루트들 South Coast에서

Open book corner capped by a small roof crux. Beware of the loose looking block on left.

Obvious left-leaning, diagonal crack to the left of Fisherman's Basket. Take big cams.

Towards the left end of the face is a large, left-leaning, freestanding block. Starting to the left of Fisherman's Grief, jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to the terrace. The original grade was apparently 9, updated to 12 at some point. Did it in 2021 and it is more like a 15... Perhaps the block has moved a bit?

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection.

Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start.

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête.

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top.

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

Around the back of the Guns, Germs and Steel block is a recessed bay with a very thin corner crack at the back left. Interesting technical moves past 3 badly rusted FHs, then easily up to rusty anchor brackets.

Right of the falls. Rap in and start when it gets too slippery. follow the ledges and corner crack to the top.

Set an anchor 10m right of the fixed abseil point. Rap in to a small ledge just above the water. Two 0.5 cams at waist height will prevent a swim.

Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant.

Step across the water onto the arête, head on up, cams in horizontals. Arrange gear under small roof and pull through to glory. Alternate starts possible.

The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition

Variant of Boys Light Up. Up gymnastic start then straight up L arete only.

Crack left of Flight 11.

Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

Start as for Fisherman's Dunny, step left on break, then straight up the face past two carrots on thin holds to natural break, straight up to finish.

Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top.

Straight up the face, starting 3 meters left of Fisherman's Dunny. Begin easily on jugs past a carrot making balancey moves to gain small pockets. Trend right towards the horizontal break, then up to good holds at 2nd carrot. Finish straight up using small wires or cams for protection.

Short, sharp, bouldery arête on the Guns, Germs and Steel block at the mouth of the dark chasm. Has two bolts and a single bolt lower-off that looks a little rusty as of 2021...

Original description: Around left from Bindun in a small dark chasm.

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.

Partially toproped (upper half only)

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish.

A strong trad line that looks much worse than it is. Locate rock wedged in tree about 2m back from edge. The crack is visible splitting the cliff edge. Rap from tree into small belay ledge 5m above swell. Stem up v-corner then over bulge. Easily up wide crack then launch up the sustained handcrack to top.

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack.

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD.

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts.

Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5.

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

Committing trad climbing split by three ledges. Starts 3m right of major corner at small right facing corner. Spaced small gear and a long reach move at about 7m. Finish up leftwards into small right facing corner flake. Take standard rack plus micro cams (Black Aliens).

Sustained flakes and one of the best routes here. Continuous rain showers thwarted attempts. Starts 3m right of TTL below open book corner. Stem up this (UB) to horizontal break. Lay- back up wonderful flakes to top.

2m R of Sedition. Delicately bridge through thought provoking corner up to steep top wall.

Flake line just R of YC.

Face and book corner just R of Yosemite Corner. (RPs Optional).

Up obvious thin cracks and pockets, 2m R of Zymurgy. Up tricky crack to large pocket and up. Originally graded 15.

Up undercut flake corner to ledge then continue to top through two roofs.

Face R of DCL. Tricky, committing start leads to easier climbing to the top. Stepping out right certainly lowers the grade.

Flake at left end. Up steep flake, finishing up slab.

Main central crack up to pocket and finish.

1m R of ED. R leaning flakes to trick top out, steeper than it looks.

Climb the prominent crack to the top. Can be turned into an epic if you mix up your left and right.

Start below the small, right-facing flake. Up this, pass flared horizontal (small cam), and up to ledge. Couple of runners in the back, then make the big step up and left (unprotected) and cruise to finish.

Committed approach, up faint crack then step right and follow weakness.

Start at crack line at water's edge, and finish up left facing corner on R.

Start up wide slot, and continue up crack.

Boulder moves up the steep arete, 2m R of Yosemite Corner.

Classic of the crag. The overhanging nature of this climb will leave a leader digging deep as you go for the top. Start on left and step onto wall over perpetual puddle, traverse right into line and follow face and flakes up to large horizontal. Move R to double threads and blast for the top.

The corner crack finishing straight up. Reach the start by funky traverse in from the right end of puddle. Lose a star if you traverse in from the left.

The far-right corner — if only it was 3x as long!

Start up diagonal flake, step right around corner, and up crack. (Variant start for Coffin Slot).

Major crack. Jump puddle to start up crack/ramp, to ledge and then up through easiest route to finish.

Deceptively tricky. 1m L of corner. Follow thin crack up until move right onto difficult ramp finish.

Face left of major corner LoF.

First crack at left hand end, just right of cavey section. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Absorbing climbing with lovely moves and a surprise finish. Straight up faint crack to ledge.

First climb on Brave New Wall. Flake system at left side of wall. Good value for a short route.

Face 1.5m R of SP. Pumpy face climbing to ledge, continue through double overhangs with a tricky finish.

Little L facing corner in centre of slab. Bouldery start then up delicate corner to thought provoking finish. Shy on pro.

Prominent blank arete just R of major crack. (no pro).

Sketchy lead. No protection for 6m. Delicate, balancy, and plays with your head. Requires a good spotter. Finish up through fun overlaps.

Squeezed in 1m R of YGDB.

Up arete at start of PC. Fun arete with sensational no hands rest for those with long femurs.

A few moves of interest just 1m R of AoR. Pulled out the old spoogie boreal aces for this one.

1m R of RM, another Bittangabee delight. Up the jugs.

Delicate start to underclings and up.

2m R of NMB up to L undercling and up.

2m L of BN. Straight up past major pocket, finding excellent slots on the way.

Unbeknownst to most people, God had a seaside holiday before heading off to create Mt Arapiles. This climb is a testament to his creative abilities. The gem of Bittangabee, steep, strenuous, and sensational. 1m R of P3. Up right-leaning diagonal, straight up to finish on splitter crack on capstones.

Last crack before right corner. Bridge corner, pull onto wall, and follow crack to top. A deliciously pumpy excursion.

1m R of OB, up corner weakness to the top. No pro.

1/2 m R of NMB. Boulder start to jugs and finish up left facing scoop to ledge and then up top wall on R. Very little pro.

Blank looking face just R of JS. Delicate moves to thought provoking finish.

Start 1m R of BTSS at right-leaning flakes. Energetic face climbing up to big ledge. Set a belay and look for whales blowing (also great ledge for a bivvy if you want to stay the night). Pitch 2, straight up big pockets to top. The original belay boulder has been swept away, so belayer may require waders.

Absorbing face climbing on right leaning flakes, 1m R of TSB.

Climb corner and R face to roof. Plug the roof with cams on R allowing fear and trepidation to mount. Gather your gusto and with an air of expectancy, launch out to huge horizontal and up face to ledge with ever-decreasing jugs and thinning pro. Up to top.

R of Sunday Outing, up chimney to ledge and follow seam to top.

First climb on Buddha Wall (small sloping wall fronted by perpetual puddle). Step onto wall at Buddha's face (clay stone pocket, whose features have now washed away). Trend left to top without using the major leftmost flake.

Let Buddha show you the way to enlightenment. From the face of Buddha, straight up.

Half metre right of TMW. Tread the path with care, euphoria awaits you at the top.

Start as TRP, immediately step 1m R and delicately slab your way to nirvana, keeping out of the R crack for full value. Shy on pro.

Start inside the cave with hands on the grippy sloper on the back wall and feet on the back wall just below your hands. Climb across the roof, heading out right (from looking at the cave), until you reach the edge of the cave. From the edge, head up the face and over the top. Something to note, the starting hand hold and footers are the only part of the whole back wall that is in this climb. When getting near the edge of the cave it may be tempting to use the back wall that comes round, it’s not in.

Start in little overhung cave closest to the water and pull up from sit start on pinches and throw to rail above.

3m left of the previous climb/back up the beach. Small rightwards leaning crack corner, follow up from sit start without using the large left hand ledge.

Same sit start as 'The Whale In The Room', except punch out left to ledge and mantle

Left again of the previous climb. Easy moves up face and moving up between vertical cracks

The furthest most right boulder. Up the slightly overhanging prow arete from a sit start.

Up the obvious leftwards leaning crack

Middle of the blank face to the left of the crack

About 2m left of the entrance space. Climb past the diagonal cracks on big jugs to top out.

1m left of previous climb. Start with hands in the high rails, up to the bad pinch and deadpoint for the top.