Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | Local de escalada | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V2 | ★★★ Chickenhead
Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best! FA: Andew Andress | Lukenya | |||
V2 | ★ Oversized shorts
Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face FA: Lindsey Andress | Lukenya | |||
V3 | ★★ Mom Pants Traverse
Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse. | Lukenya | |||
V3 | ★ Rooster Tail
Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.) FA: Andew Andress | Lukenya | |||
V3 | ★★★ The Joker
Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang. FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
V3 | ★★ Jack
Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top. FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
V4 | ★★ Kuku Kienyeji
Stand start on the left side of the boulder, traverse across the middle of the face, and finish up the same moves as Rooster Tail. Pumpy! FA: Andew Andress | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ Lizard Sandwich
Start on the slab on the left. Go up and right. FA: Emmanuel F, 2015 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V5 | ★★★ Dump Truck
Start on the big horizontal rail then a huge move up to the higher horizontal slot above, and easy top-out. Not too hard once you actually get it, but low-percentage for many people. FA: Nathan Sick, 1 Mar 2017 | Lukenya | |||
V4 | ★★ Wood Stove
Up the middle of the boulder, traverse left on crimps, then same top out as Treehugger FA: Nathan Brand | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★★ The Blind One
Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura. FA: Nathan Brand | Lukenya | |||
V3 | ★★ Laura
Far right of the boulder. Sit start at the bottom of the obvious rail, and move up and right using a combo of powerful moves and heel hook trickery. Mantle up and over onto the slab, and walk up to finish. FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
V1 | ★★ Carolyn's baby
Sit-down start matched on low slot edge, goes straight up on great slopers edges and incuts. FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
V5 | ★★★ Heavy is the Head
To the right of Jack. Sit-down start matched on the thin edge, powerful moves up and to the right out of the roof then left up the short pace. Amazing, precise moves! FA: Tyler Algeo | Lukenya | |||
V2 | ★★ Ripple
Highball. Stand start and go straight up the face. A really nice technical boulder problem. Avoid using boulder on the right, though it could possibly be a V0 variation if used. FA: Nathan Brand | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ Dos
Start on small crimps in the mdidle of the face. Up and right to finish. FA: 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | ★★ Tres
Stand-start far right and traverse left and up to finish. FA: 2017 | Lukenya | |||
V3 | ★★★ Ballz Hot
Crouch start in the overhang matched in a good slot in the crack, climb out right and up the right side of the face. Once you pass the two big holes in the face (great jugs) you are commited. This is a pretty scary but all around amazing climb. Avoid using the right arete until at the top, although this can be a nice bailout lower down. Getting off the boulder can be tricky! FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ Maximus Decimus Meridius
Highball. Start on the same holds as Commander of the Armies of the North, but go straight up from there on crimps. Once almost at the top go right on OK holds for an easier top-out. FA: Joel M, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★ Lot Lizard
Start to the left of Dump Truck, on wide crimps. Staying left of Dump Truck, go up through a couple of powerful moves and an easier top-out. FA: Nathan Brand, 1 Mar 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★★ Shark Bite
Start matched low in The Shark's mouth at the end of the toothy rail. A fun traverse along the razor sharp teeth end in big moves to the shark's nose. FA: Peter Naituli, 29 Apr 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | Commander of the Armies of the North
Crouch-start on good holds low and left, work your way up and right to a high top-out, avoiding the loose block in the middle. FA: Joel M, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | Cap'n Crimp
Stand-start on the lowest-usable crimps. Hard first move to a decent hold, straight up from there. FA: Ian Thorpe, 15 May 2022 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V6 | ★★ Night Crawler
Sit-down start on the arete, left hand on good side pull and right hand on lowest crimp, starts up the arete and then takes a big swing to the face of the overhang with a very tricky mantle to the top. A true Lukenya test-piece. FA: Nathan Brand (stolen from Andrew Andress), 1 Feb 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★ Gills
Start matched on rail at end of Shark's mouth. Proceed straight up the gills. FA: Gabriel Jackson, 5 May 2021 | Lukenya | |||
V4 | ★★ Kenyan Cowgirl
Highball. Crouch start below and right of the horizontal crack on a pinch and an edge, moves left following the crack and then goes straight up. FA: Nathan Brand | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Big knife
Same start position as Tiny scissors, difficult traverse requiring finger strength and tension to finish up Little Knife, using the slightly hollow but good flake as an undercling. A couple of excruciatingly sharp holds but fun movements! FA: Joel M, 25 Feb 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | ★ Tiny scissors
Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start with the lowest good crimp you can reach and left hand in the slanting crack. Stand up and finish with an easy topout. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★ Little knife
To the right of the hollow flake, stand-start with hand on decent holds. Get your feet high and reach up to a good hold. Easy topout. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ Corkscrew
Stand-start on the arete on the right, with right hand on a big blocky hold and right foot heek hooking next to it. Big move up, get on your feet and easier topout. FA: Livio van Enckevort, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★★ Precious
A tall, classic stand-alone line up arguably the cleanest face on the plains area. Start crouched, matching on lowest usable crimp rail. There are multiple ways to solve the problem above and become worthy of the legendary Ring. FA: Peter Naituli, 29 Apr 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★ Feet Up
Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start on the lowest crimp and work your way up using a little flake and footwork. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★ Father to a Murdered Son
Start low on the right side of the boulder, up and over the bulge. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Beyond the Crimp
Stand-start on the good holds in the middle "corner" of the boulder. Find th only decent hold up and right from there, get your right foot high and mantle hard to the top. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
V1 | ★★ Treehugger
Starts in the juggy crack on the left, follows the crack up right to the dihedral and goes straight up. A really nice climb with an airy top out. The small tree in the middle of the line is off! FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2/3 | ★ Touching cotton
Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there. FA: Ian Thorpe, 31 Oct 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | Prairie-dogging
Same sit-start as for Touching cotton, the lowest holds on the right of big diagonal cracks. From here move up right on holds in cracks and mantle over the top. FA: Ian Thorpe, 31 Oct 2020 | Lukenya | |||
V4 | ★★★ For Every King a Crown
Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall. FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Fucking my fingers
Stand-start on small crimps, work your way left then up on small but positive holds. Cool movement, and not as bad for your fingers as the name suggests! FA: Eric Ducroix, 5 Mar 2018 | Lukenya | |||
V2 | ★★ Sugar rush | Lukenya | |||
{US} V0 | ★ Cheerio
Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up. FA: John Shunk, 6 Sep 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★ Arete
Sit-start on the arete to the left of the crack, with right hand on the arete and left low on the face. Compress up the arete to good holds at the top, maybe with a sneaky toe-hook? FA: Emmanuel Freudenthal, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | ★ Crack
As the name suggests, up the crack on the left of the big face. Stand-start and jam or layback up to the big horizontal crack below the block above. Traverse right along this to finish. FA: Emmanual Freudenthal, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | Screaming hyrax
Sit-start matched in the low crack on the left of the boulder, traverse all the way across following the gently rising crack, finishing on the far right where a small vertical crack splits the top. FA: Peter Naituli, 2 Jul 2022 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V6 | ★★ The Storm
The arete immediately left of 'The Calm Before the Storm.' Start matched on the decent square knob. From there its just a matter of braving the storm ahead. FA: Peter Naituli, 29 Apr 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★ Let them eat cake
Start on the same holds as For Every King a Crown, but then go left and up with big side-pulls and cool body positions. FA: Ian Thorpe, 8 Nov 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | ★ Special K
To the right of Cheerio, where there is an orange band of smooth rock on the lower half of the face. Stand-start on small feet and the lowest decent handholds. Straight up from there. FA: Ian Thorpe, 15 May 2022 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★★ Gogo Gadget Arms
Aka something related to mental and disease. Up the face to the left of the cave perched boulder, on the side facing Mombasa Road. Sit-start on the lowest reachable holds then work up and slightly right before a heady top-out. FA: Thibaut Boucherand, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | Feetos
To the right of Special K. Stand-start on the lowest good holds. Find your feet and go straight up. FA: Ian Thorpe, 15 May 2022 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Kilpikonna
Sit-start from a squarish hold under the arete. Powerful first move up to a crack, then easier but fun moves up the arete to finish. FA: Joel M, 31 Oct 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ Witness the Weakness
Crouch start with both hands in the big crack, on the left. Go straight up from there, avoiding Weakness Protection Programme which is further right. FA: Eric Ducroix, 2 Apr 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★★ Gobi Head
Start on the obvious jug rail at the center bottom of the boulder and go straight up, and most importantly... have fun! FA: Gabriel Jackson, 29 Apr 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★ Jambo
The blocky finish to rock slide, straight up from a stand-start. Cheeky handjam at the top for those into that kind of thing. FA: Luca van Enckevort, 20 Sep 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★ Ninja
Sit-start below and left of the big rail. Make you way straight up on good crimps, delicately on the flake. FA: Eric Ducroix, 10 Sep 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★ Lonely Out in Space
Goes up slightly to the left of the middle of the boulder on decent if small holds. Use your feet and stay calm, the topout is good. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★ High as a Kite
Goes up just left of the arete on the right of the boulder (a hard line is awaiting an FA just right of this arete). Slightly harder moves to start, with a delicate but solid topout at long as you keep calm. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V6 | ★★★ Crashpad Slide
Long and sustained! Start way to the right under the overhang, just left of the entrance to the cave, matched on the slanting hold from a sit-start. Work your way left on decent holds and bad feet to a hard match (crux), then round then corner and up the blocky finish. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 20 Sep 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V6 | ★★ All Things Royal
To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top. Deceptively difficult and low percentage. FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★★ Noon Heat
On the right of the boulder. Stand-start on decent crimps, move hands and feet up through a slightly sequency section to reach better holds above for the heady topout. FA: Luca van Enckevort, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★ Mantle Ray
Stand start with hands on the mantleshelf slightly right of Mantleorian. Mantle up rightwards by any means necessary. First ascentionist used his shin, not recommended. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ The Legitimacy of Knees
On the back side of the boulder. Starts on big jugs, moves left on good hold and heel-hooks until a big move up and over the bulge. FA proved that knees can legitimately be used in climbing, despite jealous naysayers. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | That's How You Climb
Stand-start on the best two holds at the far left of the boulder. One big foot move, one big hand move, and you're in a second crack above and topping out. FA: Henrik, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
V1 | ★★ Dancin' Shoes
Sit-down start with left hand low on arete and right hand on a very low undercling, moves a few moves up the arete and then traverses right across and up a the slab. Avoid going all the way up arete or around on the left side. FA: Lindsey Andress | Lukenya | |||
V1 | ★★ Rookie of the Year
Sit-down start (almost lying) on low jug and goes straight up the right side of the boulder. FA: John Shunk | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Social Distancing
Beautiful line going up the arete, avoiding Razorback holds until the jug for the topout. Sit start low to the left of the arete, come round to the right of it to a good crimp, then a big move up the slanting crack. Keep it together and go for the finishing jug before the same topout as Razorback. FA: John Shunk, 19 Mar 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Razorback
Sit start on low rail. Make big move up to the crimp and commit to the top out. FA: Nathan Brand FA: Nathan Brand | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★ Angelina
Nice warmup for the other two, with an interesting topout. Sit-start on the obvious hold on the right of the boulder, going to another good hold with quite a big move, then up again. Keep your nerve for the topout, the holds are there. Spotter should jump on top of the boulderer if they fall to avoid tumbling down the rock behind! FA: Andrew Andress, 1 May 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | ★ Donovan McSlabb
Straight up the slab on pebbles to the top. Avoid arete on right and large feature on left (slab only pure and simple) FA: Andrew Andress | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★ Bolt-Free Froggies
Go up the arete opposite Witness the Weakness. Start on jugs on the left for easier, lower on crimps on the right for harder. FA: Emmanuel F, 1 Apr 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | ★ Tickle my fancy
Up the slab on the left side of the boulder, starting low and right then making your way up and to left, topping out near the tree branches. Slabby and technical climbing. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2018 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | ★ Ticked off
Sit-start on the low jug on the left-hand side of the boulder (right of the slabby face). Go straight up the arete. FA: joelm2411 & Joel Moktar, 2018 | Lukenya | |||
V0 | Bum dab
Same start as for Screaming hyrax, but go up the earlier diagonal crack. FA: Ian Lekiluai, 2 Jul 2022 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V0 | Close everything
Start on the higher crack on the left of the boulder, and follow it up to to its end and top out. FA: Ian Thorpe, 2 Jul 2022 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V0 | Kenyan cowsmallboy
Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl. FA: Nathan Brand | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ B-Shug
Sit-start with right hand high on a good one-pad crimp and left high on a marginal half-pad crimp round the left of the arete. Go straight up arete to top. FA: Nathan Brand, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
V1 | ★★ Leg day gains
An enticing little slab problem up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start in the gap between the two boulders with hands just above waist height. Go either up and slightly left (easier) or up and slightly right (harder). Great for learning how to slab climb. Can be padded by filling in the gap with pads after the climber is above the height of the neighbouring boulder. FA: Peter Naituli, 13 Aug 2020 | Lukenya | |||
V0 | ★ Just grab and smear
Stand-start just right of the left arete. Go straight up. FA: Nyamzi Giati, 13 Aug 2020 | Lukenya | |||
V1 | ★★ Hamstring flex
Stand-start on the same holds as for "Just grab and smear" and proceed to traverse right into "Leg day gains" and finish up via the latter sequence. FA: Peter Naituli, 13 Aug 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | Lost and Found
Up the right-hand arete of the boulder. FA: Andrew Andress, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
V5 | ★★ Act of blasphemy | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | ★ Face
Stand-start in the middle of the face. Straight up via good horizontal and diagonal cracks. FA: Emmanuel Freudenthal, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ I'm warm, can I come down now?
Highball. Start as for Warm-high-uup, but branch out right onto slightly harder ground after the first few moves, via a crimp and slanting hold in the black section of rock. FA: Eric Ducroix, 2017 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Parachichi
The lowball boulder just to the right of the Tiger Shark. Sit start with a good right heel to get established, the rest is just a matter of getting up FA: Peter Naituli, 1 Jul 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ Black Broccoli
A semi-powerful problem up the orange section on the right hand side of the boulder. Start matched on lowest, small crack rail FA: Peter Naituli, 29 Apr 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ Line of Weakness
Crouch-start on the right of the boulder, where a small, shallow, horizontal crack on the middle of the boulder peters out. Start with both hands on decent crimps at this point (can be crossed), with bad feet, and work your way left along decent if small crimps. Go up and finish when you reach the first vertical crack (top of Weakness Protection Programme). FA: Ian Thorpe, 19 Feb 2023 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V5 | ★★ Oyster?
Start on the left of the same juggy rail as 'Gobi Head' and go straight up by way of sharp crimps. The only feature this route shares with Gobi Head is the rail at the bottom. Stay away from the holds far right as this is a different problem. FA: Peter Naituli, 29 Apr 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | Rainbow road
The best of the easier lines. Stand-start with hands in the diagional crack and follow it rightwards. The sit-start is V2, from the low blocky hold. FA: Ian Thorpe, 24 Oct 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★ Dr. Danger
This problem ascends the arete on left hand side of the boulder. Start stood on the ramp below the arete with hands matched on the slanting rail. Once established, the ascent along the arete is straight forward with good feet and decent hand holds. FA: Peter Naituli, 31 Jul 2022 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★★ Warm-high-up
Highball up the face on the lower boulder below Go-Go Gadget Arms, etc., on the side facing Mombasa Road, in between two fig trees. Stand-start on the holds you can reach. Work through some deceptively tricky moves to reach better holds above and top out on jugs, making sure each one is solid before pulling. FA: Emmanuel F, 2015 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★★ May V4 be with you
Beauty of a problem up this proud boulder. Start low and left of the overhanging prow. Go right to some decent slopers, back left to a good crimp and keep your calm for the top-out. FA: Joel M, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | ★ Digging for Gold
On the perched bnoulder itself. Get in the cave and dig. Stand-start matched on the good blocky hold on the outside of the cave, facing Mombasa Road. From there chimney up to holds which enable you to come out of the cave and onto jugs on the face. FA: Vadim Kuklov, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ The Lukenya Highballing Society
Stand-start on two small crimps a few metres to the right of Warm high up. Work your way up on small but decent crimps and feet to join the middle holds on I'm warm, can I come down now, and finish as for that climb. FA: Peter Naituli, 4 Jun 2023 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1 | The Whale
Up the easiest ground on the left of the perched boulder, left of Gogo. Crouch-start on obvious good holds and up and left. FA: Thibault Boucheron, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
V3 | ★★ Apocalypse Now
Sit start with both hands matched on a low rail then pull your way rightwards and then up on a series of small crimps and sidepulls. Old school! FA: Joel M, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V4 | ★ Dan's 8-year-old Projet
On the mountain-facing side of the perched boulder. Sit-start, matched on a big jug on the left of the cave. From there traverse low along the boulder until you reach the cave, and go up before getting into it. FA: Emmanuel F, 2016 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V0 | ★ Fearless Bones
To the far left of the cave, the short wall curves into a dilute arete. The route goes up this. do not fall. FA: Peter Naituli, 29 Apr 2021 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ Radi
Line up the arete. Start matched on the lowest good holds, move up to the next set of good holds and jump for the top! FA: Peter Naituli, 2 Jul 2022 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V1/2 | ★★ Donatello | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | Spring
Up the middle of the boulder to a good undercling. Get your feet up from here and reach for a slightly heady topout. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 2020 | Lukenya | |||
{US} V2 | Spring Break
To the right of Spring, not using the hollow, creaking flake to your right. Up and over the boulder at its highest point on delicate hands and feet. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 2020 | Lukenya |