Vias em Pukerua Bay

Climb through the blockly ground and up the obvious weakness to a double ring bolt anchor.

Up the left side of the slab past four bolts. Beware of some loose rock. Single ring hanger anchor, best used as a runner to reach the anchor at 'Shiver Me Timbers'.

Can you have it? Apparently so. Scramble up to below the overhang, then onto the face and move left through the overhang and up onto the face. Good jugs moving through the overhang but watch your rope doesn't the catch on the overhang. The 5th bolt is out of view from the ground. Shares last bolt and anchor with "My Ideal..."

Good edges straight up to the small ledge. Step up to crucial undercling then move on to the blunt arête and right to a double ring bolt anchor.

The right-hand and best route on the slab. Double ring bolt anchor.

Double ring bolt anchor.

Steep start to the huge jug. Tend left up the slab to the ledge then tend right until below the anchor. Reachy moves from here, don't get sucked out left moving to the anchor.

Ends in double ring hanger anchor.

A steep start made easier with attention to footwork! Climb on up on to the slab using side pulls and then tend left to the double ring bolt anchor. The gulley to the right has some loose blocks.

Move through the blocky ground to the third bolt then onto the small arête. Move right to finish up the face at a double ring bolt and chain anchor.

As for Nobbys Cave but finish out horizontal roof. Right ledge is in.

A classic boulder problem that is now a classic route. Monkey up the vague pillar on good sidepulls and underclings to the large V-groove. Drop off here or commit to the mossy topout. Two ring bolts and belay bolts or two bouldering mats – it’s your choice.

At work baby. Straight up and right of the scoop. Double ring hanger anchor.

A classic boulder problem that is now a classic route. Monkey up the vague pillar on good sidepulls and underclings to the large V-groove. Drop off here or commit to the mossy topout. Two ring bolts and belay bolts or two bouldering mats – it’s your choice.

Big blocks to a ledge and somewhat awkward move above the foliage. Double ring and chain anchor.

Climb the hanging pillar to get a quality first ascent.

The right most route on the crag (not pictured), from under the overhang up and right through the shallow groove. Steep onto the blunt arête and climb up to the ledge. Continue up to a double ring hanger anchor below the big block.

From the back of the cave climb the vague arête. Avoid anything right of the diagonal crack, finish up Nobby's Cave.

A 'Defrag' variant. From underclings climb horizontal roof then back to small edges. Right ledge is out.

Powerful moves off the deck lead to easier climbing on the slab. Shares anchor with 'Nineteen Hundred'.

Start on the shelf on the right side of the cave and climb left to the upper lip. Two ropes will reduce drag, and a preplaced extended quickdraw at the fourth bolt may be useful.

The hardest problem on the archway. Standing start in the ‘fireplace’ on two positive pockets. Reach with the right hand out to the obvious chicken-head crimper, move up and left into a hanging undercut then explode rightwards to the finishing hold—a large spike! Lots of intermediate holds but they’re all crap. Feet anywhere you can get them (a crafty toe hook makes the second move easier).

Start as for Firestarter but move immediately right under the bulge on bad holds to join Green Peppers at the huge jug. Finish up this. An eliminate finish is possible staying left of the obvious seam and finishing on the spike (V9).

A sweet problem spoilt slightly by some poor rock. Start crouching at the back wall just right of Firestarter on a good sidepull. Reach back right for a slopey pinch, snatch left hand into the obvious undercut then bounce right hand up to another bad pinch. Jam the left foot in the hole by the starting holds and crank up to a huge jug. Follow holds in the seam and the pockets out right to finish on the last solid jug.

Up the front north-west face of Wairaka Rock. Start in the shallow cave on excellent rock and finishes on the summit of the rock. Seven ringbolts plus single bolt belay.

An extended start to Green Peppers. Start sitting on the small arête on the other (north-west) side of the arch. Traverse through the hole on a line of good pinches and slopers. Drop down into the undercut on Green Peppers and finish up this.

Climb the crack system on natural gear to join Dolphinius at its third bolt. A more consistent pitch for the grade than its neighbour.

Sit start on the blunt arête at the corner of the arch. Follow a line of strange slopey holds straight up to the slanting two-handed finger jug on Ah Chillies (but be careful not to wander too far up or right onto this problem). From the jug make a long crank left to the big rounded dish, get your feet high, match hands and then cross up to the finishing hold of Green Peppers – or go further left to the spike.

Retro-climbed, retro-named, retro-graded. Probably an old problem of Dave Orsman’s called Sophie’s Choice, now climbed on a new set of holds. Sit start on the large jug, reach with the left hand to a good spikey crimp, move right to the square pinch, lock your shoulder and grab the obvious sloper with your left hand. Now dyno to the flexing block — intermediate holds make this move easier.

A variant right-hand start to Jalapeno. Crouch low with right hand on a gaston pocket and left hand on a good undercut. Make a very long move to the sloper on Jalapeno and then finish up this.

Climb the steep left groove, finishing on the slab. Double ring hanger anchor.

Follow the crack up the slab and through the bush to a ledge mantle and then continue up the wide crack to either a natural anchor and walk off or rap from the "Too Much.." anchors.

A varied route, for those that want a bit of everything. Ride the groove, rocking over to the face and then up to mantle the ledge. Continue up to top out at a double ring bolt anchor. Shares last bolt and anchor with "Too Much...".

A short slabby route with 3 bolts. Double ring bolt anchor.

The bolted line left of Defrag. Boulder to the large undercling feature. after a shake, get horizontal out left, pull the lip and truck back right to the common anchor.