Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Local de escalada | Qualidade | Data | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5a |
★★ Fantaghirò
1
5a
10
Warm up | 10m, 13 | La Falesia Dimenticata | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | ||||
7a |
★★ Die Langweilige
1
6a
18m
Greasy
2
7a
18m
Had to rest when pulling roof. I think I was doing it the hard left hand way, but maybe I was just weak. The rest of the route was fine. | 36m | Höhlensteintal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
6b+ |
★★ Passaggio Chiave P1
1
6b+
20
Nice climbing. We came to the crag because its rain sheltered, but it was a Saturday and half of chiavenna seemed to join us, then the sun came out and the temps went up 10 degrees. It was time to leave. | 20m | Cranna | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | |||
7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
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7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | Ofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
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6c | ★★ Bagoi | 25m | Breguzzo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!
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6c | ★★ Lo scorpione | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below
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6b |
★★ Hexentanz P1
1
6b
8m
Too close to route to left making it escapable at crux (contrived direct, and hard for 6 b) but I did it both ways to cover the bases. | 8m | Höhlensteintal | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
7- | ★ Himmelspretten P1 | 9m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun
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6b+ | ★ Come back | 16m, 6 | Flatanger | Average | Tue 22nd Aug 2023 | |||
The climbing didn’t really flow, largely due to bolt position.
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6b+ | ★ Il nido de ragno | 25m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
Nice varied route, a little bit of dodgy rock up top
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6b+ |
★★ Chernobyl
1
5c
28
Did PM instead then continued up past final bolt of this to belay
2
6a+
30
Go straight up to roof past 2 bolts then hand traverse right under roof ( rock fax topo quite poor for route)
3
6a+
29
After exiting the short chimney at the second bolt I missed the next 2 bolts which were off to the right and got back to one above them, exciting! Thought this pitch was also 6 b
4
6b
30
More nice climbing on some old bolts
5
6b+
23
Fantastic steep finale. | 140m | Sass Dlacia | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Sep 2023 | |||
Started on PM as first pitch. Liked all the pitches. Would have done more routes here but sun had hit has by the time we abseiled. 60 m rope needed minimum.
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Nigge-Kante | 24m | Höhlensteintal | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
I think it’s even soft for 6b, compared to other routes here.
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6b+ | ★★ Cappuccino | 30m | Vho | ★ Good | Wed 20th Sep 2023 | |||
On of the drier routes today ( first pitch) , and unlike the 10m boulder climb, Fipanza we found this one pretty easy
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6b+ |
★★ Buttamigiu
2
5c+
35
Kind of did half of this in our confusion
3
6a+
30
Hard moves getting to belay well above bolt.
4
6b+
50
Used a nice kneebar low, and found the hardest move up stepping off a small pinnacle.
5
4a
45
A route takes off directly above where you top out that would make a good link up | 160m | Albigna | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | |||
Apart from route confusion which seems to afflict many people who start on Lascimili and end up on this, Pitches 3 and 4 were great. The bolting is weird, near good trad placements then run out. Route deserves more traffic. Best to walk off. The connecting cord at anchors is very tatty and needs replacing-Especially getting to top of pitch 3 where it appears some people aid on the long bit of rope hanging down. A single set of cams 0.3 to #2 helpful.
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6+ | ★ St. Peter | 14m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
Nice roof to start
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6+ | ★★ Hulken | 9m | Himmeldalen | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.
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6+ | ★★ Kongla | 12m | Ishoel | ★ Good | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||
Routes squeezed in a bit, but it was a good work out
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6+ | ★★ Nådeløs som Cola | 12m | Ishoel | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | ||||
6b | ★ Red Ajah | 20m, 9 | Brattberget | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | |||
Nice technical route
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6b | ★★ Sekspress | 20m, 10 | Tromsø | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | |||
Quite fun and great views
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6b | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | 22m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | |||
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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6b ~6a+ | ★★ Trykkokeren | 17m | Flatanger | ★ Good | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | |||
Compared to some of the other routes more 6a territory
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6b | ★★ Brigot | 26m | Brenta Alta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Sep 2023 | |||
The rock is a bit ordinary down low, but excellent movement, varied climb, technical in places and pumpy start. Generally overhanging.
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6b | ★★ Placca motoria | 20m | Sass Dlacia | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Sep 2023 | |||
Our start to Chernobyl. A good warm up due to some nice rest stances between the pocket pulling.
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Sandmännchen | 32m | Höhlensteintal | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
I thought I was on the 6c, and it didn’t feel that far off.
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6b | ★★ Disc jockey | 27m, 15 | Discoteca | ★ Good | Wed 27th Sep 2023 | |||
Tricky slab crux
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6 | ★ Akrofobi | 26m | Tromsø | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | |||
Interesting route on some large quartz holds
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6 | ★★ På sva er vi alle trist som faen | 20m, 9 | Tromsø | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | |||
Interesting slab and corner
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6 | ★ Holoholahoy | 15m | Ofoten | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…
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6a+ | ★★ Halvrobban | 20m, 7 | Brattberget | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | |||
Easy first part then a little cruxy
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6a+ | ★★ I siget | 38m, 14 | Flatanger | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Aug 2023 | |||
The start was a bit wet and awkward, improved after that, nice flake and route harder than the corner to left
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6a+ | ★ Prenzip | 18m | Breguzzo | ★ Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
Some nice pockets, but just too many ways to go
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6a+ ~6b | ★ Dritdreiciodi | 16m | Comano Terme | ★ Good | Thu 7th Sep 2023 | |||
Grade 20 I reckon, unless you Mc Dougall right badly. A bit polished
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6a+ |
★★ Via Gino Bellumat
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 200m | Palla del Guide | Fri 8th Sep 2023 | ||||
Pleasant and fairly low stress outing on a hot day getting used to altitude and embracing life whilst Preserving knees. Well conceived route, reasonably bolted. Linked 2 and 3 and 4 and 5.
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6a+ |
★★ Indian Summer
1
6a
40m
We started on first bolt of Legoland then joined Indian summer. Quite cold at the start.
2
6a
40m
3
6a
30m
I liked this pitch the best, straight up on amazing pockets
4
5c
30m
Didn’t feel any easier than the rest of the route.
5
6a+
20m
You traverse right off the belay for about 4m, topo implied otherwise
6
6a+
20m
Quite a steep crack, some good moves.
7
6a
20m
The corner crack | 200m | Parte Oscura della Luna | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||
Pretty nice route, especially for a hot day. Seems like Rockfax digital is out of date for access and descent. The descent to the left has a washed away gully after a downclimb to contend with, but I guess we got to go canyoning as well as climb.
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6a |
★★ Kinderspiel
1
5b
8m
2
6a
9m
Unfortunately the bolt matrix on this wall detracts from the climbing, I followed this middle pitch | 17m | Höhlensteintal | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
6a+ ~6b | ★★ Baum | 15m | Höhlensteintal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
Way harder than the 6 a+ to the right, which I have take liberty of down grading while upgrading this- took me about 10 minutes to commit to standing up off the ledge.
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6a+ | I bocce del paes | 17m | Sottosassa | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | ||||
Ok, but not sure what was “ in” so did bridge into crack on opposite wall
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6a+ | ★ Assessore | 25m | Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ★ Good | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | |||
Probably my favourite. A couple of tricky spots.
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6a | ★★ Nesheim-ruta | 15m | Tromsø | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | |||
Seems the main route now on head wall
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6a | ★ Mye botanikk | 15m, 7 | Vesterålen | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | |||
The grade conversion seems out here, 19.
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6a ~6a+ | ★★ Posible nick | 18m, 6 | Flatanger | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Aug 2023 | |||
Without a triple rack to weigh me down I should have floated up this but it had me puffing.
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6a | ★★ Gigliola | 18m | Comano Terme | Thu 7th Sep 2023 | ||||
Good warm up as advertised
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6a ~6a | ★ Gamaze | 15m | Höhlensteintal | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
Quite easier, and far easier than route to left.
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6a | ★ Diedro Gabrielli | 20m | Sottosassa | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
The bottom half was quite good, then a few mantles.
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6a | ★★★ Pergola | 10m | Cranna | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | |||
Nice route, anchors at full stretch though.
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6a | ★★ La Capanna del Blondi | 12m | Acquafraggia | ★ Good | Tue 26th Sep 2023 | |||
A v1 mantle start then spaced bolts, generally ok to get to except the one that protects the crux
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6- | ★ Jepperuta | 18m | Ofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
Some steep but good holds
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5c | ★ Limpa | 20m | Flatanger | Average | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | |||
Several flakes with x on them, able to climb around but needs proper cleaning
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5c | ★★ Pestacolo | 20m, 11 | La Falesia Dimenticata | ★ Good | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | |||
Nice enough, getting used to the rock. 3 pm too early for shade, improved at 4.
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5c | ★★ Il buttafuori | 26m | Discoteca | ★ Good | Wed 27th Sep 2023 | |||
Nice juggy route
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6- ~6 | ★★ Trollfeit | 12m | Ishoel | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||
Fun route out over the water, felt like 19, so may just be a conversion factor issue with thecrag
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6 |
★★ Moon bears
- with
dave
1
5-
lead by
dave
Slightly off route but got there in the end
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
6
A nice pitch that traverses leftwards via tufa features
7
4
8
6-
Reachy crux
9
5-
Finished our 2.5 L water by the top | 250m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Sep 2023 | |||
Very hot, we tried to create a breeze by climbing fast, about 3 hours. Linked 1+2, 3+4, 6+7. May the memory of the FA live on.
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5b | ★★ Il pigro | 20m | Croz de le Niere | ★ Good | Wed 30th Aug 2023 | |||
Pleasant, about grade 17
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5b | ★★ Nigge-Riss | 24m | Höhlensteintal | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
Ok, but always sad to see a bolted crack.
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5+ | Odin | 65m | Sør-Troms | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Frigg | 65m | Sør-Troms | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | |||
Probably my favourite of the five
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5+ | ★ Saga | 65m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | |||
5+ | ★ Viking | 65m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | |||
First pitch only
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5+ | ★ Tiril | 55m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Wed 26th Jul 2023 | |||
Ran both pitches together
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5+ | Valhall | 65m | Sør-Troms | Wed 26th Jul 2023 | ||||
5a | ★★ Nebula | 20m, 9 | Brattberget | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | |||
Good warm up
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5+ | ★★ Action Direct | 12m | Ishoel | ★ Good | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||
Quite a pumpy introduction
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5 | ★★ Sofaruta | 12m | Vesterålen | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | |||
Grade 17, very 3D and quite steep
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5- | ★ Thor | 65m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | |||
Lovely setting, amazing rock, great to get out of the car
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6c |
★★ Il buon caffè
1
4b
10m
Warm up he stemming muscles
2
6c
12m
Burly but ok once I had found some of the holds | 22m, 14 | La Falesia Dimenticata | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | ||||
6c+ | ★★ Number one | 20m, 11 | La Falesia Dimenticata | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | |||
Pocketssss, just lovely and the new shoes are feeling better
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | |||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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7- | ★★ Harald & Runes Variant | 12m | Ishoel | ★ Good | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||
Lovely setting by the river and nice rock, and it was dry despite the ground running with water.
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7- | ★ Jørgens Travers | 12m | Ishoel | ★ Good | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Magnolia | 27m, 13 | Brattberget | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | |||
Felt quite Traddy. Several grades easier than Till malin
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Svenneprøven | 37m, 14 | Flatanger | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Aug 2023 | |||
Doesn’t look like the direct start has been done for a few years, the first 2 bolts covered in vegetation. A little tricky at start, the rest is a straightforward corner
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6b+ | ★★ Mitildi | 20m | Breguzzo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
I thought this was as hard as the 6c, nice varied route. Having the anchor draw on definitely helped
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6b+ | ★★ Via Per Stefano Vidi | 20m, 12 | La Falesia Dimenticata | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | |||
More nice pockets
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6+ | ★★ Escalade feminine | 10m | Ofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
Is a 7- in guide but wasn’t too bad ( since I backed up piton with a preplaced long sling.
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6+ | Ironman | 12m | Himmeldalen | Average | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | |||
The good bit is quite short
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6b | ★ Alfa krull | 20m | Flatanger | ★ Good | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | |||
Nice varied route
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6b | ★★ L'unico vizio de me fiol | 15m | Val d'Algone | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | ||||
A bit dusty, hard final moves
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6b | Bonet | 27m | Brenta Alta | Average | Mon 4th Sep 2023 | |||
Bouldery start, not impressed by rock until up high. Great scenery though.
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6b | ★ Leviti crack | 17m | Sottosassa | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
Nice enough, had the jamming gloves on
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6b | Consigliere | 12m | Arrampicodromo Di Mese | Average | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | |||
Easy, then I think you are meant to use the arete, Ndseam but there’s an easier crack to the right so who knows?
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6 | ★ Flygende C | 12m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
Did it without the right chalked up flake and went direct over bolts. Climbed ok but the nearby crack and bolt placements made it feel contrived
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6 | ★ Langtrur | 25m, 21 | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | |||
One long pitch. A bit discontinuous
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6a+ | Obelix | 25m | Vesterålen | Average | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | |||
Grade 20. Stupid finish.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | |||
Much easier when we got on the right route.
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6a+ | ★ Derok | 15m | Sottosassa | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
A bit dirty, but very 3 d climbing, harder than 6a.
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6a | ★★ Panorama cafe | 43m, 15 | Tromsø | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | |||
Over 35m, pitch one is 30 m, pitch 2 about 15 m. The top bolt bracket is missing but easy to step right into adjacent line for finish anyway
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6a | ★ Sjarmøren | 12m, 8 | Tromsø | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | |||
Short but nice
|
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6a | ★★ Joris | 20m | Flatanger | ★ Good | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | |||
The topos in the climb Norway book are hopeless, just random lines thrown onto the rough section of wall.
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6a | ★ Poldo | 10m | Cranna | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | |||
Tricky finish if you are short, but good
|
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5c | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | |||
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
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5c | ★ Sindaco | 25m | Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ★ Good | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | |||
Back to granite slabbing. Ok, a little wet at the top only
|
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6- | ★ Batman | 13m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | |||
The rock looks bad but nothing came off. A steep jug haul
|
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5+ | ★ Postelari | 17m | Breguzzo | ★ Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | |||
More interesting than appearances suggest
|
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5 | ★★ Dieder | 16m, 7 | Vesterålen | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | |||
Doesn’t climb much like a dihedral, lovely wave pocketed rock, grade 18 at least
|
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5 | Oljeberget | 25m | Himmeldalen | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
Not sure why the rope ladder is there, the start was fine without it. Maybe adds a grade. Nice long route and intro to the rock.
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7a | ★★★ Toleranza zero — 2 attempts | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
Started up in new climbing shoes and had to swap at the hands free rest, but still managed to fall off after at mid crux. Worked out a better sequence for the mid crux for height. on sighted the start and end cruxes.
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7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 attempts | 9m | Ofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
|
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7- | Trim de eldre — 2 attempts | 15m | Himmeldalen | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | ||||
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.
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