Routes as trad in Africa

The climb starts from the corner at the highest point of the dirt slope on the East Face of Gino. The climb goes up a narrow face to a bushy ledge at about 15 meters. From the ledge, chimney climb up a grove to a pinnacle facing south toward Satima Peak. Repel from a sling around the pinnacle. Sling and repel ring in place.

Starts on the face 3 meters to the right of the Outside Corner in the center of the photo above and ascends directly to a grassy ledge. Move directly up the slab behind on small holds (crux) to the south end of the summit ridge.

About 15 meters from the start of the Outside Corner is a steep narrow face with large holds between two dark grooves. Ascend the face protecting with slings. The face narrows to a pinnacle in about 20 meters, pass to the left avoiding bushes and scramble to a belay seat and rock pinnacle belay. From the belay point ascend slightly left up a scoop with limited protection (crux). Climb direct from scoop to summit about 20 meters from belay. Repel from sling on summit pinnacle using the same route as the ascent.

A alternate first pitch (VD) start from the corner 3 meters to left of the original direct route joins at the to first belay (Paul Drawbridge 5-7-14).

A low quality warmup when it's raining and you want to scramble rather than hike Satima.

Go 7ish meters up thin projecting bit of red rock slinging horns to grassy area. Continue up grassy area, then get back on rock a little to the left and continue up to base of pinnacle. Belay here.

Short with a couple fun moves.

Start at bottom of South side of reddish rock at base of small grassy slope. Traverse up and left towards good holds on steepest part of face. Get a marginal cam in and sling a few horns, then straight up steepest jugs onto slabby finish to pinnacle of rock. Sling but no rap ring in place on pinnacle.

A much bolder second pitch up larger rock across gap looks possible, although gear and rock quality potentially marginal.

A great route with 20 meters of steep juggy climbing, and a 10+ meter runout on slab to finish.

Start to right of black water streak on good holds. Make a few moves up to sling horns, then traverse left over water streak where possible. Straight up face until rock gets too mossy, then traverse left around arete. Make sure your last piece is bomber and your belay is tight, because there's no pro until the top, then pull up onto slab. Continue up on slabby face to the right of grassy gully as you run it out to the top. Anchor can be built on a large shallow horn and a mossy crack.

Steep scramble off to the right to descend.

Approach: From Amphitheatre Camp Site in front of the East face of Ngumu Rock, walk uphill toward the base of Ngumu Rock, then walk right up a steep hill, behind a large boulder scrambling around some small boulders at the top of the slope. Bear left heading into Ngumu Rock as though entering the large cleft filled by a huge chock stone boulder at the summit. You should see a large pedestal block on the right. There is a small grassy ledge at the base of Ngumu near two trees, just to the right of the block pedestal. Begin P1 here.

1. (poor pro). Easy start at grassy ledge. Head up a slick rock corner to a good ledge for hands. Traverse ledge to the right about 5 feet until you reach another small sloping ledge just past a bush. head up toward the right after the bush and place anchor on knobby wall.

2. (good pro). Start up knobby wall. About 10 feet up, knobby wall ends at a small rounded pocket/pod. Step into pocket (crux). Above the pod, there is an obvious vertical book with many knobs. Climb the book. Some stemming required; avoid pulling directly on knobs.

Descent: Rappel from large block at summit 50m (double rope required) direct to base. Beware of knobs and branches when pulling rope. Walk down to the North

Get in touch with MCK for the description.

The original route up the steep walls defending Poi is also the easiest route on the North, East or South Side. The rock is generally good but apart from the first few pitches the protection is sparse though adequate belays may be found.

From the Arboretum Ledge onwards retreat could be problematical as the route then is located above a huge concave and overhanging rock face. On the first ascent the lower band of overhangs was breached with the help of some aid. This has subsequently been climbed free by Pat Littlejohn.

See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46LziL1uDDo

7c crux, 7a obligatory

See here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200029800/Africa-Kenya-Ndoto-Mountains-Poi-East-Face-True-At-First-Light Downgrade proposed by Slovenian team that made the second ascent in 2003, to 7C: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP03/climbing-note-jeran

See description here: https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2001_files/AJ%202001%2024-30%20Barry%20Kenya.pdf

Named after Dr. Sanseau because her name literally means "No Water" and as we now know well, if you don't bring enough water on this route, someone will get heat stroke and you will have A Bad Time.

It gets 1 start because of the 3rd pitch which has a very fun chimney to climb. The rest is horrifically chossy and fun only for the most masochistic.

The climbing gets better as you go higher but it never gets that good.

1. VS 60 meters

2. VS 50 meters

3. HVS 60 meters

4. HS 20 meter scramble/climb

Climb to overhanging roof of cave and over this by a good crack; then a steep wall to top.

Climb rotten chimney, traverse L below overhangs, go up zigzag crack and hence to top.

Climb a recess to a shallow chimney; go up this to top.

Climb a recess to a shallow chimney; go up this to top.

Start at a recessed ledge. Gain slab on L. Move R and climb very steep crack, moving L at the top (crux) to an easy finish.

Access to routes 4a,b and c is from boulders at water level just R of overhanging walls. From L end of boulders climb a rib, traverse 10m. L under bulging walls (good protection) then climb a crack to the top.

Climb cracks rightwards to a big bouldery ledge below roofs. Climb over these left then right to easier ground.

An easy descent ramp.

Reached from a boat. Climb the easy crack which develops into a chimney. Go up this to ledge and tree. The next pitch climbs through overhangs immediately right and above ledge, traversing right below final overhang to finish.

Routes 6 and 7 start from a great rock pinnacle. Climb a thin groove, traverse left and climb the great left-facing and overhanging corner to top. A more difficult approach is directly from the bottom (VI-).

Routes 6 and 7 start from a great rock pinnacle. Take a groove in slab above the pinnacle; above 2 small bushes make a thin traverse right to gain the easier left-facing comer. An easier start involves climbing right to a roof with a crack under it. Traverse left below this to base of corner (IV+).

Routes 8 and 9 start from an easy slab found some 8m. above the water level and between the 2 great pinnacles, from either of which the slab can be reached. Climb to 2 facing corners. Gain base of left one with difficulty and finish up right corner and a slab wall to the right of it.

Routes 8 and 9 start from an easy slab found some 8m. above the water level and between the 2 great pinnacles, from either of which the slab can be reached. From the easy slabs move diagonally rightwards to gain a very steep corner with loose blocks at its base (almost directly above a chimney leading up to the right pinnacle ledge). Climb directly in the comer, trending right to top.

A broken crack system directly behind the pinnacle to big tree belays.

Routes 11,12,13 and 14 start right of the big pinnacle. It is possible to traverse right to these from the pinnacle area, though the traverse is harder than any move on the climbs. Climb a right-trending chimney to steepening and hence a tree belay. Now easy rocks to the top.

Routes 11,12,13 and 14 start right of the big pinnacle. It is possible to traverse right to these from the pinnacle area, though the traverse is harder than any move on the climbs. The tree may be reached direct by a steep crack.

Routes 11,12,13 and 14 start right of the big pinnacle. It is possible to traverse right to these from the pinnacle area, though the traverse is harder than any move on the climbs. A difficult traverse right from the base of no. 12 leads to a small slab and possible belay. It is easier to reach this by boat. Climb a crack left-wards then direct to big ledges. Easy rock to the top.

From the slab of no. 13, climb right-wards then straight up a crack to easy ground and the top.

At the far right end of the crag, an obvious and deep left-facing chimney.

From ‘Touching My Void’, this route follows the easiest-looking line up the face straight opposite, over the valley, following the right-facing corner.

1. 4c (40m). Start up small wall under corner, and traverse left under a steepening block into a gully. This turns into a corner, which is followed to a belay on top of a rock pillar.

2. 4c (40m). Continue up the corner via hard moves through a wide crack (crux) and exit via easier scrambling to top. Two tree abseils return you to the base of the crag

A route yielding unusual experiences.

1. 30 m. Start up the roots in the left-hand chimney and past the tree. At about 21 m the chimneying becomes severe for some moves. A good pitch ending either at 34 m at a chockstone and stance, or at 40 m in the Bird of Doom Cave (high peg in place).

2. 18 m. (or 12 m from the cave). The Root Pitch (first crux). A long thin root, occasionally attached to the rock, leads up from the cave to a tree. Traverse out of the cave and either enter the outward—sloping chimney with difficulty using the root a little for the left foot and continuing with some effort (at least V.S.) or climb the root of the tree (V.S. in character, unnerving). Belay to the tree.

3. 15 m. The corner and nose give pleasant climbing to a platform.

4. 24 m. Past large blocks to a corner. An overhang at 12 m gives a technical move. Belay in trees.

5. 9 m. Climb a tree and break through vicious palm fronds to a major recess.

6. 37 m. The Traverse of the Crows, From right inside the cave traverse outwards chimneying until the walls widen, Belly crawl under a low roof and then continue easily in excellent position to a grassy haven and a huge belay. An enjoyable pitch.

7. 9 m. Climb the rock and vegetation. Awkward. A peg was used for direct aid on the first ascent. Anchor to low horizontal trunk.

8. 24 m. (Second crux, V.S.). Start in the crack and traverse onto the slab. Where this steepens at about 11 m move delicately right to enter the twin cracks which give an energetic and fitting finish into thickening bush.

Approach: From the north side, walk up the path to the school on the ridge west of Goi. Then turn back along the ridge path towards Goi, with a deviation to the left to avoid a precipice. Reach a gap between the ridge and Goi Rock.

1. 61 m. Traverse round vegetation leftwards to the bottom of a steep chimney in a corner.

2. 27 m. Climb the chimney (some dirt) to a cave, then through this to easy climbing to the top.

The Great Chimney on the north side of Goi is entered from the right across a grass ledge and minute flakes - V.S.

Reach the scoop (bolt)* for belay. One more pitch, H.V.S. with one bolt*, reaches the chimney proper. Follow this for 244 m to the top (S. to V.S.).

Descend from bolt on the western end of the rock.

• The first party removed the screws and hangers from these two bolts. They are available for future ascents on application to Ian Howell (note from 2023 editor: Ian Howell is no longer with us but the MCK would be happy to provide new bolts for future ascentionists).

Start at the viewpoint where a boulder pillar allows access to slab on main wall.

1. 45m 4c. Climb pillar step onto slab and traverse boldly L 4m till good holds lead to easier grassy slabs. Up these, good runner, then move R and up to more grassy slabs and a small tree belay below the final headwall.

2. 10m. Traverse R over white slab to gain ledges, belay on R by tree.

3. 15m 4c. Pull up R-wards, using small flakes, onto a small ledge. Runner. Move R till a step up R reaches easier grassy ground. Up this trending R to belay on thorny bush (or scramble 5m to top, various belays).

See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EjjKqxNZWA

1. 30m 4a. Climb the break to small trees and the comfortable ledge at the end of pitch

2. As for pitch 3 of The Thumb

Good climbing, rather bold initially! Start at the base of the cliff, just to the R of a point where to the L walls become darker and blank.

1. 50m 5a. Climb steeply up to a slight out-jutting horn at 6m, runner. Move R to a loose flake now continue up finding easiest line. Work L to the base of an easy scoop, take a good belay some 4m up by a deep hole.

2. 40m 4c. Move diagonally up and R till a hidden R-facing crackline provides welcome runners. Move up the crack then step R and gain easier ground. Follow this under vertical wall to tree belay on the N ridge of the Thumb. An easy scramble leads pleasantly to a fine viewpoint on the ridge below the final tower. From here a good path leads down - or continue up The Thumb.

(description via Andrew Wielochowski)

See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvOzAB8j5Eg

Climb the face of the Thumb to a tree and up.

1. 45m 4b. Up the initial slab, then followed the shiny ramp line trending L to R then out R and back up L to tree. Bold.

2. 40m. 4a. Straight up to the top.

This climbs takes the easiest line some 20m L of the overhanging bulge/line wall near the R end of the cliffs. 50m rope essential.

Wander up finding the easiest line. A steady leader is useful as protection is sparse. Belay on trees at the top. Abseil or walk off.

The climb starts about centre of the crag on the bottom L point of a giant X.

1. 36m 4a. There is an obvious shallow line which rises to the R, pass some rather hollow sounding rock and protection, above there is a rounded bulge to the R. Go over it and move up to the tree belay.

2. 45m 5a. Go straight up, not the easy staircase to the R. Great gear placements and nice warm up moves for about 5m. Then you start to get funnelled as the face becomes steep and gets sparse on holds, your forced R, across a small face into a groove, protection. Fine 5a climbing follows. Get above this and whilst in a tight chimney get some protection in before pushing out onto the L face, you naturally go up a crack, the crack becomes a groove, the groove becomes a gully, then you top out onto a wonderful shelf to amazing views of the Cat & mouse and Olokwe to the N.

An easy line to the right of the 1st pitch of Natorbe Chimney gives easy pleasant climbing to the big ledge

The right hand skyline of the crag is roughly followed and can be broken up into two pitches at a convenient tree.

The route is on the South Face of Bodich, also known as Lebendera, on the North bank of the Ewaso Ngir’o river, about 10km East of Archer’s Post. The mountain and cliffs can be seen from the main road. Note: the mountain is in a KDF training area, but this does not seem to be an issue.

To get to Bodich, cross the river bridge heading North into Archer’s Post, then as soon as possible drop off the road to the right and double back on yourself. At a shack marked ‘garage’ turn left, then first right, then left again to pick up a track which generally follows the line of telegraph poles heading East. This eventually leads to a ford [often dry] across a tributary of the main river. Once across the ford, head right [South] on a decent track towards the main river. before reaching it, another track branches off to the left. Follow this, which gradually fades away as you get closer to the mountain. But persevere, as it does exist, and follow it to directly below the crags, which are some 800m away and uphill. Good campsites along the river.

To get to the crag, head straight uphill through bush and rocks. The crag can be climbed on at any time of year. The rock is basement gneiss [I think…], the same as at Lukenia and Tsavo, and is generally sound and clean, although the first two pitches suffer from some bat pooh dribbles…… The route is reasonably protected throughout.

Start at the base of an obvious steep, kinked crack and chimney line in the vertical buttress left of the large slabby walls, and right of a broken ridge.

1. 40m 4c/5a Follow the crack all the way to a semi-hanging belay where the crack and chimney merge and tilt to the right. Many bats in the chimney to the right.

2. 45m 5a Up the crack under the roof, and then traverse out right to a vertical crack. This proves to be the back of a huge free-standing flake. Climb the crack [full of bats] and then the flake. Move up and right at the top to a wide shallow groove, climb this, and then back left to belay at blocks on a big ledge.

3. 50m. Scramble up the ridge to a cleft below a clean rib on the left.

4. 40m 4c The rib direct, to a belay below a stepped buttress above.

5. 35m 4a the stepped buttress and then the easier angled continuation ridge behind [easy] to a great belay on an acacia tree on a very pleasant leafy and shady ledge.

6. 50m 4c Climb the wall on the right, then make an airy step across a deep cleft [the top of a huge chimney] on to the wall behind. Climb this, moving up diagonally left higher up, and then up to belay below the next buttress, which has a gully/chimney on the right.

7. 50m 4c Climb the dark nose on the left edge of the gully/chimney, then up to a steep crack before moving up right past a tree and then back left. Scramble through gap between large boulders to belay at the back end of a big flat sandy ledge [excellent bivvy site!].

8. 50m Scramble up across boulders, including an obvious leftwards slanting ledge on the front of a big block, to belay on trees below a cave.

9. 40m 5a Climb the short wall and fig tree root to the left of the cave, and then up the steep wall behind [fingery and exposed], trending left to belay at the top.

Descent by abseil, mostly down the line of the route. Final abseil [down the line of the first two pitches] is a full 60m with a stretch, and is mostly free hanging.

The Lebendera Rulebook: We broke almost all of these.

1. There is a vague vehicle track along the North ban of the river. Trust me.

2. Go straight up to the crag from the river. Don’t try traversing in from the side. [ow, ow, ow, ow, prickly! Is it that time already?] 3. It takes a long time to go up and down. Take your head-torch, and batteries for your GPS so that you can find your way back in the dark, rather than scrabbling through acacia bushes and swearing a lot.

3. Bats have right of way, are very noisy, and pooh a lot. 5 Take plenty of water.

4. Don’t go climbing on Natorbe the next day.

5. There are tons of new routes to do, although some might need bolts [aaaagh!].

(The name is a reference to the poem the jabber walkie. It involved a long walk through horrible forest with with weapon in tow). We had one foe in mind and then it turn out to be a brilliant adventure. we returned after dark):

Despite several past attempts, no successful ascent had been made of Bodich. A long and prickly approach to the base of a broken corner crack at the right side of vulture-dropping covered wall. Wear long sleeves and trousers made of thick thorn resistant cloth. Take plenty of water, several pangas, and start early.

1. Start is right of the prominent vegetated gully. Start climb behind huge menhir shaped boulder (scrambbling). Once up behind the boulder climb corner to where a sloping ledge breaks to the lest, ignore this ledge and continue up steepening corner past an old peg (left from a failed attempt in 1970s by Phil Snyder) to a hanging belay consisting of two bolts. Grade: 18 well protected. Large cams are useful.

2. Climb the bulging wall above via crack (bats inside) and then the left side of the pillar to arrive onto slab like wall above. Continue trending right to gain a smooth ledge with two belay bolts. Grade 19 run out/some poor protection. medium cams and small nuts

3. Go straight up from the belay to make a commiting move past the overlap and climb the slabby wall. You will find lots of shaped holds and nut placements. Stay right of main corner and head for the small tree. Tree belay. Grade: 15 well protected. Above this tree a steep gully leads to the top.

100m. of slabs lead to the fault proper. Halfway up slabs, note a long roof with large tree at its R-hand end. 2 pitches reach the tree, the last moves being the crux. Above tree gain the upper slab and make a long L- trending traverse, bolt runner near end. Walk up through trees till the fault can be entered on R. Traverse L below an overhang (bolt just Rof crack). Fine chimney climbing follows. The final section to the summit is forested. On the 1st ascent skulls were found in a cave on the summit.

Start slightly to the right of bottom of obvious crack. Fun moves up to crack, then continue up crack to slab finish. Belay and abseil off tree.

Not the longest route, but high quality.

An easy, short climb East side of Tisia Rock. You start right side of a Baobab; climb up on to a ledge, there is a small over hang. Then scramble to the top under a tree.

A short climb up to a crack, which you go straight up, a short scramble up to two big rocks which you then climb in between to the top.

A classic for the area. Start on the SW of Dwa Rock in between a cave. Must climb in two stages, 1st up onto a big ledge. Then traverse to the left up to a big crack which you follow up to the top. Take caution of bees!

This is on the West side of Dwa rock, to the left of Dwa Rock 1. This is a straight climb up, little protection available. Classic for the area to date.

Easy warm up climb North of Havens 1 & 2, best access in the dry due to bushes. Quite a lot of bees present. A small crack all the way up to the top. One must either Free Climb or access a top rope from the East Side.

A small rock face on its own as you enter Dwa Estate - a few possible climbs. Difficult to reach during the rainy season due to grass & bush.

Short crack climb up to Miner's Boulder

Lammergeier takes a weakness to the left up to an orchard, and then follows a rising traverse right to cross the upper section of the chimney on the right.

Mild—Severe in seriousness because of the exposed run—out of pitch 5, but technically only Very Difficult. The easiest route on the face. (1958 grading).

Start at a tree at the base of the prominent crack which divides Lichen Slabs from Vulture Face.

1. 12 m. Up the wall and slab on the left of the crack to a large block belay.

2. 11 m. Up the crack and left wall.

3. 9 m. Continue straight up for 5 m and then break out right to a sitting belay.

4. 23 m. Climb upwards and to the right. Various belays are possible. It is an advantage to go as far right as you can, to simplify belaying at the end of the next pitch.

5. 34 m. Rising traverse to the right taking the line of least resistance. If one of the obvious belays cannot reached because of shortage of rope there is a small knob that can be used on the face.

6. 6 m. Straight up to a flake belay at the base of a wall.

7. 27 m. Straight up to finish on a prominent nose of rock.

(N.B. Opinions about belays and lengths of pitches differ for pitches 4, 5 and 6).

A route of continuous interest which takes a direct line and gives many fine positions. Grading Severe, both technically and in character, but the difficulties can be well protected.

Start 11 m to the left of a tree with many trunks growing close to the rock.

1. 11 m. Easily up to a ledge.

2. 21 m. Up to the left to an exposed belay (or runner if pitches 2 and 3 are climbed as one).

3. 9 m. Climb the wall above and to the right and follow the slanting ledge to the Big Block. (At this point Lion crosses Gorilla).

4. 9 m. An ascending traverse left leads to a belay in the corner beside a bush.

5. 37 m. (of climbing). The rib to the left of the corner is climbed on holds ending with a move into the groove at 6 m. A rectangular excursion follows. Traverse right for 6 m on good handholds, climb the wall above, and then traverse back to the left before ascending a further 9 m to a large ledge.

6. 9 m. Easily up to a large ledge.

7. 21 m. The wall above is climbed bearing right and gives a magnificent move at 12 m up to a ledge. The final wall above the ledge can be surmounted after traversing either right or left.

A route of notorious character which deserved frequent ascents.

Grading Severe. This grading is given reluctantly and applies only to the final pitch on which the frustrations are in the first few feet and anything but exposed.

Start at the tree with many trunks which is close to the crag at the right hand end of its base.

1. 27 m. Climb diagonally up left to the Big Block the end of pitch 3 on Lion).

2. 14 m. Traverse along the obvious crack and round the corner on to Gorilla Ledge. 37 m of rope may be needed to reach a rock belay by walking along the ledge. A walk then leads to the base of the chimney.

3. 9 m. Up the chimney to a stance.

4. 11 m. Continue to the tree and cave.

5. 15 m. The bottleneck inside the cave provides a strange problem. The climber who has overcome the problem finds himself lying on the chockstone. The climb finishes in good position on the outside of the fissure where jugs appear for the final pull up.

A route with one hardish exposed move. The description is only tentative.

Start as for Cheetah.

1. 21 m. As for Cheetah.

2. 24 m? From the Fig Tree climb up and to the left. This pitch contains the crux, a spidery move out of a niche.

3. 30 m. Ascend up and right, crossing the line of Cheetah, to exit right of the final overhangs.

The third pitch is the most elegant at Naibor Enkeju withfine continuity and situation. Being long and on the thin side it gives the climb its name. The holds are all there.

Grading Hard Severe. The "hard" is only added because of the need for sustained climbing on the third pitch.

Start: Scramble up to a small tree 9 m to the right of the start of Gorilla, at the righthand end of a complex of flakes and cracks.

1. 21 m. Up the crack above and then angle left to the Fig Tree.

2. 9 m. Ascend to the right to a belay.

3. 35 m. (but can be broken at 18 m). The steep groove and lefthand wall give superb positions on excellent small1 jugs. At 18 m, Where the angle eases, work left up to a platform, from which a slanting ledge is followed to a belay.

4. 18 m. Continue diagonally left until the overhang gives an exhilarating finish on good holds.

The climb takes its name from a prominent patch of aloes just below the main terrace which bissects the crag, just to the right of Stance 4 in Plate 4. It can also be seen as a dark patch in Plate 3, just to the right of the point where the terrace begins to fall away to the left. The route looks a little intimidating from below, but is not as hard as it looks. Plate 3 gives the best impression of the general angle. The climb was led direct on 26th September, 1948, without previous reconnaissance, by J. W. Howard, with J. W. Balfour and M. W. E. North as his party. Owing to the lack of belays the pitches are long, and it is advisable to have 30 m of rope for each man. The length of each pitch was estimated (not measured) and the total length would appear to be about 134 m, the vertical interval being 91 m.

1. 24 m. The start (marked by a cairn) somewhat below the right end of a vertical wall. The pitch is up easy rocks diagonally to the right, avoiding the wall.

2. 24 m. Traverse left for a short way, over the top of the wall, then proceed up rough, steep slabs to a minute belay and stance, I found the last 3 m tricky. This is a delightful pitch with small holds on first-class rock, spectacular and exposed.

3. 27 m. Straight up, leaving a large semi-detached boulder on the right and the aloe patch on the left, to the main terrace.

4. 12 m. Above the terrace is a short steep wall which is perhaps the hardest bit of the climb. It was ascended by moving a few yards to the left along the terrace, taking a short slant to the left, then traversing right on small holds to the point where the gradient eases. This brings one out on the top of the wall, after which the route leads diagonally up to the left to a good stance and belay.

5. 24 m. Straight up a steep face on excellent holds to where the grass begins.

6. 21 m. Here we traversed to the right up grass on slabs round the final butress, but this might, perhaps, be taken direct.

Pitch 4 was Balfour's Waterloo. He couldn't manage the traverse to the right on the small holds, mainly, I think, because his reach is shorter than Howard's or mine, and after several minutes' struggle he made a jump for a hand-hold, missed it and came unstuck. He was held from above of course, though from a little to one side. As his weight came on the roper I was astonished how it stretched. The neatest parallel that occurs to me is that of a yo-yo, the effect being heightened by Balfour's expression of yo-yo-like (or do I mean Yogi-like ?) impassivity as he catapulted down.

1. 37 m. Climb straight up towards a mall tree on a ledge until a diagonal line of quartz leads left to a grass ledge with several small belays.

2. 52 m (of climbing). Straight up to a steepening which has good small jugs. Follow the ramp above to the left, climb the wall above and traverse back right to bush belays which can first be marked with the 46 m of rope.

Place protection starting from the beginning of the crack and join Flake on the right.

Can be lowered off the Flake anchor

Follows an obvious connection of cracks at the corner of the last section to the right. The climb goes up the stack of boulders and ends at a belay on a tree on top.

Descent by walking off from the top of the hill.

Caution: Being an old quarry, some sections may not be as solid as they appear to take protection. Place protection with care. And also BEWARE of Bees in the cave up there. This is an early morning climb before the sun agitates the bees.

L1 Sport 6a+, L2 Trad (+old pitons) 6b, L3 Sport 6a For the topout it is advisable to bring an 8mm Petzl Coeur remouvable bolt, because people keep stealing the top-out bolt. There is an 8mm hole to place the Petzl Coeur for belaying the top-out. More info about the route to follow

History: This climb was reportedly used as a training exercise by the Rwanda military in the pre-genocide period, and old cables and pitons are much in evidence. The line described above was climbed on May 23, 2004 by Doug Teschner, Erin Shutes, and Sive Bresnihan. This was apparently the first ascent in many years and attracted a large crowd of up to 1000 local observers.

This sweet climb is one of the best in Rwanda! It generally follows the obvious, right-of-center crack (mostly off-width) which runs the full height of the cliff. Good rock (with many climber friendly nubbins), sustained climbing, and exciting run outs make for a great outing. A classic trad route with route finding challenges, lichen, etc. Don’t miss it!

1. Overcome vegetation to reach the crack proper. Climb the crack and face to its right, past three pitons (getting past the third is the route’s 5.6+ crux) followed by a thought-provoking 5.5 run out (80 foot ground fall potential) up the face to the right of the crack. Finally protection! Belay at a small grassy stance with two pitons for the anchor. 100 feet.

2. Nice, but easy climbing to the left of the crack, then unpleasant bushwhacking to a nice stance with bolts and a cable. 50 feet , 5.4

3. Up face above, eventually crossing the crack back to the left, then later back right to a semi-hanging belay with three pitons. 90 feet, 5.6

4. Surmount the bulge above, then follow the off width crack up a thin face to a cable around a chockstone and (higher) a cable and bolts hidden inside the wide crack. 60 feet 5.5R

5. Up the crack and face to the right with some exciting unprotected friction moves to a hidden piton on the left. Continue past another pin, then traverse left across orange lichen to a short inside corner leading to a grassy stance below a blocky outcrop. (Note: spectator children may boldly descend to this point from the top.) 110 feet, 5.6 R

6. Climb the corner and face above to the top. 50 feet, 5.5 R

Quickly viewing the cliff from the road (before you are surrounded by children), you will observe a high point of land with eucalyptus trees at the center of the cliff base. Nkuli Dancing starts 2/3 of the way (100 feet) down to the right from this apex, directly below an old bolt.

1. Up the nice slab past three old bolts to a pleasant stance with three bolts. 100 feet, 5.4 **

2. Climb the slab above (with one bolt to the left) toward a grassy ledge. Pass the grass at its right edge and traverse back left to an awkward hanging belay with 2 bolts. (Note: expect some kids to join you at this ledge by boldly traversing across the face from the right.) 60 feet, 5.4

3. This is the crux pitch if you follow the standard route without the variations described below. Exposed traverse left, crossing a large inside corner, then straight up a face passing one bolt before a run out. Eventually step right over a grassy ribbon to an awkward standing belay with two pins. 100 feet, 5.5 R

4. Up slabs to the top. 90 feet, 5.5 R

Alternatives to the first pitch (ending at the same belay stance as pitch one):

1a. Start a little lower to the right (facing the cliff) and join the regular route part way up. Nice climbing, but a bit run out. 100 feet, 5.5 R **

1b. Start closer to the apex and follow a rising traverse (with crack) right to join the regular route ¾ of the way up. 110 feet, 5.5

3a. Head right to a thin move past a pin/bolt, then continue right to a grassy ledge with little for an anchor. 100 feet, 5.7

4a. Continue right without protection to the top. 90 feet, 5.5 R

3b. Step slightly left then climb unprotected rock just right of the obvious inside corner. Unprotected moves right lead to a curved arch and a semi-hanging nut belay. 60 feet, 5.5 R

4b. Step left and up nice white rock to a dubious small friend placement, then sustained, thought provoking climbing without protection to the top. 60 feet, 5.7 X

Hard- A steep face to the right of Couloir. 5.9

The best route at Secret Valley.

Climb the couloir to a steep crescendo finish. 5.7 +.

The stepped buttress to the left of Couloir . 5.9

The gully/corner to the left of Escalator. 5.3

A nice, sustained face climb to the left of Easy Up. 5.7 Reportedly a frog was first observed climbing this route, hence the name.