등정들 n호주에서 Scott Godwin에 의한

A good adventure in an awesome, intimidating place. I led p1,3,5,7 & 8 in mixed free/aid ('fraid) style, which is what you do when the big scary ocean that wants to swallow you and all the loose rock that wants to squash you makes you feel a bit 'fraid. We brought the portaledge and spent the night at Deano's ledge just for the hell of it. Great spot to sit, sip whisky and watch the ocean.

With Brendan, Nice route. Some runouts, but usually on easy ground. I led p 1,4,6 and half of p 2. Got a bit off route on p2 and ended up breaking the pitch into two to deal with the killer rope drag.

With Andrew.

With Laura. I led all pitches. Finished up the corner then stepped left to the new bolts.

All the moves clean but had a couple of rests on the rope at about the sixth and the last bolt due to overwhelming pump. Super duper fantastic awesome intergalactic hyper classic pitch. I'm stoked to have climbed it, even in less than perfect style. I'll be back to do it better another day. About 16 hours car to car. 4 am start = back in time for beers before dark.

With Laura.

Yosemite training. Mostly aiding from bolt to bolt. Cleaned on jumars.

Swinging leads on a warm day with Graham. I led pitches 2,4,6 and 8. The crazy crack was awesome!

Awesome. Didn't have the stamina for it this time.

22? Dave and I spent an hour working on it and couldn't figure out the lower crux section. Maybe something has broken off? Or we suck even worse than we thought.

Excellent route. Climbed clean all the way to the jug at the second last bolt on the arete and with a bit of a pump building I couldn't bring myself to commit to the insecure, barn dooring, smearing layback moves up to the next bolt. Did it ok after a rest on the rope. Disappointing to blow the onsight, but happy to climb such an awesome route.

Worked out the moves using Baz's beta. Apparently it does go left to the arete. Very shoulder intensive move at the crux that made me worry about tearing something again if my foot slipped. Bolting seems weird. Cool climbing, but probably not worth the risk of injury.

Belayed Isaac and watching him climb into dangerous ground fall territory helped make up my mind that I don't need to lead this one. A fall from the horizontal break would be very bad. Hot and tired tonight. Barely dragged my carcass up it on top rope.

Had another play on top rope. Did all the moves this time, but that right hand gaston tweaked my shoulder again.

Got the crux move second go, but couldn't get the draw on the next bolt. Need to commit to climbing a bit higher above the second bolt.

Had a play on top rope. Did the crux moves but the shoulder wasn't happy about that gaston. Seems very contrived to keep going straight up to the last bolt rather than traverse across the horizontal break to Death Row.

With Andrew and Pete. Couldn't do the move above the third bolt.

Had a play on top rope after Isaac cruised the lead. I can see how it goes, but the shoulder didn't like the gaston at the crux.

Had a play on top rope again. Too tired to make that bouldery crux move.

Made a mess of this one. Sketchy clip to get up onto the headwall above the slab, with distinct possibility of a nasty fall. Ended up pulling on a cam to get over the top of the steep section.

Awesome climb. Didn't feel confident to lead it so 2nded see what it was like. Would be a scary lead. Start it stink hard, but the rest is like a 16.

Great! With Graham.

Cool climbing on the dyke features. Nice lead by Pok.

Led in the dark without consulting the guide to see that gear is required at the top. The twelve metre runout was kind of scary.

With Laura. Found a snake in the big pocket near the nut placement, so I went out right. There are plenty of options for gear.

Still hadn't managed this on top rope the week before, but got the clean lead first go today using Dave's beta for the crux. Much better that way.

Repeat to make sure that it wasn't a fluke. Felt pretty solid. Dave got his redpoint after a few falls at the crux too.

Couldn't find a solution to the blank looking section just above the second bolt. Fell about ten times before giving up and aiding through. Still couldn't work it out on top rope afterwards, and neither could Mike, Rob or Dave. The rest of it is great, sustained and classy, with some long moves that would be very hard for short people. Exciting cranking between the second and third bolts. One to come back for.

Decided to try this one on top rope first rather risk the dodgy fall from above the second bolt. Very bad feet through the cruxy bit between second and third bolts. Feels very insecure. The top crack is awesome.

Led so we could throw a rope down orient express. Grabbed the draw to clip second bolt, then one fall on the crux move before I remembered the right beta.

Top rope reconnaissance because I'm a wuss. Did all the moves. Would be a pretty comitting lead. The carrots look good, not sure about the gear in the middle. Great thin and pumpy climbing after the horizontal break.

Top rope solo. Still not feeling great today. Found the moves very hard. I think I've got a long way to go before I can put this one together.

Another recon on top rope. Figured out the crux. Still feels very insecure and the third bolt still seems to be in a retarded position that makes it possible to take a ground fall from the crux. Nate says he went back and tried it on lead and the fall is ok...

Still hard. No surprises there.

Another top rope solo session. I think I have the clipping stances and crux sequence figured out. Still feels very hard, but I suppose I should have a crack on lead.

To get a rope on the orient express.

Took the soft option and rapped in to put a long sling on the third bolt. Fell a few times trying Nate's beta on the crux, then eventually gave up and did it using the same awful desperate smeary beta that I used last time. Lowered off from the fourth bolt.

Top rope solo. Figured out the sequence for doing the crux direct, but couldn't do the move without tension from the rope. Mantling the ledge to the left works, but feels like cheating.

Again to retrieve the stuck rope.

With Laura and Andrew. First pitch felt more like 18. Not much gear. I may have strayed away from the line. Second pitch is nice.

Nice climbing. Quite runout in places but fairly easy.

Amazing. Full value for the grade. Huge atmosphere with scary run out moves to get established in the crack. Belayed on the big ledge then linked P2 and 3 from there to the 3 pin belay together, which worked well. Extra entertainment provided by our stupid friends doing Mr chicken at the same time.

Excellent, easy slab climbing with good, but spacey gear.

More or less onsight. Draws placed on the bolts on rap. Phil told me it was 22 so I was surprised to find it relatively easy. Bit of a one move wonder, but good, well, protected climbing. Done on the day the Shady side caught fire.

Led clean on gear without clipping the stupid bolts.

Laura had cleaned to the first bolt, so the top draws were in situ. Nice moves with an inobvious crux at the first bolt.