루트들 Central Coast에서

FFTRA Will Monks Dec 96

2m Right of Daves Dinner

The first route you come to after the walk down. Tough boulder problem after second bolt.

Sustained and independent line just to the the right of Sea of Slopes, with a punchy lip traversing start on pockets and a long sustained wall above. Don't cheat by finishing at Sea of Slopes anchors - the real finish is right and above the roof (hidden bolt) on the black slab.

Top rope problem 2m left of corner, never bolted due to poor rock. Up center of short wall through roof and short headwall above. DBB.

Left hand route of crag. Start up crack past 4 carrots to single anchor U bolt

Starts in cave up hill and left from BB. Traverse diagonally R and up to finish as for BB

Start: Below overhanging off width corner at left end of wall. A gutsy little climb. Straight up the corner. Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979

Sit start at left hand end of cave and do not use lip holds and keep your feet above the bottom ledge as you traverse right to top out, like "Version".

Up alcove right of rumba, with a small cam if needed. Step left onto arête and up to bolt belay. Can traverse left to access U bolts to clean.

Straight up - project?

Sit start next to tree and go straight up

Opposite the right side of the second cave is a pyramidal boulder with a narrow arête on the uphill side. Sit start and climb arête to top out.

Start matched on the side pulls. Move through underclings and a sloper trending left towards the jug and top out.

Start matched on the far most left juggy rail in the middle of the big cave. Traverse right before meeting up with "the only way out" and finish as this problem

Stand start 1m to the right of 'Opium' on crimp and undercling moving up and slightly left via flat rail and undercling flake.

Start matched on thin edge, move up to slopey slot then out right to flat crimp then top out over slopey lip

The contender for best in the cave? Climb as for 'Sloths in the attic' to the the big jug rail, from here traverse the lip back-towards 'Room with a better view" through some small edges and a tough cut. Top out as for "Room with a better view'

Sit start under the small prow on the low left hand crimp and right hand low on the sloper rail. Right heel up and continue directly up the prow and mantle in the little cavelet.

Ledges and back wall for feet are not in. One of the best lowballs going.

Start on low edges and climb using only the arete

The best of hard routes on this bloc. On the backside of the First World Problems Boulder. Sit start on obvious jug and make your way directly up via a micro edge and some tricky heel hooking. Unsure on the grade.

Start on jug rail in cave, bottom rock excluded, up and left to mega jug. Traverse left through righteous crimps, huck to sloping rails on the lip then top out direct for a wicked finish.

Start for 'Halberd' and continue up and left to the three rightward facing pinches. Without moving left to the slot at the mantle of 'Halberd', climb directly up using a rightward facing crimp. Top out to the right, as per 'Bec de Corbin'.

In the scoopy section, climb straight up the good slots and escape slightly right when topping out.

The orange overhanging open book corner to the L of the wet cave. The hardest part is keeping your feet dry on the bottom of the route.

Start 2m right of Omega free, straight up to Fisherman Basket anchours.

Dirty corner-crack 2m right of H.

The downhill facing arete. Sit start in the slopey jug hole and follow sidepulls and a mono to a desperate top out out right a bit. Nails at 5

Start as for Lara's Lips, traverse left low using the bowl and up from the horn.

Just left of the left arete straight up on good but diagonally sloping holds

Sit start on right arête of bay side of boulder. Up arête to undercling and when on slab follow ramp left to tree branch descent

Same as "Toblerone" but instead of climbing up and out at first crack head diagonally up to the top ledge and traverse to the second crack before topping out.

Matched start on jagged blocky crimp moving directly up to top out

Stand start between the obvious crack and rail features moving directly up and topping out.

Sit start at arete left of SC. Up into alcove then exit left.

Sit start low moving directly up through large pockets and crimps to top out. All time!

Stand start R/H as for chrysanthemum on slopey sidepull, L/H under lip, move left hand up to crimp edge then bump R/H up a series of sidepulls and top out through feature

Arete to the right of sagittarius, Sit start, make your way up via a few pockets and jug holds exit via scoop or arete. Dont Fall

Closed Project

The face of the arete and slightly right for the grade

A bit of inversion novelty. Lay down start to Freedom 35 with head under overhang and feet out. Invert in to offwidth and pull up off ground with stacked hands or other shenanigans. Climb crack turning whenever you feel like it is possible.

1m right of CH

Steeper sharper neighbour. Step on 2mts L of HCS, up edges passing 2 BR's and on, keep to the R of jutting block on the way to the top. Cams useful. Belay as for HCS.

Start in the corner on the right hand side of cave (shared start with Gonzo). Hard start to a pumpy traverse left. Shared anchors with Farout

Starts 1m R of cave , straight up to U bolt

The left crack finishing up in the cave. Ring bolts for anchors.

Hard moves to horizontal fissure, bolt up into cave rim and short wall with bolt above

Locate the big blob on the left side of the low cave. Follow the holds out left to the jugs outside the cave.

This is a slightly harder variant of 'Knob Jock' if you do not use the big ramp for your feet to start.

Anyone with knowledge of name, grade and FA or project status please add.

Balancy traverse start from left onto face above small cave then up slab to U-bolt. 1m right of SS.

Stand start on two edges, Move up right hand to a slimpy edge and pop to a left hand slotted edge. move up to the lip and mantle out.

Same matched start as Bec De Corbin but instead of moving right from the flake, move left and up to mantel just to the right of Ōdachi.

At the front left side of the cavelet, standing start with left hand in thin deep slot on the face and right hand undercling on tiny edge under lip. Move out right to good slopey edge then up to left crease. Move up from sloper on the buldge to good hold, gain the lip before sketchy mantle just right of the plant over arete.

On right hand side of the same bloc as The Aquarius.

Low start on small crimps. Climb up and left using good edges until you make the arete and then traverse up and right along it until you make the “V” shaped jug 2/3rds of the way up. Top out from there to finish.

Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYgUPWJA6b/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Agapanthus left exit, start as for Agapanthus sit,climb the first half of the problem then match the high left flake, then bust out to the left arete/lip, then up and over left of the nose

Sit start using the two pockets left and right of the hollow in the boulder. Use some trickery to work right and up the slimpers to nice mantle press.

Keep shoes on, there is some broken glass on the ground.

5# - #3

FFTRA Peter Monks, Will Monks Dec 96. The crack starting out the roof at the L end of the orange wall 200m above the southern end of Lobster Beach.

2m right again. Up through the carrots onto the slab and keep going.

The steep wall on rings. Original route on the wall.