nicht ganz definiert (eher links haltend), oben unangenehm stumpfer, offener Riss durch Platte. | 200m | Chli Bielenhorn | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 14 Ago 2023 | ||||
6a |
★★★ Panorama (Panorama P1)
- con
Nicky
1
6a
| Holzegg | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 15 Gen 2018 | |||||
6c |
★★★ Johnni Walker
- con
Ralph
2
6c
| Schlänggen | Ven 11 Mag 2018 | ||||||
6c |
★★★ Flucht nach Vorne
- con
Daniele
1
6b+
2
6c
| Schlänggen | Ven 28 Set 2018 | ||||||
6b |
★ Le cour de la mer
- con
Dascha
1
6b
30m
2
6b
35m
3
6a+
50m
4
6b
50m
5
6a
25m
| 190m | Chli Glatten | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 5 Lug 2020 | ||||
5b |
★★ Ibex (Ibex P1)
- con
Miriam
1
5b
| Holzegg | Sab 4 Apr 2020 | ||||||
6c |
★★ Kassensturz
1
5c+
150m
2
6a
3
6b
4
6b+
5
6a+
6
6c
7
4c
| 150m | Hannibal | Dom 13 Set 2020 | |||||
6b+ |
★★ Klapperschlange
1
6b
2
6b+
| Holzegg | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 28 Nov 2020 | |||||
5b |
★★ Grüezi Weg (Grüezi Weg P1)
1
5b
| 30m | Holzegg | Dom 20 Giu 2021 | |||||
6a+ |
★★ Heja Svenska (Heja Svenska P1)
- con
Simon
| 70m | Holzegg | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 20 Nov 2021 | ||||
6c |
★ Le cour de la mer
1
6b
200m
2
6b
3
6a+
4
6c
5
6a
| 200m | Chli Glatten | ★ Buona | Ven 17 Giu 2022 | ||||
Good route with good protection in solid rock. The best pitches are the 6a+ and 6c in my opinion.
|
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6c |
★★ Zogä am Bogä
1
6b+
200m
2
6c
3
6a+
4
6c
5
6b
6
6b+
| 200m | Chli Glatten | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 18 Giu 2022 | ||||
Really cool route, we liked every single pitch. Good protection, only in the 2 easier&grassy pitches one could find few placements useful, it's also not easy to find the correct way there. 1* off for that.
p1: Long, homogenous and fun, perfect to get warm.
p2: Boulder off the ledge, afterwards easier. Head way to the left after the grassy groove. Caution: The anchors in p2 & p3 don't fit to the topo! I guess another one has been bolted there, use the second one way to the left after the first 6c, or make 7 pitches out of it. Other wise the rope drag in the 6a+ gets just too strong!
p3: Huge left-traverse with a few really cool moves and differing styles. Attention, rope drag!
p4: Few challenging moves off the ledge, but not too hard. The crux comes to the end, where the holds and feet get worse ad worse and you're pumped.
p5: Super-exposed roof with jugs. Head let afterwards!
p6: Nice & pumpy climbing, the rock doesn't look too solid but everything we touched was ok.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Flueblüemli (Flueblüemli P1, P2)
1
6a
2
6b+
| Melchtal | ★★ Molto buona | Mar 25 Set 2018 | |||||
5b |
★★ Hoppla
- con
Miriam
1
5b
| 80m | Holzegg | Sab 4 Apr 2020 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Zeichen der Freundschaft
1
5c+
28m
2
6
28m
3
6a+
33m
4
6b+
25m
5
6b
25m
6
5c+
28m
7
5c+
25m
8
6a
25m
9
6a+
28m
10
6b+
30m
| 280m | Teufelstalwand | Sab 12 Set 2020 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Zeichen der Freundschaft
- con
ToxicD
| 280m | Teufelstalwand | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 2 Ott 2021 | ||||
geniale Tour, wiederholungsbedürftig!
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Zeichen der Freundschaft
- con
Torsten
1
5c+
28m
2
6a
28m
3
6a+
33m
4
6b+
25m
5
6b
25m
6
5c+
28m
7
5c+
25m
8
6a
25m
9
6a+
28m
10
6b+
30m
| 280m | Teufelstalwand | ★★★ Classica | Sab 2 Ott 2021 | ||||
It's a modern classic for a reason. Only two pitches are not very interesting. All others offer varied, and great climbing on superb granite. And the best, the approach is relatively short.
Best pitch is for sure the crack in L4. We combined L7+L8 (the chimney offwidth). |
|||||||||
6b+ |
★★ Pissoir du Diable
1
6a
48m
2
5c
30m
3
6b+
25m
4
5c
25m
5
6a
30m
6
5c+
30m
7
6a+
33m
8
6a
20m
| 240m, 47 | Teufelstalwand | ★ Buona | Dom 12 Giu 2022 | ||||
6a |
★★ Wädlichlimser
- con
Xavier
4
6a
5
5c+
6
6a
7
6a
| 330m | Schöllenen | Dom 4 Set 2022 | |||||
6b |
★★ Butzliläll
- con
Conny
1
6a
150m
2
5b
3
6b
4
6a
| 150m, 12 | Berglichopf | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 30 Giu 2019 | ||||
6b |
★★★ Echo der Zeit
- con
Dascha
1
6a
2
5c
3
5c
4
6b
5
6b
6
6a
| 3200m | Bockmattli | ★★★ Classica | Dom 11 Ago 2019 | ||||
6b |
★ Bijou
1
5c
200m
2
6a
3
6a
4
6a
5
6b
6
6b
6
6b
| 200m | Voralptal | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 1 Set 2019 | ||||
6b |
★★ Chryz und Quer
1
6a
220m
2
6a
3
6b
4
5c
5
6a+
6
6a
7
6a
8
5c
| 220m | Chli Glatten | ★★★ Classica | Mer 21 Ott 2020 | ||||
Beautiful route in perfect limestone. Very well protected. Didn't feel too hard - grades adequate - but my partner had a few issues in deciphering what to do...
Just keep your eyes open for that useful hold... |
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6b |
★★ Chryz und Quer
1
6a
220m
2
6a
3
6b
4
5c
5
6a+
6
6a
7
6b
8
5c
| 220m | Chli Glatten | Media | Sab 7 Nov 2020 | ||||
Well protected, we did not neeed any additional gear.
|
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6b |
★★★ Echo der Zeit
- con
Daniel
1
6a
2
5c
3
5c
4
6b
5
6b
6
6a
| 3200m | Bockmattli | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 19 Giu 2021 | ||||
6b |
★★ Höhlenweg
1
4b
2
5c+
3
6b
4
4c
5
6a
6
6a
7
5b
8
5c
9
5c
10
5c+
11
6a
| 360m | Bockmattli | Dom 12 Set 2021 | |||||
6b |
★★ Höhlenweg
- con
Jo
1
4b
2
5c+
3
6b
4
4c
5
6a
6
6a
7
5b
8
5c
9
5c
10
5c+
11
6a
| 360m | Bockmattli | ★ Buona | Sab 18 Set 2021 | ||||
The first pitch should be considered part of the approach. It's one of the ugliest, wettest, dirtiest and sketchiest pieces of c*** that I ever climbed. 50m ropes did not suffice to reach the first belay. There is a wet fixed rope that helps through the upper part. Even with that fixed rope, leading this pitch is quite sketchy as there is no viable possibility for protection. Oh yeah: extend your quickdraws! Don't follow the bolts to the right - just take the first two, belay is in the cave. Nice and very well protected crux. Pitch traverses to the left with a few moves around 6a between the bolts. Easy chimney and arête Steep, well protected lay-backing. Sustained but short pitch One well protected crux move. Very narrow chimney, then crumbly and easy arête. Annoying with backpack. The remaining four pitches more or less follow the obvious dihedral. #8 is not very steep. The rock in these pitches is layered diagonally, which may make some moves non-obvious, difficult and/or awkward. Probably one of the nicest pitches. Very solid rock, jugs. Beautiful red lichen on the rocks. I had to lead this after my partner was not confident to do that one move above a small ledge where the first bolt is placed. At the top you must not follow the steep dihedral on the left, but you'll have to go right (no more pro) through easier terrain to reach the final belay. My partner really struggled with this pitch. Especially one move near the top on a good undercling with only tiny footholds is tough to do - and has to be done above the last piton(!) and just before reaching the next bolt. All in all the route has a few very nice pitches, some traverses, lots of dihedrals. Bolts may be quite spaced, we had to use slings and BD Camalot 0.3 and 0.4 several times. We did not bring larger cams, they could have been useful in the last couple of pitches. Route-finding is not always easy - the week before a rope-team got lost and needed to be rescued! So be sure to double-check the topo! |
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6b |
★★ Höhlenweg
- con
Julian
1
4b
60m
arrampicata in lead da
Julian
3
6b
35m
arrampicata in lead da
Julian
5
6a
20m
arrampicata in lead da
Julian
7
5b
35m
arrampicata in lead da
Julian
| 360m | Bockmattli | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 18 Set 2021 | ||||
ambitionierte alpin abgesicherte Route, in der schwierigen 6b-Passage stecken genug Haken zum Nullen, die anderen SL sind mit weiten Hakenabständen versehen, egal wie schwer, dh. definitiv KK&Friends mitnehmen!
|
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5- |
Chneiwschibä
1
5-
40m
2
| 40m | Melchtal | Lun 25 Lug 2022 | |||||
6b |
★★★ Echo der Zeit
- con
Lucio
1
6a
2
5c
3
5c
4
6b
5
6b
6
6a
| 3200m | Bockmattli | ★★★ Classica | Sab 3 Giu 2023 | ||||
6b |
★★★ Niedermann/Anderrühti
- con
Lorena
1
5b+
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
Einstiegsseillänge zum ursprünglichen Start der Route beim damaligen Gletscherstand
3
6a+
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
pumpige Rissverschneidung - erste Schlüsselseillänge, viel zusätzlich selbst abzusichern, teils nass
5
5c+
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
7
6a+
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
8
6b
35m
arrampicata in lead da
Torsten
zweite Schlüsselseillänge mit pumpigem Riss, mit einem Knieklemmer wärs vlt ohne Block gegangen
9
5b
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
leider hat das Wandbuch gefehlt. | 370m, 36 | Gross Bielenhorn | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mar 19 Set 2023 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Echo der Zeit - con Sophie | 210m | Bockmattli | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 6 Ott 2023 | ||||
1.SL im Schatten, ziemlich kalt, Crux hoch antreten und durchbeissen;
4.&5.SL pumpig an Rissen und Löchern 6.SL falsche Linie erwischt, man muss der Hakenlinie gerade rauf folgen |
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6a+ |
★★ Dr blau Chäfer (Dr blau Chafer P5)
5
6a+
160m
| 160m, 14 | Melchtal | Sab 9 Giu 2018 | |||||
6a+ |
★★★ Hanimoon
1
5c+
170m
2
6a+
3
6a
4
6a+
5
6a
| 170m, 12 | Hannibal | Lun 27 Ago 2018 | |||||
6a+ |
★★★ Hanimoon
1
5c+
170m
2
6a+
3
6a
4
6a+
5
6a
| 170m, 12 | Hannibal | ★★★ Mega Classica | Gio 6 Set 2018 | ||||
6a+ |
Der Vogel und das Kind (Der Vogel und das Kind Kombiniere Steinbock)
1
5c
2
6a
3
6a
collegamento Steinbock
4
6a+
5
3a
6
6a+
7
6a+
| Melchtal | Mar 25 Set 2018 | ||||||
Slab under the roof in P3 was soaking wet, so we traversed into the 6aish part of P2 of "Steinbock" to get to the belay.
The traverse under the roof in P6 was... interesting. |
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6a+ |
★★ Neuer Altherrenweg
- con
Conny
1
5a
2
6a
3
5b
4
5c+
5
6a+
6
5a
| Chli Glatten | Sab 29 Giu 2019 | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Z´Wild Mandli
- con
Conny
1
5c+
30m
2
5c
30m
3
6a+
30m
| 90m, 10 | Berglichopf | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 30 Giu 2019 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Verborgene
- con
Conny
1
6a+
200m
2
6a
3
6a+
4
6a+
5
5c
| 200m, 10 | Berglichopf | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 2 Set 2018 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Neuer Altherrenweg
- con
Dascha
1
5a
2
6a
3
5b
4
5c+
5
6a+
6
5a
| Chli Glatten | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 24 Ago 2019 | |||||
Super Fels! Die Querung in SL4 und die Rissverschneidung in SL5 sind die Highlights
|
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6b |
★★ Direkte Nordwand
- con
Nicolas Descloux
| 400m | Bockmattli | Dom 4 Ago 2019 | |||||
6a+ |
★★ Dr blau Chäfer
- con
Flo
| 160m, 14 | Melchtal | ★ Buona | Sab 14 Set 2019 | ||||
sechste Seillänge nicht geklettert. zu viele Leute welche von hinten schon auf den letzten Stand gedrängt haben.
|
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5c |
★ Gemstürmli (Gemstürmli P1)
1
5c
25m
| 25m | Melchtal | ★ Buona | Dom 13 Set 2020 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Dr blau Chäfer
1
5c
160m
2
6a+
3
6a+
4
6a+
5
6a+
6
6a
| 160m, 14 | Melchtal | ★★★ Classica | Dom 1 Nov 2020 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Katzenjammer
1
6a
2
6a+
| 70m | Holzegg | ★★★ Classica | Sab 28 Nov 2020 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Dr blau Chäfer
- con
Je
1
5c
160m
arrampicata in lead da
Je
2
6a+
3
6a+
4
6a
5
6a+
6
6a
| 160m, 14 | Melchtal | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 3 Lug 2021 | ||||
After the last time I came here ended after only two pitches because of unexpected circumstances, this time around I was finally able to climb the route in its entirety. My partner was a bit out of shape so he let me lead all of the harder pitches.
In my opinion the route is rightfully a "plaisir" classic. Even though in the ~20 years since its establishment, the cult-factor and the soft limestone seem to have led to it becoming quite a bit polished, this does not seriously impair the pure joy it is to climb this spectacularly overhanging cliff. The route is really well bolted and there is very little potential for a dangerous fall - and even with all the traverses on the overhanging wall its quite unlikely that you'll take a fall after which you'd have to prussik up to get to the wall again.
|
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6a+ |
★★★ Al Koppone
1
6a
25m
2
6a+
25m
3
5c
15m
| 65m | Bockmattli | Sab 23 Ott 2021 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Siiteschtächer - con Simon | 35m, 16 | Holzegg | Sab 20 Nov 2021 | |||||
6a+ |
★★ O sole mio
- con
Octo
1
4c
50
arrampicata in lead da
Octo
3
6a+
50
arrampicata in lead da
Octo
| 150m | Rigi - Hochflue | ★ Buona | Dom 21 Nov 2021 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Dr blau Chäfer
- con
oliver
1
5c
160m
2
6a+
3
6a+
4
6a+
5
6a+
6
6a
| 160m, 14 | Melchtal | Mar 12 Lug 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Hanimoon - con Oliver | 170m, 12 | Hannibal | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mer 13 Lug 2022 | ||||
6a+ |
★★★ Hanimoon
1
5c+
170m
2
6a+
3
6a
4
6a+
5
6a
| 170m, 12 | Hannibal | Sab 27 Ago 2022 | |||||
6b |
★★★ Hanimoon
- con
Lorena
2
6a+
35
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
steiler, feingriffiges Geschiebe, weitere Hakenabstände
3
6a
33
arrampicata in lead da
Torsten
schöne Seillänge an Rissen und Schuppen, zuletzt hier den falschen Stand erwischt.
4
6b
25
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
hier haben wir ungeplant die 6b der Nachbarstour "Elefantenrüssel" geklettert..
5
6a
35
arrampicata in lead da
Torsten
geniale Ausstiegsseillänge an Quarzstrukturen - super Henkel und Tritte | 170m, 12 | Hannibal | ★★★ Classica | Mer 20 Set 2023 | ||||
6b+ |
★★★ Conquest of Paradise
- con
Lorena
2
5c
25m
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
4
6b+
33m
arrampicata in lead da
Torsten
hier haben wir die 6b+-Rissverschneidung der Nachbartour "Kassensturz" geklettert
6
4c
15m
arrampicata in lead da
Lorena
| 160m | Hannibal | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mer 20 Set 2023 | ||||
5c+ |
Hoppla Vreni P1
- con
Micha Gurtner
| 35m | Salbit | Mer 27 Set 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Westkante - con Felix | 120m | Kleines Kamel | ★★★ Classica | Mar 3 Ott 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Conquest of Paradise - con Felix | 160m | Hannibal | ★★★ Classica | Mer 4 Ott 2023 | ||||
6a+ |
★ Gemeinsame Wege
- con
Rainer
1
5c+
30
arrampicata in lead da
Rainer
3
6a
30
arrampicata in lead da
Rainer
4
6a+
30
arrampicata in lead da
Rainer
5
5c
30
arrampicata in lead da
Rainer
3 p.a. | 150m, 5 | Melchtal | ★ Buona | Dom 7 Apr 2024 | ||||
6a |
★★ Nordwestwand
1
5c
2
5b
3
5c
4
5c+
5
5c
6
6a
7
5b
8
4b
| 260m | Bockmattli | Sab 29 Set 2018 | |||||
6a Dura | ★★ Diagonale - con Anika, Jakob | 330m | Schöllenen | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 22 Mag 2022 | ||||
Leider recht viel nass heute.
|
|||||||||
6a |
★★ Perrenoud
1
4c
270m
2
5a
3
5b
4
5b
5
6a
6
6a
7
6a
8
5a
| 270m | Chli Bielenhorn | Mer 3 Ago 2022 | |||||
6a |
★★ Via Esther
- con
Lilo
| 270m | Bergsee | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 4 Set 2022 | ||||
alles vorgestiegen, Schlüsselstelle war nass, dh. technisch geklettert
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6a |
★ Schneewalzer
- con
Cedric
1
5b
arrampicata in lead da
Cedric
3
4a
arrampicata in lead da
Cedric
6
5c
arrampicata in lead da
Cedric
9
5b
arrampicata in lead da
Cedric
| Chli Glatten | ★ Buona | Dom 25 Giu 2023 | |||||
die SL 8 war zml brüchig, in der SL 5 fehlt ein Plättchen am Stand.
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5c+ |
Altwybersummer
1
4c
270m
2
4b
3
3b
4
4b
5
5c+
6
4c
7
4b
8
5a+
| 270m | Ruogig | Pessima | Sab 8 Set 2018 | ||||
The rock is mostly solid, but there's quite a bit of walking and grassy patches in-between. The climbing-style is rather "old school" with the chimney-like cruxes in P5 and P8, where I actually found the lower graded P8 crux to be a bit more difficult than the two cruxes in P5.
Some pitches need good management of rope-stretch. There's also a crouching passage in P7, and in P6 it felt like one could easily deck from around 10m. This could possibly be mitigated with a sling or a nut, but I didn't bother. We missed the second rappel anchor, and instead found a solid tunnel through with a fresh sling and maillon, about 10m to the left of the second anchor of the climbing route. This allowed us to get down in three abseils instead of four (using 2x50m ropes). All in all, for some reason I expected more of this route, but at least the views were nice. |
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5c+ |
★★ Westwändli
1
5a
2
3a
3
2a
4
4b
5
5c+
6
4b
7
3c
8
3a
| 200m, 29 | Bockmattli | Sab 29 Set 2018 | |||||
5c+ |
★★ Westwändli
1
5a
2
3a
3
2a
4
5a
5
5c+
6
4c
7
4a
8
3b
| 200m, 29 | Bockmattli | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 9 Ago 2020 | ||||
5c+ |
Stinkbock
1
4c
40m
2
5a
25m
3
4c
40m
4
5c+
40m
5
4b
40m
6
4b
35m
7
3a
20m
8
5a
25m
9
4b
15m
| 280m, 12 | Seewen | Sab 19 Giu 2021 | |||||
5c+ |
★★ Ostpfeiler
- con
Micha Gurtner, Nicole, Simon
| 550m | Bockmattli | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 11 Giu 2023 | ||||
Wiederholungsbedürftiges alpines Abenteuer!
06:30 Start am Brügglerparkplatz
07:30 Einstieg in Route
16:00 Ausstieg am Gipfel
dann Abstieg über den Südgrat (wird definitiv zeitlich unterschätzt!) und Gross Chälen
21:00 zurück am Brügglerparkplatz
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5c+ |
★★★ Südgrat mit Direkteinstieg (5b)
- con
Micha Gurtner
| 670m | Salbit | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mar 26 Set 2023 | ||||
lange Gratkletterei mit einigen Tücken, sehr schön. Zeitlich hats leider nicht mehr für die Gipfelnadel gereicht, nächstes Mal dann!
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5b |
Nathalie P2
- con
Micha Gurtner
| 35m | Salbit | Mer 27 Set 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ Pensieri neri - con Miriam | 90m | Guferstock | Sab 8 Ago 2020 | |||||
1.SL ist sehr einfach für 5c (v.a. im Vergleich zu 2.SL von "Canto di mala vita").
Die 3. SL ist eher schwer (und etwas psycho zum Klippen).
|
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5c+ | Canto di mala vita - con Dani KO | 110m | Guferstock | Sab 8 Ago 2020 | |||||
5c | ★★ Pensieri neri - con Dani KO | 90m | Guferstock | Sab 8 Ago 2020 | |||||
5c |
★★ Die Verschlossene
1
5c
22m
2
5b
20m
3
3c
18m
4
5b
25m
5
5c
25m
6
5b
25m
7
5b
20m
| 160m | Lidernen | ★★ Molto buona | Mer 11 Ago 2021 | ||||
Nice route. The rock is mostly very solid and raw, there is barely any polish and it's a nice steep climb. Pitches 4 and 5 do have some loose rock, especially at the belay after pitch 4 there is a large and loose piece that you might want to avoid.
BD Camalots 0.4 and 0.5 provided some stress relief but the route is actually very well protected with fresh-looking glue-in bolts. If you take adequate care of rope-drag, pitches 1 and 2, as well as 7 and 8 can easily be linked when climbing with 50m ropes. Pitch 3 is an easy traverse. Not sure if it's viable to link pitches 4 and 5, though (rope drag). |
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5c |
★★ Fadegrad
1
5c
2
4c+
| Pilatus | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 28 Mag 2022 | |||||
5c+ |
Heirassa
1
4c
40m
2
5c+
3
5b
| 40m | Melchtal | Lun 25 Lug 2022 | |||||
6 Facile | ★ Alte Nordwand - con Maurice | 240m | Bockmattli | Media | Mer 23 Ago 2023 | ||||
Auf der Website des SAC beschrieben mit „Bohrhaken in regelmäßigen Abständen“ - das ist ein bisschen Quatsch. Teilweise lange run-outs und nicht immer offensichtlich Routenführung (Stand am Ende der der 4. SL ziemlich versteckt). Viele Seillängen am Anfang und Ende von Gras durchzogen. Zwischendurch aber immer wieder einige Passagen fantastischer Kletterei an Wasserrinnen. Nur für abenteuerhungrige KletterInnen mit starkem Kopf sind Friends fakultativ.
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5b |
★★★ Südgrat
- con
Roger Spiess
1
4a
40m
3
3a
40m
5
4c
40m
7
3b
40m
9
4a
40m
| 360m | Chöpfenberg | ★★★ Classica | Sab 12 Set 2020 | ||||
5c | Dächli - con Dani KO | 55m | Nollen | Lun 24 Mag 2021 | |||||
5a |
★★★ Sorgechind
- con
Katrin
1
4c
2
5a
3
5a
4
4b
| Gross Furkahorn | ★★★ Classica | Sab 15 Ago 2020 | |||||
5a |
★★★ Sorgechind
- con
Fred, Fred Erik
1
4c
2
5a
3
5a
4
4b
| Gross Furkahorn | ★★★ Classica | Sab 5 Set 2020 | |||||
granite love
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5a |
★★ Namenlose Kante (Namenlose Kante Kombiniere Höhlenweg)
6
4c
30m
collegamento Höhlenweg
7
5a
25m
collegamento Höhlenweg
8
4c
45m
collegamento Höhlenweg
9
3c
15m
collegamento Höhlenweg
| 120m | Bockmattli | Dom 12 Set 2021 | |||||
5a |
★★★ Via Andrea
1
4a
2
4b
3
5a
4
4c
5
4a
6
5a
| Bergsee | Mer 6 Lug 2022 | ||||||
5a |
★★★ Sorgechind
1
4c
2
5a
3
5a
4
4b
| Gross Furkahorn | Mer 3 Ago 2022 | ||||||
5 |
★ Cyrill
1
5
45m
2
7-
| 45m | Melchtal | Mer 8 Lug 2020 | |||||
4c |
★★★ Toni Zimmermann-Weg
1
4b
20m
2
4c
20m
3
4a
20m
4
4b
20m
5
3b
10m
6
4b
10m
| 100m | Nollen | Sab 7 Ago 2021 | |||||
5c+ |
★★ Meteorit-Kombination (Metorit-Kombination P1)
1
5c+
200 m
| 200m, 14 | Melchtal | Mer 19 Giu 2019 | |||||
6a+ |
★★★ Niedermann/Anderrühti
1
5c
30m
2
6a
45m
3
6a
45m
4
4c
50m
5
5c+
40m
6
5c+
40m
7
6a+
40m
8
5a
45m
9
5c+
45m
| 380m, 36 | Gross Bielenhorn | ★★★ Classica | Mer 28 Lug 2021 | ||||
First alpine Route with benno!
Had to bail after the 5th Pitch. Awesome weather!
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6b | ★★ Meteorit-Kombination - con Matej Hlavacek | 200m, 14 | Melchtal | Ven 29 Mar 2024 | |||||
We (knowingly) climbed this in 8C w/ 70kph wind gusts so it was spicier than it needed to be.
The route is definitely chossy and has some runouts on not-that-great holds. Beware climbing below other parties and be confident at the grade. A lot of the harder moves are sketchy-ish feet with sloper-ish crimps. Plenty of rockfall and a bonus sketchy traverse due to going the wrong way on pitch 4. Check the topo often. We started super late and abandoned the route at the base of the last pitch, but it was still a pretty fun adventure. If you're in high wind and it starts raining, don't worry, it's probably just the waterfall nearby =P |
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6a+ |
★★ Dr blau Chäfer (Dr blau Chafer)
1
5c
160m
2
6a+
| 160m, 14 | Melchtal | Mer 19 Giu 2019 | |||||
Retreated because of partners' vertigo...
|
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6a+ Dura |
★★ Dr blau Chäfer
- con
Karin Bless
1
5c
2
6a+
3
6a+
4
6a+
5
6a+
6
6a
| 160m, 14 | Melchtal | ★★★ Classica | Lun 2 Ott 2023 | ||||
schöne Kletterei aber auch ausgesetzt, mental anspruchsvoll und sehr abgeklettert.
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6a |
Amatörwäg
1
6a
2
5c+
3
6a
4
5c+
The first Bolt seems to have broken away with a large flake (doesnt look new) can be protected on the left with a .2 microcam or some nuts on the right side
5
5b
6
5b
7
6a
8
5c
9
5c+
10
5b
| 400m | Schöllenen | Sab 30 Set 2023 |