등정들 Mt Gibraltar에서

Above my ability, that chimney is tough!

Five years later and no less desperate! At least I got the chimney this time.

Really tricky. I think I can just about see how to do it.

Hard getting established above the break in the chimney. Interesting though.

Must try some different beta

Warm-up, linked into the bottom pitch (20) to make a giant technical superpitch. Fell off at the last bolt on the onsight (which is the crux), then pulled back on and -after fumbling around for about a week- figured out the mind-boggling finale and topped out. Very 3D and super-technical, with some strenuously thin moves near the bottom, and an utterly blank final section that requires moves the like of which I've never used anywhere else. Brilliant!

Second shot. In some ways worse than the onsight attempt (I fell off below where I reached on the onsight, by overthinking a sequence and consequently making a mes of it), but the top (crux) moves went relatively easily once I got the brain in gear, and I FEEL like the Send is there for the taking. I can't wait to get back to this weird masochistic monster. Thanks for seconding me on this one, Leith.

Only did the first couple of moves and was really pumped so didn't continue.

Stoked! First shot of the day placing the draws, and climbed as an uninterrupted 40m pitch from the ground. Not hard at 25 if you're a technical stemming master, but damned tough at the grade if your not (fortunately I'm right in the middle of that scale). Demanding climbing, and super-weird and technical. Tackling the crux sequence in the last 3m of ~40m of climbing is mentally taxing, especially considering the absurdity of the required moves. I HAD to come back for the send of this beauty.

Another dog to add to the list. I think I fell and a very common spot, after the last draw one metre from the top. It took me a few attempts to figure out a usable sequence for the last moves to the cliff top. Great climbing on mostly good rock but a couple of sharp holds, wish I was better at stemming.

1 shot, some sharp holds, some flexing. Running out of time getting bloody hot in the sun. Will have to come back for another shot.

Nice stemming moves.

2nd shot. The obvious single-pitch linkup of the best parts of Slow Twitch into the best parts of Sluj Gulpa with an extra bolt and a tricky techy traverse boulder-problem to link the two. The new climbing is harder than any move on either route, and puts you in the thick of Sluj Gulpa without the stances. Some rock still to cleanup on the traverse, but all the crucial holds (that I used) won't break off, so as this climb cleans up it will just get better. Sure, I'm biased, but this line rocks!

A great climb but tough. Once you step onto the traverse its on with tricky feet. Have to come back for this one.

This multi-pitch was super fun. The first pitch had a fun crack traverse, the second pitch, a tenuous start followed by thin slabbing, and the final third pitch contained a mixed bag of thin slabbing, vertical face climbing and some tiring lay-backing to finish off. Pitch 1 - Second Clean, Pitch 2 - Second not clean (came off the last thin move before the end of the pitch), Pitch 3 - Second not clean (a solid climb with a few hard moves that made me peel off with a pump).

Monumental and visionary, absolute classic. With Marek. Decided to link P1 & P2 together (not recommended, due to bad fall potential for most of P2). P1 - Onsight but for a few false starts (wasn't too sure how the route started). Hard start, exciting traverse. P2 - Onsight. Hard start, very thin friction slabbing. P3 - Dog. After a titanic struggle, I took a nice whipper from next to the last bolt, 1m from the jugs. Pulled back on and clean to the top. Stellar pitch with everything you want!

With Marek. This time it was his turn to tick the first two pitches (done in fine style), and I wanted a rematch at the tough top pitch. 1st Pitch - Clean Second; 2nd Pitch - Clean Second; 3rd Pitch - Dog, I took another monster whipper 10+m (this time finishing the fall upside down) 1m from the victory jug (trying to throw for it). Even after a rest, the top sequence is bloody nails (24?), and the top clip is almost impossible. I reccomend clipping a 60cm Runner on it when you rap in! AWESOME!

With Paul. Pitch 1 - Lead Clean, Pitch 2 - Red-point, Pitch 3 - Second Not Clean.

Finding a good sequence and getting really used to friction slabbing meant I could clean up pitch 2 which was a lot of fun. I was also happy with my progress on pitch 3. This time down to 1 rest, that being the nails hard move right before the end of the climb. I felt stronger than before on the remaining moves up to there.

3rd pitch only, 1st shot today. After finishing up the Slow Twitch Extension (25), I rapped back to the hanging belay at the start of P3, and cruised it with John the Kiwi belaying (and his draws already on the route). Bloody brilliant climbing, and I'm stoked that I felt so-strong on it (after having climbed 3 x 25ish routes back to back). One of the best 23s out there.

Seconded all three pitches clean so JengA could go for the onsight. Short multipitching, but rad. 4th lap, and still loving it.

Chalksight Is good to finally do some of the climbs paul has been talking about for so long. Great short 3 pitch multi that isn't that hard and has good fun climbing on each pitch.

Pitch one only, nice

only P1

Done as 2 pitches. Led P3. Awesome climbing with a bit of everything.

Repeat. Seconding Stephen on P1 only. A great little pitch with a tricky slab start, and a brief (but engaging) moment of thuggy traversing on funky rock.

P1 only.

Now this is an absolute doozy! Rapped in bathing in the golden light of a beautiful sunset and from the first move pulling onto the wall this route is a classic! Loved the hand traverse on the big crack, the technical slab of the second pitch (although I ran 1&2 together with some long runners for minimal drag) and the final pitch is an absolute gem!! Engaging and sustained right to the final move. Can highly recommend this wall for night climbing as the rock was nicely warmed from the afternoon sun. A brilliant experience :-D [led all pitches]

Been on the fridge list for a while, nice rock, varied great climbing

Every pitch is fun and unique. Not just really good for the crag; objectively really good. Get on it!

Deserves every star! Linked p1&2.. Not ideal, but made it work. Excellent little adventure in the winter sun

Not my best head game today. Needed one go to figure out crux on pitch 3. Great route!

Amazing first two pitches but bailed on the last one as sun was going down and we both felt exhausted. First pitch is a bit physical while second pitch is full of very tiny feet and tiny hands (felt amazing tho). Last pitch start with an intimidating traverse.

Liam linked P1 and P2 and I led P3 traversing in from start of Slow Twitch Extension. Tricky moves entering the slab pitch and 80km/h winds made for an intense finish over the lip. Growing up in Bowral I've looked up at this cliff my whole life so it was an amazing experience to get up it finally. Gets me psyched to try the other lines on the next visit home.

Third pitch only, which feels pretty solid at the grade, but will have a better idea on lead

Most appealing climb of the crag, I highly recommend it. This multi is worth travelling for, even if that is the only thing you do in the crag. Beautiful lines with radically different style through each pich. The person who bolted it made a real beauty!

Climbing it, even while hand dogging the third pitch, felt like a revenche on the attempt from last year. Maybe the third one will be a charm, I will come back for it.