Ascensões em Buzetski Kanjon por peta barrett tendo sport-cpr or ascent-date

Really did not expect that! Feeling as crap as I did, I really had to focus on my breathing to push the anxiety away. But it felt pretty good. Nearly stuffed up the ending but down climbed and sorted myself out. Throat was sore by the end so I must have yelled at some stage but otherwise, it went pretty easily. Finally!!!!

(2)

Didn’t see that coming.... but the light is changing, half in shade now. Can see the feet. Certainly made a difference. Still can’t work out how I’m going to clip though. So far can only unclip above the draw.....

And again! Ok, no more tr after today. Good to get a bit of mileage/endurance without the stress though.

First shot putting up the draws I thought this would be impossible. It was either a tommy Caldwell jump sideways move or a Kevin down climb haha. So I didn’t think I could get up it. Turns out I could. Just traversed a bit earlier. I actually really enjoyed this on tr. I think where my head space is now, I couldn’t have lead it. I’m so brain fried. And, being a bit over hanging... I’m going to pay for it tomorrow in my back... amazing climb though.

First shot - easy start until you get to the prickly tufa. It does look like a lot of holds have been smashed off. Second shot - clean to a tricky move to a side pull above the last bolt... so maybe the broken holds don’t mean much (or I’m off route?). Just missed the side pull but then clean to anchor. The climb is coated in a lichenous powder that makes you over grip or feel like you are coming off at any moment. Maybe outside of winter this isn’t a problem but I don’t understand how this is a classic.

Definitely glad the draws were on!

If I hadn’t woken up to find that today was potentially the last day for climbable weather at this crag in the next fortnight, I wouldn’t have climbed today... first shot to get the draws on.

As my first shot (and warm up) felt so bad, top rope lap to find the feet etc. still feeling pretty blah

Warm up to get the draws on. First shot is always terrible.

Freezing but still too bright in the sun. Probably the coldest day I’ve been on this. 3 degrees. Tr mainly to mark out the feet.

Working out the clips. Really only one that I needed to extend. Headgames with clipping off glassy foot scratches, but they stayed on.

Last shot. Actually got passed first crux but then blanked out on a foot move and just took rather than trying harder. Bolt to bolt for next two bolts then clean to top, including the sketchy foot hold clip. Feeling a bit fluey so didn’t have another go. Feeling confident though. Got my head around the nasty bits, now I just need good weather. The area keeps getting heavy rock saturating fog.

What do you do when your partner is sick and your starting to get unfit? Laps of course! Although getting the rope up in the bright sun was interesting. Could not see any of the footers in the blinding light. ... interesting...

Being only 2 degrees, my fingers we’re loving it. Still can’t see the feet... even with chalk....

Feeling the fatigue now but good to get the feet engrained into my brain....

X3. 2 points where I’m coming off. Good to get back here though, it’s been too cold!!!

X3. 1st shot seemed impossible. 2nd and 3rdshot, now that I know where the holds are, only 2 rests. Crimpy and sharp but possible.

Warm up dog on tr. so fricken pumpy! Again, it’s once you have found all the holds, much easier second time around.

Nails!!

X2. Struggling a bit with one hold but the rest is fine.

Pumpy! Probably not a warm up...

Warm up. I found this better as a warm up than the 6b...and you can see the holds!

I don’t understand the 3 stars... plus I broke off a jug... it’s all pretty broken.

Tough start then ok. X2

Even more pumpy!

In the rain

Good if the draws are on...

Super pumpy

Yep, I’m done. But such a good climb... but more like 6c/6c+. The disparity of grading in the lower grades is amazing. Freezing in the shade especially with the wind blowing off the snowy mountains. I’m ready to go home!

Maybe at one stage this was a 6b+ but more like a 7a+ now. Lots of holds have obviously broken off and there are some rather large ones that look like dirt is the only thing keeping it together.

Felt like a Kalymnos 6b. Goodbye holiday grades!! Good climb though.

Really good until it wasn’t. The ending was either broken or I missed it. Plus the rain is off putting.

Admittedly Scott didn’t sell this to me and it was so cold my fingertips felt like they were ice cubes (but we really wanted to check out this crag. I Don’t recommend it at 5degrees). The start was horrendous and the finish was just nasty... not so much the climb but the last bolt placement before the anchor. So mean!

Repeat warm up. So fricken cold!!!!

Raining