루트들 Cederberg에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

A great climb for beginners. Three ledges with interesting moves in between.

Badly bolted!

Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge. Climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A large nut (BD size 13) is useful for the vertical crack. (now bolted as an average sport route - better as a trad climb)

Sit-start with large flat hold and climb straight up.

suggested: extend the deepest draw in the recess

Sit-start with good hold and climb straight up

Video

A fantastic meander on superb rock. Easier than it looks all the way. Every pitch a classic! Highly recommended.

The route starts at the same place as Swazi Kings and tends to the right

1. 30m (F3/16) Climb up a few metres before starting a long climbing traverse to the right crossing Crackattack just above it's first cruxy roof. Continue to a ledge that runs out to the front of the buttress. Climb up and right following a stepped recess to a ledge at the base of an obvious off-width corner crack.

2. 15m (F3/16) Climb the corner, using the off-width where necessary and good hold on the face to the left. At the top of the off-width bunch up under an overhang and using a good undercling turn the overhang on the left. Continue up to the large balcony ledge above. The next pitch starts a couple of meters to the right and follows the undercut and blocky right hand arete.

3. 20m (F3/16) Stepping off a protruding shelf (cairn) climb straight up the blocky arete and continue up to the long ledge above. Walk to the right. Continue past Blunt Brothers recess for some 30m to a point just before the next large recess starts. There is a square block on the ledge below a short vertical crack capped by a low overhang breaking right.

4. 20m (F3/16) Climb up to the overhang and rail right and pull up onto a protruding square block. Climb diagonally up and right onto the blunt arete. Follow the arete easily and continue past a ledge to a higher ledge below a steepening in the face.

5. 30m( F3/16) Traverse to the right following the ledge to the off-width corner crack. Climb up a couple of metres till able to move right onto the face to the right of the off-width. Pull through a low overhang and continue up the deceptively easy face to the top.

Sit-start and climb the arête.

Start as per the Original Route until the wide traverse rail about two thirds of the way up. Do not rail left, instead continue straight to the top.

Standing Start. Both hands on large side-pull flake. Climb straight up to small ledge, then move left to top out using the inverted corner.

Climb the arch from the left.

Climb the large crack.

Sit-start and climb up diagonally right

Sit-start and climb up left.

Video

Sit-start with the rail and climb up on good holds.

Sit-start under the small roof and climb up.

Sit-start and climb the ar̻te.

Permadraws at the top

Climb the obvious jugs up the middle of the face

Sit-start with good edge under roof and climb up.

Sit-start and climb the juggy arete.

Start: Walk past the 'Pillar Box', past the blank wall until you reach a large free-standing block beneath an undercut wall with Huecos.

1. [16] 40m

   Step off the block and pull awkwardly on to the sloping ledge using low down jugs (boulder problem (awkward)). Move right 3m and climb up on jugs to reach a ledge, move right again to a right tending two-toned crack. Stance at the ledge.

2. [14] 10m

   Walk ±6-10m left, and climb the vague recess to a ledge.

3. [14] 40m

   Climb more or less straight up to the black and red overlaps. Pull thru on jugs. Make your way to a rock plateau.

4. [14] 15m

   Walk left to the 'Apathy Wall' there is a gully (leads to descent gully) to the right of the 'Apathy Wall'. There are 2 prominent boulders on the right before the gully entrance. They are close to the main wall. Start off the left one. Climb to the top. Variation: This last pitch is pretty bland. A way better finish would be to climb 'Apathy'.

Previously a trad route. Perma draws at the anchor.

Sit-start and climb the ar̻te.

Climb the centre of the face.

Corner rounded arête

Sit-start in the middle of the roof and climb straight up.

Find the start of 'Maiden's Prayer'. This can be reached by traversing on a high rock band from the 'Main Wall' which has some tricky and exposed steps and then opens up onto a broader ledge with vegetation. The other option is to traverse on the vegetation level quite far beyond the climb then easily back track up onto the same above mentioned level. From that ledge go up an additional level to a broad rock platform via a short scramble up a grey mini buttress to the start of 'Mothers' and 'Cozy Corner' Start right of 'Mothers' in the next large recessed break.

*RD update, book is confusing and line incorrect.

1. [13] 15m

   Start 6 m left of the bottom of the recess. Climb diagonally right to stance below a recess.

2. [14] 25m

   Climb up for a little bit then at the face access a narrow ledge and traverse right to the access the nose (not really apparent, until you are on it.) Climb the right side of the nose on easy rock up to a dassie ledge to stance.

3. [10] 15m

   Move left on the dassie ledge to access the break, climb up to blocks and over to access a small cave with a prominent thread point above.

4. [17] 30m

   Climb out of the cave awkwardly to access the face out right. Climb all the way to the overhang, move left when forced, onto a ledge. Walk 40 m left past a bulging face to access a red twisted recess.

5. [14] 25m

   Climb the recess till able to move right, continue to the top.

Starts at the belayer bolt. Traverse out from under the roof and climb up a slabby face. Airy!

Sit-start and climb up the juggy wall

Sit-start and climb the flakes.

Crouch-start below the arête and follow the fun seam to the top.

Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress. Lower from Fynhoud chains.

Start with pockets and climb up.

Climb up leftwards along the lip.

Start on the right and climb up on rails.

The first half of the route goes up 'All Along the Watchtower' open book, then after exiting (above) the open book traverse left a few meters then upwards to chains 2-3m below the top of the crag.

On the Aretê right of 'Little Red Rooster'

Climb the black streak right of Cannon

Sit-start and climb up the arête.

#SD

Sit-start with jug and climb the short face

Sit-start with rail and climb up.

Start: Find a scramble to access the ledge which forms the start of the route, ±15m left of the start of the standard 'Dogmatix' route.

1. [17] 35m

   Above are a few overlaps/ overhangs, start below and left of the one which has chicken heads and gargoyles. Start with easy climbing, heading in a right tending direction to the small overhang. Pull through on amazing jugs, till forced right. Climb the ramp easily to the large ledge.

2. [17] 45m

   Starting 10m to the right, climb leftwards to, and through a 'juggy' layback, slightly right then through another layback feature up to stance at the base of a massive layback (left leaning) flake.

3. [16] 20m

   Using the flake climb 8m into a prominent right facing corner. On a very good handrail, rail left and then up to finish.

Descent: Abseil is about 30m in front of you when you top out. Only one rope required.

1. [13] 26m

   Start as for 'Maiden's Prayer' to the start of 'Maiden's Prayer' P2, continue to the end of the ledge.

2. [13] 28m

   Traverse out right till able to proceed upwards to a ledge below a large corner.

3. [16] 28m

   Climb the corner and beyond on prongs to the large ledge.

4. [14] 30m

   Walk right below the amphitheatre. Pass 'Maiden Voyage' break, continue past another break with a massive 2m thick block which is cammed in at around 6m off the ground. Start just before the ledge pinches out at a small cairn with restio's below a slab/ wall with breaks. Climb a recess moving up and right, continue in this fashion to the next ledge.

5. [17] 45m

   Shift slightly right to find the left tending dassie crawl, climb up to this then move left for a few meters till able to step up to below an overhang. Climb up to the overhang and reach for a good jug out left use this to turn the overhang. Continue up to top out.

The right hand of 4 lines on the small wall just right of the Honeymoon Suite cave and directly below the Spout Cave balcony

20 m (16) Start just around the corner on the right of the wall. Pull up directly below the overhanging crack and follow it to the Sundeck above Spout Cave.

Sit-start to the right of Scylla and climb up the juggy wall.

Start: Before the entrance to ascend the descent gully is a flat rock platform. Start on the right hand side below a seam.

1. [17] 29m

   Approach the jutting block below the seam from the left. Climb the seam till it steepens then step right and go up steeply initially then slightly easier ground. At the next steep rippled rock go up and right to the right hand edge of the buttress and climb the corner (right facing) above then the juggy arête to a stance.

2. [13] 35m

   Climb steepish ground on jugs to the next stance, shared with 'The Gully Buttress'. Scramble to the top.

Climb the arete.

Finish left using large ramp for feet.

Climb the slab with incut holds

The entire route can be climbed by using slings on “chicken heads” and bollards. Start at the cairn and head straight up.

Descent: The route ends at a thread point and biner or walk off to the right.

This is an obvious line that has probably been climbed before but not recorded. It has good, easy climbing and is recorded for completion.

Scramble up a large boulder about 5m left of 'Pinstripe Sweet'. Step onto the face and follow the wide crack, layback and flake to the top. # 4 Camalot useful

Sit-start inside the 'mouth' with slopers and climb out.

Climb up on fin and rails finishing slightly right.

Sit-start and climb the fin / hueco feature.