Vias em Spain

Video by Nacho Sánchez

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
• Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

The route is 45-degrees overhanging with a boulder problem to pull over into the final slab. 25 moves of 8c+ to reach a poor rest. Then 10 moves to reach the crux: a jump from a mono to a big pinch. Afterwards endurance 8b+ with few rests. Yellow rock at the bottom that goes to white and at the top it is grey.

Shares anchor with First Round First Minute.

Climbs the first few meters of "I Have a Dream" and then climbs left into "A 2 Bandas". Youtube FA

Airian begins in the Arroita block and ends at the top of "Hay que Masticar Antes de Tragar".

The hardest known boulder problem in Zaralejo, Spain. The V15 Rating is only for the boulder when using the low start.

#traverse

Initially graded as 9A but downgraded by Jorge Díaz-Rullo to 8C.

Beto Rocasolano youtube

Kemena “es un bloque explosivo de fuerza de dedos, pasos físicos y tensión corporal; empieza con seis pasos 'fáciles' para cambiar el ritmo con cuatro pasos duros y terminar con un mantle 'fácil'”, describe Rubén Díaz.

Kemena significa "valor" o "valentía", en euskera

Rubén Díaz Torres vimeo.com

#sitstart

The "inverse" line of "Parálisis Espástica".

A roof full of small crimps.

#sitstart #topout #crimps #slopers

James Pearson FA(?) IG: OnceUponAClimb, YouTube

Rubén Díaz YouTube #standstart #topout #crimps #slopers

A sit start at the bottom of the cave continuing with the end of Ali Baba, exiting through the classic exit on the left.

"El bloque en sí podemos desglosarlo como 3 movimientos de 8A o 8A+, seguidos de 3 movimientos de 8B, para luego hacer un 7C+ algo psicológico." (Alberto Rocasolano)

#sitstart

Alberto Rocasolano on vimeo.com

Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma.

First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

• Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
• Adam Ondra
• Jakob Schubert
• Sachi Amma
• Piotr Schab

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
• Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

A left finish to "Café Colombia".

To the second anchor of "The Journey".

Repeats by Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi.

Repeats by Stefano Ghisolfi (13/01/2018) and Daniel Woods (25/02/2018).

Direct start of Estado Critico.

A "hard and beautiful" king line test piece put up by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+, J. Schubert has suggested it could be a hard 9a+. Felipe seemed to confirm the 9b grade.

Ascents:

• Chris Sharma - 7 March 2015
• Jakob Schubert - 2 December 2018
• Felipe Camargo - 18 April 2019

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

Climbs the cave from left to right.

A combination of the boulder Picacho (8B+) with "Alí Hulk (extension)".

Described by Jonathan Siegrist as "Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell."

The route links a section of 8c into a steep and crimpy upper half to create a 45-meter endurance test-piece.

It was the first 9b to be freed by a female climber: Angy Eiter.

An alternative start to to La Fabela but with the same first anchor (where there is also a good rest). The second part is the same as "La Fabela pa la Enmienda", linked it is called Catxasa R2.

A combination of "The Journey" and "Café Colombia".

As Iker Pou describes it: "a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it even descends, about 20 meters long across a series of pockets. A authentic ‘fiesta’ of monodoits and two-finger pockets across a roof that is scary just to look at." The climbing is obviously ferocious and extremely physical: "Very few footholds, and those that exist are very bad so you have to constantly dyno them from one pocket to the next."

A combination of 'Seta ibérica' and 'Circo ibérico'.

Comparte gran parte del recorrido con su vecino "Gran Guggenheim".

Shares a large part of the route with its neighbor "Gran Guggenheim".

Las Meninas to the second anchor.

A 60 meters long endurance challenge that connects three routes. 'Pata Negra' at the beginning, the crux of 'No pain no gain' and ends at the lower off of 'Botanics'.

Downgrade to 9a+ proposed by Sébastien Bouin and to 9a+/9b by Martin Tekles in 2023.

Rubén Díaz Torres vimeo.com

#sitstart

Same finish as Entropía.

Hardest boulder of Tenerife! Video first ascent. Video first ascent 0:50.

#sitstart

#standstart - initially graded 8C+ but downgraded by Rubén Díaz and Jonatan Flor.

#sitstart

#sitstart #topout #crimps

#sitstart #topout

#sitstart

El bloque más duro de Galicia? Repeticiones?

#SD Video.

A combination of "Celedón Txiki" and "Harroputza".

'La Travesía de Arroita Total' without the initial artificial hold.

Jonatan Flor YouTube: GutikaFilms

Alternative start to La Fabela finishing at the anchor of La Fabela.

Seleccio Anal is a link-up between "Seleccio Natural" and "Analogica".

A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

• Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
• Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
• Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• Sachi Amma
• Cédric Lachat
• Jakob Schubert
• Domen Škofic
• Magnus Midtbø
• Mateusz Haladaj
• Jonathan Siegrist
• Daniel Woods
• Matty Hong
• Piotr Schab
• Said Belhaj
• Klemen Bečan
• Patxi Usobiaga
• Jon Cardwell
• Felipe Camargo
• Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.