등정들 독일에서 Retreat로서

The entry pitch is really good and worthwhile even if you abseil again afterwards. Probably 35 meters or more. First steep crack and holes then a slab at the end. From the first belay you go along the old rings first a little to the right and then directly up into the crack (fist, hand). It felt harder than the first pitch, but probably the power decreased and my crack technique was really bad or not existing. Then we had to abort because of the approaching darkness. Rappelled down with head light So the limited free time was used to the maximum.

#lastrouteoftheday

Couldn't make out the bolts from the ground so I trusted the topo in the Schwertner book where this is drawn as a single pitch with "high first bolt". Ridiculous. Put one nut in half-way up to the ledge, then realised at the "first bolt" that the traverse is a separate pitch and it's impossible to do it without bringing up a second, so I lowered from there.

Leider kam die angekündigte Regenfront dann doch etwas früher als erwartet

Leider haben wir beide es nicht geschafft, in der Mitte der zweiten SL über die Kante zu kommen.

Wow how exhausting. Doing first pitches in one push was a bad idea. Rope drag was a pain in the ass (two half ropes). Nice laybacks but a little bit too much for the first rock day 2020.

Had a very quick look at it. No way I'm doing this alone. (And I probably don't have the strength either way )

Seit langem mal wieder ernsthaft Schiss gekriegt. Traumhafte Platte. Aber bei der Höhe vielleicht lieber mit nem Pad mehr und Spotter bin am vorletzten Tritt umgedreht

Zefix, irgendwas im Rücken verklemmt. Aua aua, Schluss für heute...

To scared…

More pads and spotters needed.

Nice start but too high for my taste with only one crashpad

No way I'm topping out into the dirt and moss with nothing whatsoever to hold onto

Ging leider oben raus doch nicht, wegen des Schnees.

Probably quite good, but I stopped trying after the first vertical to slightly slabby part took me quite some time to figure out and a second slabby part was still before me below the crack.

Did not manage to do the hard part from the second to the third bolt, but will try again. I wasn't able to hold the tension long enough to fit my left hand into the good slot, but it was also already the fifth climb of the day. The short part that I climbed was very nice.

Kurz ausgebouldert, aber viel zu kalt um zu lange Zeit zu verbringen...

Rotkehlchen nistet im Henkel

Super, obere Stelle nochmal angucken.

Guide book says 10- after a hold broke. Seemed impossible after the fourth draw with bad holds and bad feet in an extremely overhanging prow.

Llegué a la última cinta, pero no pude hacer el último paso del final.

Solo subí hasta la 3era plaqueta.

Far away

The beginning up to the slightly overhanging part is nice and not that hard. Then, there is one hard move into the overhanging part, and further up is the crux, which is a vertical to slabby boulder with an arête on the left. Couldn't find a solution for that.