루트들 Cairns에서

Hasn't been climbed, as there's been a wasp nest under it every time. Get on it! If the wasps aren't home...

King line of the crag. Start on obvious hueco jug, follow slopy rail up and right. Someone do it!

Wacky moves and wierd body positions. Move up through the corner and slightly left to top out.

Info taken from old QURANK Guide. Only mention that it's in the corner. Unable to locate any bolts.

Beginning at the top of the ramp.

This traditional climbing line will get you from the base of the cliff all the way directly to the lookout at the top of Glacier Rock where you can walk out without rappelling back to the ground (so take everything with you), go light, take 2 ropes (in case of need to rappel), slings & biners, a double rack of cams, and a quicklink in case.

1. 45m (18) 'F#ck the Juggernaut' - Start as for Juggernaut following 45m part offwidth part stellar hand jam crack directly up corner but link into a single pitch. Great movements. Can place protection on slab as well as climb on this when the crack is a little chossy mid way. Head up and around over hang then slightly up and right to small cave on ledge to set up natural belay.

2. 10m (17) 'Bouldering on a Multi Pitch' - Head up and right on black slab to lip. Place a piece early and run out to lip. Semi committing move. Once past lip and on ledge set up anchor using either natural pro or bolted anchor on floor. Now look up to see mighty proud white slab (this is your heading).

3. 25m (14) 'Of Choss and Vegetation' - Again, place an early piece then head up chunky arete right next to belay (can muscle up or commit to slab/arete). After this you will topout into vegetation, follow this to large boulders placing some solid pieces and climb straight up and slightly left (be mindful of loose rock - choss). Continue past this through veg to base of slab. Extend gear (reducing drag) and head up a few metres then right to make natural belay on top of boulders below mighty proud white slab.

4. 20m (18) 'Cracked System' - Traverse slightly right to base of bouldery crack system (can set up a more direct belay here to reduce drag). Head straight up following bouldery cracks into short roof hand jam crack. Stellar sick moves (especially if your feet cut ). Head up a few metres to obvious solid boulder to set up anchor in cracks (Take a 0.1 cam as it is vital for the natural belay! - Bomber). The proud white slab is up for grabs and has cracks for pro - can access from lookout to send in isolation.

5. 50m (8) 'Scramble to The Top' - Head straight up on left side of belay slinging trees as you go for peace of mind. After a wee while the lookout trees will emerge (large shiny and strong). Belay off these and high-five your partner/party as they reach the belay, saying hi to any hikers who may pass by during the process .

Ethic: Wear helmets, climb cautiously and understand the escape points (bolted anchor atop pitch 2 - requires mallions - or semi dodgy looking rappel rings atop pitch 1). This climb surprisingly has some shade all day on the tops of pitch 1 and pitch 3 - good for recuperating.

Some clean, sweeping dihedrals that lead directly up from the ramp give great climbing (on left)

Some clean, sweeping dihedrals that lead directly up from the ramp give great climbing (on right)

Links TT to the top of pitch 2 of MegaLuv following dihedral. Thereby a trad link between 2 sport anchors/lines.

A 40m, steep, sustained face and crack climb in the Lower Amphitheatre.

Beautiful tall splitter that widens from hands to offwidth. Head right under the roof to top out. Take care when belaying as there is a large cavern directly underneath the start of the crack.

To the left of Tag Team. A 30m sheer sweeping wall with a series of small horizontal edges.

Follow the widening crack trending right.

Right hand climb up tall pillar called Turks Head. Follows trending cracks. Raps off top boulder.

At the back of the Lower Amphitheatre (there are over 10 routes). The first route to go through to the Upper Amphitheatre.

Follow offwidth through to 2nd shrub at top to set up anchor. Rap off boulders on top. Start at base of rock or on boulder. A tad awkward but fun short and sweet.

On the far side of the Lower Amphitheatre, a very thin route involving delicate stemming.

Corner/face climb. First 3m is an easy 19 which ends with "I can climb this with sneakers on" territory. Good for warm-ups.

Follow left hand blocky crack up past roof (or under it). Roof is not well protected so advised going just left of it. Final section of crack can house a nice fit of a size 11 Hexcentric. Rappel off high fig root

Follow crack up past blocky ledge, fine crack can use cams up to size 1 or 2 even. Rappel off tree to left of end of climb.

Head up corner, once above lip trend up central on mound to peak where anchors are. Alternative harder start on upstream side of corner.

Jari says "It's a crack climb...overhung, very pumpy first half, crack thins out and climb gets very balancy".

Get up onto platform, work lay back crack into below fridge stone, hang off and power through 2m splitter handjam crack up onto slab and to anchors of The Daltons.

Surmounts a 2m roof then easier climbing through a delicate mantle and lay-away.

Sweet line. Follow series of horizontal cracks starting left of fig tree on wall, into fine holds and funky mantle higher up. A fair amount of handjams available and an array of sweet moves to be made. Anchors are on wall or can top out.

Start on block into overhang in corner working direct corner of mound to top.

Obvious crack on South face of North-West Peak. Long walk in, sharp rock. Possibly no gear on this crack from 3/4 of the way up. Has another crack on the west face of the same peak which looks better and longer. Access top via fixed ropes on North face of NW peak.

Follow thin crack past chock stone onto grassy ledge then up finger crack to larger fig beyond slab for natural anchor. Crack isn't great for nuts, better off taking a handful of cams no greater than 0.75 BD. Can alternatively end to left along slab after higher finger crack to bolted anchors.

Very easy start for first 5m (14) and last 6m is overhung with big pockets and a crack. It can be done directly (tape your hands) (23) or layback from crack (19).

Start on most obvious wall on the opposite side to the creek. Veer up three ledges then traverse the wall/face with horizontal thin crack, then up LHS arete and topout. Alternatively come down via installed rap rings.

The crack in the corner toward the left of the first amphitheater you turn into. Is climbed breaking the crack into 2 pitches.

1. 20m (18) Ground to cave mid way. Belay out of this.

2. 25m (18) Then up crack and slab. Up semi overhang to ledge.

Has 2 rappel bolts (spread far apart - be wary). Alternatively traverses right and up to a bolted anchor to rappel (take link as are hangers). Steep in parts. Has great views of Cairns and Green Island.

Ought to be fairly amazing.

An airy, delicate traverse at mid-height across the back of the pinnacle and 25m above the water to a crack splitting an overhang to an eyrie-like belay and rap station.

A 30m aréte, split by cracks rising out of a clear pool.

At lower ampitheatre

To the right of the PBS through a 45deg overhang.

Further to the right again.

Jump start up to obvious ledge, move right and mantle. Finish up and to the left on bad crimps.

This climb is on the 2nd of the Trinity Beach cliffs at Taylor Point, right hand side. Starts below flake, goes up to high first bolt. WARNING: ANCHORS (AND LIKELY BOLTS) SEVERELY RUSTED/CORRODED

From the lower section of Glacier in the shaded alcove, walk around the large boulder and start at 2m long hand crack below small slab (you will see first bolt above you). This crack start has been said to be the hardest part for those who don't hand jam well, but is honestly pretty chill.

Will need 16 draws plus anchor/belay setup (or 18 draws). First pitch is quick draw hungry.

1. 30m (19, mild crux) Up short crack and onto mini slab following bolts past overhang (might want to extend a draw). Traverse to right gaining mild exposure and up wall again following bolts. Keep climbing until you reach ledge with dirt and trees. Ring and chains here to belay off.

2. 28m (17) Traverse to the right (keep an eye out for the bolts as they become elusive). After about 3 bolts head up mild rounded arete onto mega jug hauling and decent exposure (be sure to look back at the view). Follow up line to large 2nd ledge at base of far right tree. Here there is another chain and ring setup. Be sure to use this anchor to belay and not to rappel!!! There is an anchor further to the left to rappel later (following string, stay on belay). Next pitch goes up from this far right anchor.

3. 18m (16) Head up slightly left from anchor following bolts to right of arete-feature, up to prow (big ledge, like a ship's bow! ). Here the belay anchor is on the ledge on flat ground - not wall - good to belay while sitting. Chains and ring again.

4. 12m (18, 2nd crux - style change) Stay on belay to walk to huge rock block to begin climb, can belay from tree. Here is the most unexpected part of the climb - the gnarly slab. Follow either left arete or central-right face climb (depends if you like slopers or gnarly micro edges/crimps - using quartz veins, recommended). Follow slab up to ledge where same anchor type as previous is. Fits up to 5 people on ledge. Bit squishy.

Escape:

This line requires a rappel off due to it not topping out.

To rappel from pitch 4 use ring at top of slab to get back to anchors at top of pitch 3.

Rappel from top of pitch 3 anchor's ring (be sure it isn't twisted!) to get to top of Pitch 2.

HERE YOU MUST NOT RAPPEL FROM ANCHOR AT TOP OF PITCH 2, IT WILL BE TOO LONG OF A RAPPEL! Follow paracord along ledge, to the left when looking at the wall (stay on belay) to anchor about halfway along paracord length. Here rappel from ring as before (60m rope minimum). When at bottom be sure to flick rope when pulling as it has been known to get caught in the wall.

Walk right along ledge past tree (safety to this) to use the anchor ring at top of pitch 1 to rappel back to the ground. Tie knots! Use a prussic! - this rappel is airy.

Also there is an escape from the very left hand side of the top of pitch 2. This is a bush scramble down from the left of the far left rappel anchor. It takes you back down to the bottom bringing you out to the left of the start of the first pitch. Still be careful, steep and loose as there is no real track here, but works in dire need.

Ethic:

Be safe, wear helmets (some loose rock- would otherwise be 3 star), take all rubbish from area, respect wildlife, vegetation, rock and hardware.

Easier start to right of 19. Traverse into first bolt over flake. WARNING: ANCHORS (AND LIKELY BOLTS) SEVERELY RUSTED/CORRODED

Lower area - far left climb (lower down slope)

Lower area - central climb (next to/alongside MLJ)

Lower area - far right climb (higher up slope)

Fun, short, traverses.

Three hangers on climb and two hangers for anchor. It has no rings at anchor thereby setup anchor via preferred method (draws or cordellette and biners). Can clean using higher rappel bolts or poles. Do not feed rope through bolt plates (hangers) to lower!

'M' at start of climb.

'TFG' at start of climb. A little faded.

'ST' at start of climb. To left most anchor. Ideal to stick clip 1st bolt. 3.5 BD cam fits in crack between 1st and 2nd bolt if desired.

The climb starts on the right-hand side of the cliff, on a ledge. The belay bolt is on the left-hand side of the ledge and the first lead bolt is within reach.

This stunning line will lift you from the forest canopy to soaring heights with amazing views back onto the ocean and all the sun exposure you can handle. Take plenty of water and enjoy the breaks on two large ledges along the way. The lead bolts are 6mm twisties and the anchors are a mixture of expansions and twisties.

1. 25m (19) Traverse left and Up along interesting moves, 3D holds and a cheeky right traverse to finish. This is a long and wandering pitch, so extend draws as required and watch for ledge falls. Finish at P1 anchors for a stance/hanging belay that has enough room for three people.

2. 20m (16) Crimpy, slabby, enjoy the view, credit card edges and finger pockets. This will be your rest, so soak it in. You will finish on a fantastic halfway ledge with enough room for dance. Note that you can escape off the climb by traversing along this ledge. The escape is protected by some expansion bolt and a very short grade 14 diagonal slab.

3. 20m (22) Grade 22 with the sequence, 20ish with the reach. Business Time crux pitch, with the hardest move off the deck. Forgiving bolt spacing will help you aid the crux if necessary. The dirty mantle protecting the finish is pure FNQ filth, grab whatever you need to get over this edge. P3 belay is a large ledge. Watch out for bees and lantana. For the 2nder, unclip and retrieve the first couple draws before setting off for the crux to make your life easier. Also the top belayer needs to watch tension here once the climber sets off incase they fall mid crux. With rope stretch the climber could fall into space and find it tricky to get back on #prussics.

4. 26m (19) Fun to start, tricky finish. Steppy, ledgy then becomes vertical with the crux in the last 5m. P4 belay is a seated belay on a slabby edge. The views are stunning! Watch the sharp edge on your rope just before the belay.

5. 12m (5) Legend says the first ascent of this pitch was hands-free, no shoes, no chalk. Please respect this ethic. As contrived as it is, you will finish at the summit proper.

Descent: Rap from P5 down to P4 anchor. Do not try linking the rappel to the top of pitch 3 without an 80m rope (and if done, mitigate rope drag). From P4 anchor, retrace the line. Is advisable to not link pitches on rappel. From P1 anchor, rap straight to the ground, not back to the starting belay bolt.

Climb Mystic until 4th bolt, then go left to last bolt and anchor of ST.

Bolted line starting just left of the gentle aréte at the first amphitheater you turn into. Fun partial cruxy move mid way.

Climb Mystic until 3rd bolt, then go left to 3rd bolt of ST. Go to its anchor. Cruxy.

Climb ST until 3rd bolt, then go right to 3rd bolt of Mystic. Go to its anchor. Goes through all the cruxes.

Jared Tyerman

Trek up many good features.

Heads up corner to right of tree. Pull out of water via nice holds into corner. Becomes slopey up top, as well as committing due to boulder in water below to left. Be wary of this. Is a nice wander up.

Traverse right to left along wall, top at end above mossy section or fall in where you please. No chalk or shoes required. Shallow far right for start.

Heads up obvious feature. A relatively safe meander up.

Start on a few thin pinching holds, climb into rails, up through breaks. Matched finish.

Follow easiest line of holds all the way up and out.

Water start central left of cave, move through roof, join TFoTTF.

Follow easiest line of holds up to horizontal juggy break before moving right on jugs and big undercling. Layback the crack up to the flat ledge before moving back left and finishing as for The Weir.

Up flakes, across and under roof, over bulge.

Enter from in the water, a little slippery rock to get started but once up above the water some nice holds and a a big crack to work your way up. Come up the left side of the big overhanging tooth to reach the top. Enjoy the jump from the top into the deep water below.

Up smaller holds, traverse into corner, out roof, up headwall to rail via big move.

Quite a difficult first couple of moves with little holds on offer. once over halfway up, an abundance of secure holds makes this ones easy to finish.