Mt Kenya Rock climbing 86 routes in crag

To the Park - Mt. Kenya lies some 200 km north of Nairobi. Good roads lead to the nearby towns of Naro Moru (west side), Chogoria (east side) and Nanyuki (north side). From these locations, roads and tracks (approx. 20-30 km in length) lead up to the three main roadheads and the park gates. Some of these are often in very poor condition, necessitating a 4-wheel drive vehicle, or walking. The roads to Met Station from the Naro Moru Gate and to Old Moses from the Sirimon Gate are passable without a 4wd vehicle.

Car hire in Nairobi is readily available or one can take public buses (matatus) from Nairobi for around Ksh 700 - although those are not the safest form of transport they can get you to the turnoff from the main road. Then, to get to the roadheads one has to walk or get one of the motorbike taxis that are usually found near the Sirimon turnoff from the main road, or at Naro Moru.

Entry to and exit from the Mt. Kenya National Park can only be made during daylight hours before 6pm. The forest zone can be dangerous due to buffalo and elephant, especially at night. Although the higher huts on the mountain (above 4,000m) can be reached in one day from the road, its strongly recommended that two days be taken unless you are already acclimatised.

On the mountain - The Naro Moru, Chogoria and Sirimon Routes are by far the most popular routes up the mountain. Other routes (Timau, Burguret, Kamweti and Meru) have existed in the past, but have now fallen into differing states of disrepair and considerable navigation skill and physical strength and stamina are now required to attempt them, as well as a permit from the Park Headquarters. There are some tour operators offering guiding on these routes.

Timings given should be adequate for moderately fit parties not too heavily laden, with allowance only for brief halts. A good reserve should always be allowed for, and a start should be made early in the morning. For the descent allow at least half the time taken on the ascent.

NARO MORU ROUTE This route to the Teleki Valley is the shortest way to the peaks and is one of the most popular tracks. Owing to the fact that it is the shortest way up the mountain, there is a tendency for visitors to ascend too quickly and become the victims of mountain sickness and other illnesses related to altitude. It is therefore strongly advised that visitors unaccustomed to high altitude should consider hiking the first day from the Park Gate to the Met Station, rather than driving this stage of the ascent.

From Naro Moru town a well signposted mostly paved road leads 17 km to the Park entrance (2,400 m). If driving from Nairobi one can also follow the signposts for Naro Moru gate around 10 km before Naro Moru town, following a good paved road which then joins up with the road from Naro Moru town itself. After the Park entrance a paved road leads to the Met Station trailhead at 3,050 m where cars can be parked. A concrete walking track then climbs more steeply passing the MET station and then narrows to a footpath leading to the edge of the forest.

A steep, marshy section known as the “vertical bog” follows. The route keeps to the south side of the ridge, through open moorland until (about 3½ to 4 hours from the Met Station) the path reaches the crest of the ridge overlooking the Teleki Valley (4,000 m). The path contours along the south side of the Teleki Valley, keeping first high, and then gradually descends to reach the valley floor. It then follows the valley to reach Mackinder's Camp (4,200 m) with spectacular views of the south side of the mountain. From the Met Station to this point is about five to six hours.

The Austrian Hut (4,790 m) can be reached in a further three or four hours, but it is advisable not to attempt this from the Met Station in one day. The path to Austrian Hut (and onwards to Pt Lenana) leads from Mackinder’s Camp and initially contours up the left-hand side of Teleki Valley. A long pull then leads up the lateral moraine of the Lewis Glacier, veering left to the rocky bluff where the Austrian Hut is situated. Austrian Hut was the common starting point for those attempting the South-East Face of Nelion but it is also possible to access the route from Mackinder’s camp in about 3 hours

The KWS Rescue Ranger Station is located near the head of the Teleki Valley and close to the Mountain Club of Kenya hut.

SIRIMON ROUTE This track provides the easiest access to the northern side of the central peaks and the North Face Standard Route on Batian. It is a beautiful route with fine views of Sendeo and Terere, and of the main peaks. About 15 km from Nanyuki on the Timau road, just before the road winds down to cross the Sirimon River, a signposted track to the right leads 10 km to the Park Gate.

A paved road from the gate leads to Old Moses Hut and Judmaier Camp at the roadhead at 3,350 m. The track climbs 300m up the hill behind the hut to a communications station. Just beyond this point the track splits with the left hand route proceeding to the Mackinder Valley direct, and the right hand route going via the Liki North Hut.

The direct route contours the moorland across a series of ridges, dropping down to cross the Liki North River (where there is a bridge and picnic site) and then climbing the ridge to enter the Mackinder Valley. The path continues up the valley to the cliffs beneath Shipton’s Cave. From here the path climbs steeply up to the right and continues to Shipton’s Camp hut (4,250 m). From Old Moses to this point is about 6-7 hours.

The route via Liki North hut is tougher (8-9 hours to Shipton’s Camp). From the split head uphill towards a rounded hill called the Barrow. The path swings south climbing to the ridge of the Liki North Valley and then drops to the Liki North Hut (3,990m). The hut no longer exists but there is a campsite and this is a popular starting point for climbs on Sendeo and Terere. From the Likii North Hut the path climbs the ridge and then descends into the Mackinder Valley to join the direct route.

From Shipton’s Camp two main paths continue. To the right of the main peaks the path climbs to the Hausberg Col via Kami Tarn (which lies close to the start of the North Face Standard route. To the left the path ascends to Harris Tarn from which Pt Lenana can be reached.

CHOGORIA ROUTE The Chogoria route is considered the most picturesque on the mountain. It has no huts and requires climbers and hikers to be self-sufficient for camping.

The route begins from Chogoria town to the east of the mountain, about 96 km from Embu and 64 km from Meru. From here a 4 wheel drive vehicle is necessary to drive the 29 km track to the Park Gate at 3,000 m. There is accommodation available here at the Meru Mt Kenya Bandas. From the gate, the track continues to the Chogoria roadhead. From here the path tracks the north side of the Gorges Valley to reach Hall Tarns (4,230m) sitting on a plateau above Lake Michaelson. To reach Hall Tarns takes between 6 and 9 hours from the Chogoria Gate.

The path from Hall Tarns eventually splits. The right-hand path continues to Simba Col (4,620m) from where you can descend to Shipton’s Camp and the Mackinder Valley or continue up the ridge to Harris Tarn and then to Pt Lenana. The left-hand path takes you steeply up to Tooth Col and round Pt Lenana to the south to reach Austrian Hut.