Ascensões em Australia como Hang dog

4 more laps - 1 a throwaway to re-equip it. No new highpoint, bit best shot was a fall 1-move from the end of the top crux. Struggled with the heat today, and my lack of patience to wait for the good conditions. My best shot was done after sundown. PACIENCE GRASSHOPPER.

2 more shots. To the last move of the final crux as a warmup in slightly damp early morning conditions on the 1st lap. I made it half a move higher on my 2nd lap (in ideal conditions), then the rope ended up on my crucial footer and I couldn't move it before I fell off . Then the full sun came out and it all went to hell.

5 more shots, struggling with too hot conditions again. 1st was a warmup. 2nd was my best lap ever until I slipped off a footer mid-final-crux. 3rd I ALMOST stuck the hold to finish the crux. 5th shot -after the sun went down- I stuck the move to end the final crux, but was so tired after all these laps that I could do little more hang on it... Why couldn't I stick it 3 shots earlier??? (before I was worn out).

Knee troubles... Spent most of the day on Top Rope or Top Rope Solo, just doing the final crux again and again and again ad infanitum (because it didnt aggrevate my knee, and I figured at least I can TRAIN for this, even if I can't climb it properly). Had one lead attempt at the end of the day, and made okay PROGRESS, but only because I know the route so well... I climbed it poorly.

1 exploratory lap, Top Rope Solo. Only a single utterly nails move I couldn't do (a monstrous move from a fingernail crimp with bad feet, to an okay edge), which is substantially harder than any single move on Serpentine. Not as classy as its hyper-classic neighbour -being more of a crimp-ladder-, though still very worthwhile. The moves above the aforementioned crux (especially slapping up the vague groove to the right) are fabulous, and the finale to rejoin Serpentine is funky.

1 lap on TRS. I spent about an hour on the move past the first bolt of THIS route (another huge throw/dyno, like on Sirocco P2) and though I stuck it a few times, I never sorted the sequence. It's entirely possible I was just too trashed from my efforts on Sirocco, but it does seem massively reachy. I cruised the rest of this (including the section past the 2nd bolt, that most people regard as the crux) and thought that as as a sustained pitch (after the 1st bolt) the climbing on this is far superior to Sirocco. More sustained, varied, better equipped, less contrived, and on more amazing terrain. The "loft" move at half-height is rad, and the top headwall is spectacular. I might try this again in the future when I'm not tired.

Managed to juuust stick that top move! Will be epic to link it all up with such a move at the very end! Decided to leave the bolting as is.

Cool moves! A bit overhung (surprisingly), which definitely made for some flash pump.

Only had time for one go ... 1 sit ... Ooph it was close! Latched the last hold after the top crux, but cutloose and popped at the last second to an awesome whipper. Got back on and made some intricate tweakings to the beta. My heart went into that shot. Loving it.

First time on this route, just getting a feel for the moves. Managed to figure out pretty good sequences for the sustained crux

Felt really good on it, came off at the same spot, but hopped back on after a short rest Andrew got it clean to the top from there. It will go soon!

first shot of the day and got a highpoint placing the draws. Got through the crux section with some new beta but couldn't manage the pump and came off on the good crimps above.

Really nice moves, nice location, felt pretty hard.

Only issue is bolting. Clipping the first carrot bolt felt very sketchy, with a potentially very dangerous fall and no possibility to stick clip. Also with one more bolt added between the 1st and 3rd this would be a sport climb. Only requires the single cam (BD # 0.75 or 1)

Chris was kind enough to let us use his rope

Really nice line! Got up 95% of this one clean. Just before the anchors the climb turns heaps nails which is were i ended up resting! Would love to go back and have another top rope crack at this one!

Probably the best single pitch sport climb I've done in AU's, despite getting absolutely spanked physically and mentally.

Would have been the icing on the cake for a mega gramps week if I hadn’t rushed and punted the last move to the jug Great mega taipan route with a lots of different style and some slippery holds. Get on it!!

Tried super hard on the flash but came off after the slab. 2nd shot punted the mantle and then climbed to the top. Wicked route with a bit of everything. Psyched to put this to bed next visit. Needs an anchor on the headwall.

Hard. Still can't crack that move past the last carrot. A bit of a sandbag...

Tried the dyno about 20 times. Latched the hold on a few occasions but didn't manage to control the swing. Ankles still sore. Onsighted the rest.

Flashed to the last bolt (3m from the anchor) with Emils gear and epic beta stream, but bungled the final gr23 gritstone arete section. I poured a Lot of desperate energy into the flash attempt, and didnt want to give it another shot. Briefly powerful past the 2nd bolt, then oodles of runout, cryptic, stressful gritstone slabbing to the anchor. This is a VERY different route with gear and chalk on it, from the true chalkless ground-up effort.

Two longggg laps figuring it out. Not particularly hard but intensely technical. It all feels very much impossible until you sort it out and then it is mostly fine. Really great route and an excellent Incandescence avoidance strategy.

Really good! Completely my style: long, wandery, very spaced bolts, lots of traddy moves. I'll probably bring some supplemental gear next time for a few sections. Very doable, I just need to get back to this before it gets too hot.

First shot was an epic long siege. Feels impossible until you work out the movement. 2nd shot had some long links. Super technical and exciting climbing, loved the sparse bolting. Keen to get back when it's a bit cooler.

Real fkn good! This route was made for me by the rock gods. Paul nearly accidentally sent it as the sun set and the wall lit up with the most amazing glow. It was seriously surreal. Keen as a bean.

Man oh man. Should have gone but I punted off a relatively easy move just after the no hands rest and then went straight to the top. Silly boy! Even though this route suits me quite perfectly, I don't think it is 28. (3)

Nails and a bit dangerous

Holy shit balls this was a tough line. Through a TR over to have a look and I think I fell about 15 times. Steep and sustained, individual moves aren’t to hard but it’s a cracka of a line hard for the grade

So good...loved it. Much more inspired to send this over Fist.

Absolute cracker of a climb. Hard moves at the bottom and then easy sustained to top. Definitely worth another shot to try get it clean.

Constant steepish slabbing

Started off well, then went to pieces towards the top. Thin, technical and committing.

Broke a hand hold next to the 4th bold, might have made it a lot harder to clip this when leading

Found it a little heady, maybe not being able to see belayer. Might try starting at the higher anchor next time.

Two laps on TR sussing the moves and gear. Super fun and techy, definitely coming back!