Vias em Sheridan Hills

west face, no bolt runners, is the original access route to the top, the double bolt anchor is 10mm diameter bolts.

Naked bolts.

Awesome. Up thru the vertical face and across to big rest next to cave. Power on up steep overhang on good holds.

Naked bolts.

Left trending line, with hard, balancy crux move on steep ground

Long meandering climb, start up a short corner to an arete, cross to the left of the arete (careful where you cross and what you clip, watch the rope drag), up through a bulge, over to the right of the arete and a technical crux you won't find on many 16s, then top out on a narrow spine.

Great climb. Straight up shallow groove and arete, mantle across to ledge, then delicate moves back right and up to a ledge, continue up to the same DBC belay as Galapagos.

Naked bolts.

Great climb on imposing overhanging wall. Quite deep mostly single hand sized pockets. Anchor, New glue in (C6 glue, Galv. bolts 220mmx12mm) Double chain and 10mm maillon rapide 17/9/23.

Naked bolt.

Straight up steep arete until halfway then onto slab to the top.

Naked bolts.

Naked bolts.

Climb the arete to the left of the yellow lichen. Previously equipped with a couple of bolts and hangers then suddenly reverting to naked bolts for the rest of the route (WTF??), now rebolted with lots of hangers all the way by Bryce.

Naked bolts.

Second bolt line from the arete, very featured wall at the base. Follow the bolts on good holds to a bit thinner section near the top then mantle to anchors. Climb the left hand arete at the top to keep to grade 17, or if you feeling it climb the face direct. I believe the 1st ascent went left at the top, using only 2 bolts and trad for the whole climb! DBC.

Left of Quacky Duck, up past the narrow arete then through an interesting balancy crux sequence.

Up thru groove over bulge and crack to get to anchors awkwardly on facing wall.

Wide groove facing left along the wall. Follow bolts up to the lip and the anchor. DBC.

Far right of Flying Cow Buttress

Starts in a wide groove on the west side of the Flying Cow Buttress. Follow the bolt line up the groove, trending slightly left above the bulge. DBC belay.

One of the best here. Graded 19 in the guidebook, but could easily be mistaken for a 21. Up thin face to long overhang on good holds. Pumpy with no moves harder than 19 but it just keeps coming at you.

Right of Hannah Louise, climb to the left of the cave to the roof, then negotiate your way out right (crux) and up to the anchor. Graded 22 in the current Rock Deluxe, but maybe take that with a grain of salt given some of the other inaccuracies in that publication.

Big moves on juggy pockets lead to nice edges and slopers with a heartbreaker finish.

Easy climbing up thru the caves to steep overhang at top.

This is the longest climb on Meteora Buttress. It climbs the South east arete, the only one that can seen from the road side car park.

Easy 15 and great for first lead with bolts from ground up.

Bolts with hangers.

Nice climbing on the arete past a scoop and series of bulges. Uses the old bolts with chain hangers. Two new grade 16's are to the right of it.

Bolts with hangers.

Immediately left of Pigs In Space, with a very short technical crux halfway. Originally featuring naked bolts all the way, the route has now been rebolted with hangers by Bryce.

1 naked bolts, 1 with hanger.

Can be lead as one 30 m pitch, but Use extenders! 3 bolt and chain belay at half way, and top.

Naked bolts.

Use extenders to avoid rope drag. Double bolt and chain anchor.

Naked bolts.

Naked bolts.

Left of Fire and Ice. Start up a grove and through an over lap to where the harder climbing starts. Balancey moves up a rounded arête. Take care not to z clip! Enjoy! Double bolt, chain and Maillon Rapide Anchor

Bolts with hangers.

Arahina, meaning 'to have been led' in Māori. This climb was put up for a group of Girl Guides to climb, and was named by them.

3 naked bolts, 1 with hanger.

Climbs the north face (right hand end) of Meteora Buttress. To the left of "Terrapin" There are 2 bolts to protect the belayer at the bottom, the older ONE with the hanger IS LOOSE! the newer one with the 10mm chain link is a bit better, BUT the rock is not much better than PUMICE so don't have a party hanging on them!! As you climb up the rock improves a little. In some parts when you bang the rock it sounds hollow. Probably not a good route too hang dog! The Double bolt Chain anchor. I added a bolt (230 mm X12mm) and chain March 2021. "Terrapin" can use this anchor, although it IS NOT in direct line with Terrapin.

Direct route up the west-facing narrow end of the buttress. Flat face with large pockets, underclings and edges make for varied moves. Great surrounding and rewarding top-out. Two Bolts and chains near the base for belayer to anchor in.

NOTE: The Double-bolt chain anchor at the top of "unknown climb" can be used to get down. At the far end (East end) there are two DBC anchors that could also be used. Plan how to get down and retrieve gear before starting up.

Climb the south west arete. Double bolt(12mmx220mm) and 8mm chain

Some one had to get to the top first. Dave soloed then bolted later.

Climb the blunt arete between Quacky duck and pigs in space. The first bolt has 2 chain links. Don't be temped to stray onto Quacky duck at the top. Double bolt, and chain and Maillon rapid anchor.

Right of Burning rain and Easy weesy is a steep grass gully. At the top of the grass gully you will find this climb. Follow 7 bolts on a well pocketed face to the top of the main cliff, pull on grass to gain the anchor bolts and chain, on the small wall above.

Sun all day on this one, as it faces north. Use a threat to secure the belayer from the drop off.

Climbs the north east arete. Use the same anchor as Monsoon Madness.

Naked bolts.

Naked bolts.

Head up the lower slab before facing the bulge and the roof with sharp pockets. Once through the roof, good pockets and using your legs will bring you to the anchor.