등정들 Artful Dodger에서

Finally! Not on the same level as artful dodger but still a great line!

Great climbing

such a gorgeous climb!

Pretty chuffed to send this in a session. First of the grade!

Got to the OK rail but not finding a good purchase there. Lost some right hand skin on the first move to the crystalline edge. Great rock quality on this boulder.

Working this from the OK right high crimp, left hand in 2 finger pocket and left foot on small edge to get the left hand onto the OK looking high edge. Slightly dynamic move and need more pads for the uneven landing.

Now have all the moves done and mostly linked to the leaning juggy feature. Will rope up to get comfortable with the exit then come back with plenty of mats, a spot, and fresh skin.

Dialed in the beta after some months away from it. Ready to send when skin is fresh again!

Pulling up left from the high undercling feels good but not reaching a good place on the left hand edge yet. Can establish a mono edge but can't move from there.

Still can't reach the higher better part of that first edge.

Finally got solid beta and got to the big pinch. Keen to go back fresh.

Put a rope on. Feel solid about the top out. Also think all the techy foot beta is now sorted. Stefan pointed out a sit start possibility to work on after sending the stand.

Got established up on the slopey pinch a few times but what I assumed was an easy top out from there proved tricky. Suboptimal conditions didn’t help. Very happy with consistency on lower sequence. Feel clear about beta tweaks for a smooth top out. Keen to get back on with some decent conditions. Keen to start playing around with a sit start as well which looks nails and might be able to add a few grades onto this area classic.

It seems like the main left side pull has broken

Got it to the top good edges above the lip but didn't pull over because it's not clear there's a good way down without someone who can move the pad to a better landing. Fun climbing though. At v3 I assume you start with feet on the blocks at the bottom.