루트들 South Coast에서

Sit start on the undercling in the cave, blast out to the small pocket and top out over the highest point, using the crack for left hand

Sit start in side pull undercling thing (eastern side). Follow crack line up face (left side, south facing).

Unclimbed slab project at the far end of the cliff. Probably not a bad landing if you are clever about it, and a decent bit of climbing.

Start on hold just right if the crack and straight up.

Fairly high! See the two pockets up high in the vague corner? Climb to the top via these. Start on obvious low jugs.

Sit start at beginning of middle diagonal line. Follow line up and out. Rock below is out.

Open Project.

The perfect splitter finger crack through rooflet on the east side of Dr Dream Boulder.

Sit start in side pull / undercling (eastern side). Head straight up blunt arete (stay on left side of it).

Up the candlestick the easy way

Sit variant to Cames Jameron. Hasn't been done, hasn't been tried. Sit start on the good low crack-y holds on the left side. Big RH move to the start of Cames Jameron. Top out as normal.

Start by establishing with both hands on slopey rail jug. Note that you must establish before climbing, if you use your momentum from pulling on to do the move, then you didn’t do the boulder.

Sit start, left side of face, where jugs and awesome grooves are. Straight up and top out.

Big roof. Looked at by Neil but no bolts (yet).

Sit start on the jug under the roof. Climb up the arete and top out. Project, approx v6.

Sit start on jugs in left corner of eastern face. meander up face wherever you please.

Up the south face of the Candlestick

Line up the arete between the slab and the incut line. Crimpy and sustained. It has been confirmed (unexpectedly) that the water below is deep.

Straight up the crack and topping out over the top to the left.

Unprotected low down without side runners. An eliminate line, squeezed in and avoiding everything in the cracks to left and right. Straight up bouldery moves past the small undercling.

Start lying down and pull onto jugs. Up to lip. Traverse left along lip to arete, flop your body around the arete. Easy mantle. Can also mantle the lip at the start for an easier boulder, but the secrets of the twig will remain unknown.

Sit start, middle of face, straight up tallest part of face to top out. Very tall, pad it out.

Sit Start with hands on the Jugs, trying to reach the big fissures on the way

Sit start at the right of the slab and climb up the slab. Project, v6 or v7 approx

On seaside of boulder (south face). Sit start on slimpers.

Start in the centre of the steep undercut slab. Crank through the bulge (21) or traverse in from left (20) and follow the crack line to the top of the slab. Rap off slings.

Up the weakness to the cave platform. Watch out for waves and spray, and the odd frail rock

Sit start on corner/arete thing (right side of face). Up on jugs to top out.

Bridge and stretch your way up the corner, then head left under the block.

South-east corner. Sit start on slopers. Wrestle the bulge and mantle. Note that only the main boulder is in (don't dab the friendly looking small boulder).

Duplicate, please delete.

Up the weakness above the cave to the left. The direct start a few meters left looks even easier

No existing route description. Location unknown.

Straight up the middle of the boulder. Has been attempted once from a canoe start while hungover, with no chalk and no shoes. Probably no harder than V3.

Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above.

Start on horizontal break. Multiple ways to go, choose your adventure.

up the crack at the right end of the cave, looks easy, but high enough to require pads

L of WT. Delightful climbing requiring a tad of commitment. Aim for the dinner plate then finish up L facing corner and overlap.

No existing route description. Location unknown.

Far left.

Expansion bolted climb that follows the vertical seam directly up. Looks like a generous amount of holds.

Small overhanging face. Low sit start with right hand on good side pull and left hand pressing down on the ledge bit. Exit left or right.

Start inside the cave with hands on the grippy sloper on the back wall and feet on the back wall just below your hands. Climb across the roof, heading out right (from looking at the cave), until you reach the edge of the cave. From the edge, head up the face and over the top. Something to note, the starting hand hold and footers are the only part of the whole back wall that is in this climb. When getting near the edge of the cave it may be tempting to use the back wall that comes round, it’s not in.

Variously described as "Adam's one" Jump or reach up to shallow pocket. Make your way up to the top from there. Traverse left or solo to the top of the cliff once on the ledge.

Right of Boys light up. Start down low left hand on left side of sloper with flat top, right hand slightly around the corner on worse sloper. Move out left and up to side pull rail, match, move left to good crimp and finish up on flat top jug. There was chalk on the holds before I got there so sorry if it was already sent.

Almost too easy to be a problem, but the kiddies (and oldies) will love it. The obvious left leaning diagonal right of No Onion.

Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (right two). Straight up.

First route done on cliff. Due to an overly anxious leader and lack of initial game plan, seconder could not follow as rope was pulled up. Oops, my bad ...

Right middle.

Bit more saistained and thin

Sit start, move into the flake, manage the dino

Past the cave (ocean to the left). The vertical hand crack. V1 if you can jam. Make your way up till you are standing above the crack. Either jump off or solo to the top on average rock.

Up the crack in the corner, mantle then up to the top.

Flakey rock, I don't think I'd trust gear placed in it but you could try. No obvious top rope potential. Climb with care.

Good potential for a harder climb starting at the undercling to the right of Cames Jameron, moving directly up through some shallow holds.

Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (left two). Bust leftwards to pinch then up face.

Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner.

Far right.

Looks to be the hardest of the lot perhaps.

Stand start with both hands on the edge, follow the fisure

Prominent Boulder on the cliff side. Hard to find.

Obvious high ball crack problem. Needs lots of pads, or top rope it. Open Project

Sit start. Up the butts on the arete (western side) off small boulder.

Sit start under where Star Wars Hat starts. Follow Star Wars Hat but continue up past the sloper and to the higher rail.

A link-up of the easier part of Tennis to the Racket chains. Follow the line of least resistance away from the Tennis dihedral.

Stand start on rail underneath small diagonal rooflet. Make your way up.

The right of the twin cracks.

Has it all, gymnastic start leads to a delicate face capped with an overhanging finish. All in a short action packed 9 m.

The left of the two twin cracks. Delightful hand jams.

The excellent dark and shady corner that regularly sees climbers unfamiliar with the art of bridging grovelling in the crack.

1 metre right of AQPFR. Up flake and straight up wall.

Up onto the block and up the flake. Frequently used as a down climb to access the platform.

Same start as EBs Make it EZ. Up flake and into corner.

Start up corner, break through roof on the left, finish up crack.

Step across the water onto the face and place gear as you see fit (Don’t comment on the government). Trend left (of the political landscape) over the bulging (capitalists pigs) and place cams in the sickle shaped crack. Undermine the status quo by using underhanded techniques in the crack, then head straight up the middle of the road on good crimpers. Easier than it looks, easier said than done.

Up the small undercut crack just around arete, approx 2m to the R of Boys Light Up.

Major corner on R end of the wall.

Start at Fisherman's Basket but swing right onto the blocky face and up the corner to the top. Protection looks marginal... Top-rope only!

Original description: The left-hand crack of the first recessed corner. Up (ode to Bittangabee). MH: Could be same as Fish-N-Shits? Grade is too low for anything really.

Towards the left end of the face is a large, left-leaning, freestanding block. Starting to the left of Fisherman's Grief, jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to the terrace. The original grade was apparently 9, updated to 12 at some point. Did it in 2021 and it is more like a 15... Perhaps the block has moved a bit?

The inside corner on the right-hand side of the recess, climbing the chimney behind the Guns, Germs and Steel block.

Old description: 7m left of Ticks and Maggots. MH: Left?

On the large freestanding block that has broken off the main cliff line. Leftward layback up the sharp arête to flake, smearing to the top. No gear.

Start easily up the diagonal crack behind the flake, onto ledge then up purple wall straight above (crux) protect with large cam.

(The 1st climb on south end of platform) Tackle roof on jugs, left of obvious corner. Then straight up the easiest line to left side of orange rock bay and top. (Step right to a variant finish, grade 18).

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

P1: 18, 40m - Up thin crack a few meters right of the arête to a detached flake. Traverse right around flake and move back left above it. Head up to the base of the bottomless chimney around the corner to the belay ledge with some fixed gear

P2: 15, 50m - head right and up from ledge for 10m, tarverse 30m along orange rock. Continue 10m to top. back clean to P1 and rap off fixed gear

Directly up, balancey, with nuts to protect the initial moves. Up to the hand crack, straight up to the ledge, then the top.

Obvious big corner with two parallel cracks up most of the central portion.

Central crack in the wall across the gap, overlooking the deep ocean gutter.

Arête immediately to the left of Cenotaph Corner Down Under.

Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous, left-leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. Jams needed. Watch out for pythons basking on the horizontal below the top!

Leftward sloping finger crack at back-right of the embayment.

Towards the left end of the face is a large, left-leaning, freestanding block. Starting to the left of Fisherman's Grief, jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to the terrace. The original grade was apparently 9, updated to 12 at some point. Did it in 2021 and it is more like a 15... Perhaps the block has moved a bit?