Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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South Africa Free State Swinburne Barnyard Boulders Bovine Boulder | |||||
V5 6C+ | Unfinished Monkey Business
A sit start about 1m right of SPUNKY MONKEY, start on a undercling low down on the right and on the higher starting grip for SPUNKY MONKEY. Climb straight up and top out. FA: James Roberts, 2002 | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne Closed The Lion's enclosure Bolted Boulder | |||||
V5 | Hydraulic
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V4 6C | Fusion
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V7 7A+ | Curious Nurse
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V6 7A | Energy
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South Africa Free State Swinburne Closed The Lion's enclosure Reservoir Boulder (Animal House Boulder) | |||||
Open Project 1
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Open Project 2
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V6 7A | ★★ Dunce
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V8 7B | ★ Ebb
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V10 7C+ | ★ Open Project 3
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V9/10 7C | Open Project 4
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V4 6B+ | Hektik
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V3 6A | Grass Snake
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V4 | Moonface
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V5 | Come Down
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V2 6A | Mysterious
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V3 6B | ★ Lateral
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V4 | Vertical
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V9 7C | Mooning Miss V
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V7 7A+ | ★ Blue Funk
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V6 7A | ★ Die Krupps
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V3 6A+ | ★★ Low Tide
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V4 6C | ★ Reach
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V3 6A+ | Grater
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South Africa Free State Swinburne Closed The Lion's enclosure Boulder I | |||||
V3 6A+ | No Name 1
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V4 6B+ | No Name 2
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V4 6C | No Name 3
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South Africa Free State Swinburne Closed The Lion's enclosure Boulder D | |||||
Open Project 1
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V2 - 4 | Open Project 2
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V3 - 5 | Open Project 3
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South Africa Free State Swinburne Closed The Lion's enclosure Impressionist Boulder | |||||
V6 7A | Monet
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South Africa Free State Swinburne Closed The Lion's enclosure Conscious Boulder | |||||
V3 6B | ★ Bush Bash
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Open Project 1
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V4 6C | ★★★ Awareness
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V8 7B | Ubconscious
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V9 | Open Project 2
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V4 6C | ★ Conscious
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V3 6A | Face It
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V4 6C | Facile
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V3 6A+ | Scrunch
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South Africa Free State Swinburne The Lower Road Boulders Kite Boulder | |||||
7A+ | ★★★ No Strings Attached
FA: Sean Cremen | ||||
6C+ | ★★ Aukams Razor
FA: Eric Riemann | ||||
6C | ★★ Fruit Cocktail
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6B | ★★★ Mango Grunt
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South Africa Free State Swinburne The Lower Road Boulders Roadside Boulder | |||||
V3 6B | SAKKIE SAKKIE
Sit start just right of a bush in a hollow. Start with left on a sidepull and right on a sloping sidepull. Up to a big jug on the lip and mantle to top out. FA: Daniel Vecchiato, 2002 | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne The Lower Road Boulders Spearmint Boulder | |||||
V4 | Disk
Start just to the left of a small tree. Start on plate and climb up right. | ||||
V3 6B+ | IMPERIAL
Starts sitting on a big sloping ledge. Move up right to a good grip and top out. | ||||
V8 7B | CHASING THE DRAGON
Start standing with left on a good edge and right on a small crimp, dyno up to edge slightly to the right and top out tending left. Can rip your right hand tape the joints to be safe. FA: Sean Cremen, 2002 | ||||
V9 7B+ | BLACK MIRAGE
Start in the obvious seam, top out with a good spotter. A classic! A crimp at the start has broken but it seems the grade remains unchanged. FA: Daniel Vecchiato, 2002 | ||||
V3 | Endear
Starts just right of tree, reach up left to the prow. | ||||
PERPETUITRY
Climb the crack and dodge the bush, careful of the loose block. FA: Yiding Jiang | |||||
V5 | Contreau
Start standing on a rock, diagonal edge for your right and climb to top tending right. | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne Spearhead Boulders Bleat Boulder | |||||
V6 7A | Bleat
Start with left in a pocket and right on an edge, move up to an edge and top out. FA: Shaun Harris | ||||
V5 6C+ | BLAAAAH
No Details, about 1-2m right of BLEAT. | ||||
V6 7A | SLAPPER
Sit start 2m left of BLEAT, with one foot each side of a small cave and whatever you can find for your hands in and around the recess. Move up left, and top out past a huge bucket. FA: Dave Drummond, 2003 | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne Spearhead Boulders Yellow Belly Boulder | |||||
V4 6C | ★★★ Red Belly
Sit start, left hand on low crimp in scoop and right higher on sloping crimp use for left hand on Piss. Move up to slopers and leftish to top out. FA: Eric Riemann, 2002 | ||||
V4 6C | ★★ Yellow Belly
Standing Start, left & right hands on a large layback, top out via a huge pig's nose, slightly to left. FA: Sean Cremen | ||||
V5 6C+ | ★★★ Piss
Sit start to the left of Yellow Belly on a crimp with left and crumbly undercling for the right, move right up to another crimp and then climb into Yellow Belly. | ||||
V9 7C | Open Project
Up the middle of the face on small sidepull & crimps just right of Yellow Belly. | ||||
V3 6A+ | !#$% the Monkey
Stand start, climbs the arete to the top, possibly easier. | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne Spearhead Boulders Art Boulder | |||||
V4 6C | ★★ Art
Start on edge for left and layback for right low down on middle of face, up left to edge and right to slopers, top out. Big protruding rock on left is off route. FA: Shaun Harris | ||||
V4 6C | ★★★ Rabobie
Start as for ART, exit right, horn on the right is off limits. FA: Eric Riemann | ||||
V2 - 5 | ★★ Nouveau
Sit down start up on arete to top out. | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne Spearhead Boulders Boulder D | |||||
V1 - 4 | Grass Roots
Stand start on a platform with an undercling, top out and don't fall! FA: Dave Drummond | ||||
V1 - 4 | No Name
Straight up the middle of the scooped wall, top out. | ||||
V3 6B | ★ Apache
Stand start, move left hand to undercling and right hand on arete, top out up arete. | ||||
V3 6B+ | ★ Scalped
Start as for Apache, traverse to Navaho. | ||||
V4 6C | ★ Open Your Mind
Straight up the middle of the face, starts in a bowl. | ||||
V3 6B+ | No Name 2
Starts 1m left of Yellowstone. | ||||
V3 6B | ★ Yellowstone
Sit start with left and right both on laybacks, move up to a finger slot just left of the arete & top out. | ||||
V3 6B | Navaho
Sit start in middle of small face, undercling for left & big sloping edge for right, climb up to top. | ||||
V2 - 5 | No Name 3
Sit start and climb up arete. | ||||
V3 6B | Jumping Elephants
Stand start with left hand on low good edge above middle of small cave, move up to pinch with right and top out state up scoop. FA: Dave Drummond, 2003 | ||||
V2 - 5 | Left-handed Polar Bear
Sit down start with hands on hold low down on the corner. Move slightly diagonally left and top out up the arete. FA: Dave Drummond, 2003 | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne Spearhead Boulders The Snail | |||||
V5 | Snail Trail
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South Africa Free State Swinburne Spearhead Boulders Indian Rock | |||||
V5 | Murry Cuncher
Boulder problem up the arete (right of the bolts). FA: Andrew Porter, 2002 | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne Spearhead Boulders Footprint Boulder | |||||
V3 6A+ | Slippery When Dry
Start standing at the painted foot and traverse on edges to the right staying at the same level. About 3m from the start move up to top out. FA: Martin Renz, 2000 | ||||
V4 6C | Footprint
Start as with Slippery When Dry but dont move up, traverse to the righthand arete and finish as for Footsy. FA: Martin Renz, 2000 | ||||
V3 6B+ | Footsy
On right sit start with a diagonal crack at waist height up to a diagonal sidepull and up to the right. | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne Whale Rock Boulders Guppy Fish Boulder | |||||
V3 | Guppy Fish
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V4 | Beluga
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No Name
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South Africa Free State Swinburne Whale Rock Boulders South Pacific | |||||
V4 | Marianus
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V5 | Nazca
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South Africa Free State Swinburne The Mushrooms Boulders Magic Mushroom | |||||
V4 6C | No Name
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Open Project
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V3 | Assorted
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South Africa Free State Swinburne The Long Tonk Boulders Boulder A | |||||
V5 6C+ | ★★ POLISH SUNRAY
Starts sitting with left on a low grip and right on a textured and sloping sidepull. Climb up and top out. FA: Daniel Vecchiato, 2002 | ||||
V5 6C+ | ★★ ITALIAN FREAK EXPO
Starts just right of POLISH SUNRAY. Sit start on crimps, traverse right for about 1.5m and then climb straight up the crack and top out. FA: Daniel Vecchiato, 2002 | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne The Long Tonk Boulders Spatchcock Boulder | |||||
V5 | Pox
Starts just right of the arête, starts on big jug, up left to a small pocket. | ||||
V3 6B+ | Bushed
Stand start on good edges at head height, up right to a pocket and left up to another pocket. | ||||
V8 7B | ★★ Spatchcock
Start standing in a scoop with your right in an undercling pocket at head height and your left in a small gaston lower down. Move up to a pocket and finish on jug above the pockets. FA: Shaun Harris, 2002 | ||||
V4 6C | ★ Pocket Launcher
Starts with right in a pocket, make a long move to a higher pocket and finish on good grips. FA: Ralph Brucher | ||||
South Africa Free State Swinburne The Long Tonk Boulders Long Tonk Boulder | |||||
V9 7B+ | WEGNEEM
Low start on a sidepull for the right and shallow mono for the left up to heucos and crimps. Top out via some rather loose rock. Kilian repeated the problem thinking it was open (error in guide) and named it WEGNEEM, Damian had never given it a name. FA: Damian McHenry & Damian had never given it a name. | ||||
V8 7B | TEARS OF THE SUN
Sit start with undercling for left and right in a one finger pocket inside the heuco. Move up to an edge on the right, take pockets and heucos to the bush. The big heuco on the right may need to be off-route. | ||||
V4 6C | ★★ Dyno Problem
Stand start with left in the undercling heuco and right in edge in heuco. Up and slightly to the left, dyno up to a pocket. A good mat and spotter for this one are essential! | ||||
V9 7C | ★ What Wanda Wanted
FA: Kilian Fischauber, 2002 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Texas Style
Start standing. Use the big heuco, up to the pockets and finish on pockets to the right. | ||||
V3 6B+ | ★★ Gone South
Start standing using big heuco, up left to a shallow heuco and up left to pockets. There is another variation of about the same grade where you head up right to a deep heuco and traverse right. | ||||
V3 6B | ★★ Angora
Start matched in pockets at waist level and climb up right to a gaston in a heuco, up rightish to a pocket and big jug. You can go higher with big mats. |