Ascensões em Bandstein

The first pitch is a direct version of "Prinz Gedenkweg", also leaving out the funny squeeze through the big hole, which makes it quite underwhelming. Pitch 2 follows the line of the second pitch of "Schwab Gedenkweg", but then branches off into a traverse left to finish up to the highest point of this part of the wall. The crack is difficult and not every hold is trustworthy, the traverse also shows visible signs of former holds, and the last few meters were vegetated (but we took care of that). I suppose the original routes are more worthwile, especially now that they are reequipped.

What a line. A little hard move over the bulge, other than that it finds its way through the wall along the best possible set of pockets. To finish it off, I went back to the anchor of Herbstmanöver and topped out to the final Bühler bolt. #warmup

Looks good, but it’s shitty. Runout and bolts make no logical sense.

Good wall climbing with an overhanging finish. A nut after the first bolt (not counting the peg) is sensible. Originally, the cave after the first bolt was used to set up yet another belay.

Wonderful easy route, more a walk than a climb, but with a nasty little passage at the beginning, justifying the grade. You can just pull on the draw, though, then it's something like a grade 2 or 3 up to the finishing crack, which is again a little harder (but not exceeding grade 5, I'd say), but can be climbed nicely as a narrow chimney. Really worthwhile!

Nice movement on pockets and tricky plus tacky sequences throughout

Funny first pitch with a crawl through the little cave. A bit moist above the cave, though. Second pitch was perfectly dry and a real treat, surprisingly good dihedral climbing, slightly overhanging in the upper part above the second bolt (not sure which of the two bolts in the second pitch was there originally, but it used to be only one).

easy but very committing due to loose rocks and pretty dirty as not many people climb it i reckon, use a helmet for both belayer and climber if you intend to jump on.

Probably the longest pitch i will ever do in the franken, tricky first section followed by a good rest and a pumpy finish. Hard to clip if you are pump as finishing holds isn't that great

The anchor is placed a little bit oddly.

Dream line with an insidious finish. The start is almost always wet (including today, of course), so getting to the second bolt is already quite the challenge. And then you have to go into the traverse crux with slightly polished footholds not knowing whether your shoes are still wet. But I just ignored it and pushed on. The middle section is perfect pocket climbing, never easy, never too hard. And then, when you think you're almost there, it hits you so hard. The final overhang is steep, hard to read, and drains you quickly. I had forgotten everything from my attempt a few years ago, saw the huge pocket above the anchor and set off for a double dyno. I realised this was a bad idea when I barely could hold on to the sloping edge of that pocket. Luckily, I had both hands stacked on top of each other, so the lower one could "rest" for a few seconds, which gave me enough time to clip the anchor and even climb up to a better position and better holds.

Climbed what is nowadays counted as a "free ascent" of Halbmondweg, but instead of going to the anchor to the right of the arête, I went left to try the original finish. Turns out it has not been fully equipped with glue-ins; I didn't want to fall into one of the old rusty pegs (also, didn't have any draws left and the rope drag had already become substantial), so I aided the last meter. This is also the finish of "Schwab Gedenkweg", which comes from the left and has a Bühler in the right place, but coming from the right, that one would introduce even more rope drag (and is hard to reach). If that really was the original finish of Halbmondweg, then I guess it's more like 8- than 7+ and almost nobody climbs it the original way. :-D Maybe I should climb it in two pitches next time, that should do the trick concerning rope drag

Vorm Umlenker, ist großer Seitgriff rausgebrochen. Hat aber meiner Meinung nach nichts an dem Schwierigkeitsgrad geändert.

Vorm Umlenker, ist großer Seitgriff rausgebrochen. Hat aber meiner Meinung nach nichts an dem Schwierigkeitsgrad geändert.