루트들 전통등반로서 Southern Tablelands에서

first pitch is rather a adventurous outing, follow obvious weakness upto ledge then veer off left to make access up high then step back right into overhanging crack, follow up the hands layback till just before the next ledge at hanging belay. pitch two is more orgasms, up classy finger diagonal crack, this one will be sure to keep your swear jar full of dollars and honest till the very last move. will be more desirable once some love goes into the upper cracks, hint hint

yes this is the stellar crack running up the face of the north west grey wall looking from camp!!!! would be a 3 star if the start wasnt so god dam spicy! 'R" rated for first three bits of gear which would almost result in a ground fall anyway.

after the nandos spice you make access into a beautiful finger and hand crack with moves that really make you question the grade.. or are you actually just rock climbing??? pitch 2 is just a 5m climb upto next belay ledge. pitch 3 stepping out from the belay ledge you instantly gain 50m of direct exposure, absolute gem, enjoy the swim to the very top... p.s dont forget to stop and look around and see were you are!!!

1. 20m (16)up the nice lichen filled crack passing some shrubs that are not big enough to trust and just get in the way to the obvious large tree for a hanging belay.

2. 35m (16) up then traverse left on horizontal crack then some balancy moves trending right upto a muddy cave for belay

3. 5m (10) grab those burnt trees and mantel

worthy single pitch crack in its self, possible to bail off the belay ledge all naturally with detached block from the main cliff. will link up to probably something really hard all the way up but potentially will need a bolt.

1. 15m (17) up the face of the texas flake, place a red cam in perfect slot over to the far left then down climb the back side of the texas flake to start of the second pitch

2. 20m (19) up offwidth corner and amazing 3D climbing

3. 20m (23) the golden pitch, near perfect corner crack system, has everything from fingers to fists, steepness, sustained, pumper. will keep you being humble

1. 15m (17) follow the weakness up the face of the texas flake, body belay from the other side of the flake.

2. 15m (24) standing tall off the texas flake place fiddly gear then charge off into sustained fingers and technical climbing up the orange wall next to camp.

3. 8m roped up scramble to next obvious belay at final pitch of golden ratio

4. 20m (23) up the last pitch of golden ratio

1. 15m (10) scramble up top texas flake

2. either link up as one mege pitch keeping rope drag in mind through the roof, or climb up crack from the top of texas flake till roof crack then traverse right to belay (18)

3. 15m (23) it doesn't get more appealing as equally terrifying! set your gear and then start grovelling your way up through the roof until finally the crux!

get the crew to have the cameras on standby, this one gets the sunset picture awards

this line is the one to give you the experience far beyond your expectations, it packs way more than it gives away which makes it so f&#%ing fun.

1. 20m (22) start off from small finger crack up for 6m then start working your way into the corner as the opening gettings bigger to the top you just chimney your way to the roof. miinmal gear once half way up, but safe grounds once established in the chimney.

2. fists to offwidth roofcrack.... 15m (22) gear in order on this pitch is BD #4, #3 from the belay and then 2 BD #5's for along the roof. breath taking pitch, kodak moments from the belay ledge for the seconder for sure.

this line is the one to give you the experience far beyond your expectations, it packs way more than it gives away which makes it so f&#%ing fun.

1. 20m (22) start off from small finger crack up for 6m then start working your way into the corner as the opening gettings bigger to the top you just chimney your way to the roof. miinmal gear once half way up, but safe grounds once established in the chimney.

2. fists to offwidth roofcrack.... 15m (22) gear in order on this pitch is BD #4, #3 from the belay and then 2 BD #5's for along the roof. breath taking pitch, kodak moments from the belay ledge for the seconder for sure.

1. 30m (17) mind blowing corner offwidth crack, you can get in it, you can climb outside of it, just dont knock off the loose boulders up top!

2. 15m (17) facing out to the valley from belay ledge veer off to the left fist size crack up to the very top

gear is good with a standard double rack upto BD #5

1. (1) get your selfie sticks ready for this iconic summit. clamber up the easy gully's and mantle the large chockstones behind it.

2. (10) up easy slab to good gear in break,traverse delicately right with gear at feet, hugging the tip. insert some small cams in the pocket, playing around abit to get them in there. mount the final big block and belay by wraping the girth. simul rap off before your bum gets too sore from sitting on the hard rock for too long

1. 18m (24) the money pitch, right leaning varied size crack, over funky bulges with no good rest on arapiles like rock.

2. 25m (21) continue up and right on stellar crack system. balancy start on bomber gear leads to expose,vertical and interesting climbing all the way to the anchor. big cave with ample gear.

3. 12m (21) punchy and bouldery climbing out of the cave then some final tricky moves guard the top. belay from huge egg shaped boulders

Follow obvious corner crack up to DBBs or mantle up to walk off the top.

Start in the corner, then on good hand holds to the top.

Fist sized trad crack.

The over hung crack on the far right of the buttress. Descent anchors only.

Solo / caving - could be trad protected. Enter the cave Zawn and thruch and dangle up towards the day light. At the mid way point you can either crawl through the tiny slit (if you are a five year old) or carry on up through the precariously perched boulders to the golden eagles nest. Exit with care and scramble back down past the upper level climbs.

Even better in the wet where the rain may lubricate the tubby.

Not recommended, the rock is terrible.

Walk up from the carpark near the 'Welcome to South Coast NSW' sign until you hit cliff, find the path of least resistance up the choss wall for 4 pitches

First section OK.

1. 40m Double crack on front of protruding buttress.

Top section is worthwhile.

1. 40m Widish crack/chimney on left of protruding buttress.

A bit of a grunt.

1. 40m Crack/chimney between wall and left side of protruding buttress.

Looks a bit scrubby. Start: Corner right of Condor Corner.

1. ? Up corner to tree.

2. ? Right, up rubbish, or escape right.

An interesting first pitch. Big gear needed. Start: Obvious, largish corner on point of Peregrine.

1. 40m Straight up.

2. 15m Up again, widish bulge.

A good first pitch, the second is a shocker. Start: Thin crack in wall 10m left of Condor Corner.

1. 15m (crux) Up thin crack, 2 rests.

2. 45m Up wide crack in orange wall.

Looks harder than 20. Start: Corner right of Silvertail.

1. 50m Up to roof, thin crack and pockets to tree.

A first rate crack and climb. Start: Obvious hand size crack.

1. 42m Straight up.

Should be a good beginners climb when fully cleaned. Start: As for Main Route.

1. 30m Leftish up corner to tree.

2. 10m Rightish across chimney to crack and flake, up to tree.

3. 20m Left to corner crack.

Second pitch worthwhile. Start: Just left of Silvertail.

1. 30m Leftish up corner to tree.

2. 30m (crux) Into corner-chimney, to ledge, across and up to chimney.

3. 10m To top.

Will be reasonable climb when fully cleaned. Start: Corner left of Silvertail.

1. 30m Leftish up corner to below tree, then left into smaller corner-crack, to tree.

2. 35m (crux) Left into crack, to wall, to corner, to slight overhang, to ledge.

3. 10m Up corner.

Thin and steep. Good looking line. Start: As for Sericulus.

1. 18m Up to tree.

2. 35m (crux) Thin crack then wall and over block.

3. 15m Thin black crack and small roof.

First climb on Bowerbird Buttress. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Right end of buttress. Large flake and weakeness to tree.

1. 18m Up to large tree.

2. 18m Crack to nose, then left to largish ledge.

3. 20m Left into corner-crack, to tree then right to corner.

4. 20m (crux) Up corner.

A wandering route. Start: Middle of front of buttress.

1. 6m Scramble up to blank corner.

2. 10m (crux) Up then into crack in right wall, to slopey ledge.

3. 40m Right to widish crack, up, then diagonally left, up corner to tree.

4. 24m Up twin cracks.

Superb line. Start: The orange crack system with small overhang. Giles does not remember much about the route, so I cannot give you a description.

Good climbing in a grand situation! Start: Up ramp at base of buttress, to tree.

1. 20m Onto ledge then into corner, up to small ledge.

2. 20m Continue to larger ledge.

3. 17m Up to roof - poor belay!

4. 18m (crux) Out under roof then up.

A long, fairly easy chimney. Start: Gully separating Middle and Bowerbird Buttresses.

1. 13m Chimney past two lots of blocks.

2. 20m Up to large blocks.

3. 35m To blocks, through at rear, up to grassy slope.

4. ? Up grassy gully to top.

Start: Short corner on lower right side of buttress. Route follows easiest line up the buttress - that is all I can remember about it.

An enjoyable, easy climb. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Corner just into gully at far end of wall.

1. 25m Corner-crack to ledge.

2. 10m Left over block into wide corner, to ledge.

3. 35m Left around nose to crack, to corner, up to top.

Third pitch provides interest. Start: Easy looking crack at right end of Raven Wall.

1. 10m Up to tre.

2. 15m Up corners to largish ledge.

3. 10m (crux) Orange corner.

4. 45m Left to crack, then to corner, to top.

Very enjoyable slab and corner. Start: Marked. As for Dance Of The Butterfly, but moves right at 7 metres.

1. 40m (crux) Up 7m, rightish to small tree, slightly left, up to ledge.

2. 40m Corners behind blocks, then corner and crack in black wall.

Enjoyable slab/wall. Start: Thin crack and weakness about 20 metres right of Wonga Crack.

1. 30m Follow line to tree. Either abseil off OR up as will to top.

A good first pitch then easily to top. Start: Marked. Fairly obvious leftwards slanting weakness leading to thin crack.

1. 25m (crux) Up wall to ledge.

2. 10m Right, then corner to shrubs.

3. 35m Corner and crack.

4. 20m Up as will to top.

Two reasonable slab/wall pitches. Start: Immediately right of Wonga Crack.

1. 45m Up black wall to piton, slightly left to ledge.

2. 45m Up Wonga Crack to rising traverse line - across this.

First climb on the crag. Part of first pitch has fallen down. May need re-grading. Start: Obvious crack in middle of wall.

1. 25m Up to, and around, bulge to top of block.

2. 10m Corner to ledge.

3. 15m To tree.

4. 25m (crux) Obvious crack to ledge.

5. 15m Up as will to top.

More enjoyable than it looks - thankfully. Start: As for Wonga Crack.

1. 50m Easily up to tree, onto higher ramp, left to corner, then up to large ledge.

2. 18m (crux) Up orange wall, into corner, up to tree.

3. 18m Widish corner-crack, to ledge then right to back of ledge.

4. 20m Delightful chimney to top.

Thin climbing on steep black wall. Start: Left end of Raven Wall, below overhanging gum tree.

1. 20m Up black seam past bolt.

Felt harder than 18 to me. Start: Orange corner in left end of middle ledge on Raven Wall.

1. 20m Up cracks then left into corner.

Good fun. Start: Crack opposite summit pinnacle.

1. 10m Up crack.

Pleasant first pitch. Start: Overhang behind tree.

1. 13m Up crack.

2. 14m (crux) Corner-crack at rear.

Two fair pitches. Stat: Right of Fools Errand. Cross over Fools Errand at belay.

1. 10m (crux) Up corner, left to block.

2. 20m Straight up to top of tower.

A fair climb. Start: Diagonal corner-crack in right side of Nest.

1. 12m Up corner to ledge.

2. 18m (crux) Follow diagonal crack.

Flake is superb rock. Start: Corner below obvious flake and tree.

1. 15m (crux) Up to tree.

2. 15m Up flake to top.

Steep crack. Start: As for Leading Edge.

1. 15m Thin crack in right wall.

Good climbing on good rock. Start: Obvious corner out of Nest.

1. 8m Crack and corner.

2. 17m Straight up.

Start: Right of Scallywag.

1. 25m To ledge, widish crack to roof, right, then squeeze to top.

Superb rock.

1. 25m Follow easy crack right of Sparrow.

Easy way to top. Start: Left end of Nest.

1. 25m Up crack into corner then chimney.

A hard and varied route. Start: Obvious yellow ramp on right of Flying Buttress.

1. 10m Up to ramp.

2. 40m Yellow ramp to large block, up cracks to left.

3. 10m (crux) Finger crack in orange wall.

4. 10m Corner and cracks.

A couple of very enjoyable pitches. Start: Marked. At 'open space' at righthand end of Flying Buttress - chose your own line through variety of cracks and corners. 1 and 2. 50m Choice of cracks and corners to ledge - wide corner plus 2 cracks in red wall.

1. 20m Left to small tre, up behind this, right past overhang then up to ledge.

2. 30m Right to main line - short wall then slabbish corner.

3. 15m (crux) Onto block then up crack.

4. 25m Up corner, on block, across to cracks, up.

Variety of pitches, including three "steps" at top. Start: Marked. As for Peewee - move left to original line, up cracks etc.

1. 35m Up to large ledge.

2. 18m Either crack to ledge.

3. 15m Corner to small tree.

4. 20m Corner-crack to ledge, slightly left, up to largish ledge.

5. 12m First of three steps.

6. 15m (crux) Second step.

7. 25m Third step - chimney.

A way to Flight Deck. Original start corner/crack further left and down. Start: As for Flight of Fancy.

1. 30m Diagonally left to nose of buttress.

2. 30m Up as will.

A varied and enjoyable series of corners and cracks up front of Flying Buttress. Start: Marked. At left sloping ramp, goes straight above marker.

1. 25m Up slab to thin crack and corner.

2. 30m To widish corner-crack then series of crack in steep wall.

3. 20m (crux) Easiest looking crack - slightly overhanging, up to tree.

4. 45m Series of crack and corners tending slightly left.

First climb on Flying Buttress. Kevin had celebrated his twenty-fifth year of climbing just two days previously. Start: Centre of lower wall - directly below obvious central crack and corner.

1. 35m Up corner-crack.

2. 30m Through the tree to slop then as will to base of main corner.

3. 20m Mixed tree and rock climbing to ledge with gum tree.

4. 20m (crux) Up cracks, then right up to large ledge.

5. 25m Rightish onto flake and pinnacle, back onto wall then up to large ledge. Around to the right of summit blocks.

6. 15m Up blocks to right OR straight up crack.

A quick way to get to the Flight Deck. Start: Through the tree, high to right of pool. 1 and 2 Just follow the easiest way through the vegetation.

Top pitch is enjoyable. Start: Left of nose on Flight Deck.

1. 20m Tight chimney to crack, up corner to ledge and tree.

2. 5m Across to trees.

3. 20m (crux) Rightish to small wall, up to corner, to double cracks, left to wider crack, then up.

Top pitch is a good wall and crack. Start: On eastern side of Green Gully, the corner behind the tree.

1. 30m Up corners to largish horizontal tree.

2. 20m (crux) Crack left of tree - straight up.

A very good climb. Start: The major corner-crack on right side of Green Gully.

1. 20m Up wide corner to ledge.

2. 30m (crux) Up great corner, belay at roof.

3. 30m Climb roof via huge wedged blocks to left, up weakness to ledges.

The rock gives the climb its name. Start: Left side of Green Gully.

1. 15m Up crack to ledge.

2. 5m To top.

An enjoyable meander that stays just left of nose all the way to the top. Start: Crack immediately above the pool.

1. 20m Up corner to steep part, then left, up to belay.

2. 25m Onto block, then across to tree.

3. 25m Up as will to large ledge.

4. 30m (crux) Up cracks right on nose, then left and up to trees.

5. 5m Up to largest tree.

6. 25m Up corner above tree.

7. 20m To top as will.

Some enjoyable moves on steepish, black wall. Start: First crack on right wall in the black gully.

1. 42m (crux) Straight up.

2. 13m Left to abseil tree.

Grade is for when a drought is on. Start: Just follow the stream - it is the actual falls.

1. 20m Chimney through hole, up to ledge.

2. 20m Up to next ledge.

3. 20m (crux) Rightish then up. 4,5,6. 100m Easily up.

4. 15m Bridge onto block, right into corner and up.

An easy way up the left wall. Start: Immediately above pool.

1. 40m Follow series of corners and ledges.

Always in the shade. Start: Right corner in gully east of Isolated Buttress.

1. 20m Up corner and right ledge, then up to top veering left.

Another ho-hum. Start: Right side of Isolated Buttress.

1. 15m Up crack then through tree.

The finish is tree-ific. Start: Right side of Isolated Buttress.

1. 30m Up corner, then rightish to tree belay.

A fair corner and crack. Start: Right side of Isolated Buttress.

1. 21m (crux) Up to tree.

2. 19m Crack behind tree.

Should be freed. Start: Thin crack on right front of buttress.

1. 35m Up crack.

A bouldery start. Start: 6m right of Hotchpotch.

1. 10m Up crack and corner.

Better than it looks. Start: Front of Isolated Buttress.

1. 42m Rightish up corner to blocks, up to tree right, then crack to tree to top.

Exactly. Start: Offwidth crack on left side of Isolated Buttress.

1. 30m Straight up.

Harder than it looks. Start: Right side of Striptease Gully on Isolated Buttress.

1. 20m Up blocks to below tree, left then up crack to top.

Another ho-hum. Start: Curving crack at rear of terrace.

1. 15m Up crack then left easily to tree.

Ho-hum. Start: Short crack on left wall of terrace.

A pleasant companion route to Striptease. Start: Corner-crack at very top of Striptease Gully.

1. 30m (crux) Up small overhang and crack. Right to chimney. Up to tree.

2. 24m Scramble up to small corner, up, then left along crack to ledge.

3. 24m Up wall keeping to obvious crack.

A short but pleasant climb. Start: Left side of fourth buttress.

1. ? Left of two cracks to chimney and tree, then to ledge.

2. ? (crux) Straight up.

One of the better ways up the third buttress. Start: Corner-crack right of third buttress.

1. 23m Up corner-crack.

2. 15m Left into corner-crack, up to tree.

3. 23m (crux) Obvious corner.

4. 19m Rightish to crack, up to top.

Short but pleasant. Start: Crack on right side of third buttress.

1. 25m Up to roof, then right, up flake then to tree on left.

First climb on third buttress.

1. 30m Up 7m then right to thin crack then right to another crack then right to ledge.

2. 12m Onto pinnacle then wall left of detached pinnacle.

3. 15m Short wall.

4. 25m Tree and wall left of corner, up corner till right move onto wall, up to large block. Slab on left to finish.

Some interest. Start: As for Face Value but move right.

1. 30m Follow steep crack to ledge, then as for Face Value.

Short but interesting. Start: Second crack on third buttress.

1. 15m Up groove, then right, up wall to small stance.

2. 20m Up twin crack then as you will.

First pitch is quite good. Start: Left side of third buttress.

1. 25m Up wall and crack.

2. 25m Past loose rock, then wall and slab. 3 and 4. 40m As for Wanderlust OR abseil off.

First pitch O.K. Start: Corner hidden behind left side of third buttress.

1. 25m (crux) Straight up corner crack.

2. 25m Up and right to largish tree.

3. 30m Up behind tree OR abseil off.

Aka "Heart Of Darkness" From the second belay on Odyssey, crawl right and up the ridge and around to the second belay on Command Performance, through horrendous vegetation. Continue up CP.

Highly recommended. Start: On right side of Odyssey Buttress.

1. 25m (crux) Up steep thin corner.

2. 25m Up twin hand cracks.

3. 25m Up right side of pillar.

4. 25m Up corner.

Two reasonably good pitches --- recommended. Start: Corner crack on right side of Odyssey Buttress.

1. 20m (crux) Up crack into corner.

2. 30m Up corner to large ledge. Climb as will OR abseil down gully to left.

Easiest way up second biggest buttress. Two good pitches. Start: Middle of wall on Odyssey Buttress.

1. 30m (crux) Up wall heading left to tree.

2. 15m Layback up.

3. 18m Left of belay, up blocks.

4. 18m Up corner to ledge.

5. 18m Up overhang to op.

Enjoyable wall and slab climbing up front of buttress. Start: Left end of Odyssey Buttress.

1. 25m (crux) Straight up to ledge, around to large tree.

2. 8m Back down and into crack to large blocks. 3, 17m Up crack, right onto wall, then up as will.

The first climb on the cliff. Start: On right side of Square Gully.

1. 20m Dirty gully behind tree, then crack.

2. 30m Steep ramp.

3. 60m Chimney to right of steep crack.

4. 15m Dirty crack.

5. 25m (crux) Up easy gully to overhang.

Too dangerous-----not recommended. Start: Middle of rear wall in Square Gully.

1. 16m Aid up to flake.

2. 8m Mixed climbing to large block/flake. N.B. This block moves!

3. 36m Up flake to slab and wall to ledge.

4. 8m Right to belay point.

Start: Crack about 10 metres to right of Hercules. Obvious crack/chimney for which I have no description as Keith cannot remember much about it. However, if you cannot find your way up this line you should not be here.