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루트들 The Citadel에서

~에 탐색하기:

루트 필터들:

등정 필터들 :

-

다른 필터들:

  • 관점
  • 경사도
  • Vegetation
  • 하강
  • 바위형태
  • 스타일
  • 컨디션
  • 날씨
  • 식수 처
  • 경사진 곳에 들어서다
  • 제 시간에 도착
  • 적법성
~에 의한 분류 대량편집(최대100)

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등급 루트 장비 스타일 인기도 암장
Unknown
Unclimbed orange scar route

About 50m right of "The Dark Crystal" is the obvious, rectangular orange scar about 30m up on the wall which is capped by a 3m roof.

The route goes up the face and through the L side of the orange scar and up the headwall in two pitches.

  1. Start on the ground, level with R side of orange roof. Tricky start (1 bolt needed) to slabby crackline. Up this for 20m to below roof, then follow the crack to L side of roof and then through this.

  2. From here, bolts required for the next 25m to a sloping ledge on the R; alternately there is 15m more above ledge to the big grassy tree-covered ledge.

Set: Lee

미상시등 중 50m, 2 The Citadel
Unclimbed crack to steep arête route

10m R of "Unclimbed orange scar route" below crackline.

This route will be pretty hard, but straightforward and well-protected. Crux may be at the top arête. It will certainly need bolts. Up steep crackline through sloping ledges to arête then up this.

미상 25m The Citadel
Unclimbed upper-wall white-streaked route

Starts in the middle of the big grassy ledge at the top of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun.

미상 20m The Citadel
20 Unclimbed overhang arete route

On the L of the seaward side of the boulder and a couple of metres L of Twin Paranoia. About 2 bolts required up the short scooped face and overhanging blunt arête.

미상시등 중 7m The Citadel
- Unclimbed arete route

About 7m R of Double Exposure. Up pitted arête (2 bolts needed) to below 2m roof. A variety of options now exist. Step easily R to escape up slabby wall (easy) or step L beneath roof and attempt finger crack through roof (stoopidly hard).

미상시등 중 13m The Citadel
Trad
4 Unclimbed easy route

Starting about 3m R of "Unclimbed arete route". Up twin, wide, slabby cracks, then runout up slab to top and probable tree belay.

전통등반시등 중 The Citadel
15 Corner-crack project

Starts a few metres L of the boulder-roof at the large, recessed, slabby cornercrack. The crux is getting up to the tree. Finish at tree.

Set: Steve Baskerville, 1998

전통등반시등 중 8m The Citadel
16 Carborundum Central
1 15 17m
2 16 23m

Go up to scabby, vine-covered ledge to start.

  1. 17m 15. Climb corner past a small tree and up the slabby, black corner with a hand crack and good gear up higher. Continue up until level with vegetated ledge on L and escape off L onto ledge and up into large orange cave to belay (cave not visible from the ground).

  2. 23m 16. Head L out of cave and up ledge through grass and trees to get established in obvious chimney/corner with chockstones up high. Up this with good gear and cruxy moves around the chockstones to a tree and natural pro belay.

Rap off tree with double ropes, or do more pitches on the 60+ metres of rock to the summit.

FFA: Lee Skidmore & Philippa Newton, 1998

전통등반 40m, 2 The Citadel
19 Verdant Vendetta
1 19 15m
2 1 15m

Just like Carborundum Central, this route was only climbed as an access route to bolt The Dark Crystal, and is not recommended as it's a dangerous pitch.

Start at tree belay on top of sloping ledge 15-20m up.

  1. 15m 19 A1. Aim for the vegetated corner-crack and through the roof. Ooze R-wards around arête and onto face. Move up and R to incut on small sloping ledge a few metres L of vegetated corner. Grab hold on face above and fearfully mantle sloping ledge. Sidle delicately R into the vegetated corner-crack and through roof (freeable, but aided by first ascentionist) and then up wide corner-crack above to sloping ledge.

  2. 15m 1. A walk with monster exposure! Traverse R and then around the corner on the 1m wide sloping ledge. The pitch finishes with a 2.5m high layback crack which is about grade 10.

Tree belay, and then double rope rap off tree down The Dark Crystal buttress to ground.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Danny Peters, 1998

전통등반 30m, 2 The Citadel
21 Hidden Facets

Starts at vague slabby corner 3m R of small detached pillar. Head up slab to good crack at 8m. Up crack until it blanks and pull 1m R. Up to pockets beneath bulging 1m roof and traverse 2m L along small ledge to pockets below black FH. Past this through the crux undercling and up to rest at base of superb corner. Great moves up this, pull lip and up slab for 6m to chains.

Mostly around 17 with a short, well protected crux. One FH and extensive natural gear.

FFA: Lee Skidmore & Steve Baskerville, 1998

혼합 고전등반 28m, 1 The Citadel
19 The Dark Crystal

Up vaguely R-tending slabby corner 3m R of Hidden Facets to thin crack at 5m. Mantle up and clip FH on smooth slab. Up to big pocket, then up pocketed overhanging wall. Up steep rock past wide flake and to a slot. More steepness to FH, then trend up and R through overhang on jugs to clip FH on skyline (crux), pull through to massive fishbowl on slab, then up and L on pocketed slab to chains passing fourth FH en route.

4 black FH's and natural protection.

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Pip Newton, Jason Shaw & Steve Baskerville, 1998

혼합 고전등반 28m, 4 The Citadel
Top rope
16 - 19 Twin Paranoia

On the seaward side of the boulder, climb the L-leaning twin cracks (R-one wide, L-one thin) L of the overhang to the top.

Natural pro and tree belay.

FA: Steve Baskerville & Jason Shaw (TR), 1998

톱로핑 7m The Citadel
Unnamed

A route on the boulder left of the cliff.

톱로핑 The Citadel

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