등정들 Püttlacher Wand에서 일반 정보를 가진

The question is how right are you allowed to go on the top around the last bolt. Holding the right edge with your hand only seems OK, otherwise it would be way harder but more than that seems like crossing to the next line. Otherwise an amazing endurance line.

Finally a longer one in Frankenjura Not easy for the grade imho

Sehr schöner 9er !

Third time's the charm? Still great.

Perfect placement for a knotted sling in the slabby section, forgot my nuts. :-D #warmup

Marvellous classic, marred a little by the gnarly start after the flake has been ripped off. Didn't remember the section after the belay to be so hard, some proper athletic moves there. Beautiful traverse to the right. I didn't realize the original went up in the left dihedral, so I once again climbed the finish of "Station 53" after resting for ages in the kneebar.

Typical 80s protection, very high first bolt. Climbing in from the left is the best option. Gnarly top section, not easy for the grade, especially with dusty holds and no chalk. Great climbing, though.

Fantastic route. The middle part is already challenging, but not too hard. Crux starts after the big grimy ledge, with reachy moves into the steep part. After a few strenuous moves, the rest is actually a piece of cake knowing the holds, but the airy position still commands some respect.

Intricate journey, hard for the grade! Well protected since it's been recently rebolted

Didn't have much hope in the first place. Even the climb to the crux looks really nice though, so I gave it a shot anyway. Worked myself past the ledge with mantra's beta but then I gave up... extending the next bolt probably helps for figuring out this part.

Totally pumped at the top... would have expected an easier time seeing that I onsighted this five years ago I blame the humidity...

#warmup

Abwechslungsreiche schöne Wandkletterei am leisten und guten Löchern. Must do.

Hoher erster Haken mit einer schweren überhängenden Crux im oberen Teil.

Extrem gute Tour am linken Rand. Musst du. Wandkletterei und wunderschön oben um die Kante raus.

3rd GO I got flash pumped twice

Hard

#repeat

Tried to go more directly over the last bolt, seems like many people try this. Much too hard this way. #repeat

#repeat

Good route, but the bolts are shabby, especially the first two. On top of that, the crux is just after the second bolt, with the third bolt hard to clip. Other than that, it's nice pocket climbing; I liked the top section after the little crack dihedral best, with the thin sidepull flake, some balancy moves to a break and the walk into a good sloper undercling.

#lastrouteoftheday

Fell into a tickmark trap right at the end. Literally the very last move of the route. Honestly, I would like to meet the master artist who painted the route "Verklebte Augen". He should be ashamed of himself. There's almost no hold not marked with a tremendously thick stroke of pure white chalk, even the most obvious jugs, some of which are shared with this route here.

Great, long route, certainly at the very upper end of 8-, just like "Station 53" a bit further right is hard for 8. The second bolt is awkward to clip (with grounder potential), I suppose the flake underneath was better at some point. From there on it's a short section of wall climbing in good rock, followed by the first traverse and overhang of the original "Schütze Gedenkweg" (better unclip some bolts again or extend the bolts with slings); then straight up through the crack dihedral with a great sequence and on to some slopy jugs; at the very end, think hard about how to reach the anchor!

I knew some moves from Riesenslalom

7a+ in guidebook, but 7b seems appropriate

Bad surprise after the rest... good climbing

Wundaschene ausdauerroute:)

Brutal kräftige züge übern wulst! Eig scho am runterfalln gwesen und doch iwie wieda hochgekämpft;)

Started from the ledge below "Ikebana" because the start was wet. Nice climbing with decent holds and a cruxy section after you've crossed "Frankenschocker".

Should probably be upgraded. Maybe holds broke, but like this it's certainly not easier than "Muttertag". Once all the loose holds in the first third are gone, it'll be quite a nice addition to the wall, though. And it's quite long, too!

Incredibly good. It's a shame that the big flake at the start apparently had to be forcefully removed some time ago for safety reasons. The start is therefore a bit awkward, but quickly forgotten. After a few meters of vertical joy, you embark on the seemingly endless journey through the pocketed overhang, with some tricky moves and changes of direction. My belayer shouted "you're already past the actual crux" when I was at the big crack which offers a good, but painful kneebar, but I actually had no idea how to continue. After several half-hearted attempts to go up a bit and back into the safety jugs, I just went for it, grabbed the two mediocre crimps, put my feet up and voilà, the sidepull above was better than I thought. Delicate layback crack finish.

Went wrong below the bulge and couldn't reach the important holds from my position. Needed to work the moves over the overhang anyway.

A sublime climb. You could say it's inhomogenous, because the difficulties start only in the last third. But the climbing to that point is so enjoyable that it doesn't really matter. There are obviously quite a few variants to do the crux, so I can only speak for my version, but I loved the moves. From the good jugs at the start of the overhang, I used a sidepull on the right of the crack and pulled up to an undercling which only gets better once the left foot is up. Then a long move to a handjam in the crack, right hand up into the pocket, further up to the diagonal flake, left foot high up and stand up to gain the pinch on the right. From there it's actually not so hard, but if you're not into crack climbing, the finish might still throw you off (or if your hand slips out of the slightly greasy crack, as for Tobias today).

Good classic dihedral which unfortunately smells of guano quite a bit. The best part is the finishing dihedral/crack above the thorny bush.

6c and a boulder problem

#2go Too weak for the direct version ... Not sure if i did the correct curves, but it felt great, the first crux after the second quickdraw was my favourite.

Beliebtheit lasst si guad erkennen... Coole züge:)

#2go More than surprised about such a quick send of this endurance beauty! First 8b:) definitely myy style with all the little crimps and monos, got pumped like hell on the last few meters! Goal of the year;)

Schene henkel mit kräftigen wulst;)

Such a good one:) spitzt sich zum ende hin zu!