등정들 The Hood Area에서

So sandy, took some cleaning. Great!

Awesome!! 3 sessions. Classy sequence, took awhile to find the right balance with the heel hook to snatch the slopey pocket. Fell high on the second last attempt! Memorable.

Decided to have a look-see as I'd done Hustler's Dream first shot! Solid climbing up to an even more solid boulder problem crux! Without working out the move I lowered down and found the beta on youtube. My "redpoint" go ended at that same move but this time I was at least able to do it after resting. Felt possible in better conditions.

Crap rock, hard moves. Managed to sort it in a day thanks to some good beta from Joe. Veeeeery close to pumping out clipping after the crux.

#2go Classic!!!

Tester sessions after not touching rock for six months. I felt pretty good - I had a few one hang ascents but still a bit hard. It will take a few attempts to go.

I'm collecting routes that I get through the crux and fall getting to the top. The key beta I gotta remember is be strong and don't get too pumped.

Still a great route but definitely a bit weaker than I was two years ago.

Hard first move to classy sustained crimpy moves that don't let up until the anchor. Got it 3rd attempt after a couple of laps to clean all the dirt and cobwebs off..

Beta Vid: https://youtu.be/HsyDCEJO7Y8

Wow, I know my crimp strength is pretty wimpy but could barely pull on to the starting holds (RH flake and LH undercling?), let alone move off them. The moves from the pocket onwards were great though! Well, in hindsight at least. At the time I was so annoyed at myself for having to pull on draws through the start moves that I just wanted to get to the anchor and leave haha

Hard! I didn't do the boulder problem start but I did the rest of the moves. Plenty of spots to fall off after the start - including the final moves to the anchors. Will be hard on link!

Still feels very hard! I tried the boulder problem start this time - and yes, fucking nails though I felt like a bit of hard trying and a bit of luck and I'll stick it! Starting from the first good hold, I made it to the last move on link. I reckon I have a fighting chance if I can just stick the start!

Attempt 1: I made it through the boulder problem start for the first time with a slight change in beta. I then made it all way the last few moves feeling really good but punting with a foot slip. Really disappointed!

Attempt 2: finger went "POP!"

First go after dogging the draws in and cleaning the holds - a year since my finger popped and I'm feeling better than ever! First 29!

Thought I was doing Insane Funk and the Evil Grip. Actually has some new moves in it.

Pumpy dawg

These links gave me more grief than I was expecting, pumpy dawgs without the funky kneebar

Barry the cable guy is one strong Moe Foe! Crux move from 5th to 6th draw, main crux is the glamour boy cover shot. Very very hard move.

The 7 to end all 7's. Get your power endurance certification.

Can do all the moves, sooo freakin sustained! It'll go.....eventually ;-) [2]

Rainy easter long weekend. What a good route! Got it 3rd shot. It's pretty sustained. No real rest until after the crux. That heel-move is rad. Fairly tough for 27 I reckon.

Awesome! Punted after crux 2nd shot, fine 3rd. Not 30. Similar grade to Evil E

Nice. Flashed, but have done Funky Gripster ages ago... Thanks for the beta Dave.

Really cool moves through the first three quarters of the climb, not super hard, but hard enough to feel rad when you latch them. Made it to the crux on my flash attempt, but then took about 20 hangs just figuring out that one move. Tricky!

I didn't have any other ready projects so decided to give Evil a go - expecting that I'd get utterly spanked. Totally went as expected dogging the draws in. With very low expectations, my first attempt had me at the crux feeling surprisingly good! Pity my heel popped just as my fingers were creeping over the crimp. Next shot I was way more pumped but made it through the crux move! Unfortunately I was too pumped on the next moves and punted off before making it to the jugs. So stoked to have even had a chance of the tick!

Fuckin stoked! Probs 27.5 though if you accept Coneheads is a 28 then it's 28.5. First shot of the day! I felt solid the whole way - not too desperate.

30 - haha! Way easier than Livin' a Hustler's Dream and maybe on par with Evil E? The dyno to the hueco isn't actually hard but it sure does make you feel like a boss!

I forgot how good this route is! 10th anniversary (or close enough). So good to climb without any redpoint jitters and just enjoy it:)

The top is great!! The bottom half...not so much. Did it straight after pimps so was unnecessarily super pumped.

Not sure if the FA used the funky gripsta rest? Great route either way but I suspect 27 with 28 without.

Classic climbing up to a morpho stopper

A reason to come back to The Hood!

Really great, just not my cup of tea

Pretty damn awesome.