Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | Falesia | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.9 | ★ Bonaire
A nice lead, though many seem to skip the first bolt, and start right of it to climb to 2nd bolt. | 18m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.10a | ★ Gelatin Pooch | 10m | Red Rock | ||
5.6 | ★★★ Cat in the Hat
One of the most popular multi-pitch routes at Red Rocks due, at least in part, to large comfortable belay ledges the whole way. Can be rappelled on one 70m rope with a bit of 4th class down-climbing, or with two ropes. Starts below an obvious left-slanting crack.
FA: Harrison, Broussard & Van Betten | 210m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Buck's Muscle World | 8m, 3 | Red Rock | ||
5.10b | ★ Pump First, Pay Later | 10m | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★ Brief Encounter
Left-most bolted line on the front of the cliff. FA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson | 20m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.8 II | ★★★ Dark Shadows
Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below. FA: Nick Nordblom & Jon Martinet, 1979 | 100m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.11d | ★★ Sweet Pain | 15m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★ Boxer Rebellion
Starts where the ledge turns into a ramp up to the right. FA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson | 15m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Sport Climbing Is Neither | 8m, 3 | Red Rock | ||
5.10c | ★ Running Amuck | 10m | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★ Neon Sunset
Climb the closely spaced bolts up the center of the wall. | 14m, 9 | Red Rock | ||
5.10a | ★★ Vagabonds | 20m, 8 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Bon Ez | 20m, 7 | Red Rock | ||
5.10d | ★★ Nightmare on Crude Street | 20m | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Yaak Crack | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★ Silk Panties
The right-most bolted route, about half-way up the ramp. FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain | 12m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★ Rebel without a Pause | 10m | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Frogland
| 290m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.11a | ★★ Glitter Gulch | 20m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Caustic
The obvious arrete at the front of the crag. | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.10a | ★ Dancin' with a God | 14m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.6 | ★★ Physical Graffiti
P1: start on scrubby vertical arête with lots of features and a crack for pro. Follow crack past small roof to ledge. P2: Move right to steep corner crack and continue to top. Rap station is on the backside, to the right. FA: Jon Martinet, Randal Grandstaff & Scott Gordon | 94m, 2 | Red Rock | ||
5.8 IV | ★★★ Crimson Chrysalis
One of the best 5.8's in the world.
Descent: rap the route. FA: Jorge & Joanne Urioste, 1979 | 250m, 9 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Electric Koolaid
The left-most bolted route. The first bolt is high, very high. Most of the climbing to it is easy -- 5.2/5.3 stuff, but unless you're quite tall and reachy, one very high up (15' or so) 5.7ish move must be done to clip the first bolt, making the start very committing. | 14m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Birdland
A superb sustained route at the grade (5.7+). Very popular, due to bolted anchors, ability to be rappelled on single 70m rope, and very good climbing with generally solid protection. Start below the left-most of 2 obvious long cracks the split the lower part of the varnished buttress left of the corner that Spectrum climbs to the roof 60ft up. This is a few yards above a huge boulder that leans against the cliff creating a tunnel.
FA: Mark Limage & Chris Burton | 150m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.10a | ★ What's Eating You?
FA: Todd Swain, Randy Schenkel & Andy Schenkel | 14m, 3 | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★ Technicolor Sunrise
Start on the left side of the triangular cut-out, and follow the bolts up and generally right-wards to an anchor. | 14m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 PG | ★★★ Olive Oil
A Red Rocks Classic! Approach: from Pine Creek parking lot, follow the main trail just past an old home foundation. Take a left here on the Oak Creek trail. This trail eventually forks right after about 15 minutes. Take a right on a faint trail heading to Juniper Canyon. Head for the Rose Tower, a rounded top pink formation by going into the second of two gullies. The first gully is the descent. The climb starts bout 250 yards up this gully after going over some boulders and a small creek, at a small clear beneath a left-facing, left-leaning chimney in a corner.
Descent: Head north off the Rose Tower (the other side of where you came from) with 1 short exposed down-climb, then hike south down the gully (gully east of Rose Tower). FA: George Urioste, Joanne Urioste & John Williamson, 1978 | 300m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★★ Johnny Vegas
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5.7
2
5.7
3
5.6
4
5.4
Starts behind pillar that looks like it has a boulder perched on it, left of the Solar Slab Gully.
| 120m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★★ Big Bad Wolf
Featured in Climbing magazine's "America's Best 100 sport climbs" (Oct 2015). The rock is a little hollow in places, but well bolted. All pitches have a 5.9 crux which makes this route a sensational journey up a beautiful wall. The bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical Grafitti, starting off raised platform left of Physical Graffiti. P1) 70ft, 5.9, steep juggy wall. 8 bolts. P2) 80ft, 5.8, slabby friction climbing. 8 bolts. P3) 70ft, 5.8, a little friction, then steep juggy finish to anchor. 8 bolts. Descent: Option 1) climb a 4th pitch of low 5th class past 2 bolts to another anchor, maybe 30 foot, then walk off climber's left and down the descent gully. Option 2) Rappel from the top of pitch 3, 2 x 60m ropes reach the ground with about 1 foot spare, make sure your 60m ropes are 60m! Option 3) Rappel the route with 3 single rope rappels. FA: Dan Young, L Gallia & E Allen, 2011 | 67m, 3, 26 | Red Rock | ||
5.6 III | ★★ Solar Slab
Approach via Johnny Vegas or Solar Slab Gully. Both are easy, Johnny Vegas is great value, too. Descent - Either do some soloing to the right of the route facing the wall, or follow cairns up and left to the Black Orchard Gully walls. A single 70m rap, (double ropes, on rope stretch just!) or multiple 20-30m raps will get you down to the slabs. From here, it's a ~hour walk down (trend UP the canyon, but down the slabs), and then back down through the canyon to the car. This descent is more tiring than the walk out, but can avoid scary scrambling and abseil madness. A single rack to 3 will get you there with some inspiring runouts if you choose to link pitches. Climb pitch 1 further than the original finish, anchor on the block half way up pitch 2. This lets you get to the p3 anchor with a 70m rope. A few other pitches can be linked (you might need to simul ~5m), making for an enjoyable day out. | 370m, 9 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Epinephrine
This is it. THE classic red rocks route. And it's just as good as everyone says it is. Original route description said 18 pitches, but it can be done in as little as 11 with some boldish soloing in the upper segments.
FA: Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Joe Herbst, 1978 | 680m, 16 | Red Rock | ||
5.8 I | ★★★ Ragged Edges | 50m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★ Slave to the Grind | 20m | Red Rock | ||
5.10d | ★ Crude Boys | 20m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★ A Day in the Life | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.11a | ★★★ Under the Boardwalk
Featured in Climbing magazine's "America's Best 100 sport climbs" (Oct 2015). Big holds low down lead to smaller ones up top, the crux is probably just after the last bolt at some slopers. Tracciata: Karin Henson & Leo Henson, 1996 | 15m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Fear and Loathing III | 18m, 9 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Crude Behavior
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner & and Sobocan | 14m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 III | ★★★ Tunnel Vision | 230m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.10b | ★ Burros Might Fly | 17m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.6 | ★ Panty Prow
Climb the rounded arete to the right of the face, then traverse to the anchor. A very committing feeling lead for a 5.6. FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain | 18m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★★ Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job
2nd bolted line from the left, with 8 bolts up to an anchor. Lots of fun. FA: Mark Limage | 18m, 8 | Red Rock | ||
5.10c | ★★ Burros Don't Gamble | 19m, 7 | Red Rock | ||
5.11a | ★ Gridlock | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★ A Man in Every Pot
FA: Debbie Brenchley & Todd Swain | 12m, 3 | Red Rock | ||
5.10b | ★ Cat Walk | 15m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
V2 | ★★★ Potato Chips
An iconic Red Rocks boulder problem. Crouch with small but incut crimps and climb directly to the lip, and mantle above. | 5m | Red Rock | ||
5.10- | ★ Mac and Ronnie in Cheese
FA: Todd Swain & Debbie Brenchley | 14m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.10c | ★★ American Sportsman | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.10a IV | ★★★ Dream of Wild Turkeys | 300m, 10 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ The CEL
First bolted route on the left as you enter the corridor. | 15m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Blonde Dwarf
Starting just right of "Electric Coolaid", climb the right sloping crack until it turns vertical and peters out in the slight scoop in the face, then follow two bolts up and leftwards to the shared anchor. | 14m, 2 | Red Rock | ||
5.3 | ★ Solar Slab Gully
This climbs the gully to the right of lower solar slab.
Rappel the route (should go on a single 60m rope). | 150m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.10d | ★★ Haunted Hooks | 25m | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Crude Street Blues | 14m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
V1 | ★★★ Poker Chips
Sit start with big flakes, follow the lip up and right to the apex of the overhang. Top out. | 4m | Red Rock | ||
5.10+ | ★ The Runaway | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.10d | ★ Range of Motion | 11m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★★★ The Great Red Book | 82m, 2 | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★ Sister of Pain | 20m | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued | 18m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.10b | ★ Fool's Gold | 14m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.12c | ★★ Minstrel in the Gallery | 21m | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★ Zipperhead
Climb the thin crack about 10ft right of Neon Sunset until it runs out, then up a seam, then run out to a bolt, then to the anchor for whichever adjacent route you choose. | 14m, 1 | Red Rock | ||
5.10d | ★ Claimjumper's Special
| 23m | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★ Thermal Breakdown
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner & and Sobocan | 15m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.10a | ★★ Manifest Destiny
Climbs the center line on the tallest part of the main wall. Step across to two good crimps, then work straight up the vertical varnish face along a series of breaks. Work through the break and onto the high angle slab above, and work this to the anchor. | 20m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.11a | ★★ Baseboy Direct
| 18m, 7 | Red Rock | ||
5.10a | ★★ Panty Raid
Climb diagonally up rightwards to the obvious crack splitting the large varnished area on the front of the cliff. | 21m | Red Rock | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Screaming Target
FA: Dan McQuade, 1995 | 7 | Mount Charleston | ||
5.10c III | ★★ The Prince of Darkness
| 200m | Red Rock | ||
5.11a | ★★ Scorpions
| 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.6 | ★ Cover My Buttress
FA: Todd Swain | 12m | Red Rock | ||
5.10b | ★★ Pleasure Dog | 15m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★ 757 2X4
Route starts immediately past the boulders in the middle of the corridor. Follow right-leaning crack to finish. | 15m, 7 | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★ The Gambler | 12m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
V0 | ★★★ Plumbers Crack
Chimney | 8m | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | ★★★ Straight Outta Compton
Back left corner of the cave. FA: Dan McQuade, 1992 | 7 | Mount Charleston | ||
5.10c | ★★ Need to Rest / Idiot Parade | 11m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★ Just Shut up and Climb | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★★ Steep Thrills
| 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.8 II PG | ★★★ Lotta Balls
An excellent route with a unique and freaky crux on P2. P1) 100ft, 5.7, climb the broken face with cam placements in horizontal breaks, then move across to the left facing corner for a few moves, then follow the diagonal crack up and right to a bolted anchor. P2) 160ft, 5.8, straight up the varnished face with bizarre balls for holds, easy to the first bolt, then the balls reduce in size up to the 2nd bolt, and reduce in size further for the crux up to the crack above. The crack turns into a dihedral, follow the crack to a bolted belay. P3) 200ft, 5.7, climb the right facing corner above and move left on to the face between 10-20 feet below the roof. The angle backs-off quickly. Continue until you have no rope left and set a trad belay in the crack. P4) you're probably left with 40 foot of 4th class or maybe 5.0 climbing to the top. Descent: The descent gully is on the other side of the pinnacle you climbed, however, the safest access is to walk up and right through bushes to the highest point and down to a large tree with rappel slings. Three abseils lead down, something like 40m from tree, 20m from tree, 27m from bolts. Follow cairns and a vague track down to your packs. FA: Joe Herbst, Betsy Herbst, Randall Grandstaff & Tom Kauffman, 1977 | 150m, 3, 2 | Red Rock | ||
5.5 | ★★ Tonto
A nice hand crack,and corner that run to the right of the large chimney/arch feature to the left of Ragged Edges. A fun, quality route. FA: Joe Herbst & Betsy Herbst | 30m | Red Rock | ||
5.10d | ★★ Mic's Master | 14m | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Levitation 29
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5.10a
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5.11a
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5.8
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5.10b
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5.11c
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5.10c
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5.10d
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5.8
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5.9
FA: George Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Bill Bradley, 1981 FFA: Lynn Hill, John Long & Joanne Urioste, 1981 | 300m, 9, 20 | Red Rock | ||
5.10b | ★ Black Gold | 14m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★★ Sunny and Steep
| 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★ Ken Queasy
Start a couple feet right of the triangular cut-out at a wide crack in the lower rock. Climb up this and a thin seam through the nearly solid varnish to a bolt. Then, continue up the wall past two more bolts to anchors. | 15m, 3 | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Mr. Choad's Wild Ride
| 32m | Red Rock | ||
5.11a | ★★ Totally Clips
Left-most route on the steep section, starts about 40ft up the gully. | 15m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
V5 | ★★ The Pearl
| Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★★ The Gift | Red Rock | |||
5.7 | ★ Thong | 9m | Red Rock | ||
5.12b | ★★ Geometric Progression | 9m | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★★ The Last Panty | 14m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★★ Geronimo
| 180m | Red Rock | ||
5.9 PG | ★ Working for Peanuts
| 18m | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★ Have a Beer with Fear
| 9m, 4 | Red Rock |