등정들 California에서 Attempt로서

Excellent climb to the top of a fourteener, but deep snow turned us back

Freezing cold and at night, but was still fun to try. Definitely not an easy 5.12.

We couldn't see how to make the switch right into the top crack

Crux from second to third bolt. Somehow had no endurance at all today and just couldn't climb it from the ground, was out of breath after just a few moves. Quite a nice route, though.

Protection by bolts is okay, but there is a scary (at least for me in the onsight) mantle about one and a half meters above the last quickdraw. The holds are quite sharp. One try to put in the quickdraws where I didn't really try the moves (confidence a bit low after the last route), and one try on toprope where I actually did every move on the first try, so it's definitely doable. Might come back later

Very sharp holds. I was bleeding of my finger tip from the route before. So I stopped. Also the moves felt a little too hard for me.

90° overhanging roof of about 5 meters with a hand crack and then a vertical finger crack after the lip, trad apart from a bolted anchor. It was a bit hard to try the moves while also having to put in the cams, so I mostly aided the roof. Jam technique, particularly for the feet, was also definitely lacking. Then, there is a really good kneebar before some more hard moves until your feet are above the lip.

Gen and I woke up with the intention of doing snake hike and/or dike with the spanish crew but forgot to exchange contacts or formulate a plan the previous day and consequently left ourselves little time for the 32 hour approach and a 84 hour descent. We decided chossohead arete would be a good little replacement mission. Little did we know.. that the climb.. actually doesnt exist! We located the chosshead and began ascending the chwitchbacks to the chockface where we dropped gear and went about locating the start. The next 2 hours was a veritable highlight reel of dangerous gully chraverses and checking the chopo from the book. Gen roped up at one point, put one cam in the wall and magically turned a number 2 crack into a number 4 crack. I decided eventually that we were both pushing our 9 lives and that we should bail down the scree. Gen was incredibly patient throughout this shit show and i was also incredi.. no i wasnt. An uncompromisingly shite day in the hills.

Had a bash as I was up there, very physical

tried to do without the aid to start and couldn't quite get it

I gave up in the chimney/stem section. I could probably have struggled up to the final mantel -- but not sure it was worth it to thrash through, and wasn't being fun.

First an overhanging flake and then the crux, protected by a bolt: getting from the flake into a crack on the left

Next time...

Got the starting moves, and one piece in -- but then couldn't figure out how to proceed. Cleared gear and down-climbed off.

Great rock, good placements, good luck.

Super fun. Got the idea how to climb it just before got completely tired. The must-do route.

bailed after trying to pull through on gear at offwidth crux

Set up a top rope. Struggled, bled, and gave up. My partner had better success.

GOD this thing was rough. We top roped it after I climbed Moby Dick. I could barely move in the offwidth piece.

So awesome.

After a nearby accident required my help to assist in the rescue, we were forced to bail before we could really get started. It looks stunning from the start of the climb, hopefully I can get back to it.